Audi A6

idkillarmy · May 2001

Hey mark how much is it? I heard about a $1000.00. Where is the best place to get them from?

msunny29 · May 2001

I'm looking at a Audi A6 2.7T 2000 pretty much loaded, with 24000 miles. Got the dealer down to $32,000. Is this a good deal? Thanks

bandit22 · May 2001

I bought a 00 2.7t ming with every option under the sun in it fot 34 with 17k on the odo. dealer threw in ext. war also. Love the car. Go for it man! You want it go get it!

kirby2010 · May 2001

Regarding the comments above from due diligence (#1198) - what savvy car buyer doesn't know that every dealership lowers prices at the end of the model year?? Especially if the next model year has changes or upgrades??? Further, newspaper advertisements typically quote the base model and 10,000 miles. I shopped three dealers and didn't see (wasn't looking for) the base A6 2.7T. Although I seriously considered leasing I bought primarily because I plan to drive this car a lot. $620 for a mid year lease - I'm sure it's well equipped (leather, sunroof, etc.), probably 12,000 or more miles, is as due diligence said in the message above, a good deal at the time.

markcinti3 · May 2001

Writing this from in-laws PC so sign on name is different. I read that the Xenons were (installed, I believe) $1,600. The high cost has to do with the fact that the Xenons take a lot of juice to "ignite" and the non-Xenon cars don't have the power to make this happen. So it is an extensive modification. If you can find a co-operative dealer, that would be my choice. You can search www.dogpile.com and / or go to any one of the Audi sites, e.g., Audi World, and they can direct you.

Perhaps a higher intesity halogen blue light "kit" would be a less costly and risky choice -- true not as good a light, but still better than factory. Do you plan to keep this car until the wheels turn square? It seems so expensive a route to go, even for a super nice A8, as it is, after all a 1997.

markcincinnat (on vacation as #3)

markcinti3 · May 2001

Under the id markcincinnati, I related a few days ago the work being performed on my 2001 A6 4.2 w/8000 miles on it.

#1 New Yokohoma AVS db 255 x 40 x 17 tires
#2 All-wheel alignment
#3 New front brake rotors

All work done at the dealer.

Drove the car 30 miles the first day -- first impression: These tires are incredible. I notice no difference in ride quality, high speed (85mph+) stability or ability to perform well (I took it on my favorite twisty road and there was no squirm, squeal or other issue (and the ESP light did not come on). I hit the twisty road after 25 miles only on the tires -- I assume they improve after 150 miles or so.

These tires are virtually silent! The factory Pirelli P6000's (same size) roared like snow tires. Speaking of snow, these tires are classified as All-Season Ultra High Performance (Z rated). I will assume some improvement during the Cincinnati winters (which are generally fairly mild, snow/ice/slush-wise). Can't really comment this time of year. And, I will also assume that some loss of performance must be there (compared to Summer only tires). As I do not "race" this car, I assume that I will notice virtually no difference between these tires and my "faves" -- the Dunlop SP9000's (which came on my 2000 A6 4.2 non-sport package).

Now, on to the brakes -- much better, but still just passable.

Audi has been criticized -- in Autoweek Magazine, or example -- for having great brakes (short and controlled stopping distance) that warp easily.

I'll say.

Saturday morning (about 30+ miles on new brakes), I left Cincinnati for Pittsburgh via the interstates (I-71, I-70). Medium traffic, "ambient speeds" of 60 - 80 mph. Heading toward Columbus, Ohio, set cruise at 75mph -- didn't need to touch the brakes much. Perhaps 55 miles into the trip, someone passes on the right, zips in front of me and finds that the reason I was not going any faster was that the traffic ahead was congested and of course slams on his brakes causing me to "poke" my brakes for about 2 or 3 seconds -- not a panic stop in any way.

The brakes purred -- a very light shudder.

I thought "already?"

Theses new rotors are better, but still not good.

I now have 300 miles on the cars new rotors and I am not too pleased.

hockeyguy1 · May 2001

Test drove both. After hearing all the horror stories about Audi repair problems, went with the Saab--the most reliable in its class, and the safest car ever tested in recent Eoropean crash tests.
It's amazing how many people don't know about this great car. The A6 looks and drives great, but everyone I know has problems with it...don't regret my decision a bit!

markcinti3 · May 2001

In spite of my posts re brake rotors -- I have no horror stories to relate regarding Audis. My three friends who have owned between them 4 Saabs have sworn off them claiming that they were great cars but each of the four Saabs had "horror" stories -- from electrical to transmissions to repair and maintenance costs that were "breathtakingly" high. The turbos were the worst -- and three of the four turbos had major problems and fit and finish issues galore.

I have seen a relatively few "horror stories" pertaining to Audis on the three or four message boards I either monitor or contribute to.

Everything mechanical breaks -- and although I have read the endless posts regarding reliability of Hondas and Toyotas, I find them unrewarding to drive (please no arguments, I know this is 100% personal and I do understand that there are people who cannot find any European car "worth it.")

The Audis, BMWs, Mercedes, Saabs, Volvos and VWs whatever their reputed "horror story" quotient may be are far far more engaging to drive (than Hondas and Toyotas no matter how upmarket they push them) -- and as the Saab is in this "European" class of cars, I accept hockeyguy1's decision to purchase a Saab (at least compared to the Honda or Toyota). However, with no disparaging of the current crop of Saabs intended, I do think that both Saabs and Audis are overall in the top quartile of reliability and in the top tenth of "engaging and fun" to drive category.

The Saab would have more appeal -- to me -- if they would start down the path of All Wheel Drive instead of sticking with Front Wheel Drive (in the same sense that BMW now has dipped its tires into this area and to a greater extent so have Volvo and VW.) The "Audi Advantage" is more than a warranty program, today -- at least until the other European cars get some all-wheel-drive experience under their tires -- it is Audi Advantage = quattro.

duediligence · May 2001

On my recently purchased A6 2.7T, I have auto-dimming rear view and exterior mirrors. I am used to having the auto-dimming feature on the rear view mirror and would consider it standard for any luxury car. However, after a few near misses at night with cars trailing me about one car length behind in the lane to my right, I am considering returning to the dealer and having the exterior mirrors replaced with standard exterior mirrors.

Has anyone else experienced this? Or, do I just need to get adjusted to driving a car a little lower/quicker than my prior car, a Mercedes S310.

marsha7 · May 2001

I don't think with the recent "situation" in Cinci that anybody will do much of ANY kind of driving, unless you have a Hummer with machine guns, outiftted kinda like the Rat Patrol...time to move back to the country and leave the city to those who want to burn it down...:)

nosho · May 2001

I doubt it's the auto-dimming feature. I find
that the rear/side view mirrors don't cover the
same area as other cars I've driven (Taurus &
Lincoln LS) - day or night.... I've always looked
over my shoulder rather than completely depend on
the mirrors. I find it especially necessary with
the A6.

timcar · May 2001

I don't have any difficulty with the auto dimming of the side-view mirrors. However, I have had problems picking up cars in them that approached from the rear on both the driver and passenger sides during DAYLIGHT. Despite the car's overall excellent sight lines, I can loose traffic behind me in both mirrors. I think it might be the shape. I've made a point of always head-checking before changing lanes or merging

markcinti3 · May 2001

We live about 20 miles northeast of downtown Cincinnati -- and although there is some truth to the post by marsha7, there has also been some "sensationalism" going on by the broadcast and cable news outlets. It was bad, no doubt, it was uncalled for also -- and as our local media is uncovering, a significant portion of the "rioters" were not even from the area. One "gentelman" had just been released from prison within the recent past and decided to come to the downtown area of the city for the express purpose of "rioting."

The concerns of all citizens regarding police violence and so-called profiling should be addressed. But the real problem regarding this incident seems to be the tradgedy that those who actually live in the affected area of the city are not -- for the most part -- the ones who participated in the trashing of their businesses and residences.

Anyway, this is an Audi Message board -- we still have a thriving city with lots of places to drive.

gjnr · May 2001

I am finally within weeks of purchasing a 2-year pre-owned car and have my eyes set on a 98-99 Audi A6 Quattro versus a 98-99 Lexus GS 300. I test drove them both. The GS 300 is more powerful and has a better reliability & depreciation rating than the A6; the A6 gets my vote for better looks. Is the 98-99 A6 really that bad reliability wise? And can anyone tell me why I should go with the A6 over the GS 300?

markcincinnati · May 2001

quattro

timcar · May 2001

Noticed you just put Yoko AVS dB's on your 4.2. I would be very interested in learning how they wear as they accumulate miles. I think I'm drawn to the same combination of virtues you mentioned as the reason for your choice when my OEM Conti's go. Not to be negative, but I read one post on AW where someone reported cupping after 6K or 8K. Hope it's a one off, or caused by something else, but I'd like to hear what you experience.

traderalex1 · May 2001

Interesting to read the problems some people have faced with the auto dimming mirrors. My 2000 A6 Avant does not have them, and I wish I did have them. I find the glare produced by the side mirrors during night time to be intensely painful.
I have to adjust them downwards just to avoid the problem. Glare is reduced from the rearview, simply by keeping the rear window sun screen deployed. Has anybody ever heard of of getting
the auto dimming mirrors installed, post-factory?
My local dealer did not seem to think it possible, but I would suspect that the wiring is probably in place. Any thoughts appreciated.
Regarding DueDilliegence' point, I doubt you need to change out the side mirrors, if you want just to disable the dimming feature. Probably all that is needed to do is open the mirror housing, and diconnect the leads that are attached to the back of each mirror. However it might be done, it should be a relatively easy task.

jscatena · May 2001

Turning in my wife 2K Maxima next month. I've narrowed down my search to the Infiniti I30t and the Audi A6.

Can someone tell me what a good monthly lease payment for a 2.7T fairly well equiped (in the $45,000 retail range.) I'm pen for 36, 39 or 48 month lease and can put zero or up to $3,000.00 down.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Jim in Michigan

automophile · May 2001

Some leasing tips -
1) Don't put anything down on a lease if you can - this is a false economy if you have any other debts. The lease interest rate is probably about 7-8%, so if you put that $3000 towards more costly credit cards, you will save a LOT on interest during the time of the lease (if you don't charge up the cards again!)
2) Don't pay Acquisition or Disposition fees - These are just bank and dealer ways to gouge a few hundred more dollars out of you. If they won't drop them willingly, walk. They will find "approval" to drop them quick enough.
3) Settle on a price for the car before you tell them if you are leasing or buying to be sure you get a fair quote. After you have arrived at the price, tell them they have a deal IF they will "Throw In" a few little add-ons - Gold package, mats, mudguards, nose mask, etc. All these little things are very high markup items for the dealer, and don't cost them much.
4) Don't let them put your DMV fees, etc. into the CAP COST of the car - otherwise you pay interest on these yearly charges for the life of the lease.
5) Be sure to check the actual "Money Factor" for the lease. This is the interest rate you are paying. Multiply the MF x 1200 to get the equivalent interest rate. I have seen dealers give a great price quote, and then charge a huge interest to make up the profit on financing. If the interest rate is higher than 7-8% and you have good credit, ask them why. My last dealer actually let me look at his computer to see that I was getting the lowest MF possible.

Good Luck!

msunny29 · May 2001

I just bought a 2000 A6 2.7 Quattro with 24,000 miles on it. I drive about 25-30k miles a year. I got a quote from warrantybynet for 6yr 100k for $1239. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks

timcar · May 2001

I don't know of any experiences with that company. It sounds like about the right price, if it's a good warranty. And while it's been awhile since I looked into it, I learned that one of the most important aspects is to assure that the warranty is an "Exclusion Warranty." I.e., it should specify items that are excluded, not those included. And it should exclude very little, things like pads, wiper blades, air filters, maybe rotors, etc. It's also supposed to help if a major liability company, such as an insurance company backs the company.

markcincinnati · May 2001

The combination of the long weekend and "life" in general has allowed me to accumulate over 1,000 miles on the new Yokohama AVS db tires.

The following comments are not -- unless noted -- a comparison to the factory Pirelli P6000's they are a comparison to the Yokohama tires with no miles on them and 1000 miles.

Handling has improved -- I have a "test corner" on a generally deserted road in suburban Cincinati -- it says "15 MPH" -- Ever since I had my A8 modified with an S8 suspension, I have used 45 MPH as my "test speed." With about 30 miles on the AVS tires, I could detect some understeer as I "plowed" through the turn. Now with 1,000 miles on the tires no understeer, no plowing and I can "power out of the corner" in second gear with no squirm no scuff and no problem.

Noise has actually decreased a bit -- very very quiet tires. The Pirelli's were very noisy and were no better in my "test corner."

Air pressure -- has held "perfectly."

It has rained a lot here in SW Ohio but I really had no complaints in this regard with the Pirellis -- the Yokohama AVS db in spite of their classification of All Season Ultra High Performance don't seem better or worse on a wet interstate highway. But boy is my car quiet now.

The tread life rating of the Pirellis was 180 and the Yokohamas rating is 320 -- I assume the Yokohama's will last longer, as this has been my previous experience. Generally I multiply the rating by 100 and that has usually turned out to be the life of the tread before the tread wear indicators are seen and heard (i.e., 180 would translate to 18,000 miles tire life). If this is true with the Yokohama's. . . hmmm, I am 7 lease payments into a 30 month lease, with 8,000 on the odometer (approaching 9,000 after this weekend). . .well the AVS's might "go the distance."

Remember, I had a four wheel alignment (Audi Advantage) at the same time the tires were mounted and balanced at the Audi Dealer. I am expecting the maximum available out of these tires in performance, handling, milage and noise -- will keep y'all posted.

On a related topic:

It seems to me that with Computerized Production Software (that Audi MUST use) they could allow customers and/or dealers to order a car and specify the tires (from their vendors) and wheels, not just the wheels.

Here in southern Ohio, an Ultra High Performance Tire (such as the Yoko AVS dbs) that is also All Season should be an option as should a Summer only tire for those who will have an extra set of wheels/tires for the winter.

Audi usually puts All Season tires on their cars IF the customer does not order the sport package. This seems presumptious as most of the people I know do not change their tires and wheels for Southern Ohio Winters -- and most people here in Southern Ohio who order quattros might argue that a Summer Ultra or Maximum Performance tire would be just fine. Yet some people, like my wife, would rather have the highest performance all season tire available -- funny, she has Dunlop SP9000s on her 2001 225HP TT coupe and I have the Yokohama's. This time we're backwards. I'm sure I'll hear about this winter.

The New Brakes are still a bit of a let down, they purr a little above 65 MPH -- and this is for routine application of the brake pedal. My wife's TT brakes are phenomenal, so I know that Audi can put good stoppers on their cars -- dealer tells me this is a common problem with 2.7T's, S4's and 4.2's (both A6 and A8) -- says the S8 brakes, however are awesome -- where do I sign up for them?

amarchan · May 2001

I agree with automophile about putting no money down. I'm not sure his conversion factor for the lease factor is correct or not. Audi's rate (VW of North America) at the end of April was .00335, which translates to an interest around 4% (I thought the conversion factor was 2400, which would make this around 8%). This is not the best factor around, but Audi allows a higher residual value at the end of the lease than independent brokers or even banks, so the monthly rate is not really that different - although you can debate that $20/month for 48 months is almost $1000 in the life of the lease, and if you decide to keep the car the lower pay-off saves you even more money. Bear in mind that to get the lower rates from brokers or banks you need a perfect credit history. You need to shop around for better rates, but it may be worth your effort. Also, I'm certain that with the Feds dropping the interest rate further since the end of April the lease factors (Audi and otherwise) must be better now.
Be sure to negotiate the price of the car before you work the lease option details. From this forum and from my experience I think it is safe to say that you should expect to pay $1500-$2000 over invoice. You can get invoice details from the Edmunds site. And don't lease for a longer period than the life of the warranty.
By the way, the A6 is in a different category than the I30. And I can't think of any car that is in the same class as the A6 2.7T when quality, performance, price and service are mixed into the equation. All it takes is a test drive!
Good luck!

mmcbride1 · May 2001

Yes, the conversion factor is 2400 (ex. MF of .00255 (what I got on my A4) x 2400 = 6.12%)

And being the owner of both an A4 and an I30, there is no way the I30 is in the same league as the A6. But it shouldn't be - it costs $12-15k less.

timcar · May 2001

Makes me want to go down to the garage and slash my Conti's.

jscatena · May 2001

Thanks for all the lease tips. Will all of that information, if I'm looking at a 2.7T with an MSRP of about $46,000, what would be a "ball-park" lease payment for 6 months (no money down. I'm getting quotes in the $675 range. Is that close?

Jim in Michigan

jpscatena@t-one.net home
jpscatena@floracraft.com office

jscatena · May 2001

Whoops, that would be 39 months, not 6 months. Sorry!

Jim in Michigan

idkillarmy · May 2001

Mark,where did you find those tires for 70 a piece. I am looking to get some for my A8 and the only price I have found is 96 a piece. My tire is only 16" so i dont think that would raise the price but i may be wrong. Thanks

fettman · May 2001

To Automophile -

Just leased an A6 2.7T. Audi is running a deal (I first saw the ad in Florida, but bought my car in Philly) on the 2.7T - $1500 down ($1000 plus first payment) and $499/mo. The deal is good through June 6. I got mine with Lux package (leather, sunroof, electric seats, etc), 17" wheels, heated seats and Bose Premium stereo. I chose the six speed, but they seemed to have more to choose from with the tiptronic. The deal is for 10,000 miles a year but I got them to up it to 12,000. Sticker was $45,600. I worked them down to $1150 total down (including first month payment) and the payments work out to $575/mo due to PA taxes and the addition of the bigger rims. I think this is a screaming deal for this great car. The money factor is really low, and the interest worked out to less than 4%. I had been shopping around a while, and hadn't found anything close for that much car.

drew37 · May 2001

jji7363 · May 2001

I'm considering an A6 and we have several Audi dealers to choose from here in the Pittsburgh area. Are there any indicators of dealer quality that I could use as cues regarding the best one for service? For example, does Audi give awards to the best dealers? Thanks!

Regarding the A6 vs. the I30 and ES300, the base price for the A6 2.8Q isn't that much over the I30. With the new I35 and new ES300 due out this fall, the difference in price may be even smaller. I'm waiting for these redesigns before deciding. The I30 and ES300 seem to be the reliability winners but the A6 has a soul. Looks like the old head-vs-heart dilemma...

nosho · May 2001

Just to complicate comparisons with the I35 and
ES300, consider the 2002 A6 with a 220hp 3.0L V6.
Just that much more soul....

markcincinnati · May 2001

I apologize if I said $70 was the price I paid for the tires (each). I will check my prior posts.

I ordered the tires on-line @ www.tirerack.com for $144.00 for one tire x four plus a few bucks for shipping -- the amount on my credit card was about $600.00 for the tires total. Dismounting, remounting and balancing at the dealer was another $100+. The 4 wheel alignment and new brakes were Audi Advantage.

The tires are 255 x 40 x 17 -- exact size replacements for the tires that came on the A6 w/the sport package option. No plus zero or anything, stock size all the way.

Again sorry for any confusion or misrepresentation -- no magic, just the Internet.

llinn78 · May 2001

jji7363,

I just bought an A6 in Pgh at Sewickly Motors. 2 friends of mine also just bought there. They have a pretty good rep for car knowledge & service.

I visited the 2 other area dealers (Day in the east and another south I forgot the name of). Sewickly beat both on service and price.

I would avoid Day...heard bad stories of price & service. The one in the South Hills I have not heard much about, just visited. They seemed pretty knowledgeable about the cars, but I did not get a feel for their service.

bertram60 · May 2001

Sorry this is off the A6 topic, but....I'm looking to upgrade my A8.

Where did you get your A8 suspension upgrade. I've been looking at 2Bennett Audimotive ($2,195 for shocks, springs and bars) and Autobahn-perfomance ($2,150 for "S8 Sport Kit").

I assume you had dealer install the kit. How was the ride? I don't want too harsh a ride as I'm always hauling customers around. I'm also trying to get a reasonable price on the 18" Avus wheels ($475 is best so far), but as I had a set of 18" Speedlines on my last A8 and A6 and they really firmed the ride up, I'm worried that the tire & suspension package will be too harsh.

Thanks....Randy

jji7363 · May 2001

The reason I ask about dealer quality indicators is that I read in the Edmunds posts on the Toyota Avalon (ugly car so it's out of the running now) that Toyota has some sort of "Presidents Award" for its best dealers.

llinn78:

How much over invoice did you pay from Sewickly Motors? Have you been happy with service? Do they give you a loaner? Funny you should give Day a thumbs down, as I had a bad feeling when I went out there. The sales guy had only been there a week and it looked like they put more emphasis on selling VW. Sewickly, selling Bimmers and Porsches, has a higher quality standard I bet. I'm heading out there next week to test drive an A6. Besides, Sewickly is much closer to Wexford than Monroeville, anyway. Is there a salesperson that you would recommend?

markcincinnati · May 2001

S8 upgrade was from Joe Hoppen Motorsports.

www.hoppenmotorsport.com

automophile · May 2001

Money Factor - Ooopps - 2400 x MF = Interest is correct.

Lease Rate - For a least of $46,000 list, $44,000 Cap cost, 0 down, 60% residual (may be too low), MF of 0032, I get a lease rate of $748, incl. tax & lic fees, so you are in the ballpark.

markcincinnati · May 2001

The ride with the S8 suspension and new Pirelli PZero tires size 245 X 50 X17 actually improved. The squirm in the butt went away and the sometimes floaty nature of the Comfort Suspension + the Comfort Seats (i.e., non-sport seats) was all but vanquished.

I also put a "high performance" air filter on this 1997 A8 and truth be told, the only real difference I could tell there was the "honking" sound got more noticable under full throttle -- which was a good thing, but I couldn't really vouch for any dramatic performance improvement.

The suspension+new tires really made a difference though. When I got rid of the A8 (at 47,000 miles) I frankly decided an A8 was too big and I wanted an S6, instead I have the closest thing, IMO, avail here in the US of A -- an A6 4.2 w/sport package. I have no delusions that it IS an S6, and am optimistic that since there will be no new S4 model for probably almost 2 years that Audi of America will import a true S6, so that Audi can have at least 2 S variants in the US (as I am assuming the S8 will soldier on).

I wish someone, who really knew the straight poop would tell "the world" why Audi of America would bring an S4 and an S8 (which has to have a very very limited market) to the US but no S6? I have been unable to come up with any model that really makes sense -- were
THAT many customers clammoring for an $80,000 big Audi car? The market would seem to support a greater quantity of cars in the S6 price bracket ($60,000?) than in the S8 price range.

And why bring a new A4 to market without an Avant or an S4 is also beyond my comprehension.

sandecki · May 2001

$550/39months/10k/year/57% residual/0.00165 Money Factor in NJ$

Premium, Sport, Lux, Bose, 17in rims

Can I do Better?

timcar · May 2001

markcincinnati · May 2001

Called my guy at local dealer -- he says it is a good deal, but questioned why only 10K miles -- thought you should price it at 12K miles.

Claimed it seemed to be a good deal, but to watch the gotcha's on the milage -- must not be Audi Financial or it must be a highly restricted milage offereing or there is a "big" penalty for exceeding the milage.

See if you can get the same deal (or close) @ 12K miles per year -- anyway my dealer says it seems like a good deal.

You know how they are -- one guy always thinks he can beat the other someway.

markcincinnati · May 2001

Yep -- that's what I heard too! The only S6 in the US will be an Avant. I'd rather have an allroad if I'm going to get a "wagon" or quasi SUV.

amarchan · May 2001

Go for it! The best MF Audi is quoting now here in SC is .00227. However, try to get them to 12k miles/year and make sure you're not paying MSRP. For an A6 that lists in the $46k range you should be paying around $43k, that's invoice plus $1.5-$2.0k.

llinn78 · May 2001

jji7363 -

I paid $1700 over invoice. Didn't haggle all that much...you might be able to do better.

All the salespeople there seem pretty good, try Ron Kean or Chris Armstrong.

I Don't know first hand on the service -- just got my car 2 days ago. Friends who have bought cars there for years say it is 1st class though.

Make sure you keep the June 6th date in mind if you're going to lease. . .a pretty good deal from Audi Financial.

jscatena · May 2001

Here's the latest deal I've received:

2.7T with cold weather pkg., Bose premium system, Premium Pkg., Preferred luxury pkg. = $45,175

39 month lease, 15,000 miles, 0 (zero) down $599/month. Offer good thru 6/6

Sound good?

amarchan · May 2001

That sounds like the terms of an Audi (VW of North America) lease, similar to what I got last month, except I had the pearlescent paint and rear side air bags, no cold weather package. MSRP in my car was $46,100, and I paid $1500 over invoice. These are not bad terms. The car is well worth it. You can extend the lease 6 months without penalty with the same terms in most leases, and you will still be under warranty (45 months) and into the new model year (2005).
That sounds like a MF of around .00226-227. You might get a better MF from an independent source, but Audi leases have a higher residual value which may offset the monthly payment. None of the independent leases I checked could do better than 55% residual. However, if you plan to keep the car after the lease expires (and with an extended warranty) shopping around for a better MF may actually pay for that extended warranty with money left over. Extended warranties to 100,000 miles are running anywhere from $1700-$2000 now from Audi dealers - who knows what they will be in 4 years?

omszz · June 2001

Just picked up a A6 2.7T on lease. Thought I'd post terms up here for those looking at the current deal Audi has going on:

39 mo
$560/mo (includes tax - 512 w/o tax)
Down - 2k (includes all fees, licensing, and first months pymt).
Money Factor - 0.00155
Capital Cost - 43,100
Residual - around 26k

The money factor was amazing - lowest I've ever seen, so i took it. Plus i got a decent reduction in the Capitol Cost - from 46k down to 43k.

mariobgoode · June 2001

To omszz: This is the best deal I have seen so far. I'm almost tempted to take the '01 instead of waiting for the '02. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Thanks for the post. I'll contact my Audi dealer. BTW, what sorta equipment did you get? Bye. Mario

allart · June 2001

Markcincinnati, I will be moving to Cincinnati in August, and plan to buy a loaded 2002 2.7T soon after. Since you seem to live there, which dealer/salesperson would you recommend?
Thanks,

allart@vanholten.com

Audi A6

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles