Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

kinley · October 2001

A $600 fix will buy 150 qts of Mobile 1 so this engine will not be wrenched for worn exhaust valve seals. As it only has 97,000 miles and is 7 years old, it is doubtful the $600 oil expense will be reached.

jerrym3 · October 2001

Anybody have these symptoms? Every few days, trans just drops out of 4th gear. Doesn't downshift; it just seems to drop into Neutral. Taking pressure off the gas pedal allows the trans to drop back into gear.

Had a trans shop drive it; they couldn't duplicate the problem. (I also get the infamous 3-4th gear shudder every now and then.)

I plan to have the fluid changed before investing in a rebild, but will the new fluid possibly help correct the "dropping out of gear" problem? Any thoughts?

kinley · October 2001

however I didn't have the drop out of gear situation. First I would try the non synthetic Mercon V tranny oil remembering to drain the torque converter as well. If that doesn't clear up the problem or if it reoccurs soon, then go for the semi synthetic. There is a significant cost per quart difference between the two and you will use between 13 & 14 quarts depending on how much is drained of the old oil. Good Luck and keep us advised.

427435 · October 2001

jerrym3:

What year car and how many miles? When does it happen---cold or after driving 20 minutes? How fast and accelerating or steady speed?

For it to "drop" out of gear, it is probably something besides the oil itself. More likely inadequate pressure to the clutch pack (bad pump or seals), a worn out clutch pack, or something broken that keeps clutch pack from locking up tightly. I suppose a really plugged filter might do this but I would doubt that.

Low oil level could do this too, but I assume you've checked that with the engine running as specified.

jerrym3 · October 2001

Car has 85,000 miles. Slippage happens after warm up with light or steady pressure (cruising) on the gas pedal. Trans shop checked the oil level, drove the car, and wanted $325 just to pull the trans down and see what the problem was. ($325 would be credited towards any repair work.)
I hate to have the trans rebuilt unless I absolutely have to. I'm gearing myself for a new Marauder next spring, assuming that dealers don't mark up the car as much as they have with the new TBird.

kinley · October 2001

just as they have the new T Bird? In sales, there is no such thing as "excess profit". Price is correlated to demand. That is the capitalistic American way. My interest in the Marauder is wanning because of this fact.

rea98d · October 2001

You said letting off the gas lets it drop back into gear. Does it slip into neutral going around turns? When my T-Bird (same xmission as Crown Vic) started doing this, it was low on transmission fluid. Once I fixed the leak, it quit. No rebuild needed. Look under the car and see if the underside is coated in transmission fluid. Also, start the engine, warm it up, and then check the fluid level. On my T-Bird, the dipstick is on the passenger side of the engine compartment, all the way to the back. Good luck.

jerrym3 · October 2001

I agree with you that the dealers will mark up the car if they feel that they can get the higher price. But, depending upon the state of the economy, marking up the MM will not be as easy as marking up an all new car like the TBird.
I've heard that HotRod magazine projects a $29,500 MSRP, but which options are included (or not included), I don't know. Guessing a 32-33K with options/delivery etc, and a possible markup on top of that figure puts the car into a bracket that could hurt it.
Regarding my trans issues, problem never happens during cornering, only at highway speeds in 4th gear. (The car is a 94 Bird, not a CV, but, as you noted, drivetrains are similar.)

427435 · October 2001

I would carefully check the oil level. This needs to be done with warm oil (10 plus miles of driving), the engine running, and the tranny in Park. You may have to pull out the dipstick and wipe it off several time to get an accurate reading---oil from the dipstick tube will often transfer to the dipstick and give you an artifically high level.

harmar · October 2001

I had a '99 Sable that was sluggish shifting and acting odd during acceleration right after I got it (program car with 16K miles). The fluid was down less than .5 pint. Topping it off cured the problems. Good luck!

Sporin · October 2001

You guys should check out some of the other CV forums like www.crownvic.net and www.crownvic.org

Ther is a condition refered to as "transmission shudder" that seems to effect nearly every panther platform car. I think that this is what a lot of you guys are dealing with.

There are a few fixes and precautions found on those sites for that problem.

rea98d · October 2001

I have a 4.6 engine with 188,000 miles and change, and I decided to spend a beautiful suday afternoon under the hood of a car, trying to track down the rattling-pulley noise coming from the front of the engine. I slipped off the belt, and began checking pulleys, and the second one I checked (right after the alternator), I hit the jackpot. The water pump has a bit of play in the pulley (not much probably not more than an 1/8 of an inch, but it's there), and it's the source of the scraping/rattling noise, like it needs lubricating. I also have a phantom coolant leak, and I'm wondering now if the two are related, and if my water pump is about to pack up and go home? Any experts on these things care to enlighten me a little further before I resort to the "throw parts at it and hope it goes away" method of auto repair?

kinley · October 2001

lesser miles on our 4.6's. IMO you have accurately diagnosed the source of the missing coolant as well as the audible and usual accompanying sound. Curious: is that the original fanbelt?

rea98d · October 2001

Nope, not the original fanbelt. It had 130,000 and change on it when I got it, so I don't know if it had the original, but the one that was on it was cracking real bad, and I replaced it about 2 months ago before it decided to let go in the middle of nowhere. Anyway, it's reassuring to know I pegged the right part when it didn't sound right. I'll have to get a new water pump now.
Thanks.

vrios · October 2001

have 2000 gm with 28000 miles. under exelaration the car pings badly. took it to the dealer and they replaced fuel filter and cleaned the fuel injectors. $175 latter car still pings. I'm pretty sure it's not the gas because have tried different brands. Any ideals?

Sporin · October 2001

What octane are you using? You might try going up one level.

vrios · October 2001

using regular unleaded as specified by manual and dealership. The car didn't ping before on the same gas so i figure something must not be right. any suggestions?

mmecca1 · October 2001

Can you solve this? I have a 2000 GM and I get a
low "whizzing" sound as the car shifts, and it only lasts for a split second. The dealer said its
just the Anti lock brakes. I really dont think so.

harmar · October 2001

Three possibilities come to mind: timing, cylinder carbon build-up and emissions control system. Did the dealer suggest those? Another longer shot -- gas distribution was screwed up in some areas following the terrorists' actions in NYC. Did your station get its supply from the same source? Good luck.

427435 · October 2001

I follow the Taurus/Sable board also. Owners of late models of these cars are having the same problem---Ford must have cut a corner too tight on the programing for spark control and air/fuel ratios. I wonder if it will take them as long to admitt the problem and find a fix as it did for the plastic manifolds on the 4.6 V-8---that is if they really have a fix for the manifolds!!

vrios · October 2001

dealer suggest I add fuel additive and try exxon gas. I have and no difference. Car has only 28000 miles. I live in south Texas and gas is pretty good here. Currently gas is 99 cents a gallon (exxon and texaco). I will try texaco gas next but i don't think it's the gas my chevy works fine with same gas. I had hope it was a common problem with a common fix but I will have to go back to dealer for another try. Thanks for your help and any other suggestions.

blackstone3 · October 2001

Had the same problem with my 97 GM with around 20k miles. Replace the MAP sensor. The car states it only requires 87 octane so you shouldn't have to spend extra money to mask the problem. Stick with 87 octane and change the MAP sensor.

bigunit67 · October 2001

Hey gang...I'm looking into buying a 1997 GM with the handling and performance package. It's got 72K miles and got about 22-23 on the hwy, according to the previous owner (it's on a dealer lot presently). Otherwise, they 'said' they had no serious problems with it. Prior to getting it checked out by a personal mechanic I was wondering...

Are there any problems for that model year that you should look out for? Also, with this car having the rear air suspension, what's the track record on its reliability?

If anyone has some advice to pass along, I'm all ears...thanks

427435 · October 2001

I've got 174,000 miles on a '93 Grand Marquis with the towing package (back when Ford had a heavy enough built car to tow 5000 lbs) which included the air suspension. No problems to date.

pat · October 2001

The Crown Vic/Grand Marquis has won top honors in the "Large Sedan -- Under $30,000" category. Follow the link on the left sidebar of this page to read the story.

Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board

houndog · October 2001

Can't agree with you more on your selection. I have been telling anyone who will listen, that this car is the best buy on the road for $25 to 27K. Have a 99 GM/LS with HPP package, and love the car. Never had a problem at all. Only 2 requests, put in a Tach, and 100 additional HP. The new Marauder will solve both problems - just waiting for delivery next year.

kinley · October 2001

100 additional HP and a tach would be appreciated.It seems a tach could be included in the CV just as they have been in the T Birds. Fomoco advised me years ago that most buyers of their big units drive on the flats and an additional 100 hp is not needed. They roll out the factory doors with what they have. As one who drives in the mountains, 100 added HP would be great.

occupant1 · October 2001

plastic intake manifolds bite. The '98 P71 Crown Victoria I'm driving for a cab now just cracked it's manifold. 193,780 miles, original motor, never been apart before.

still have tranny shudder. The ONLY fix for this is to have ALL the transmission fluid replaced with fresh, clean, Mercon V synthetic fluid. Not Mercon III or IV, not Dextron III or IV, not Type F, not Type A. It's expensive to buy from the dealer, but it is the ONLY fix.

Shakyb has a letter on this car from Ford regarding the manifold, should it ever fail, to have it replaced, so my cab is at the dealer now. I want to have that transmission fluid replaced while it's there. Hope I catch them while it's there.

h3rmes · October 2001

Hello CV fans,

I just bought a 2001 CV LX, Comfort+, and Handling & Performance Package from my local Ford dealer. I've put on 300 thrilling miles on this beast and love the car.

Now, a couple of thing recently cropped up that I would like to ask the learned members of this forum.

The door that covers the refueling cap pops open after I hit a minor bump or when I shut my door. I looked at the latch at it seems fine. Any takers?

Second, my turn signal stalk occasionally blinks faster than normal when I click it down or up. I have the digital dash version. Should I be worried about that?

Regards,

Andy

houndog · October 2001

Both of the problems are under warranty - the fuel fill door latch is adjustable, easy fix. Not sure about the electrical on the turn signals - could be a variety of minor problems - let the dealer worry about it. Good luck with the new CV, you made a good choice.

ron35 · October 2001

Andy - I have a 2001 GM and had the same problem with the fuel door opening. The dealer fixed it and it is fine. I also have the digital dash but have not had the turn signal problem. The dealer should be able to fix these problems quickly.

Ron35

h3rmes · October 2001

Thanks for the info and the support. I am glad that I am not the only one with these rather minor but annoying bits. Dealer tells me that it will be fixed in under an hour and is not unusual.

Man the low end pickup on this car amazing. Has anyone done a 0-60 timing of this car?

Regards,
Andy

mariio · October 2001

when should i replace the timing belt on my 1998 C.V. with 105k miles

MArio.

rea98d · October 2001

It's a chain. Shouldn't need replacing. I've got 189,000 on a T-bird 4.6, and it's still on the original.

h3rmes · October 2001

Has anyone tried this wax that on their CVs? They claim that once you apply it you never have to wax again. It has a five year warranty.

http://www.toughguard.com

Regards,

Andy

occupant1 · October 2001

when this engine is cold, on the first start of the day, if the AC is running, I get a sound like popcorn popping under the hood. It comes and goes as the compressor is turned on and off, and goes away after the thermostat opens and the heat gets hot. I looked under the hood while it warmed up this morning, seemed like each pop made the belt tensioner move a tiny bit. Could the tensioner be clicking out of place? Is it too tight or too loose? Maybe something is pulling on the belt, like the water pump or the AC compressor?

stevem327 · November 2001

Do any of you long-term Crown Vic owners have any advice for a first-time owner driving in the snow?

I live in the mid-Atlantic region (Wash, DC Area) where our average snowfall is only 18 inches per year. I bought a 92 Crown Vic 4 months ago and this will be my first winter in it. The last RWD vehicle I had in the snow was a small pick-up truck with no weight in the back. That thing was fine in the snow until you came upon the smallest incline...then it was finished. It couldn't climb a 1% grade to save its life but on FLAT snow covered ground it was fine.

I would like to put 4 good snow tires on my CV, but that would run me over $400 installed. The police in my area run all-season radials year round and just keep snow chains in their trunks or at the motor pool for the winter months. A good pair of snow chains only costs about $60 so that's probably what I'll keep in my trunk, too.

Does anybody have any other advice to offer? The only thing that worries me are hills. I learned how to drive in Ohio, so I'm no stranger to snow, but up to this point, all of my snow driving has been in FWD cars where I did fine. I'm thinking the 50/50 front to back weight distribution will help in a Crown Vic. I've heard about putting some 50 pound sand bags in the trunk, too.

Anyway, thanks for any suggestions.

harmar · November 2001

I had the same concern when going from Sable to a Marquis. I ran Bridgestone Blizzaks on my FWD cars. But a buddy who worked for Ford and has driven GMs for years advised me that he never had a problem with OE rubber, though he always made sure to get Michelins. His driving was in MI, OH, and PA, mainly, but he and his wife liked to ski, so there were hills involved. I made sure my Marquis has traction control, though. Good luck!

427435 · November 2001

I have a '93 Grand Marquis here in Minnesota. It's not a fwd or a 4wd but I (and my wife who drives it to work)have always got where we wanted to go. I did find that BFGoodrich T/A tires gave it a lot better traction than the origninal Michelins. The car has air suspension and we buy 200-250 lbs of water softener salt and carry that in the truck---then use the salt in the spring and summer. The air suspension keeps the car level with or without the salt. We also live out in the country and often have to drive on some unplowed roads before getting to a plowed highway

stevem327 · November 2001

Thanks for the advice. I'm planning to keep snow chains in the trunk just to be safe. Hopefully the all-season tires I have on there now will do the trick, because I can't afford to spend $400 on a pair of Blizzak snow tires right now. Chains and all-season tires should be okay, I would think. Thanks again.

Hacksaw · November 2001

1. Have at least 200 lbs in the trunk. You might want to use bags of topsoil that you can remove and use in the spring, or salt, sand, etc...

2. Buy two Firestone Winterfire (~$60/each) tires for the rear wheels. This is not the ideal case (4 snows) but will get you out of parking spots and keep you moving while you're going up hills.

3. Having traction control does not eliminate the need for #1 and #2.

4. Chains are a mess and are really only needed for extremely steep inclines or when you didn't do #1 and #2.

The ideal case is buying a set of 4 good snow tires along with a set of rims. This eliminates frequent tire swapping which adds up pricewise, can cause rim damage, and gives you even tire rotation for winter and summer. However, it costs upwards of $600 depending on rims and tires.

The best snows I have found for my CV are the Nokian Hakka 1's. They're traditional snows like the WinterFire and run about $110 shipped (for 225/60R16). Imported from Finland, these tires specialize where deep snow and ice are an everyday reality. I rate them top notch in every category, and find it hard to imagine the Blizzaks giving better traction/control. However, I do know these Nokain's wear like iron (3 seasons with 35k miles and they're like new) which definately isn't true for the Blizzaks.

Final note: stopping is even more important than getting going. Going *down* hills or around curves are where the front snows will help you the most. Keep this in mind if going for the cheaper 2-tire route (which I think is appropriate in the DC-metro area).

ron35 · November 2001

I have a 2001 GM with no HPP. I just turned 11,000 miles and have noticed an increase in mileage from a range of 17-18 MPG to 19-20 MPG. The type driving, 60% city/40% highway has stayed the same. Has anyone else experienced the same thing; I am attributing this to the engine being broken in. Appreciate any feedback.

Ron35

kinley · November 2001

When it was serviced, the tech put more air in the tires.

stevem327 · November 2001

Thanks for the great advice, I really appreciate it. I went ahead and ordered 4 Bridgestone Blizzaks last night at www.tirerack.com for only $76/each. I figured it was worth it to spend the extra money. I decided I didn't want to be responsible for causing any accidents or getting stuck somewhere. I almost got the Firestone Winterfires for $48/each, but everybody says the Blizzaks are one of the best so I went with them.

Luckily, our average snowfall in this area is only about 18" every year. However, some years we'll get 2-3 feet, and then some years it won't snow AT ALL. It's hard to predict.

I'll take your advice and add at least 200 lbs to the trunk, but I don't have air suspension in my CV so I'm not sure if the extra weight will make the car sag. Keeping the gas tank full also adds about 125 pounds in the rear too (19 gals times 6.5 lbs per gallon). Keeping the transmission in "1" or "2" is also a good idea (provides engine braking). Thanks again.

kinley · November 2001

if it sags. Our Country Squire and our first Towncar had them. A valve stem similar to the tire is mounted near the license plate so the air can be injected at the service station. A tire gauge that goes up to 150 lbs is handy. After a few tries, you will know how much air is needed. We used to have 110 lbs when towing the boat. Sagging sucks.

stevem327 · November 2001

I'll look into getting a pair of those air shocks. I didn't realize it was just a matter of adding new shocks (I thought it was much more complex than that)...like having to add a whole new suspension or something.

Thanks again. It's great to be able to come to a forum like this and get such excellent advice.

Have a safe winter.

this_is_nascar · November 2001

I'm looking to purchase a 2002 Crown Vic LS-Sport. Is there any issues I need to be aware of?

this_is_nascar · November 2001

At what speed is the 2002 Crown VIC governed at?

rambling_rose · November 2001

How much are you selling the mobile popcorn popper for? I think I could make a buck or 2 with that car at high school sporting events.

JOSEAGULL · November 2001

I am planning to buy a 1998/1999 Mercury Grand Marquis. Currently, I have a 1992 toyota camry with over 200k miles and with no breakdowns since I purchased the car, except for routine maintanence. Can I get some opinions about the reliability of 1998/1999 Mercury Grand Marquis? I travel heavily and the last thing I want is a car that might stop in the middle of nowhere. Thanks.

Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy