The check engine light is also known as the $$ light - a problem can cost you a lot of money. However, there are several non-costly reasons why this light could come on, and loss of pressure in the fuel system is one. It was nice of the shop to tell you over the phone to check your gas cap rather than having you come in and charging you for that bit of info.
If you aren't having any other problems with the vehicle (e.g., weird noises or high engine temperature), then at least wait til you've refilled your gas tank to worry. It still might not be anything serious.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
My husband is replacing the motor mounts on our 2000 Gr Caravan Sport. Does ANYONE know of an easier way to get them out, other than beating them out with a hammer? Also, any ideas on how to get them back in?
Last year our "check engine" light came on. No problems before or during the time it was on. I checked the gas cap to make sure it was tight. Waited about three days and took the van in for an oil change and the check engine light. It cost us something like $90.00 for them to tell me the gas cap needed to be replace because the seal was worn out. The gas cap only cost like $12.00. I could have went to Murray's or Autozone and had the code checked for free.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I replaced the battery, cleaned the terminals, and checked the hazard flasher fuse (it was fine). I reassembled the light switch, instrument panel, and other dash parts. The problem persists, though.
I will next see if I can find the Instrument Control Ground location and clean it.
I see from another recent post that yet another person has this problem!
My 2001 caravan check eng. light is on. My Auto Zoneread the code which is P0601. The discription is -- Internal Control module fault. Does anybody know where to find trouble shooting info to chase down the underlying cause of this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris.
problems getting the car started after it`s been running for awhile i`ve replaced the starter thinking that was the problem but still when i drive it for at least 20 mins. i turn the car off and it dosen`t want to start again the temperture gauge is normal i don`t know what to do. If anyone can help me i would appreciated very much. HAPPY EASTER.
In the past six months or so I know of seven vehicles that had a fuel causing a "check engine" illumination, including two Toyatas and a Honda. This is a generic and common problem. After time the fuel cap internal venting valves become corroded and present a pressure loss or air leak that the vapor collection system detects.
Hi I was wondering if you could tell me where the hazard fuse location is on your vehicle. Thank you! My mom has a 92 Plymouth voyager and her husband simply cannot find where the location is..if anyone knows it would be much appreciated! Thanks again.
If anyone knows of the location for the hazard fuse for a 92 Plymouth voyager please clue me in...my mothers husband simply cannot find it...Thank you!
The airbag warning light on my 2001 Caravan lights up intermittently. It seems that if I turn the steering wheel to the left it will light up. Has anyone had a similar problem? I am pretty sure that it has something to do with the wiring within the steering column. Should I let the dealer tackle this problem?
#754 of 2583 Flashing climate control lights (holland11) by ketterd Aug 16, 2001 (8:23 pm) Reply I just replaced the battery on my 1999 Town & Country and had the same problem you described. Four lights blinked on and off together. My resourceful wife was speaking to a Chrysler customer support person about an unrelated issue and happened to ask about the flashing lights. Somehow this person knew what to do:
1) Start the vehicle and let it idle 2) Turn the AC blower switch to its highest setting (all the way to the right) 3) Turn the AC mode switch to the 'panel' setting (all the way to the left) 4) Set the temperature level to cold for both the driver and passenger sides 5) Depress the Rear Washer and Rear Wiper buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds 6) The Rear Wiper, Rear Intermittent Wiper, A/C, and Recirculation buttons will now flash alternately (not in unison as before). Let the van continue to idle. One by one, the lights will stop blinking until only the Rear Wiper light blinks. When this happens, press the Rear Wiper button to end the sequence.
My wife actually performed this voodoo ritual and it worked. So I don't get to take credit for my incredible knowledge of cars or for fixing the problem. But I do get to pass the information on. Good luck.
It sounds like the clock spring issue, for which there were recalls, but I do not believe there was a recall for the 2001 model year.
The clock spring in this case has nothing to do with a clock but is a spring which can fail in the steering column and cause problems like you are having.
Our 1996 Caravan had a recall to replace the clock spring, though we had not been having problems.
Has anyone had any experience with a Grand Voyager van shaking(slightly) when going between 35 and 50 mph? It stops once I reach 55mph and beyond.I'm fearful that it's the transmission. I have had 3 transmissions in this car. The last one a rebuild @47000 miles and I now have 88k miles so warranty is null and void.Could a snow tire produce this type of shaking? Thanks in advance.
Sounds like a tire or possibly a bent rim problem more than transmission. Are your tires evenly worn or is their signs of cupping? Uneven tire wear can have a variety of causes related to bad tires or wheel alignment issues. Snow tires are inherently more noisy than regular tires but shouldn't result in shaking. It also could be a wheel unbalance issue, though that many times seems to peak at about 60-65 MPH for most vehicles.
1. Remove lower right instrument panel. 2. Remove blower housing mounting screws. 3. Allow assembly to drop and remove from vehicle. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
Having the same ignition problem with 97 Town & Country. Will not start after engine is warm... no sound from the starter... nothing else dims so figure it is not the battery. Has anyone resonded to your post?
I would like some advice on replacing the front blower motor on my 2001 Chrysler T&C. Is this a task that an intermediate skilled DIY guy can handle? The service manual says that the instrument panel has to be removed as well as disconnecting the A/C lines and the heater hoses.
Anyone attempted this chore? Any tips or lessons leaned to pass on?
99 Chrysler T & C has a fuel light and chime that come on for no apparent reason. Tank has a full tank of gas and the needle will go back and forth as the chime and indicator light comes on. Help! Thanks
Reviewing the message board, I have seen discussions about automatic transmissions and related computer problems. Here is what my GV Minivan does:
Since we purchased it, sometimes the windshield wipers will turn on when using the turning signal.
About 2 years ago, we had a transmission seal replaced after we noticed small amount of puddling on the garage floor. I added trans fluid before we got it fixed to make sure it did not go dry.
The transmission works fine now except when it has been cold out (below 32 degrees) and the vehicle has not run for a couple days. After we back it out of the garage under those conditions, we put it in drive and the transmission will not engage. It acts like it is in neutral. We gun the engine a couple times and finally it will go into gear. It may happen one more time if we have to stop within a short distance but will operate fine after that for the drive and the day.
Two times after the above issue occurred, the transmission will not shift out of a low gear. We stop the vehicle, turn it off and back on. The transmission will then shift OK. I saw others had this problem on the message board.
I suspect there may be a computer problem since the vehicle has a history of computer issues (wipers/turning signals). Can anyone provide in site or similar experiences?
Either you are burning oil or have a leak. Check the ground after you park to see if there are any spots on the ground and make a mental note of them. (These spots might have been from another vechicle parked in the same spot). Then before you drive, check the ground again for fresh fluids that might have dripped from your vechicle.
The instrument panel doesn't seem to have any backlights on the speedometer. Can you imagine having to drive at night and turning on the overhead lights every so often to see how fast you're going? The only lights on the instrument panel of this 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan are the little green LED lights below the dials. Is this normal? Did they expect us to have night vision like cats to see the dials with the limited illumination provided by the little green numbers? Does anybody know about this issue?
I'm not sure, but you might have to have the piston rings replaced to which could be pretty expensive. What you might try doing first, is going with a higher grade synthetic oil. Synthetic oils cost more per quart, but are better for your engine because it doesn't break down as fast as conventional oils. Especially if you do a lot of stop and go driving. Good Luck.
For starters this is probably a nit, but here goes anyway.
We have two Grand Caravans, both with the 3.8 liter mill, the first is a 1998 GC Sport, and the second is a 2003 GC ES. We have about 90K miles on the 1998, and each time as the van has approached each 30K interval a hot spot seems to have developed on at least one of the two front brake rotors. Said spot manifests itself as a pulsing when the brake is pressed, with the pulse getting worse with both speed and urgency of deceleration. Since 30K miles isn't too bad on a set of FWD disk brakes, I've never really worried too much about this, however, I still find it annoying to be throwing pads and rotors in the trash every couple of years that clearly have an easy 10K miles left on them.
The plot thickens...
As it turns out, our 2003 (which has over 40K miles on the clock) is nearing the end of the pad life on the OEM pads, so during my last trip to NAPA, I bought front pads and rotors for both vans. This morning as I was swapping the brakes on the 1998, I pulled the rotors out of the box for the 2003 and compared them to the new rotors for the 1998, and guess what, they are nearly identical (ie. same diameter, same bolt pattern). Okay, so what's the difference? Answer: the rotors for the 2003 are thicker by maybe as much as 5mm (ie. more meat in the swept area where the pads make contact with the rotor). Could that be the reason why the 2003 never developed a hot spot?
On a whim I mounted the 2003 rotors on the 1998 and was able to get the caliper to clear the rotor, even with the new pads in place. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to actually test the setup, plus I assume that the engineers who designed this system made the rotors the thickness they are for a reason, I just wanted to see if I could get the thicker rotors to fit. Having said that, I'm thinking that if I still have the 1998 when it's ready for the 120K brake job, I might very well give the 2003 rotors a try, just for kicks.
I can make some real quick, what would you like to see? I'll be doing the brakes on our 2003 this weekend, and it would be no big deal to snap a few shots of whatever you need.
VCheng, I'm shocked that you would think that I of all people would imbibe whilst slaving away on a car under the hot sun. Then again, "Maybe this once."
Regarding the pics, I'll get a shot of them and post them in my Yahoo! gallery (I'll post the link after I post the pictures.
After about ten minutes from starting my 97 caravan sport, the engine sometimes dies. If I am stopped, I simply have to restart and no more problems usually occur -- no problem starting the car. If I am going more than 15 MPH, the car usually restarts after about three to five seconds. If I am in cruise control, the cruise light goes off and if I want to restart the system I must punch the acceperate button rather than the start button (this may or may not be related). This has been happening at random for over a year and my mechanic cannot find any indication on the electronic diagnosis system he uses. It can happen under any weather conditions. Any suggestions?
Hello. I have a '00 Caravan, 2.4L. 70k miles. I've owned tha van for only 6 months now. No problems til today, when it shook in the "lower gears". Took it to Aamoco and they said that it probably just needs a tune up.
I'm about to do a tune up on it for the first time. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pvc, fuel filter. Any tips on which brand I should get for those parts and from where? Also, tips on how to perform it would be helpful. Thanks!
The only fly in the ointment of your investigation into brake rotor design is that you are buying new NAPA aftermarket rotors, so are not looking at the OEM rotor design for either van, not the original OEM design.
Our 1996 Caravan didn't have any brake work required until we were well past 70K miles. It did have a tiny bit of warped rotor vibration probably for the last 10-15K, but since I knew what it was and it was at fairly low levels, we lived with it. When we had a front brake job done and replaced the rotors as well, as corrosion was taking its toll on the rotors at that point. Rear drums are still original and we have about 81K on the van now.
"The only fly in the ointment of your investigation into brake rotor design is that you are buying new NAPA aftermarket rotors, so are not looking at the OEM rotor design for either van, not the original OEM design."
Well sort of. The thing is that this is the first time that I've bought NAPA rotors, meaning that the set that I just took off the 1998 and the set that is still on the 2003 are OEM rotors. FWIW, the NAPA rotors appear to be an exact replacement for the OEM rotors. Having said that, I do find it interesting that for our 2003, NAPA only carries one rotor (UBP-880049 @ $27.45), however, for the 1998 they carry two rotors (UTS-4886646 @ $24.99 and UBP-86646 @ $56.99). I bought the more expensive UBP-86646 rotors for the 1998 hoping that they would resist the heat better than the OEM rotors.
FWIW (again), I used to work for a NAPA jobber back when I was in college nearly 30 years ago, the "United Brake Parts" (which is what the "UBP" probably stands for) aftermarket rotors were always exact replacement parts for the OEM parts, at least from a dimensional perspective that is. What I don't know is if they have somehow improved the metallurgy of the rotors, hence their higher cost (higher than even buying OEM rotors directly from Dodge).
For longer front brake and rotor life, make sure rear drums are working properly and adjusted. Many fwd vehicles have non-working or need rear brakes adjusted. The auto slack adjusters frequently do not work properly when a vehicle has higher mileage.
I need to do a tune up on my van too. Mine is 1 year older but has got less millage (56k). I have looked at the spark plugs and they seem to be difficult to get out. Please let us know how it went after you have done it. Thanks!
I think you'll find that most disc brake "vibration" problems today are more likely to be caused by hard spots on the rotor surface, or scuz build up, then actually being out of radial roundness from warping.
Also, in most cases regardless of where or who's name is on the box a replacement rotor comes in, the rotor will be a factory ( OEM ) blank. The casting numbers may be different, but on Chrysler's especially you will often find the Chrysler part number on them. In some cases there might be an aftermarket manufacturers number or identification, but in all likelihood the blank was cast by the OEM.
"I think you'll find that most disc brake "vibration" problems today are more likely to be caused by hard spots on the rotor surface, or scuz build up, then actually being out of radial roundness from warping."
Hmmm, "Hard Spots", we might be saying the same thing here, I believe I called them "Hot Spots", which is the term that the old gray beards that I learned to turn a wrench from used to use (of course that was something like 30 years ago). According to what I remember, the description of a hot spot is where a rotor was heated up enough to re-temper some of the metal so that it was either harder or softer than the surrounding metal. As such when the rotor surface with the hot/hard spot area slides past the pads, it has a different amount of friction in that one spot, hence the pulsing.
Regarding the "Scuz Build-up", I don't think that's too likely as I use semi-metallic pads.
Regarding being out of radial roundness or warping, while I admittedly have not mic-ed the rotors, I've seen no evidence of such a situation.
"Also, in most cases regardless of where or who's name is on the box a replacement rotor comes in, the rotor will be a factory ( OEM ) blank. The casting numbers may be different, but on Chrysler's especially you will often find the Chrysler part number on them. In some cases there might be an aftermarket manufacturers number or identification, but in all likelihood the blank was cast by the OEM."
Fair enough, however, the rotors that I took off of the 1998 were clearly stamped with the ChryCo pentagon, while the NAPA rotors that I replaced them with came from NAPA's United Brake Parts affiliate/subsidiary, and while my information is once again about 30 years old, back then at least, UBP was making their own replacement parts. Also, unlike the 2003, for which NAPA only lists one part number for the front rotors, they carry a "Tru-Stop" brand, which if I'm not mistaken is made in China. Additionally, if the OEM was casting rotors for other non-ChryCo distribution channels, would they really cast in different part numbers on the back of the hat? I ask because while I didn't check the rotors that I put on the other day, I did just check the set for our 2003, and there are clearly non-ChryCo identifiers cast into the back of the hat. It will be interesting to see if said casted identifiers match up with the rotors that I take off this weekend.
Thanks Chuck. I don't think it is a "bedding" issue as I have "bedded" pads on dozens of cars including my 328i and my 530i. I also don't think that this is a bedding issue since the problem doesn't start to manifest itself until about 20,000-25,000 miles after the brake job. Thanks just the same. ;-)
I've got a 99 plymouth minivan that had a similar problem, as well as a 1990 dodge dynasty that did the same thing. What is happening is the computer is detecting a transmission error and going into "limp in" mode. What this basically means is that the transmission shifts into 2nd gear and stays there. The transmission is electronically controlled transmission, controlled by 2 shift sensors. I'm not exactly sure where they're located, but if you change them, it probably will eliminate the problem. The shift sensors run about $25 - $30 a piece.
I had the same thing I found when I took the assembly off that the wire clip that hooks into the circuit board was burnt on one of the wires that in case you have to get a new clip and a new assembly
The first four shots titled "RotorDetail01-RotorDetail04" show various angles of the new 1998 rotor mounted with the new 2003 rotor resting on the ground leaning on the 1998. The last two shots titled "RotorDetail05-RotorDetail06" show two slightly different angles of the new 2003 rotor laying flush with a used 1998 rotor.
One thing that I didn't notice until looking at these pictures is the difference in the hat height. That alone would preclude using the 2003 rotors on an older van because the calipers wouldn't be properly centered, and might possibly rub on the inside of the wheel.
Comments
If you aren't having any other problems with the vehicle (e.g., weird noises or high engine temperature), then at least wait til you've refilled your gas tank to worry. It still might not be anything serious.
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I replaced the battery, cleaned the terminals, and checked the hazard flasher fuse (it was fine). I reassembled the light switch, instrument panel, and other dash parts. The problem persists, though.
I will next see if I can find the Instrument Control Ground location and clean it.
I see from another recent post that yet another person has this problem!
I'll post as I get any more information.
shadetree_bill
Best regards,
Dusty
Reply
I just replaced the battery on my 1999 Town & Country and had the same problem you described. Four lights blinked on and off together. My resourceful wife was speaking to a Chrysler customer support person about an unrelated issue and happened to ask about the flashing lights. Somehow this person knew what to do:
1) Start the vehicle and let it idle
2) Turn the AC blower switch to its highest setting (all the way to the right)
3) Turn the AC mode switch to the 'panel' setting (all the way to the left)
4) Set the temperature level to cold for both the driver and passenger sides
5) Depress the Rear Washer and Rear Wiper buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds
6) The Rear Wiper, Rear Intermittent Wiper, A/C, and Recirculation buttons will now flash alternately (not in unison as before). Let the van continue to idle. One by one, the lights will stop blinking until only the Rear Wiper light blinks. When this happens, press the Rear Wiper button to end the sequence.
My wife actually performed this voodoo ritual and it worked. So I don't get to take credit for my incredible knowledge of cars or for fixing the problem. But I do get to pass the information on. Good luck.
Found this--Hope it helps! ----alr
The clock spring in this case has nothing to do with a clock but is a spring which can fail in the steering column and cause problems like you are having.
Our 1996 Caravan had a recall to replace the clock spring, though we had not been having problems.
1. Remove lower right instrument panel.
2. Remove blower housing mounting screws.
3. Allow assembly to drop and remove from vehicle.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Good luck!
Anyone attempted this chore? Any tips or lessons leaned to pass on?
Since we purchased it, sometimes the windshield wipers will turn on when using the turning signal.
About 2 years ago, we had a transmission seal replaced after we noticed small amount of puddling on the garage floor. I added trans fluid before we got it fixed to make sure it did not go dry.
The transmission works fine now except when it has been cold out (below 32 degrees) and the vehicle has not run for a couple days. After we back it out of the garage under those conditions, we put it in drive and the transmission will not engage. It acts like it is in neutral. We gun the engine a couple times and finally it will go into gear. It may happen one more time if we have to stop within a short distance but will operate fine after that for the drive and the day.
Two times after the above issue occurred, the transmission will not shift out of a low gear. We stop the vehicle, turn it off and back on. The transmission will then shift OK. I saw others had this problem on the message board.
I suspect there may be a computer problem since the vehicle has a history of computer issues (wipers/turning signals). Can anyone provide in site or similar experiences?
Paul
We have two Grand Caravans, both with the 3.8 liter mill, the first is a 1998 GC Sport, and the second is a 2003 GC ES. We have about 90K miles on the 1998, and each time as the van has approached each 30K interval a hot spot seems to have developed on at least one of the two front brake rotors. Said spot manifests itself as a pulsing when the brake is pressed, with the pulse getting worse with both speed and urgency of deceleration. Since 30K miles isn't too bad on a set of FWD disk brakes, I've never really worried too much about this, however, I still find it annoying to be throwing pads and rotors in the trash every couple of years that clearly have an easy 10K miles left on them.
The plot thickens...
As it turns out, our 2003 (which has over 40K miles on the clock) is nearing the end of the pad life on the OEM pads, so during my last trip to NAPA, I bought front pads and rotors for both vans. This morning as I was swapping the brakes on the 1998, I pulled the rotors out of the box for the 2003 and compared them to the new rotors for the 1998, and guess what, they are nearly identical (ie. same diameter, same bolt pattern). Okay, so what's the difference? Answer: the rotors for the 2003 are thicker by maybe as much as 5mm (ie. more meat in the swept area where the pads make contact with the rotor). Could that be the reason why the 2003 never developed a hot spot?
On a whim I mounted the 2003 rotors on the 1998 and was able to get the caliper to clear the rotor, even with the new pads in place. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to actually test the setup, plus I assume that the engineers who designed this system made the rotors the thickness they are for a reason, I just wanted to see if I could get the thicker rotors to fit. Having said that, I'm thinking that if I still have the 1998 when it's ready for the 120K brake job, I might very well give the 2003 rotors a try, just for kicks.
Anybody else tried this?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
PS I am working this weekend, otherwise I'd drive over to your house for a cool one while you changed the brakes!
VCheng, I'm shocked that you would think that I of all people would imbibe whilst slaving away on a car under the hot sun.
Regarding the pics, I'll get a shot of them and post them in my Yahoo! gallery (I'll post the link after I post the pictures.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm about to do a tune up on it for the first time. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pvc, fuel filter. Any tips on which brand I should get for those parts and from where? Also, tips on how to perform it would be helpful. Thanks!
Our 1996 Caravan didn't have any brake work required until we were well past 70K miles. It did have a tiny bit of warped rotor vibration probably for the last 10-15K, but since I knew what it was and it was at fairly low levels, we lived with it. When we had a front brake job done and replaced the rotors as well, as corrosion was taking its toll on the rotors at that point. Rear drums are still original and we have about 81K on the van now.
Well sort of. The thing is that this is the first time that I've bought NAPA rotors, meaning that the set that I just took off the 1998 and the set that is still on the 2003 are OEM rotors. FWIW, the NAPA rotors appear to be an exact replacement for the OEM rotors. Having said that, I do find it interesting that for our 2003, NAPA only carries one rotor (UBP-880049 @ $27.45), however, for the 1998 they carry two rotors (UTS-4886646 @ $24.99 and UBP-86646 @ $56.99). I bought the more expensive UBP-86646 rotors for the 1998 hoping that they would resist the heat better than the OEM rotors.
FWIW (again), I used to work for a NAPA jobber back when I was in college nearly 30 years ago, the "United Brake Parts" (which is what the "UBP" probably stands for) aftermarket rotors were always exact replacement parts for the OEM parts, at least from a dimensional perspective that is. What I don't know is if they have somehow improved the metallurgy of the rotors, hence their higher cost (higher than even buying OEM rotors directly from Dodge).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Also, in most cases regardless of where or who's name is on the box a replacement rotor comes in, the rotor will be a factory ( OEM ) blank. The casting numbers may be different, but on Chrysler's especially you will often find the Chrysler part number on them. In some cases there might be an aftermarket manufacturers number or identification, but in all likelihood the blank was cast by the OEM.
Regards,
Dusty
Hmmm, "Hard Spots", we might be saying the same thing here, I believe I called them "Hot Spots", which is the term that the old gray beards that I learned to turn a wrench from used to use (of course that was something like 30 years ago). According to what I remember, the description of a hot spot is where a rotor was heated up enough to re-temper some of the metal so that it was either harder or softer than the surrounding metal. As such when the rotor surface with the hot/hard spot area slides past the pads, it has a different amount of friction in that one spot, hence the pulsing.
Regarding the "Scuz Build-up", I don't think that's too likely as I use semi-metallic pads.
Regarding being out of radial roundness or warping, while I admittedly have not mic-ed the rotors, I've seen no evidence of such a situation.
"Also, in most cases regardless of where or who's name is on the box a replacement rotor comes in, the rotor will be a factory ( OEM ) blank. The casting numbers may be different, but on Chrysler's especially you will often find the Chrysler part number on them. In some cases there might be an aftermarket manufacturers number or identification, but in all likelihood the blank was cast by the OEM."
Fair enough, however, the rotors that I took off of the 1998 were clearly stamped with the ChryCo pentagon, while the NAPA rotors that I replaced them with came from NAPA's United Brake Parts affiliate/subsidiary, and while my information is once again about 30 years old, back then at least, UBP was making their own replacement parts. Also, unlike the 2003, for which NAPA only lists one part number for the front rotors, they carry a "Tru-Stop" brand, which if I'm not mistaken is made in China. Additionally, if the OEM was casting rotors for other non-ChryCo distribution channels, would they really cast in different part numbers on the back of the hat? I ask because while I didn't check the rotors that I put on the other day, I did just check the set for our 2003, and there are clearly non-ChryCo identifiers cast into the back of the hat. It will be interesting to see if said casted identifiers match up with the rotors that I take off this weekend.
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Best Regards,
Shipo
Good luck..
http://photos.yahoo.com/shipo
The first four shots titled "RotorDetail01-RotorDetail04" show various angles of the new 1998 rotor mounted with the new 2003 rotor resting on the ground leaning on the 1998. The last two shots titled "RotorDetail05-RotorDetail06" show two slightly different angles of the new 2003 rotor laying flush with a used 1998 rotor.
One thing that I didn't notice until looking at these pictures is the difference in the hat height. That alone would preclude using the 2003 rotors on an older van because the calipers wouldn't be properly centered, and might possibly rub on the inside of the wheel.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo