Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626



  • Yes the timing belt was replaced so was the water pump,head gaket,and radiator flushed. But the problem persists and he says now something about some rings might be messed up. Also he says the check engine light is not coming on anymore.
  • illmaticillmatic Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1996 mazda 626 and it has some problems or it might have some problems.
    The check engine light always come on and I don't really know why. Maybe some of you guys can tell me what could be the cause or what kind of problems can i be looking for in my car.
    Also there is a sound that i here in the transmission box when i press the brakes.
  • rokoszrokosz Posts: 2
    Hi Folks,

    I backed up against a rock after sliding off the road and snapped the sway bar links.

    Looked simple enough to replace so I got the parts. Now I've spent the last 2 hours trying to remove the old sets. I got one upper off but the other three are frozen.

    the other upper i can turn with a visegrip -- but can't get the allen/vise combination to loosen.

    the lowers I can't seem to get steady enough leverage because the bar itself wants to move.
    I've had the bolts wd40'd for 2 hours now. I've tap, tap, tapped until my ears hurt and wire brushed the threads to clean them. Still no luck.

    Anybody have any suggestions? Is there a dremel attachement that'll cut nuts and bolts?

    thank you all
  • can anyone tell me if it is common procedure to have a cylinder head shaved when replacing a head gasket. This mechanic put on a new head gasket only and there is water in the first 3 cylinders and only like 16 pounds of pressure. I have a mazda 626 1995 2.0 engine
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It depends on if the head was warped from overheating of it the gasket surface was rough. In those cases, it's common to shave the cylinder head in order to get a smooth straight mating surface. If the gasket surface isn't straight and smooth, it will leak and cause problems. Sounds like your mechanic didn't take the time to properly check for this.
  • can any one tell me where i can find a second hand
    Mazda MX-6 1994 4 cyl. 2 plug MT Distributor #DTR58761
    and order online?
    i found a new one on web
    but it cost about $178.00
  • I just locked my keys in my 95 626. I was wondering if there was anyone who could give me a few hints about unlocking it myself. Please HELP!
  • I have 96 Mazda 626 4cyl. automatic tranny. I was wondering if you can put a throttle body and Idle air control valve from a 93-2001 probe into my car? I was told they are interchangable. would like to know before I buy the part. :confuse:
  • I love my Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl. I was wondering who would win from 0-60, a honda accord 4cyl, toyota camry 4cyl, or the mazda i would like to know for future references. :)

  • What model year are the cars (1990, 1995, 2002, etc) and are they manual or automatics?
  • 1999 and all auto tranny's
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The Accord would win by a long shot. The Camry was no speed demon with the old 2.2 liter but it would probably beat the 626 due to the meager torque output from its 2.0 liter.
  • ericb1ericb1 Posts: 2
    I am a new member with 144K miles on my 94 626. 4 cylinder/manual tranny has been a great vehicle since new in 94. However, a rough idle and constant tailpipe misfire has started. Already replaced the distributor (autozone), plugs, and wires recently. Running a bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner right now for the first time. Haven't checked compression, but it drives great except at idle. Any thoughts from the group on injector cleaning, idle air valve (?), etc. would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hi!

    :shades: Just picked up a 1993 626 ES (Chronos) with 160,000kms (100,000 miles) and want to ensure that it runs reliably for a long time. I've got a few questions for which I haven't been able to find answers using Google. The car is in great condition. The only faults I'm aware of are: cracked windshield, a few nickel sized dings, power antenna stick going down, questionable water pump, low rear pads.

    :confuse: Is it possible to get computer codes in this car without a code reader? Where is the OBD connector?

    :confuse: Is there anyplace to find instructions for some of the repairs on a 626 ES? The water pump is questionable on this car. If I'm going to the trouble of changing this, what else should I consider? I'm thinking that the timing belt is something to check. This car doesn't resemble a Ford Probe - Is the Haynes/Chilton book really common between these cars?

    :confuse: Can anyone suggest an automatic transmission cooler? Any preferred mounting location on this car?

    :sick: My power antenna grinds when coming down. Is there a "quick fix" or "lube" that I can do? It does not appear to be bent. I have disconnected the power to it to save wear on the gears. \

    ...any comments/suggestions/etc. are appreciated! :)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just replaced the coolant overflow bottle on my 99 ES V6. I had one of these botles start leaking at 40K miles (replaced under warraanty), and then again at 117 K miles. Easy to replace, but the thing sells for $ 90! I got it for $ 70 from my local Mazda dealer.

    At 120K I will replace spark plugs (got them from, plug wires, accessory drive belts, and rear sway bar bushings. Just installed a new set of Michelin MXV tires. The car still runs and looks great at 117k miles. No other problems so far. :)
  • my mazda 626 pulls great but idles rough specially when the aircon is on. give me an idea that causes to idle rough, also when to change the timing belt?
  • I have an intermittent problem that keeps getting worse, but of course everytime I take it to the shop the car runs great. When I am accelerating (even in neutral) the engine will cut out. This happens when I reach around 2500 RPMs. I will keep hitting on the gas, but the RPM needle will drop all the way down to 1500 RPM, and the car operates jerkily between 1500 RPM and 2500 RPM. Sometimes it will catch and the RPMs will spike up, but then it will bog down again. When the problem first started, it only happened with the engine cold, but now it will happen anytime. I've almost gotten stranded in intersections twice, and it looked like I was a driver who had never driven a stick before. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I have narrowed it down to many possible faults. Either the fuel pump is going bad, the computer is cutting fuel (the problem used to be corrected by turning off the car and turning it back on, but now that doesn't do it), one of several valves has gone bad, or a sensor is going bad. These intermittent problems are frustrating to fix. If anyone has had similar problems, or might know what is wrong, I would greatly appreciate any insight. I've already done the simple stuff, like changing the fuel filter, cleaning the fuel system, and replacing the spark plugs.

    Thanks, D
  • The lines running coolant through your ICS motor sitting atop the throttle quadrant might be clogged causing the rough idle. I had a similar problem years ago and I had to feather the gas at stops to keep the car from dying until I could get the lines cleaned out. I found the problem by getting it hooked up to a diagnostic test stand. If the car idles a little high, I have been told by Mazda that it is within spec for the car to idle as high as 1500 RPM with the engine cold, although it shouldn't be rough.

    I believe the book calls for the timing belt to be checked at 60,000 and changed at 90,000.

    Take care, D
  • I locked my keys in my 1995 Mazda626 twice and was able to get in through the passenger door using a wire coat hangar. If you want to try it, undo the hangar, then take the hooked end of the hanger and shove it between your window and door frame about 3-5 inches in front of where the door lock popup is. Then just fish around until you get it to catch and you will see the lock pop up. Before I had locked my keys in the first time I had taken apart the door, so I had a pretty good idea of where all the linkages were. Hope this helps.

    Take care, D
  • I hate to point out the obvious, but you asked. The check engine light usually comes on because there is something wrong with your car. If you take it to nearly any mechanic, they will be able to hook it up to a diagnostic test system, and it will give them the fault codes that will tell what is wrong with the car.
  • I just bought a 1998 626 LX. The owner's manual says a "special tool" is required to tighten the oil filter. I *never* pay someone else to change the oil/filter. Is this for real? (I have 2 sizes of the filter wrench that is a loop that gets smaller and tighter as you pull on the handle.)

    Also, how do I tell for sure how big the engine is? The manual documents 2 different refill capacitites based on engine size. Are there 2 sizes of 4-cylinder for 1998?


  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,653
    There is an optional V6 on these, so that might be why the 2 different capacities. The V6 was a 2.5 liter.

    The special tool is just the filter wrench, I'm sure.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    Has the car had a tune-up lately? If you just bought the car, depending on the mileage, there are a few things that you might need to get replaced. Drive Belts (AC/Powersteering)? Timing Belt? Have filters, lines and hoses been checked?

    And that sound you hear when you press the brakes is normal. I noticed it too when i first bought my car. I was reading a review of the car when it was new and that sound was mentioned as one of the Cons.

    Edit: You should only hear that sound when you are in Park and possibly neutral. You shouldn't hear it when you are actually braking to a stop.
  • masxmasx Posts: 2
    I bought the car in January. It was in terrific condition, one owner with only 60,000 km on it, (37,000 miles) after some detailing it is like new again. It is a Japanese built car as that's what we get in Canada.
    I have had no trouble at all so far. It pulled a little to the left but new tires solved it. Then the Check Engine light came on from me not tightening the gas cap, and I fixed it (with the help of this forum) by disconnecting the NEG battery terminal for a bit. The fit and finish is supurb. The handling is great and the power is just fine. (170 HP) Enough considering the light weight of the car. It has all the bells and whistles of more expensive cars and so far, (touch wood) it runs perfectly with good gas mileage. (averaging about 99 cents a litre here in Vancouver right now, which is, I think ... about 3.75 a gallon ouch!)
    I had an '89 323 until it sadly died and it was such a good car I felt obligated to buy another Mazda. Also, I am amazed by the Mazda paint job, it is comparable to any BMW. (I have owned 3 BMWs) I didn't get an owners' manual with the car and am curious to find out if it might have the built-in remote power locks, nothing came with it. But I THINK they came only on the ES model. Anyone know? Or if I can get the remotes for it?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    We also used Edmunds for research prior to our purchase of first new car. Our LX
    130 ponies bridled to a left-leg flexor came with remote door/trunk lock. One should be able to pick up a module (ebay,junk yard) and take to a Mazda dealer
    for programming. For the money spent we are thoughly satisfied with purchase. We have put 60K miles on it with just regular maintenence and last tank of fuel was 29mpg. Thanx Edmunds
  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    To the person asking about keyless entry: I looked it up on autotrader and oddly, I didn't see anything about keyless entry. You need to take the vehicle to a dealership to have it checked before you buy any remotes. They are worthless without the system installed on the car. And DO NOT take the remotes to the dealer for programming. Depending on your dealer, they can charge anywhere from $30 to $60 bucks to program them. They say they have to hook it up to a machine but that's a blatant lie. All it is is a series of opening your door and turning the key in the ignition a certain way. If you do get them, I can post programming instructions for you here.

    I bought a 96 626 with 80k miles on it and now its at 104k. Fantastic car. My 93 had 135k miles on it and ran strong until it's death at the grill of an 18 wheeler. My next car will definately be a Mazda, but due to the fact that the late model 626s look like [non-permissible content removed], it will be a millenia.

    I positively adore this car and wish I could have owned it since its 'birth'. After all these years, the interior still looks brand new. The paint has really held up and shines like you wouldn't believe.

    My 93 was a DX with no options. But my 96 came with everything and it has really spoiled me something awful. When I go checking out new cars, I cant help but compare to my Mazda and I'm always dissappointed. Power antennae, gorgeous alloy rims, Lincoln-quality horn, Map lights in sunroof/moonroof controls, Trunk release on the remote...all these things I now look for in a vehicle and in my price range, they are just not there.

    I love everything about the car except the 4 cylinder engine. Even the remote looks great compared to the ugly red and grey button ones they are making today.

    The most impressive tho is the sound system on this car. Sounded okay with the factory tape deck; but it's amazing what a Sony Cd Player did for the 6 speaker system. The Bass is incredible for factory and no vibration or distortion. What really takes these speakers to their full potential is a set of 15" subs added along with an amp. Of course they add deep bass and a large loudness factor, but they also make the factory speakers sound so much better. There is no need to change them out for aftermarket door speakers and the car came with 2 additional speakers in the dashboard that really take the loudness like pros. Mainstream kid music like rap or Drum and Bass sound great, but instrumental, rock or new age is where is this system shines. Riding around in that car is like riding around in a portable concert or something. And the sound heard from outside doesn't sound like terrible mono like most cars you hear. It has a deep, rich stereo sound that just radiates when the doors are opened. Thank you Mazda for keeping the audiophiles in mind. Now how about paying for my noise ordinance tickets ;) Man I love it.
  • how can u fix a engines in a madza 626.i need to take a new head gasket on it
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The engine check light finally came on for the first time in my 99 V6 at 118K miles. I had Autozone pull the code for free and it was "EGR flow restriction".

    I decided to tackle this problem myself and this is what I did to fix the problem:

    1. Removed the EGR valve. Access to the valve is terrible on a V6. It is located in the back of the engine and there is an exhaust pipe connected to it. It is practically impossible to remove the pipe fitting at the valve (due to impossible access), so I removed the valve with a section of pipe by unbolting the pipe at the header exhaust pipe fitting. This is a 23 mm fitting so you need to get a 23 mm open end wrench because this is not a standard size wrench. The EGR valve on this car is electrically controlled (no vacuum line or vacuum diaphragm on this one), and it has an internal cooling jacket, so you must disconnect two coolant hoses going to it. Removing the valve with the exhaust line attached to it is difficult and requires a lot of patience to get it around the exhaust pipe to come out. I almost gave up on it when I decided to try one more time, twisted the EGR valve just right and the thing came out.

    2. I tested the solenoid coils of the EGR valve. All checked out OK per the shop manual spec (22 ohms resistance approximately). There was very little carbon buildup on the valve itself or inside the pipe attached to it. I did not remove the pipe fitting connected to the valve as it would have been impossible to tighten it later with the valve in place.

    3. I unbolted the throttle body and cleaned the two EGR exhaust passages in the intake manifold. These are located just past the throttle body on the bottom of the intake manifold throat. The holes are about 8 mm in diameter and they were completely caked with carbon. The best way to clean them is with a gun barrel cleaning brush soaked in carburetor cleaner.

    4. Scraping off the old gasket from the throttle body and exhast manifold was the worst part. Took a long time with a razor blade as it was baked on to the aluminum surface.

    5. I blew compressed air through the EGR valve port and it came through the two passage holes in the intake manifold.

    6. Reassembled all of the components, the problem is fixed

    The cost of materials: new EGR valve gasket, new throttle body gasket, carburetor cleaner, roll of paper towels, about $ 12 total. Beats replacing a $ 350 valve(plus at least $ 200 labor), especially when there was nothing wrong with the valve itself and it would not fix the problem anyway.

    Suggest cleaning the EGR ports in the intake manifold about every 30K to avoid this issue. It may be possible to clean these even without ulbolting the throttle body by holding the butterfly valve fully open. Throttle body removal requires disconnecting the electrical connectors to the throttle position sensor and the IAS valve, as well as two collant hoses becuase the throttle body has an internal cooling jacket.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,711
    I was out looking at late-model 626s a few days ago and I noticed that the '01s and '02s seem to have better overall build quality than the '98-'00. When I look at cars I check them over very thoroughly and slam the front doors a few times to ensure solidity. Even though you may digress with me, I find that an '02 626 has a less "tinny" feel than a '99.

    Also, did they still use that horrible Ford transmission behind the 4-cyls. in '01 and '02?
  • elmoroelmoro Posts: 1
    Hi nanette,
    I would be greatful of you can post programming instructions for the keyless remote of Mazda 626. the car i have is 1997 but it think the same remote as 1996 model.
Sign In or Register to comment.