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In any case, you may want to look through the reference and maintenance sections on volvospeed - i believe they have some radio and speaker instructions on there that may help you. AND/OR, try a place like crutchfield for head unit ideas.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks again for your help
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
When you pull that case apart ... *boing* ... the nylon toothed line unravels and shoots out of there. So then you pull the mast and nylon line out and stick in your new one. Then the almost impossible task ensues of trying to wind the line back up and hold it there while trying to get the plastic case back together. With some patience, you'll get it. By the way, in case you haven't found it, I got the mast off alloemautoparts.com. Pretty good place for alot of stock volvo stuff. The process is a pain, but the savings over buying a complete new power antenna is pretty significant (don't remember exactly, but I believe we're talking $75-$100).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
An independent Volvo shop might save you $100 or so, maybe a little more depending on their labor rate. Parts won't be any cheaper.
http://www.volvocars.us/_Tier2/Owners/Library.htm
Your 60k service should only involve new plugs, belts, air filter, and an oil change. What you need to do is find out what the DEALER's 60k service includes. They typically add many things that are not suggested by volvo. If you stick to the suggested maintenance in the manual, I don't see how it could possibly go over $400 (I'm estimating as follows: $30/plugs, $80/belts, $30/air filter, $50/oil change, 2 hours labor/$190 = $380 total .... and that's all pretty high, i mean, 2 hours labor would be ridiculous, but they COULD charge it, I suppose).
I would search for an independent mechanic with alot of volvo experience.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I also have have been hearing this sound coming from the front right tire. It happens when I go over bumps...it does not sound like the typical squeek you would expect from shocks... It is not a loud sound more like a low thumping..
Any ideas????
60K is a good time to do both, in my opinion, however. Not having a turbo may prevent you from having the tranny issues I have with my T5, which require I change the tranny fluid every 30K, but I think every 60k would be a good practice for even the non-turbo.
By the way, each of those is $79 at my independent volvo mechanic. So that would bring my highest estimate up to $540 total.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As for the hesitation, it is not turbo...I feel like it might be the fuel injectors..but I am just not sure...Like I said, the hesitation does not happen everytime I pull off from a red light, I thought it could be junk gas...but I ran that tank completely out and refilled it, it's still happening.
what grade gas do you run?
when you ran that tank of gas out, did you fill up at a different station?
you could need a fuel injection cleaning. The dealer did tell me they don't clean the injectors on these cars, though. I wonder if every dealer would say that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Everyone in the car repair business uses the same labor guides, which are broken into half hour increments.
Also, labor time doesn't necessarily mean real time.
Changing plugs may be billable at 1 hour, yet only take 15 minutes.
The only difference is in the hourly rate of each shop.
Dealers tend to have a higher hourly rate than an independent.
As for the gas, I did fill it up at a new station and I am using regular, which I always have.
I know that they recommend the higher test, but I have not done that.
I greatly dislike my dealer and have had difficulty finding anyone else that can do quality work on them...
we recently replaced our michelins with falken ziex ze-512's...they were actually rated fairly high in consumer reports either last year or the previous year...seemed pretty reasonable...i think we paid somewhere in the low-$80's or high-$70's for them...the other thing we did, which i haven't noticed as a post yet...was went witha lower profile tire vs. factory spec. and that's greatly reduced the wheel well "rubbing" or whatever that sound was, when the steering was turned (it seemed to happen more frequently when turned to the left) full-lock or close to...hope that helps
where are you located? we live in las vegas , nv and will be looking for a good non-dealer service shop in the near future (i.e. once the certified warranty is up)
i can be reached at:
mesincity@hotmail.com
anyone else have any thoughts on this, for that matter?
I'd try this first, but another possible culprit could be a bad fuel filter.
I don't know how handy/confident you are around tools, but the tuneup is an easy DIY job, especially with the non-turbo (no intercooler pipe to remove first.) If not, any competent mechanic should be able to do this for you; they really needn't be a Volvo specialist for something this simple. Good luck.
I just bought my first Volvo: a used 1998, S-70 GLT, w/ 90,000 miles on it. I am excited and (realistically) looking forward to owning it. I am a cautious optimist. I work as an overnight animal-and-house sitter in W. Pennsylvania and I drive to folk's homes, but mostly I drive for pleasure -- doing errands, etc.
I have a question for any/all: How can I best take care of this wonderful car? I want to keep it a long time. Please answer - or direct me to a good site.
I thank you in advance for your help. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
I see that there's been a recall for the "master light switch" in 10-04. I am not certain if this has been done.
Ellen K.
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The best way to take care of it? Just follow the owner's manual re: maintenance. I like running synthetic oil in my car (also a '98 S70 GLT, currently at 84,000 miles) to provide added protection for the turbo. Also, and this is critical: make sure the timing belt has been changed. If it hasn't, do so at your earliest opportunity.
Enjoy your first Volvo. This S70 is my second, and I think there'll be at least one Volvo in my garage for the foreseeable future.
Edmunds frowns upon providing links to other sites, but if you email me at the address in my profile I'll be glad to provide some good links for more info and advice.
You are kind to answer me. I am being given all the owner's manuals so I'll follow them and your other suggestions. I can see that the one recall item was not seen to, when I checked the car in Carfax. I'll take care of. I take possession on Wednesday, the 20th. I have tried to get to your profile through these forums and I can't seem to do it. You can send me your e-mail address to the address in my profile, if you have time.
Again, thanks
Ellen
but i have heard that switching to synthetic this late in a car's life is not a good idea. i have no idea why, but even my independent volvo mechanic suggested against it, so i'm taking his advice.
oh, and i just emailed you in case lancer doesn't get a chance.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you've done a full tuneup, including filter, cap, rotor, and wires, it could have a boost leak. Its supposedly very common on our vehicles that the rubber boost and vacuum hoses can crack/split with age. Do you have a boost guage. If so, the readings will tell you if this is your problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The reason synthetic oil is not recommended for older cars, as it has been explained to me, has to do with aged seals. Synthetic oil basically can "find" weak spots in older seals that will still hold back conventional oil, and you may get leaks that weren't there with conventional. In fact, a coworker found this to be the case with his '94 960. He switched back to conventional and his leak (at the rear main seal, no less) disappeared. I'm under the opinion that a turbo, due to the extreme heat and RPMs it operates under, could use all the protection it can get. I don't have any leak issues with either oil type, so I'm sticking with synthetic.
I need you to stop. Thanks.
At the same time, i know the fear is that folks will leave here for sites dedicated to their vehicles, but, yet, here folks like lancerfixer and myself are. We've been here for years, with thousands of posts to our names, yet we also visit sites dedicated to various vehicles. And I happen to know dozens of regulars around here who do the same thing. There is a time for general discussion and there is a time when you need the collective database of knowledge on one particular vehicle. There is no reason why the 2 philosophies can't coexist peacefully. yeah, yeah, i know this has been discussed round and round and I've been a part of those discussions time and again, but, oh well, i felt it needed to be said ... again. back to your regularly scheduled program.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
...IT'S A '99T5 BY THE WAY, AND WE BOUGHT IT WITH AROUND 60K MILES ON IT, WE'RE CURRENTLY UP AT AROUND 85K MILES...
...AND NOT TO JINX OURSELVES AS THE CPO WARRANTY RUNS OUT, BUT WE REALLY HAVEN'T EXPERIENCED THE SLEW OF PROBLEMS MANY PEOPLE POSTING HERE HAVE POINTED OUT...I JUST HOPE IT CONTINUES THAT WAY...
...HOWEVER, I AM IN AGREEMENT THAT VOLVO SERVICE COSTS (FOR THINGS AS SIMPLE AS THE STANDARD MAINTENANCE) SEEM ON THE RIDICULOUSLY HIGH SIDE...
BTW, ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH NON-FACTORY/VOLVO BRAKES THAT DON'T WEAR AS QUICKLY? I DRIVE IT PRETTY HARD...
If anyone wants to pursue this topic, it needs to be done by email, not here. You can reach our Community Manager at Sylvia AT edmunds.com or me at Pat AT edmunds.com.
We need to return to the subject - thanks!
Anyway, since this is ok, then here is a link for those looking for good info on repairs and maintenance of their S70s and 850s:
http://www.volvospeed.com/maintence.htm
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Anyone else???
When I first bought this car, three power door locks didn't work. The FR FL and RL.
They would lock on command, but wouldn't unlock.
Recently, the RR door lock died. I was wondering 1.) What could possibly have caused this, and 2.) How much would it cost to fix it?
Also, If I bought a remote off eBay or other website, would it work with the car (if reprogrammed)?
And, a pretty nonsensical question but: Would a new paint job be out of the question? How much would a "good" one cost? Where the paint is nice and shiny, and doesn't have the dullness associated with spraypaint?