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Dodge/Plymouth Neon



  • gigsgigs Posts: 11
    CH where did you get all the info on the 2001 neons??? I want to look it up. I wish I would have waited a year now because I bet they will be a lot better then the 2000 fixing a lot of the glitches
  • copperhead1copperhead1 Posts: 157
    The new 2001 will be much better,we will see better shocks,better steering,and maybe a better trans.(4 speed).
  • gigsgigs Posts: 11
    if so please post it :-)
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Here in Maryland, there is a dealer called Koons Dodge. I think they have prices up for the 2001 models now. I didn't see a 4-speed tranny on the options list, but maybe it isn't completely updated yet. Check it out. Go to and then click on "Build A Car" on the left side of the screen. Then on "Build A Dodge". Then change the model year to 2001 on the drop-down menu and choose Neon. Maybe that will help some.
  • mlaportamlaporta Posts: 9
    Thanks again to those who continue to assist me w/ trade in prices. I am picking up my new car in 4 days and the trade in was 6,2000. I can accept this, considering the car has to be towed to the new dealer, as the steering wheel froze in the midst of a right hand turn and I went off the road. Luckily it was a low speed "accident" w/ no injuries. Under warranty or not, this is considerably uncool and I am glad to be done.
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    62,000 sounds way better, I need you to trade in my neon for me, so I can get a viper. Even if you meant 6200 I think that is preety fair especially if you got some off the other end. I sure hope your luck with cars turns around as I think if a locked up stearing wheel were even remotely common on the neon a recall would be happening right quick. It just seems like a case of bad luck to me and I agree, way uncool.
  • copperhead1copperhead1 Posts: 157
    Sorry,no 2001 site for the Neon yet,next month look for it.
  • Help, I own a '95 neon with 100K+ miles on it and am looking to trade it in. The only serious problem I am having is with the paint. It has been peeling seriously since about 97. The roof of the car is almost completly gray by now. I remember hearing about a story that Dateline NBC did on the paint primer that GMC experimented with in 95. Apparently Dodge used the same primer. I did a bit of research and finally got in touch with someone at Dodge. They referred me to the dealership. My car was recalled due to a problem with the lower steering coupling, and while it was in I had the dealership look at the paint. They told me it would cost $200 as a deductible to repaint the car. Not a bad price for a paint job, but I figured why pay for Dodge's mistake? I tried again to get Dodge to own up, but they again referred me back to the dealership. I am looking to trade in the car, I don't expect to get much because of the mileage, but I could get a lot more with the paint fixed. Anyone got any ideas on how to get Dodge to play ball? Thanks.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    1986–97 cars, minivans, vans, sport-utilities, and trucks. Problem: Defective automatic transmissions and delaminated paint that turns a chalky colour and then peels off. Warranty coverage: DaimlerChrysler Canada and its USA parent, have offered full or partial refunds up to 7 years/100,000 miles (160,000 km). Canadian owners with vehicles that exceed the above parametres are receiving offers of 50% refunds on dealer estimates that appear unreasonably high. American owners are systematically refused any additional compensation.

    The above was found at
    Go to the site and click on "secret warranties watch" on the left side of the screen for more information.
  • edswordsedswords Posts: 47
    Lntonge - Do you ever apply the brakes?

    I stay away from mechanics for something a simple as replacing rotors. For the cost of their labor to turn them, you can usually by decent new ones and install them yourself.

    I was writing about the specific problem of warpage which I feel is the sympton of a cheap rotor and while turning the rotors might alleviate the problem for a time, the rotors would be apt to warp again.

    That is my complaint with my 95 Neon. The rotors were so cheap they warped & rusted in less than 30,000 miles.
  • mlaportamlaporta Posts: 9
    Hersbird etc, um, yes, I meant 6,200. But in the last two days, I've discovered two people w/ the same steering lockup issue. It only happens in the rain, and both the other people took it for diagnosis. Result: Nothing wrong! Well, there's at least three of us in one neighborhood. The obvious safety issues have encouraged the three of us to pursue this via TV news, due to lack of any response by dodge/chrysler. I don't even own mine anymore, but I am concerned for people who are driving them. Think: you could be the next driver OR you could be on the receiving end of the next Neon that stops steering...nightmare, nightmare, I'm done w/ mine but now I feel like I have to avoid other Neons on the road, too....
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Been driving my room mate's 2000 Neon for the past week or so and 1200 miles. Notice when I turn the steering wheel sometimes, I hear a clunk or some sort of noise coming from the steering. Also, notice a small "click" when driving coming from the steering column somtimes. Is this a potential problem rearing its ugly head???
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    LOL, yes, I apply my brakes. In fact, the past 3 years has been nothing but city driving with stops at almost every stupid stop light. I have had many panic high speed stops as well. I guess nothing can beat good old German parts; much higher quality than most rotors. Anyway, if you do your own maintenance like me, than turning rotors barely costs you anything. Take your rotors down to Discount Auto or a similar store and they turn them for $10 apiece. Much cheaper than buying new ones, with prices ranging from a low of $30 to over $120 a piece, and that is aftermarket rotors, not original equipment ones! Aftermarket rotors sometimes have inferior quality and tend to warp easier, especially if combined with cheap aftermarket pads. That is so sad your rotors warped that fast! Either the problem lies in too small rotors for the Neon's weight or rapid cool down of the rotors by hitting a puddle when they are super hot.
    Here is another little tidbit of info: Rotor warpage is not always caused by cheap parts; many cases of rotor warpage has been caused by pads that are simply made of a compound that is too hard, thus heating up the rotors more than they were designed to withstand. This occured with the 98-99 Kia Sephia. They were having high incidences of rotor warpage. The dealers just kept replacing the rotors with new ones and 5,000 miles later they were warped again. Kia finally figured out it was not cheap rotors that were the problem, but rather the pads were too hard and were heating up the rotors beyond their resistance levels. They came out with redesigned pads made of a softer compound and now all the complaints of rotor warpage has disappeared! That could have been the problem with your Neon as well.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I was also told that when you are doing stop and go driving and using the brakes a lot, you should try to avoid puddles in the rain. I was told if your brakes are heated up and you then hit a puddle, that sudden cooldown will cause warpage as well.
  • edswordsedswords Posts: 47
    I have heard that 'lifetime' brakes are too hard for rotors but didnt put it together with warped rotor problems.

    I am also wary of having autoparts stores turning rotors for me, but when my next car needs brakes, I just might try them out and see how they do. I dont have much to lose - except maybe some time.

    Hopefully, it will be a couple more years until I'm due for brake work.
  • mlaportamlaporta Posts: 9
    I had both the click and the clunk in my neon as well, but for quite a long time (ie more than a year) before my steering locked. Therefore, I think it is not related. The techs at my dealership told me the clunking was due to damage from an accident. However, the car had not BEEN in an accident and when I basically proved that, they were no longer able to hear the clunk even though the rest of the world did. Re the click: an SOP bolt was replaced in my steering column but that did not fix the noise. A nice Tech said they'd replace the whole column next, but that it was not a safety issue. I tend to believe him. So I had not had that done yet. I've since gotten rid of Neon. Good luck.
  • csaiacsaia Posts: 1
    At about 6,200mi, my automatic transmission decided it had about had it. (!!)

    Recently, it had been having trouble shifting from first to second gear for the very first time in the morning. Sometimes, I had to push the engine up to 5KRPM in order to get it to shift ... directly to 3rd. After that, I was more or less okay.

    Then I started having trouble where the transmission would occasionally take its sweet time to downshift. Sometimes, I would be at a stop for about 10-15 seconds before I felt the transmission thump twice (3->2, 2->1). If I tried to accelerate before the downshifting, I would move but I could feel a difference. (Well, obviously, since I was pushing the car in a higher gear than usual.)

    Since my father works for this dealership, I had my father inquire about the problem. The mechanics at the dealership where I bought my car told us there was some problem with the 2000 Neon transmissions made between a certain date that had trouble ('interference') shifting in cold weather. (some internal advisory note)

    I should have forced them to look more closely because ---
    1) The DOM of my car was earlier than the range of dates the advisory listed.
    2) It's June/July; hardly cold weather.

    The latest sign of a problem was last Saturday when it was binding in reverse. I attempted to back up, and it took some effort to move backward, and the motion was rather clunky. The car still moved forward fine, but now I was seriously concerned. I had my father drive the car to the dealership (since he worked there) last Monday.

    According to the mechanic, they may be able to order parts to replaced the damaged ones, but it's also possible the cost of the parts would exceed buying a new transmission.

    Since I purchased a 5/75 service contract on the car, I'm completely covered. The dealer even provided me with a free rental car while mine is being repaired. Perhaps more details as they become available.

    The estimated completion date is either Monday or Tuesday, about one week after I brought it in. (ordering parts, assessing the damage, etc.)
  • Sorry to hear about your transmission, do you know if there is a tsb on this? And what time frame is involved? I got my neon in march this year and to date I've had no problems, as a matter of fact I've had no problems at all (minus a defective temp gauge). I have noticed a very slight vibration at idle but I think this is attributed to the cam and it hasnt affected driveability at all. Hope they get you a new transmission it surely sounds like you need a new one versus a few new parts. I wonder if DC put the wrong trans fluid in at the factory, it kind of sounds like what would happen if dextron was put in there. :-7
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have been driving my friend's Neon since Friday 2 weeks ago, accumulating a total of almost 2000 miles (commute 100 miles a day to work). The dash rattles near the steering column, the tranny shifts harshly, and the car is unrefined and loud.
    The engine vibrates through the dash when idling in reverse (when cold or hot), and the engine also surges when idling in traffic. This has almost caused me to bump two different cars because it surges unexpectedly. Also, the engine tapped the other day when accelerating, and the engine was warm too. Time for a new engine already (I think), AT 12,000 MILES!!! Dodge. They're different alright!
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    Yep, that's what I say too. Of course it's from 7000 RPM, spinning the tires through three gears, leaving a weeks worth of rubber through the intersection. Yeh, very unrefined and pretty loud too.
  • What is the difference between a Dodge and Plymouth Neon? I priced out identical 1997 Highlines (Edmunds used car prices) and the Plymouth came out more expensive($1000).
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    They are the same exact cars, except for the exterior badging. One shouldn't be more expensive than the other.

    Also, the Neon is loud and unrefined when just cruising. I have a Mazda Protege (1999) and my friend has the 2000 Neon. While I will readily admit the Neon has more power for accelerating and passing than the Protege, it is twice as loud too. Plus, I don't care what anyone says, the Protege's stereo is miles ahead of the Neon's. Of course, so is its reliability and durability too.
  • beanboybeanboy Posts: 442
    But I bet I paid less than half of what you paid for your Protege, and I haven't had a problem yet. Certainly fun to whip around on the auto-x course to boot.

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I don't think so. For a loaded Neon, it's about $13,500 and I paid $13,000 for the Protege. Don't even try it.
  • Let me guess... you work for Mazda, right? If neon's are so bad, why do I see them ALOT more than protege's? Matter of fact, just yesterday I fell in behind two other 2000 neon's at a stoplight! There we were one green, one blue and one purple just sitting there waiting to cruise, pretty impressive. It seems to me the good far outweigh the bad on 2000 neon's. And whad'ya know I get alot of stares and a "nice car" looks. I've done my homework before I bought my neon and it paid off. :-6
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Those aren't nice-car looks you are getting. Those are "that piece of junk is still running and not in the shop yet?" looks.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    They are nice cars. They are assembled pretty well and look nice inside. I will not try to turn that around. They are not, however, refined when it comes to engine and road noise. They are also not refined when it comes down to the sounds the engine makes. When floored, the engine sounds as if it's coming through the firewall. It also idles very roughly. And Neons are not that reliable either. Check this forum right here of people who have had "lemon" Neons already in the 2000 models. Then check the Protege forum about lemon Proteges. Hardly any compared to Neons. Neons are famous for blowing head gaskets.

    You see more Neons than Proteges because Neons are priced a bit lower than the Proteges. But a few hundred bucks on purchasing is better than a few hundred or thousand in repairs down the road. Also, Neons are used for rental fleets and the like too, and Proteges aren't. That inflates the sales figures of them too.
  • mlaportamlaporta Posts: 9
    because Chrysler Corp keeps drawing people in with 0.9% financing.
  • mobaymobay Posts: 45
    Neon engine noise compared to the Protege'???

    I',m wondering how many here have read the latest
    magazine review (Car and Driver.., I think?) that did a head to head comparison between the Neon 2001 R/T and the equivalent performance Protege' model.

    Granted, these are 2001 "sportier" models compared to the 2000 Neon and Protege' models. However, they are fairly similar in having performance mufflers (read -louder than stock),and very similar engines(mainly intake tuning) to the 2000 models.

    OK, so according to the posts here, the Neon should be appreciably louder.Well, according to the empirical measurements (without human bias) the "noisy" Neon is exactly..,drum roll please!..
    1DB noiser than the Protege in WOT (wide open throttle).In the other sound areas the Neon and Protege' are EXACTLY the same.

    Also does anyone remember, the review of various Y2K model subcompact cars by Car and Driver in which the Neon placed 5th and the Protege' 1st. This review was about two or three months ago.

    Once again, the notorious "noisy" Neon, was only 1 DB than the Protege'.

    I freely admit that the Neon is louder than a Honda,or Toyota at WOT.It's "noise" at WOT is however, extremely pleasing TO ME.My 5spd. ES at 70-80MPH ,in 5th gear is as quiet as any car I have owned. Guess those who are complaining have auto tranny Neons.., I dunno, you guy's tell me.

    As for the two reviews and particularily the last one, with the Neon R/T versus the Protege' I'm confused.

    Should I believe a non-biased ,electronic, decibel level meter(magazine).., or the emotional "seat of the pants" measurements of human beings(see above posts).

    I'm confused fella's .., help me out!
  • vocus: youre right, Neons are junk....but I guess that means every car on the road today is junk too because all cars have problems, all cars. Now if you can prove me wrong, you just let me know.
    ( and dont tell me import's dont have serious problems, I've seen some horrific problems on imports!)

    mlaporta: Tip of the day: There are more Neon's on the road because dodge has a better marketing strategy than anyone else, so dont blame neon's.

    So, what this means is: If you have a serious problem with your car(no matter if it's import or domestic) you try to FIX THE PROBLEM AT HAND, not degrade the manufacturer because you'll get nowhere, fast.
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