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Please send your response including Ford model and daytime contact info by Monday, June 30 to jfallon@edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I'd guess the car you're looking at came from one of those states, not California, if you're on the East Coast.
The specs for the last several years (1996-up) are no different for CA vs Federally-certified cars, both for EPA estimates and HP/torque ratings. This is true at least for the Taurus--I can't say for other models.
I have a '98 Taurus that was a Ford-owned car in Michigan (i.e., Federal certification) and it's now registered in MA. The dealer has not had any problems servicing it, nor have I, even though most Tauruses here are CA emissions cars.
If you go to a dealer, they will bring up the car info by VIN in the Ford system, and that will have the emissions/powertrain calibration codes. If for some reason you need to have it re-flashed or otherwise changed, the re-flash process will ask for the current calibration code (or read it out of the computer) and will know what that means.
Shops that use the latest diag equipment and computers should also be able to read this info and know what to do with it.
In short, you should not have a problem. As far as I can tell, the parts are all the same and it's the calibration (i.e., computer programming) that changes. If there is a difference in parts, the fact that MA, NY, and VT use California certification should mean that dealers and parts stores either stock the parts or can get them easily and quickly.
If you like the car, go for it. The emissions certification shouldn't concern you.
Thanks in anticipation
Ian
Basically, it involves turning the key on and inserting and removing the belt a certain number of times within so many seconds. I don't have details, but it's in the manual.
If you don't have one, you can get a free PDF version from Ford's service website at www.qualitycareservice.com (click on 'glove box manuals' under the 'maintenance' heading on the lower left of the page). If you want to buy one, go to www.helminc.com, which is Helm's website. They are the document vendor for Ford.
Note that the usual belt signal will probably still sound when you first start the car (you get the seat belt light and 5-10 seconds of a chime). That happens with every car, going back into the 1970s. The belt minder is the one that chimes at intervals all the time.
Kind regards
Ian
Thanks.
Probably not a lot of posters here as this generation Taurus has been out since 2000 thus the buzz of a new model has long since subsided. Also, the level of posting is highly dependent on most boards by having a small group of persistent posters. For example, the Olds Intrigue board gets a lot of posts, even though the car is no longer in production.
As far as what selector positions AC on goes, I do believe mine comes on automatically when the selector is in Defrost,the Defrost/Lower Vent mix, and in the AC and Max AC positions. These positions make sense in that you want to dehumidify any air that hits the windshield, then use the temperature control to reheat it so that you are using dry warm air on the windshield, to remove moisture on the inside as rapidly as possible. These comments are for the base system, not the automatic climate control system which I cannot comment on.
I was afraid of that since most days at 70F, there is no need for A/C but it would be nice to have Venting to the feet and up or anywhere for that matter as most other cars do. I had never own a Ford/Mercury until now and find this annoying but I am sure I will get used to it. Other than this I love the car.
If you have manual climate control then you have to turn on/off AC manually.
I don't hate the Impala, but I haven't found a car yet that I would take the Impala over it.
Really terrific.
Or maybe the cabin filter needs to be changed?
Cabin filter has to be changed every 15,000 miles, of course if you care about your health.
The Impalas have a MUCH more comfortable rear seat with more leg room than do the Taurus. I have not driven either so I can not speak for the front seat or driving comfort.
Per Edmunds New Car Specs:
Taurus Front Leg Room 42.2, rear 38.9
Impala Front Leg Room 42.2, rear 38.4
Taurus Front Head Room 40, rear 38.1
Impala Front Head Room 39.2, rear 42.2
While I haven't sat in the rear of an Impala, if they are like most GM sedans, the rear seat is very low in the car, giving you a lot of head room, but making you feel like you are sitting on the floor. Taurus rear seat is quite comfortable, in my opinion and doesn't make you feel like you are sitting in a washtub.
By comparison, the 2nd row or even 3rd row of the Honda Odyssey EX or Dodge Grand Caravan Sport or the 2nd row seating of the Ford Explorer is MUCH more comfortable for us than was the back seat of the Ford Taurus.
Not hard for me to see why people are buying minivans and SUV's since back seats in most sedans are too low which makes the sitting position un-natural.
The 2001 Blazer LT 4 WD with 4.3L V6 gets much better gas mileage and is quieter and smoother on the highway but has much less space. The 1994 Corolla Wagon was comfortable until age caught up with my wife and I. The seats are just too low for comfort on trips. That is why I would not buy a Ford Taurus: Poor seating position as in all current sedans. I will admit that the Taurus is probably more quiet and more stable at highway speeds than any vehicle I now own.
I love the auto climate control, it will be hard to ever own another car without it.
A friend of mine who is a mechanic just told me the other day that Ford's have some of the coldest A/C units on the market..
Guess how I know?
http://www.tauruscarclub.com/modules.php?set_albumName=2004&o- p=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.- php
Egg crate grille and front fascia
New tail lamps and rear fascia
Updated multi-function switch for wipers, turn signals and flash-to-pass
Updated steering wheel
New updated instrument cluster
2-line message center
Internal engine modifications to improve efficiency
Improved transmission for better shift quality and fuel economy
New air induction system for improved filtration and serviceability
Duratec engine is now LEV II compliant
Passenger seat weight sensor and BeltMinder™ added to Personal Safety System™
What happened? Someone bring me up to speed.
Two days before vacation-two weeks ago, my 2000 SES wipers stopped working. Took it in to dealer after work the same day it happened and dealer diagnosed bad wiper motor. They didn't have part in stock, but got it in the next day and replaced it that day when I brought it in after work-car is still under warranty so cost me nothing. Only a little over one month left on the 3 year 36K warranty, so soon I will be on my own.
Dealer has great service hours every weekday evenings and on Saturday and I have been able to get it in right away for both warranty issues so far. First warranty issue I had was for bad sway bar links about a month ago. Hope these two problems near the end of the warranty will be all for a while.
We did not take the car on vacation, we flew to SF and rented a car there. Ended up with a Chrysler 300M with 12K on the odometer. Gave it a good workout-over to Yosemite in 106 degree heat across the Central valley, then through the twisties in and out of Yosemite twice, then over to Monterey for a few days. Nice car, but I really didn't notice that it was all that much of a better car than my Taurus Duratec. The Autostick did come in handy in the mountain roads however, using engine braking in third and sometimes second gear rather than riding the brakes. It seemed to be not quite as quiet as my Taurus, which was a bit of a surprise, and was also missing dual sun visors, a minor oversight.
The 300M had a lot more bells and whistles but I wouldn't be able to justify more than maybe $2K over my Taurus. I am sure I wouldn't touch a new 300M for anywhere near $20K.
The 300M had black leather seats and a dark colored exterior and is not what I would want if the car sits in the sun for any amount of time. We took to putting beach towels on the seats so you could sit in it without frying.
On another note, I just saw a local dealer ad for what appeared to be a completely loaded top of the line new Mercury Sable for about $18,400(including all the rebates). Sounds like a heck of a bargain. They are really dealing these days.
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2003-08-15-carcosts_x.htm
reinforces the research on intellichoice.
"The Honda Accord, for example, sells for almost $5,000 more than the comparable Ford Taurus. And the Taurus has a $3,000 rebate on it. Still, over five years, the Accord on average will be $1,000 cheaper to own than the Taurus.
• Taurus drops $14,471 of its value over three years, and will typically cost the owner $5,753 in maintenance. The Accord loses $11,691 in value and will cost an average of $3,682 to maintain."
Wow, $1,000 cheaper. But wait-they are figuring depreciation as an expense??? That's not really accurate when calculating "cost of ownership." I wish I could deduct my depreciation on my income tax! It certainly is a factor for folks who buy a brand-new car and trade it in every 3 to 5 years, but those folks are in the minority nowadays and aren't really very cost conscious anyway, right? I was actually surprised to see the three-year depreciation difference between Taurus and Accord to be only $2,500. And WHAT is up with the maintenance costs they quote? $5,700 and $3,700?!?! In the first three years? HUH? Yeah, maybe if you buy a new Yugo with a 90-warranty from Moscow Greedy Capitalist Pigs Auto Sales you would spend that much in maintenance. That must have been a figure representing a longer period of repairs. (They did the same thing with the Windstar/Odyssey example).
I would agree with the basic premise of the article that buyers need to be reminded of the higher costs of ownership of American cars over time when they are seduced by incentives(plus the incalulable inconvenience and frustration of dealing with more frequent repairs), but the supporting arguments really need to be examined here.
Depreciation is an expense even if you keep the car over 5 years. A 7 year old Accord with 90,000 miles is still worth quite a bit more than a similar Taurus.
If you buy a 2 year old Taurus, then you can greatly reduce your depreciation expense. You might be able to pick up a nicely equipped 2001 Taurus today for $8K vs at least $17K for a new 2003/2004 SES even after rebates are deducted.