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As an alternative you could ask the counter person to price a timing belt for the van and find out whether it takes a belt or chain that way.
Unless someone here has a '98 and belt/chain experience?
Steve, Host
Thanks
1. Hold down the trip and cancel buttons on the dashboard.
2. turn the key to the "ON" position wait 5sec.(do not start).
3. the mileage will display the trip distance... press the trip button once and a code will start to flash.
My van just flashed 55. On my old Dodge Intrepid this meant it was the end of the diagnostics and no error was found.
Is this the same as the old Dodge code? I doubt it , but if anyone has any ideas please post.
Thanks.
Aso, try another dealer or a brake shop that will look at them for free.
On some cars some years back,that clicking noise when brake was applied, meant it's time for new brake shoes. Not sure they have them do that now or not.
Anyone have any ideas of the problem.
Thanks
If it looks easy to do and you are up to it, I would buy a replacement (usually rebuilt) starter at one of the major parts places, like Autozone, Napa or Advance Auto Parts and change it out yourself. That way you are only out the fairly minor cost of the starter than a big bill at a repair shop.
If anyone has any idea of what the problem could be, please write me back and let me know. i would like to help her out as she spent all the money they had on this vehicle and now are afraid to take it anywhere, and I would also like to learn myself what could cause such behavior.
Thanks much in advance!
Kevin
pruett586@comcast.net
Steve, Host
just bought a used 02 Caravan with 90,000km's.. upgraded from our 97(or so i thought)...
It has a strange front end noise... took to my mechanic and replaced the struts, strut mounts.. was substantially better, but the 'bang' was still there when you went over 'washboard' bumps... seemed like the spider gear inside the rack and pinion was shot, so changed the rack and outer tierod..(all this and this van was just safetied less than 100km's ago)... then took it in for an alignment... this mechanic i know said he can hear the problem (also noticeable when you are in park and you rock the steering wheel side to side), with the stethoscope he told me you can hear it in the rack and in the struts and in the tierods!! The only thing that isn't new are the wheel bearings and ball joints... so he told me to take it back to my shop and take the plugs out of the balljoints and put in a grease nipple and grease the balljoints... well i did this, and now it seems WORSE!!.. yet there doesn't seem to be any 'play' in the ball joints...
could somebody help me???? Could it be ball joints??? I'm at a loss!!!
thanks...
I disconnected the negative lead on the battery as mentioned in other threads and this took care of the problems...or so I thought. I took the vehicle in for an electrical diagnostic and they couldn't find anything wrong but now the speedometer won't work. It's going back in for more diagnostics next week.
I'm concerned about the wipers as we live in Michigan and the climate is anything but kind right now.
I'll let you know what we find and please share any solutions you end up with.
Thanks.
dave
TIA!
Carolyn
Please let me know if you find an answer and I'll do the same for you!
Good luck!
I will let you know if I find out anything! :-)
The check engine light comes on sometimes to.
When I'm driving along the vehicle power will drop then come back up, check engine light may come on, check gauges light may also come on.
Originally I was told the EGR valve and O2 sensor needed to be replaced, this didn't help.
The I was told the Engine Control module needed to be replaced, I did this twice, and it is still doing the same thing. A bit frustrated, three departments and my van is still acting up. I need some advise.
After replaceing the engine control module, is there anything else i need to do to the module?
If any of these sound familiar, have them check the EVS module for a short. That apparently is my problem. The good news is they finally found the problem, the bad news is they say it is not under warranty. I plan to argue that point since my first battery died just about a year to the day that I bought the van. Don't know how much luck I will have. Does anyone know if these are hard to replace?
mfulper
Please anyone help.
http://tinyurl.com/4elhb
Steve, Host
http://tinyurl.com/4elhb
has some info on the plan including the following misleading statement:
Certified Maximum Care - Our "Best" Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle Protection Plan
Pre-Owned Maximum Care builds on the mechanical coverage of Added Care Plus with coverage of all components covered by Certified Added Care Plus PLUS coverage for virtually all additional mechanical components
“If It's Mechanical It's Covered!”
then after about a 30 minute tow back home, it starts & runs fine. i have a Chiltons book and the starter relay can be shut down by the PCM(computer)so has anybody had this problem or does anybody know what things can shut down the engine while running??? is it most likely a bad PCM???
the previous owner replaced the battery, so it is not the original battery which did cause some problems.
Thank You!
This occurred after we boosted the car following a dead battery. The battery had never give us trouble before and we noted that no lights had been left on or anything.
We have had occasional problems with left turn signal. It does not work for a while, then you turn off the car and turn it back on and it works.
If it is working when you start, it usually stays working.
I wonder if all things are related to some kind of common fault?
Did you get any resolution to your flashing light issue you posted in November.
SPR
The popping sound in the "cat" is fuel-air mixture igniting because the engine timing wasn't advanced by the computer.
Is the problem a bad computer? If not, what is it?
Thanks