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What you say makes perfect sense. It must be a section of the oil intake that is above the oil level. Luckily it should be covered by the extended warranty.
I've had my 2000 S80 since new and have had several problems with it. At 19K the power steering went out, dealer replaced broken hose clamp. At 34K a loud rattle/clunking noise started in the right front, dealer replaced upper rt strut and broken engine torque mount. At 38K the engine cooling fan had to be replaced. Several little things have broken along the way: gas cap cover, cup holder cover, running light clip, lots of headlight bulbs replaced. Now at 39K the power window on the back passenger door is broken in the down position in Arizona in August! These have all been covered under the warranty, but I have to wonder what will break when the warranty expires 9000 miles from now. I still have two years of payments to make and I don't want big repair bills on top of it. This is my first Volvo and I like the car but I'm concerned about reliability. Is this a lemon? Should I bail out before the warranty expires?
I bought new tires last month, subbing Bridgestone Turanza LS-H for the stock Michelin Pilots. I had this with the old tires, and thought tire replacement would do the trick. No such luck. Anybody have a clue what may be cuasing this to happen?
By the way, The Brigdestones are great. Much quieter and better handling than the Pilots.
The replacements from my friendly Volvo dealer last 3-6 months, and the ones from Walmart (half the price) last 6-12 months. In general, twist off the plastic cap, pull off the connector, undo the retainer clip, and withdraw the bulb. Hints . . .
(1) The connector takes a lot more force to remove than you might expect; wear work gloves.
(2) There is not much room for your fingers; I use long-nose pliers to undo the retainer clip.
(3) Use clean cotton or throw-away plactic gloves to handle the new bulb. Body oils will considerably reduce service life if you contact the glass with bare skin.
Has anybody any thoughts about this issue? I have a limited (1 month) warranty from the dealer, so I'd like to know what I can expect.
Thanks.
2) 30,000 mile maintenance - should I follow the mfg. recommendations on all items to be done or checked? If so, what would you expect the ballpark bill for this service to be?
3) Does Volvo reguire that Volvo dealers all follow some sort of pricing guidelines for work performed or can Volvo dealers charge whatever they choose?
Thanks.
At the point where you would expect it to shift, it hesitated and vibrated a little bit before it would go on the next higher gear.
I had an excellent dealer which is Lawrence Volvo at Walnut Creek, CA. My very knowledgeable and friendly service advisor Paolo was able to duplicate the problem right away. He called Volvo and Volvo suggested a solenoid replacement. He explained that it would be a waste of time to replace just the solenoid so Volvo agreed to a full tranmission replacement. He ordered the parts and got the work done in 2 days under warranty. Ever since the tranny was replaced, I'm at 70k miles now and I've never had the problem again. !
Good luck!
If you hit something, no its not covered.
If its a defect then its covered.
2 Do the 30K. Plug replacement, tire rotation, filter replacement all worthwhile.
3 There are 2 components to service pricing.
One is the parts cost, which is set by Volvo, plus the dealer markup. Second is the labor time for each operation. Also set by Volvo. Each dealer has there own hourly rate.
If Volvo says that it takes 1.0 hrs to replace a control arm then you pay 1 hrs labor @ the dealers rate.
Volvo doesn't get involved in what the dealers charge for service.
Thanks.
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It used to be called the Executive, and last year it was the 75th Anniversary model.
Basically, you get 2 TV's mounted in the headrests, a DVD player, an optional refigerator and a few other toys.
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The car is a 2001 S80 2.9 with 32,000 miles.
I'm in Ansbach -- near Nurnberg, just in case anyone knows anything specific. Thanks.
I think that have a very good dealer is critical. I don't think that I would drive Volvos without a dealer that I trusted who was responsive to my problems.
Went back to dealer who said that software upgrade per prior Volvo bulletin was appropriate fix. Paid $111 not covered by extended wwarranty. Drove out of dealer and condition seemed worse not better. Road test must have been moving my car form garage to lot. Got a refund of my $$. So back I go next week for further investigation of my problem. I noted that a CA poster to this site stated that his dealer actually convinced Vovlo to replace the whole trans not just the solenoid. I would like to avoid dealer's trial & error aproach to this type of repair. Any suggestions on speficic directions to the dealer to repair this problem I do have an extended warranty on my S80 since its a certified pre-owned.
Thanks again to larryp3 and others who previously posted on this topic.
Anyone have thoughts about steering issues in my year S80 - does this sound familiar? Many thanks.
edn
Considering an '04 S60 2.5T w/premium, sport, touring, climate packages, should be available in the low $30's but...
I found an original owner, locally serviced (both times, LOL), too good to be true cream puff S80 T6, loaded (aren't they all?), 17" rims with 16,000 true miles. It has a 100K mi bumper to bumper warranty, probably through Volvo as the owner is well off, imagine that. Owner outgrew it and got an XC90, it's his wifes car, immaculate is an understatement but I have yet to drive it. They're asking $29K but Edmunds and others show it should only be $21.6K private party. Even with the warranty it should top out at about $24K, right?
Obviously this car is a class above, if not several, from even a well dressed S60. The wifey would rather have a smaller one that is new, silly girl. We don't need a mountain charger as FL is pretty flat so I don't mind it might not handle the swoopies like a BMW 7-series. I'm looking for expert and consumer feedback on bargain pricing and reliability (which seems low risk with a super Volvo warranty), please help?
Desperately seeking an S-something,
Davant
I get this condition after the trans is warmed up and at running temp. It doesn't happen when tihe car is cold. I wonder if that is indicative of a solenoid problem or some other mechanical problem, or something that can be alleviated with a software upgrade. I have the warranty company rep coming to see the car next week at the dealer. If I need several software dowwnloads, can I press Volvo to cover it even though factory warranty expire?
If anyone has been down this road, I sure would appreciate any advice you can give me in dealing with the Svc. Mgr and the Warranty company rep. I am getting the the uncomfortable feeling that I may end up without a tangible diagnosis and be at mercy of of dealer to experiment with software with no guaranty of success.
Thanks for letting whine. Love the car, can't take the aggrevation of owning it.
The quandary:
'01 S-80 T-6, 17K mi, 100K V-warr, clim pkg, immaculate, roughly $24-26K,
or
'04 S-60 2.5T, Sport/Tour/Prem/Clim, w/incen $30K
I buy Volvo only because of the safety. For the safety reason alone, I would choose S80 over S60. This is just my opinion. Hope that helps.
I was considering switching to 16" inch wheels to save money on tires since I'll have to spend a whole bunch on new wheels.
Do 16" wheels come standard on the S80 and would switching sizes require any recalibration of the odometer, brakes, DSTC or whatever?
Does anyone have any recommendation for specific tires -- a balance between economics/safety being key, not necessarily looks or performance?
What about rims? Other than going through a dealer? Thanks.
If you have a T6 stay w/ the 17"s.
The wider footprint of the 17 deals with the engine better than the 16's do.
Have you priced the tires?
I find it hard to believe that you'll save alot by going to 16"s.
a. It can be done but the computer requires a software change to take the dew tire size into account
b. It voids the Volvo Certified Used car warranty. Don't know about original. Apparently the car is warranted only "as inspected" and their paperwork trail tells them what tire size is on there.
A nice solution at my dealer was a strip of 3/16th-inch black beading, extreme U-shaped, with contact cement on the deep inside. It is armor, it solves the problem, does not scratch other cars upon contact, and looks real good with the rest of the cars black vinyl molding-- maybe less so for '03 and on.
If somebody is irritated about these dings, hope this helps.
Considering stepping up to a new 80 versus a 60 as with the incentives it's not far from what I'd pay for a 60 without them. If the T-6 has an even bigger incentive, it's on the agenda. I've driven an '01 S-80 T-6; what a car, effortless acceleration. Anyone have an opinion on the S-80 2.9? Is 194 HP enough to make this 3,583 pound luxury car feel lively albeit not a turbo? Not looking for that whoosh head thrust that comes with the T-6, just don't want to have to push it too hard when passing or pulling into traffic.
Seems the average MSRP difference from the 2.9 to the T-6 is $3K. If Volvo would at least offer $5K back on the T-6 the gap would remain constant and there'd be one more T-6 owner, me!
We'll probably choose the 2.9 and plan on test driving soon. Any other owners or savvy Volo-ites out there?