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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • Jeffrey15 and Ehenness your suggestions were very helpful. I am a little uneasy about installing the changer myself but at least this is a start.
  • sculldog33sculldog33 Posts: 19
    2000 Sable at least has the stainless steel exhaust.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Thanks, my guess is Taurus likely is also stainless, as I would imagine they share the same exhaust components. Sheet metal and option packages has been typically the main difference between Sable and Taurus. My guess is they share the same assembly plants, right?
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    How do muffler shops stay in business these days? I had an '80 Honda and a '87 Ford van that ate exhaust systems. Every two years you were back getting the system replaced. Had my '89 Taurus wagon for 11 years and never a problem. Ditto with our '97 Ford E-150 van. Our present cars (2000 Mustang, 2001 Taurus and 2001 Focus) are too new to get a handle on but I imagine we'll have the same results.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    It appears most of them have branched out to do other services such as brakes, shocks and struts, alignments, tires, batteries etc. Relying only on mufflers and tailpipes would result in a dying business. Stainless systems sure are great from the consumer standpoint. Especially since the typical aftermarket exhaust systems were so cheap the pipes and mufflers would tend to go after about 2 years, even though the muffler had a "lifetime" warranty.

    Auto reliability has come a long way from the "good old days" when you had to have a tuneup every 10,000 miles and tires went 20,000 miles at most.
  • gtyatesgtyates Posts: 14
    Has anyone else had a dash rattle in their 2001 Taurus? Mine seems to be coming from the left side of the dash, between the steering wheel and the driver's door. The car is still under warranty, but I am looking for ideas before I take it in. The rattle initially was intermittent, but has now become pretty steady when driving. Other than this rattle and the crappy Firestone Affinity tires, I am totally satisfied with the car, and after 19k miles have not had any other issues with it.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I don't have any suggestions, haven't had it on mine. Can you try to stop the rattle by pressing on various areas on the dash surface? Sometimes that can help isolate the problem if it is a surface panel or A-C vent.

    On another subject, I am surprised Ford is using any Firestone tires, after the big Explorer/Firestone tire fiasco. I thought they had cut ties completely with Firestone. My '00 has Continentals that are fair. They seem to work very well on snow, fair on dry pavement, but have very little wet pavement traction. It is easy to spin the wheels on wet pavement. The 200HP Duratec makes this show up more.

    I will upgrade to something better when they wear out.
  • gtyatesgtyates Posts: 14
    Thanks for the reply Badgerfan. I have not been able to isolate the rattle by pressing various areas of the dash. I believe it is something internal, but so far have been unable to find it myself.

    I,too, was surprised that the car came with Firestone tires. I also plan to upgrade to either Bridgestone Potenza's or possibly Michellin Pilot's, but am holding out until I can't stand it any longer.

    Now, if I can just find the rattle, I will be happy again with the car. By the way, mine is an SES model, black, with gray leather and the rear spoiler. I still get compliments on the car, and even some questioning just what exactly am I driving.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Mine is a Dark Green SES. Got cloth seats though, and no spoiler. I picked what best fit my needs off the lot at end of model year-they had $1000 rebate and O.9 APR both available at once at the time. The Duratec is great, although I probably would get better mileage if I didn't exercise it on acceleration as often as I do. Hope you find your rattle. My experience with Tauri is interior rattles are very rare. My previous '90 went ten years and didn't have a rattle when I sold it.

    I think Ford would sell a ton more of them if they promoted it more. Great bargain compared to the major foreign competitors. (Accord and Camry, of course)
  • sculldog33sculldog33 Posts: 19
    Anyone aware of any replacement speakers for the A pillar mounted speakers on a 2000 Sable with the Mach Audio? I'm getting distortion/noises from the driver's side speaker and while I can likely get this replaced at the dealer under warranty, I figure the odds are good that it will go again. Not a teenager and don't blast the thing, but occassionally do get 4-5 "dots" on the screen displayed, which is reasonably loud, but not nearly full blast. Sort of annoyed that this premium upgrade isn't capable of handling the power it came with.

    Would like to put in a nice aftermarket speaker, but don't know how this would effect the overall sound. Would I need to replace all 6 speakers for best results? Would the amp and equilizer settings still work with the new speakers? Is this something a car stereo novice could tackle?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated!
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    Would suggest you give the folks at Cruchfield a call as they supply replacement speakers for many many OEM installations.

    4 - 5 dots, huh?? Wow! You do like it loud if the radio works the same as in our 2001 Taurus SEL!
  • alharalhar Posts: 11
    Have really been enjoying my new fully loaded Matador Red Taurus. It has all of 600 miles on it and I have no major complaints. The side arm rest does seem a bit hard on my elbow and the door latches seem a bit less than sturdy. Haven't had power like this since my 67 Ford Hardtop V-8 390.
    Have trouble making a smooth acceleration from a stopped position.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I bet you won't be stopping for gas as often as you did with your 67 390 V-8 either. Or for tires, tuneups, etc.

    I asked awhile back, anyone with high mileage yet on their 2000 and newer Taurus? How are they doing, any problems other than routine maintenance?

    This board is pretty quiet. Guess everyone is happily, quietly enjoying their Tauri.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Posts: 114
    Three dots on Grandma's '97 Taurus is loud enough for me! :-)

    I posted here a (long) while back explaining that the factory alarm on her '97 Taurus LX was randomly going off at all hours of the nights. Well, as mysteriously as it started, is seems to have stopped (at least for now). It sure had her scared to lock her doors (ok, she is an extremely timid and anxious little woman), and she still refuses to lock them. I don't like the idea of her car sitting in a parking lot for days (like it often is) unattended and unlocked. It's a good thing that the car's ignition needs the chip in the key to start.
  • alharalhar Posts: 11
    Bought the 67 Ford in early 68 at Ft Knox KY, and drove to Florida and then to LA. Got 9 to 10mph at that time. Gas was a bit cheaper then. Not too many cars were able to pass me back then. LOL.

    Was just showing my 10 year old nephew the SEL. He got a big kick out of the keypad on the door,
    the power seat and extender pedals. Wants his Dad to get one like it.

    Locked the car with my wife in it at a shopping center the other day. When she got out the alarm sounded but by the time she found me it had quit.
    Won't do that again.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    why anyone would discuss reliability for 2000 and above Tauruses? There maybe a few 100k plus cars out there and there shouldn't be many major mechanical problems with a group of cars (2k,2001 and 2002 models) this young.

    Time will tell, but it is way too soon to predict better reliability for this generation. I'm not sure Ford cares and eventually that will lead to their downfall as younger generations continue to buy Japanese and European nameplates because of a perception they are more reliable.
  • mralanmralan Posts: 174
    I'm looking for a quiet tire to replace the Firestone Affinity's on my 01 SES.

    Any recommendations?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Yokohoma Avid, quite, budget oriented, high quality. I am very pleased with them. They made big difference on my 00-SES
  • mralanmralan Posts: 174
    Did you get the Avid H4's or the Avid T4's?
  • I have 68k on my my Taurus. I commute 220 miles a day, approx. 4 1/2 hours/4 days a week. My car is fully loaded, with all the comforts. I have experienced a number of problems with my car since its purchase. Besides the original transmission, I have had it replaced 2 times.... hoping to not have to replace it again. I have an 80k warranty, and if the tranny goes again, I hope it is within the next 12k miles. I have had most everything else replaced... except the water and fuel pumps. Even my moon roof and the head liner replaced. But in the last 25k miles, the car has been very, very good to me. I like the car. It is very comfortable for driving, and my wife loves the ride when we go on trips. I have replaced the tires, using Yokohama Avid's and am very happy with their performance. Changing the tires made an incredible difference in the drive and handling, not to mention a large decrease in road noise.
    I go by the book on maintenance, so I should be able to pass this car down to the girls as a good car in a couple of years. Will I buy another Ford? I am not sure. I am not thrilled at all the problems encountered with this vehicle. I am surprised that with all my problems in the past, that Ford has never contacted me, with concerns, comments or critisisms that I might have regarding the vehicle, the service. I have to believe that they keep a data base on their automobiles and the number of problems that occur. If they saw my file, they are probably too embarrassed to contact me.
  • iusecadiusecad Posts: 287
    I'm just curious, but do you know which factory your car was built at? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that one of the factories might have had more quality control issues than the other...

    Also, what kind of mileage are you getting with all your driving?
  • I think my car was built in Oklahoma. I know the Assembly Plant location was on one of the window stickers, but I removed all that stuff.
    I get approx. 27 miles on the freeway. Approx. 40 of the 220 miles is mountainous. In the city, I get approx. 18 miles, sometimes less depending on my driving habits.
  • mralanmralan Posts: 174
    Same question that I have for snowman. Did you purchase the Yoko Avid H4's or T4's?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    They are Yokohoma Avid Touring. I found them in with excellent test result and very compatitive price. I paid $47.91 each plus installation.
    If you ever get new set, get them balanced in the dealership. 3rd party shops are cutting corners on lead weights and they are pretty much small compare with dealership weights. I had this problem. I took it to dealership they balanced it since then they are excellent.

    One other suggestion that I read here, wash your alloys with dish detergent before you take it in for balancing, this way weight will stick to alloy like glue and you won't loose them, otherwise surface dirt may cause loss of wheel weight.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I am surprised about your transmission problems. I am just curious, what were the symptoms before they went south?
    Mine is built in Georgia plant which is considered risky plant in terms of quality. I got 30K, so far power steering pump was replaced, other than that, it's been good. Got the trany. flushed at 22K. and before the summer, got all fluids replaced. Keep an eye on brake fluid. It must be like champagne color, if it is darker get it replaced asap.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    are built in either Chicago or Atlanta. Interesting that a 2k model is having transmission trouble so early in its life.

    My 97 had the "service engine soon" light go on last week. I thought it was emmisions. My mechanic told me the code stated excessive slippage in the transmission. Tranny seems fine to me. The light was reset and I've driven approximately 150 miles since and no Service Engine Soon" light has gone back on.Hoping it was something with a bad sensor signal; although I've heard these trannies go without much warning.

    My mechanic also stated he liked the old Vulcan motor over the DOHC. Thinks it is built better and will last longer. Who knows? Just his opinion.

    I didn't read anything where Ford states that significant improvements were made to the new (2k and on) trannies.I was told at my Ford dealership that there are two suppliers of transmissions; one is much better than the other.

    I too am curious as to what symptoms the car had before your transmissions failed.

    Like I said before, way too early to tell if Ford has improved reliability on the Taurus/Sable. This is the same company that keeps cranking out 3.8 liter engines. I wouldn't want that piece of head gasket eating junk!
  • mablemable Posts: 2
    Just picked up a 2000 Sable LS Premium without the Mach audio system but do have the trunk mounted cd changer. Would like to add if possible the pillar speakers. I'm thinking that perhaps the wiring is already there. Has anyone done this. Checked Crutchfield and they only list info on the 4 speaker set-ups.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    both the vulcan and duratec are solid motors.
  • upsetter1upsetter1 Posts: 205
    There are two kinds of transmissions AX4S and AX4N in Taurus. What kind you have? It all depends. I know couple of guys who didn't have any problems with notorius AXOD-E up to 150K. My friend also changed powersteering in his 97 Camry around 27,000 miles.

    Excessive slippage may be not with transmission by with torque converter. It has piston clutch that can slip when for some reason transmission fluind leaking from internal sealings. But you have to feel hash engagment at 15 mph. It doesn't work normally when there is excessive TC slippage, because computer increases trans fluid pressure. Another sign is a harsh engagment when you go from parking to drive.
  • bdingerbdinger Posts: 1

    I had a similar problem with my '97 Sable in which the alarm would go off for no reason at all. It turned out to be a faulty sensor in the engine lid that was affected by moisture.

    You can still lock your doors without setting the alarm. All you need to do is push down on the lock instead of using the electronic buttons or remote. This should lock the door, but not set the alarm.
This discussion has been closed.