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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • asieversasievers Posts: 2
    If anyone knows of the location for the hazard fuse for a 92 Plymouth voyager please clue me mothers husband simply cannot find it...Thank you!
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    The airbag warning light on my 2001 Caravan lights up intermittently. It seems that if I turn the steering wheel to the left it will light up. Has anyone had a similar problem? I am pretty sure that it has something to do with the wiring within the steering column. Should I let the dealer tackle this problem?
  • alrose2alrose2 Posts: 1
    #754 of 2583 Flashing climate control lights (holland11) by ketterd Aug 16, 2001 (8:23 pm)
    I just replaced the battery on my 1999 Town & Country and had the same problem you described. Four lights blinked on and off together. My resourceful wife was speaking to a Chrysler customer support person about an unrelated issue and happened to ask about the flashing lights. Somehow this person knew what to do:

    1) Start the vehicle and let it idle
    2) Turn the AC blower switch to its highest setting (all the way to the right)
    3) Turn the AC mode switch to the 'panel' setting (all the way to the left)
    4) Set the temperature level to cold for both the driver and passenger sides
    5) Depress the Rear Washer and Rear Wiper buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds
    6) The Rear Wiper, Rear Intermittent Wiper, A/C, and Recirculation buttons will now flash alternately (not in unison as before). Let the van continue to idle. One by one, the lights will stop blinking until only the Rear Wiper light blinks. When this happens, press the Rear Wiper button to end the sequence.

    My wife actually performed this voodoo ritual and it worked. So I don't get to take credit for my incredible knowledge of cars or for fixing the problem. But I do get to pass the information on. Good luck.

    Found this--Hope it helps! ----alr
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    It sounds like the clock spring issue, for which there were recalls, but I do not believe there was a recall for the 2001 model year.

    The clock spring in this case has nothing to do with a clock but is a spring which can fail in the steering column and cause problems like you are having.

    Our 1996 Caravan had a recall to replace the clock spring, though we had not been having problems.
  • mary107mary107 Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any experience with a Grand Voyager van shaking(slightly) when going between 35 and 50 mph? It stops once I reach 55mph and beyond.I'm fearful that it's the transmission. I have had 3 transmissions in this car. The last one a rebuild @47000 miles and I now have 88k miles so warranty is null and void.Could a snow tire produce this type of shaking? Thanks in advance.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Sounds like a tire or possibly a bent rim problem more than transmission. Are your tires evenly worn or is their signs of cupping? Uneven tire wear can have a variety of causes related to bad tires or wheel alignment issues. Snow tires are inherently more noisy than regular tires but shouldn't result in shaking. It also could be a wheel unbalance issue, though that many times seems to peak at about 60-65 MPH for most vehicles.
  • techmechtechmech Posts: 3
    According to

    1. Remove lower right instrument panel.
    2. Remove blower housing mounting screws.
    3. Allow assembly to drop and remove from vehicle.
    4. Reverse procedure to install.

    Good luck!
  • techmechtechmech Posts: 3
    Hazard fuse is fuse 1, located upper right. 20 Amp.
  • thahthah Posts: 1
    Having the same ignition problem with 97 Town & Country. Will not start after engine is warm... no sound from the starter... nothing else dims so figure it is not the battery. Has anyone resonded to your post?
  • glen5glen5 Posts: 1
    I would like some advice on replacing the front blower motor on my 2001 Chrysler T&C. Is this a task that an intermediate skilled DIY guy can handle? The service manual says that the instrument panel has to be removed as well as disconnecting the A/C lines and the heater hoses.

    Anyone attempted this chore? Any tips or lessons leaned to pass on?
  • akastuakastu Posts: 1
    99 Chrysler T & C has a fuel light and chime that come on for no apparent reason. Tank has a full tank of gas and the needle will go back and forth as the chime and indicator light comes on. Help! Thanks
  • cowboy5cowboy5 Posts: 1
    Reviewing the message board, I have seen discussions about automatic transmissions and related computer problems. Here is what my GV Minivan does:

    Since we purchased it, sometimes the windshield wipers will turn on when using the turning signal.

    About 2 years ago, we had a transmission seal replaced after we noticed small amount of puddling on the garage floor. I added trans fluid before we got it fixed to make sure it did not go dry.

    The transmission works fine now except when it has been cold out (below 32 degrees) and the vehicle has not run for a couple days. After we back it out of the garage under those conditions, we put it in drive and the transmission will not engage. It acts like it is in neutral. We gun the engine a couple times and finally it will go into gear. It may happen one more time if we have to stop within a short distance but will operate fine after that for the drive and the day.

    Two times after the above issue occurred, the transmission will not shift out of a low gear. We stop the vehicle, turn it off and back on. The transmission will then shift OK. I saw others had this problem on the message board.

    I suspect there may be a computer problem since the vehicle has a history of computer issues (wipers/turning signals). Can anyone provide in site or similar experiences?
  • I would first check the fluid level.
  • Is it normal that a quart of engine oil every 1500 miles has to be added every 1500 miles? My van is 99, 2.4L.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Either you are burning oil or have a leak. Check the ground after you park to see if there are any spots on the ground and make a mental note of them. (These spots might have been from another vechicle parked in the same spot). Then before you drive, check the ground again for fresh fluids that might have dripped from your vechicle. :D
  • No oil on the ground. Looks like my van burns oil. Is there a way to fix the oil burning problem?
  • paypaulpaypaul Posts: 1
    The instrument panel doesn't seem to have any backlights on the speedometer. Can you imagine having to drive at night and turning on the overhead lights every so often to see how fast you're going? The only lights on the instrument panel of this 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan are the little green LED lights below the dials. Is this normal? Did they expect us to have night vision like cats to see the dials with the limited illumination provided by the little green numbers? Does anybody know about this issue?

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Are you sure you don't have your instrument panel dimmer control turned way down? On my 1996 it is a thumb wheel next to the headlight switch.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    I'm not sure, but you might have to have the piston rings replaced to which could be pretty expensive. What you might try doing first, is going with a higher grade synthetic oil. Synthetic oils cost more per quart, but are better for your engine because it doesn't break down as fast as conventional oils. Especially if you do a lot of stop and go driving. Good Luck.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    For starters this is probably a nit, but here goes anyway.

    We have two Grand Caravans, both with the 3.8 liter mill, the first is a 1998 GC Sport, and the second is a 2003 GC ES. We have about 90K miles on the 1998, and each time as the van has approached each 30K interval a hot spot seems to have developed on at least one of the two front brake rotors. Said spot manifests itself as a pulsing when the brake is pressed, with the pulse getting worse with both speed and urgency of deceleration. Since 30K miles isn't too bad on a set of FWD disk brakes, I've never really worried too much about this, however, I still find it annoying to be throwing pads and rotors in the trash every couple of years that clearly have an easy 10K miles left on them.

    The plot thickens...

    As it turns out, our 2003 (which has over 40K miles on the clock) is nearing the end of the pad life on the OEM pads, so during my last trip to NAPA, I bought front pads and rotors for both vans. This morning as I was swapping the brakes on the 1998, I pulled the rotors out of the box for the 2003 and compared them to the new rotors for the 1998, and guess what, they are nearly identical (ie. same diameter, same bolt pattern). Okay, so what's the difference? Answer: the rotors for the 2003 are thicker by maybe as much as 5mm (ie. more meat in the swept area where the pads make contact with the rotor). Could that be the reason why the 2003 never developed a hot spot?

    On a whim I mounted the 2003 rotors on the 1998 and was able to get the caliper to clear the rotor, even with the new pads in place. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to actually test the setup, plus I assume that the engineers who designed this system made the rotors the thickness they are for a reason, I just wanted to see if I could get the thicker rotors to fit. Having said that, I'm thinking that if I still have the 1998 when it's ready for the 120K brake job, I might very well give the 2003 rotors a try, just for kicks.

    Anybody else tried this?

    Best Regards,
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    My 99 Sport is coming up to a brake job with about 74k miles. I would be interested in assessing this further. Any pictures Shipo?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I can make some real quick, what would you like to see? I'll be doing the brakes on our 2003 this weekend, and it would be no big deal to snap a few shots of whatever you need. ;)

    Best Regards,
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    I was interested in seeing the new 2003 rotor as it compared to the older 98/99 rotor. Thanks for your offer!

    PS I am working this weekend, otherwise I'd drive over to your house for a cool one while you changed the brakes!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152

    VCheng, I'm shocked that you would think that I of all people would imbibe whilst slaving away on a car under the hot sun. ;) Then again, "Maybe this once."

    Regarding the pics, I'll get a shot of them and post them in my Yahoo! gallery (I'll post the link after I post the pictures.

    Best Regards,
  • oilersoilers Posts: 1
    After about ten minutes from starting my 97 caravan sport, the engine sometimes dies. If I am stopped, I simply have to restart and no more problems usually occur -- no problem starting the car. If I am going more than 15 MPH, the car usually restarts after about three to five seconds. If I am in cruise control, the cruise light goes off and if I want to restart the system I must punch the acceperate button rather than the start button (this may or may not be related). This has been happening at random for over a year and my mechanic cannot find any indication on the electronic diagnosis system he uses. It can happen under any weather conditions. Any suggestions?
  • top3guntop3gun Posts: 4
    Hello. I have a '00 Caravan, 2.4L. 70k miles. I've owned tha van for only 6 months now. No problems til today, when it shook in the "lower gears". Took it to Aamoco and they said that it probably just needs a tune up.

    I'm about to do a tune up on it for the first time. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pvc, fuel filter. Any tips on which brand I should get for those parts and from where? Also, tips on how to perform it would be helpful. Thanks!
  • the van was bought new in july 1999 and it has 56k on it. Does the factory warranty cover such repair?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    The only fly in the ointment of your investigation into brake rotor design is that you are buying new NAPA aftermarket rotors, so are not looking at the OEM rotor design for either van, not the original OEM design.

    Our 1996 Caravan didn't have any brake work required until we were well past 70K miles. It did have a tiny bit of warped rotor vibration probably for the last 10-15K, but since I knew what it was and it was at fairly low levels, we lived with it. When we had a front brake job done and replaced the rotors as well, as corrosion was taking its toll on the rotors at that point. Rear drums are still original and we have about 81K on the van now.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "The only fly in the ointment of your investigation into brake rotor design is that you are buying new NAPA aftermarket rotors, so are not looking at the OEM rotor design for either van, not the original OEM design."

    Well sort of. The thing is that this is the first time that I've bought NAPA rotors, meaning that the set that I just took off the 1998 and the set that is still on the 2003 are OEM rotors. FWIW, the NAPA rotors appear to be an exact replacement for the OEM rotors. Having said that, I do find it interesting that for our 2003, NAPA only carries one rotor (UBP-880049 @ $27.45), however, for the 1998 they carry two rotors (UTS-4886646 @ $24.99 and UBP-86646 @ $56.99). I bought the more expensive UBP-86646 rotors for the 1998 hoping that they would resist the heat better than the OEM rotors.

    FWIW (again), I used to work for a NAPA jobber back when I was in college nearly 30 years ago, the "United Brake Parts" (which is what the "UBP" probably stands for) aftermarket rotors were always exact replacement parts for the OEM parts, at least from a dimensional perspective that is. What I don't know is if they have somehow improved the metallurgy of the rotors, hence their higher cost (higher than even buying OEM rotors directly from Dodge).

    Best Regards,
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    For longer front brake and rotor life, make sure rear drums are working properly and adjusted. Many fwd vehicles have non-working or need rear brakes adjusted. The auto slack adjusters frequently do not work properly when a vehicle has higher mileage.
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