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Volvo S70

191012141524

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    First off the picture shows the 40 MPH BARRIER TEST. Of course the drivers airbag went off.
    The passenger airbag went off beacuse the seat belt wasn't buckled.
    All the say about the bags is that they were re-designed in response to new Federal regulations governing airbag deployment at low speeds.
    The original legislation was written to protect an unbelted 5'8" 175 lb man in a frontal collision. The current legislation is for a belted man. 2 stage bags were mandated.
    As far as the bumper test is concerned, Volvo also has to meet the European NCAP regs which state that the front ends of cars must be soft in order to offer some protection to pedestrians if they are struck by the car. The 5 mph test isn't about safety, its about saving the ins co's $$.

    As for the rest, I have probably seen alot more wrecked Volvo's than you have and I'm quite aware of their construction. Your statement about the door possibly been blown inwards is silly. The door is held in 4 places on a side impact, 2 WELDED, not bolted on hinges. Plus a robust door lock and a flap of reinforced steel that protrudes up from the floor to catch the bottom of the door under the latch.
    Volvo has stated numerous times to us, and to others that their airbags are secondary protection and only deploy when absolutely necessary, especially the side bags.
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    lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Dude, do you read anything? The first 3 pictures are of the WRECKED car, the last picture was after the BUMPER test. Notice no paint from the dummy's head is on the inflated bags like there is during the impact tests, and the windshield is intact whereas in the impact test it is shattered! Read the stupid inserts. And I quote, "changes to the airbag sensors reduce the likelihood of deployment in minor fender-benders, and better positioned vent holes direct hot gasses away from a driver's hands". And what's your point about Volvo needing to meet Euro NCAP bumper tests? So do other cars that are sold here. Yes, the IIHS is trying to save insurance companies money. But in no situation is an airbag needed in a simple 5 mph bumper impact, thus why Volvo recalibrated the sensor. This was not in response to federal regulations nor tuning the bags for dual threshold duty. They did the calibration on their own to fix an obvious problem. I know you are trying to sound like the knowledgeable Volvo salesman (or whatever you are), but honestly man, you have killed your credibility by not sweating the details.

    I never said you don't know Volvo's system. I said you can't state Volvo uses higher thresholds unless you know OTHER car's systems. As for the door caving in comment, since I have seen the door caved in on some cars with almost no damage to the floor, I don't think its silly and I was using the example to counter your ridiculous assumption that an airbag will only go off if the frame is damaged. As you originally stated, "frame damage is the SOLE decider on a Volvo", but I proved to you its a matter of deceleration based on readings from an accelerometer. If the force is enough to shove the door inward toward the occupant and risk injury but there is little to no frame damage, then the side bag should inflate.

    The new airbag designs are all about preventing injuries period. Notice if you will how some newer car's side airbags also inflate in the offset impact. They are designed to do so to keep the dummies head away from the door panel and other potential hard points that can cause head injuries. Granted, the S70 in question was designed before these new ideas came around.

    After reading the guy's comments again, my thought is the side airbag didn't go off in this case because the car was hit in the front fender area. Had he hit square on the driver's door at the same speed, the airbag should and probably would have inflated.
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Okay, this is getting way too heated and is obviously pointless. Neither of you is going to change the other's mind.

    If you can't politely agree to disagree, then please don't post to each other anymore.

    Thanks.
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    klarckklarck Member Posts: 8
    Well, with all due respect I’d like to comment. Yes, the above interchange was too heated, pointless, and neither “alpha” male was willing to concede to anything. But on the other hand, it is sophomoric eloquence of this nature that brings some of us back here everyday to read, chuckle and thank our lucky stars that people like this are not running our country (or are they?).

    Pat, I agree, this forum should not be turned into a Jerry Springer show, but once in a while we all need a good laugh.
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Politics and Jerry Springer? Oh please ... let's not go there! I don't think I have enough bleach to mop up that bloodbath. :-)

    Let's just get back to the S70 - minus the fisticuffs. Okay?
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    lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Actually, I'm quite a fair person. If I'm proven wrong with documentation, then I will gladly concede and often times even delete the offending posts. But if I know I'm right and prove it with links, I at least expect the other person to look at the info and admit I have a point. I'm not trying to be childish, just hoping maybe he would see what I was trying to say.

    I hate more then anything for the unknowing to be given false, misleading, or vague info. I got a little carried away (I was mostly being heavily sarcastic because I thought it was funny he didn't see the details right in front of him) because I knew I was right about the S80 info and even after seeing my links, the guy still said I was wrong. Anywho, I'm glad some people saw humor in the bantoring. I mean this forum is to be taken lightly, not personally. :)
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    rd_volvord_volvo Member Posts: 34
    Well I got it! Not a club I wanted to join.

    Right now the light is going out after each restart but coming back after 5 or ten minutes.
    Performance was great before and still after the ETS started on the 5 year mark a few days ago.

    Car is out of warranty and don't have a grand for a new ETM Electronic Throttle Module right now.

    I need to buy some time. Can anyone who has been down this road tell me how much time they had before they absolutley had to bring it to the dealer? I hear there is no warning to the ETM fully malfunctioning.

    I love this car but the myriad of problems is putting a bad taste !!!

    Thx

    rd

    99' C70 HTP M 43k Miles
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    Maybe someone can help me out with this a bit. I was under the impression that the ETS was the same as the '98 TRACS system. Am I wrong? Cause in the '98, the common problem is that the ABS module board develops cracks over its life and will start to throw up both ABS and TRACS lights. This requires a new module (or rebuilt if you know where to go). So what does ETS stand for? I guess I figured it was Electronic Traction something-or-other. But if its related to the throttle, maybe its Electronic Throttle Sensor and I've been assuming wrong all this time.

    I just did a search for ETS on this board and found no other solid information on it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    rd_volvord_volvo Member Posts: 34
    Yup ! ETS is the Electronic Throttle System and
    99's and newer have no distributor cap and rotor just a computer box called to TCM Throttle Control Module. I think what has been happening to the ABS Tracs module is now happening to the TCM module. Little cracks and the such in the circuit board as the box is connected directly to the manifold. Think how hot that thing must get.
    The constant tempereature fluctuation must be tremendous. From winter cold to 0 or colder to hundreds of degrees day in and day out.

    I can and would expect to pay a decent amount of money to replace these parts but $900 - $1,100 is a bit outrageous.

    rd
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    thanks for clearing that up for me.

    sorry to hear about it.

    all i can say is i'm glad that's one less thing i have to deal with on mine.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
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    jocelynljocelynl Member Posts: 3
    This must be the month for it. I put my car into the shop this morning because the engine light kept coming on and it wasn't starting properly. The technician just called and informed me that it is the Electronic Throttle System and quoted me a repair cost of $1120.00. I have a 2000 S70 Turbo. Now they told me that it is no longer under warranty. Now isn't the warranty 4 years or 50K miles? If I bought the car new in Nov of 2000 and it has 47K miles shouldn't it still be under warranty till November?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    did you ask them that question? And, if so, what did they tell you?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    jocelynljocelynl Member Posts: 3
    Yes, they are saying that the car came in Sep 99 and they don't know if it was a dealer car or what but the warranty started in Sep of 99. When I bought the car it did have 1129 miles on it. So I don't know, no one ever stated that the warranty started in Sept. 99.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    They don't know?? Are you the original owner? If the car was never title before, then you are and the warranty started from the day YOU bought it. Every warranty I know of states "from date of original purchase." It doesn't matter when it arrived on the dealer's lot.

    Now, the question is, where did you buy it from that they don't know? Was this not a Volvo dealer that you purchased it from? If the dealer you got it from did not get it right from the factory, then, unfortunately, I believe that is a problem because then the title did change hands before you bought it.

    They should easily be able to see if you are the original owner or not.

    And what happened when you originally bought it? Did you buy a new car or a used car?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Was when the 2001 S60's were coming out.
    The S70 had already ceased production
    jocelyn bought a used car.
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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    jocelyn bought a demo or service loaner car, which is why the warranty started when it did.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    just because she bought it late doesn't mean it was used. It could have been a dealer car, like she mentioned, in which case it would not have been previously titled and it would still qualify as being "first purchased" by her.

    Heck, I know someone who bought a "new" 1999 Chevy pickup when the 2001s came out.

    But it is starting to sound like, in this case, it was used.

    -edit - oh, you beat me to the punch with that last one.
    But, again, even if it was part of the dealer's fleet, its not usually titled as such and the warranty in-service date does not start until the titled owner buys it. That's how I've always seen it done, anyway.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    That's not how Volvo operates. If the car was a service loaner the warranty started when the car was put into service @ the dealer. The dealer should have been clear w/ the customer as to when the warranty started and when it would end.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    that definitely should have been clearly stated. but, really, buyer beware. sounds like someone should have done more homework before purchase.

    But I'm also thinking she didn't buy it from the original dealer since, according to her, "they don't know if it was a dealer car or what but the warranty started in Sep of 99." So it sounds like this was bought at auction and sold as a used car.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    bhollandbholland Member Posts: 1
    I have the same vehicle but also had same nagging problems. I tried
    everything imaginable beginning with additives to clean throttle
    and injectors. I have a friend that works for Mighty Auto Parts
    that instructed me a few years ago on how important it is to be sure
    and tighten the gas cap at least three clicks or it would cause a
    malfunction light to come on. The S70 cap has always been very easy
    to turn with very little resistance when new and finally just sounded
    very smooth and silent. I purchased a new one from Volvo($32). I
    compared them and it is apparent of a change in design. The man at
    the parts counter said he had it in stock and said, 'does that tell
    you something'. Bottom line- fixed- not a single incident of the
    light coming on for the last three months. It was coming on three or
    four times per trip of 50 miles. Hope this helps.
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    ben5ben5 Member Posts: 1
    2000 Volvo S70

    I noticed rear door panel leather "bubbling" The car is not covered by warranty anymore, does anyone know how much it costs to fix this or can I fix it myself?
    Also, have the beige interior with beige leather steering wheel. I noticed that the color is coming off the leather, does anyone else have this issue, and if so, what can I do about it?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    oh the dreaded door panels. yikes. Yup, have that same problem on mine. Started on just the driver's door. Now all 4 of them have it to one extent or another. I just live with it because the dealer told me $1,000 to replace them (and that was when I just needed the fronts). I have read, however, that there are replacement panels available through Volvo that are of lesser quality and are much cheaper. I believe ~$150 each, IIRC. But those who have bought them have been very disappointed in the fact that they are nowhere near as nice as the originals.

    I also have several worn spots on my steering wheel. The only solution I know of is a complete replacement and, given the presence of an airbag, its something I wouldn't even touch myself and haven't bothered to price out because I know it will be expensive.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    willrwillr Member Posts: 1
    No steering wheel problem on my 98 S70 T5, but the door panels did bubble. 2 years out of warranty, but I was firm, and the dealership lobbied the Volvo rep successfully. Volvo replaced all 4 door panels for free! It seems to be up to the rep, and the service manager was quite surprised that he agreed to it, as the list price for each panel is about $400. Added benefit: CLEAN door panels - my S70 looks new again!
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    congrats, will. wish i could say the same. Oh well. Like I said, I'm just living with it as is. If I get adventurous, I've been thinking my solution would be some glue in a syringe and just squirt it in there and push it all back in place. I'm sure its a long shot, but it certainly wouldn't cost me much to find out.

    I did happen to notice, however, when someone posted some interior picks of their V70R (not the new R, but the older one that isn't really all that fast), that it had door panels that were different. On this car, there was stitching running across the panels right at the top and bottom of the indent. I would think this would hold up much better and those owners probably aren't experiencing this problem. I'm not sure if i can find that photo again (i believe it was on swedespeed). I would, however, love to know if those panels would work in our cars.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    It not an issue of the panel material its an issue of the glue holding the panel material to the door.
    Volvo does have a replacement kit available which is much cheaper than ordering all new door panels.

    As for the V70R, 2000 edition its panels will fit any 98-00 S70 or V70, assuming the color matches.
    The difference was the R panels were leather, the standard panels are vinyl.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    right, its the glue. that's why i was thinking of squirting more glue in there.

    Thanks for the info on the R. Hmmmm... real leather. I wonder if I could track a set down. Maybe start calling the junkyards.

    So am I remembering correctly, though, is there lines of stitching on those R panels as well? Basically running right through the areas that typically let loose on our S70s?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Yes, there is stitching, but I don't think that it's anything but decorative.
    The back side of those panels is smooth in order to allow the glue to bond.
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    eastcareastcar Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 S70 glt SE with 52K. I have been using dura blend oil. Any benefit to changing to a full synthetic?
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    volvo2volvo2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Volvo S70 GLT. Last night I was driving and the buttons on the lower right side of the radio went out (from the 3 button onwards)
    Was wondering if this is something I can take care of, i.e pull out the radio and fiddle with the wires? Does ayone else have electrical issues, can I take care of this myself or should I take it to the dealers? I know the radio has an alarm code and I don't want to disable it because I lost the code. Maybe the lights will just come back on, I know volvo has electrical quirks?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    the radio bulbs do have a tendency to die. you can replace them, but its going to involve taking it out (as far as I know, although i have yet to be adventurous enough to do this), so you will have to get the code from the dealer. They should be able to do so based on your VIN number.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    heck, even the dealers don't take the radios apart. If its a warranty issue they just install a new one.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    hehe.

    yeah, well, if I was Volvo corporate and I had the choice of just replacing the stereo or paying a dealer $95 a hour to change out lightbulbs, I'd opt for the replacement, too.

    ok, ok, i know corporate probably doesn't pay the dealer $95 an hour, but its still all about the numbers when it comes to warranty. Its also the reason why they will, many times, send out a replacement engine rather than authorize the dealer to rebuild the original.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Well, under warranty a replacement engine is a better deal anyway.

    The real reason is that no one at the dealer has the foggiest idea how to work on the stereo unit.
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    barryctbarryct Member Posts: 29
    I bought a 2000 S70 with 70,000 miles about a month ago. This is my first Volvo. It has AT. When I accelerate from a stop or pass on the highway it seems to shift hard when going from 4th to 3rd and back again. I took it to the dealer and did a test drive with a mechanic and he said it was normal. Does anyone else feel this when passing or driving a little harder than usual?
    Thanks
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    barryctbarryct Member Posts: 29
    My PW, moonroof and power mirrors stopped working one afternoon. Everything else worked fine to include the power locks. I thought I might have tripped the circuit breaker. After it sat for a couple of hours everything worked fine when I re-started. Is this a result of a CB that tripped or am I on the cusp of something serious in the future?
    Thanks
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    tonyotonyo Member Posts: 1
    I am getting sporadic electrical issues too. Today my turn signals are out. This happened about a month ago but before I could get to the dealer they started working again. I brought it in to the dealer and they said everything was good. I am trying to get it in for them to look at today. Sure like to hear if anybody else has had this problem
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    barrett78barrett78 Member Posts: 1
    The problems with the leather separation on the door panels has been brought up already, I know. But has anyone had any success with having them repaired, either yourself or by a third party? I haven't read anyones solution to the problem.

    My S70 also has the clicking problem while the wheel is turned sharply to the left. What have ya'll found is the cause/solution to this problem? Is it something which can be done cheaply (i.e. lubrication)? Is it a problem which needs immediate attention?

    I would appreciate any help on these matters.
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    jud_ejud_e Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2000 S-70 I bought new. It has 46,000 miles. The check engine light came on and it was running rough at low speeds. I took it in and the was told it needed a tune up. When I picked it up I was told that it didn't need a tune up but I may have a blown head gasket. It is leaking fluids internally and it missed firings. Has anyone had any problems like this? The warranty has expired. I take good care of the car and have frequent oil changes. I was told to bring it in again because they needed to perform more tests.
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    barryctbarryct Member Posts: 29
    No experience with this, but from my readings on the board I wonder if you might appeal to Volvo for help in this matter. I have read quite a few postings where folks were outside of their warranty but close and they were successful in getting Volvo to foot the bill on the repair. I would think a catastrophic failure like this with proof of scheduled maintenance and no modifications to the vehicle would be an ideal situation where you should go to first corporate Volvo or even your dealership for help.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    this might be the easy fix you are looking for:
    http://www.volvospeed.com/steerstops.htm

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Volvo has a repair kit for the door panels. Check with your dealer.
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    barryctbarryct Member Posts: 29
    Reading posts on other boards it has been brought to my attention that many S70 4 speed automatic owners are experiencing rough shifting when accelerating. Someone mentioned a software update (action code 593). My dealership know's nothing of action codes and I have checked the service bulletins to see if I can find anything applicable. Is anyone aware of a update to the software that governs the transmission? I have a 2000 S70 GLT.
    Thanks,
    Chris
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    tomleonetomleone Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 1998 S70 in Connecticut and have happily driven it for 6 years now. I am planning on moving to Los Angeles. Does anyone know if I need to get the emissions changed to meet California's low emission standards or does the '98 S70 already have low emissions?
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    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    98 S70 was a 50 state car.
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    dcvolvodrvrdcvolvodrvr Member Posts: 1
    did you figure it out??? I spent almost $1,000 before I did....it's the Mass Air Flow sensor. Should be about $400 to fix.
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    mesincitymesincity Member Posts: 13
    I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S THE SAME AS WE EXPERIENCED (WE HAVE A '99 T5)...BUT, THE WHEELS USED TO SEEM TO RUB INSIDE OUR WHEEL WELL DURING A FULL-LOCK TURN NO MATTER WHETHER LEFT OR RIGHT, NO CLICKING, BUT PERHAPS IT'S RELATED...AND IN REPLACING THE TIRES, WE WENT TO A LOWER PROFILE TIRE (205/50R16'S VS. THE FACTORY SPEC'D. 205/55R16'S) AND HAVEN'T HAD A PROBLEM SINCE!

    I WILL SAY, HOWEVER, AT FULL LOCK TO EITHER SIDE, THERE'S STILL A TINY BIT OF "RUB" FELT, BUT NOWHERE NEAR WHAT IT USED TO BE...

    OF COURSE, WITH THE STOCK TIRES, THE DEALER SAID ALL THE PREVIOUS "RUB" WAS NORMAL...BUT IT'S SO DIFFERENT RIGHT NOW!

    SIDE NOTE: SWITCHED OUT FROM THE STOCK MICHELINS TO FALKEN ZIEX ZE-512, IN THE 205/50R16 (CONSUMER REPORTS RATED #1 OVERALL) AND THEY SEEM TO BE DOING PRETTY WELL...WERE ABLE TO GET THEM AT $78/EACH
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    tomleonetomleone Member Posts: 3
    I am thinking of replacing the headlight bulbs with Luks Metal White H7 sold by IPD. I noticed these bulbs were 70-watt rating, compared to the stock 55-watt bulbs. Does anyone think this will cause any issues with the wiring melting or any electrical damage in general?
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    twalktwalk Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm looking at a certified S70 4Dr GLT Turbo Sedan with 55,000 miles on it. The dealer is asking $16,900. My first question is this a good deal and two how reliable are the S70 (Will I get a good 5 years out of the car)? Any opinions or experiences will help.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,949
    what year? what options? what color? what location? Well, ok, those last 2 details don't help me one bit, HOWEVER, i strongly suggest you take this question, with all of the additional details I just asked for, over to Terry on this board:
    "Real-World Trade-In Values"
    he can help you pin down a fair price.

    At first look, not knowing the year, just knowing its an S70 with 55K miles makes me think that is too much money. Is the certification from Volvo still only to 74K miles? But, again, Terry is the expert to ask.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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