Dodge Intrepid

pkcicco · March 2003

I have a 02 ES 3.5L and 19K. Lately I've noticed a slight metallic clicking noise (like a loose valve stem or tappet clearance issue) coming from the engine at highway speeds. At low speeds around town it sounds normal. One mechanic told me it was normal for that engine, that they are traditionally loud, but I'm having a hard time buying it. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm gonna visit another dealership later in the week. The oil has been changed every 3k since new and I run 89 octane in it. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I love the car.

mamablair · March 2003

I just wanted to say thanks for every ones input on buying the the SE I bought a dodge certified SE 2002 loaded on Saturday Its dark blue. 19,800 miles I got it for $11,800 I think this is a good price what do you think? I really love this car I hope I don't have any problems. :-)

mike372 · March 2003

It looks like you paid a fair price. If the car was certified it must have come with the 80000 powertrain warranty. I was looking at SE's with 12,000 to 15,700 miles for $13,000. But for 13K most were not certified. I ended up buying a new 2002 leftover for 16,800 plus $100 doc. fee. The only difference between my car and yours is mine has anti-lock brakes which was a $600 option. Yours probably does not have this option but it is possible that it does. Do you know? And yours may or may not have aluminum wheels. Most of the used ones I looked at had aluminum wheels. By the way, which state do you live in. I was looking at used SE's in NJ. However, I had to travel to CT to get mine since I was picky about the color and anti lock brakes. Also, if you bought the car at a dealer, was it a previous rental car? Nearly all of them are but some dealers say they are "executive driven" cars which is a bunch of garbage. But so far I am happy with mine but I do expect it to last a long time as my other American cars have. Just make sure you get the oil changed every 3-4K miles as this seems to be imperative with the 2.7 L engine.

Jason5 · April 2003

Emale--if you're around you might have some input on this. Anyone else here a routine user of the "Car-Truck.com" site? If so, are you getting an error or "forbidden access" message when you try to view it the past few days? Any feedback would be helpful.
Interesting, helpful and positive dialogue that's been evidenced here is nice to see. Did our "identity changing" detractor get bored? My 2000 Steel Blue ES continues to soldier on--recently completing a round trip of about 1500 miles for a grand total of 56,500.. Unlike some I have had all brake pads changed--with Bendix lifetime replacement pads. Changed my tires at just shy of 40K to Goodyear Allegra's. Many of your know have read the potential transmission "horror story" that I averted when they put the incorrect fluid in despite my warning.
Has anyone else with 50K or more decided to have the timing belt (and other accessory belt) replaced? It falls at 50K in the cycle and the dealer mentioned it--although my private shop did not. It is looking a bit glazed and pitted, squeals near redline, but still holds together.. Probably better to have it replaced now. With regard to oil changes--because of the large number of highway miles--and the fact that I use full synthetic in my 3.2--I go at least 5000 now before changes.. Hope all is well any feedback on car-truck.com welcome.. Be well and peace to us all..

andre1969 · April 2003

...a week or so ago, I remember a blurb on Car-Truck.com saying that the site was going down indefinitely around the end of the month. They wouldn't specify why, exactly, although I remember them saying something about a new business opportunity, negotiations, or something vague like that.

My 2.7 has a timing chain, whereas the 3.2/3.5 have a timing belt, so I'm not too concerned about the chain. I think the timing belt interval is 105K miles, though. The 3.2 is an interference engine, but the 3.5 is not. Interesting.

As for the accessory belts, mine is at around 77K miles now, and when it was in the shop recently, I had them check it out. Belts, hoses, and coolant all still look fine. I just had new tires put on this past Friday...some Yokohama Avids. I'm due for another tranny service around 90K, so I'll probably have them do the belts/hoses/coolant then, just to be safe...even if they say it still looks good. Depending on how quick I rack up the miles, I might have it done sooner, as I'm not driving nearly as much as I used to. I'm only putting around 1000 miles a month on the car now, and expect that to drop as nicer weather nears, as I tend to get out the convertible. I also have an '85 Chevy pickup and a '79 New Yorker that I'm trying to drive every once in awhile so they don't sit too long, so the 'Trep's mileage may be even lower. Maybe I'll just end up getting the belts/hoses/coolant done on the 'Trep's 4th anniversary, in November, regardless of how many miles are on it!

If your accessory belts are actually looking worn and pitted though, it might be a good idea to have them changed. I've heard that the flat belts they use nowadays tend *not* to show visual damage as readily as the older V-style belts, so if yours is actually showing damage and wear, it might be close to snapping.

Jason5 · April 2003

Good to hear from you... Hard to believe my Intrepid will also turn 4 in November. Got her just before Thanksgiving in 1999. One of the first Steel Blue 2000's around. Hope all is well with you. Question...you said that the 3.2 is an "interference" engine but the 3.5 is not... Help me out with that??

emale · April 2003

jason,

the old iron block 3.5l was not an "interference" engine, but the newer aluminum block 3.2l and 3.5l are intereference engines. interference means that if the timing belt breaks the pistons could collide with the valves.

did you say your timing belt was squealing?? if so definitely replace that. same with accessory drive belt. like andre said the timing belt replacement schedule is 105k, but i don't think i'd wait that long if it were me...

andre1969 · April 2003

are you sure that the newer 3.5 is an interference design? I've just been getting my info from a Gates timing belt replacement pdf file, and it lists the 3.2 as being interference, but not the 3.5, whether it's the old iron block or the newer aluminum block.

Gates could be wrong, though!

I can never remember...is the 3.2 destroked or debored from the 3.5, or are both dimensions smaller?

emale · April 2003

andre,

i'm not entirely sure...but thought i'd read somewhere that the newer v6s (3.2l and 3.5l) where indeed interference. it would seem strange to me that the 3.2l would be and the 3.5l which is basically the same engine wouldn't be. i'll do some checking around as time permits.

emale · April 2003

andre,

according to allpar.com the 3.2l is a debored version of the 3.5l, but the stroke is the same. i'm still not 100% positive about valve clearance on the 3.5l...

Jason5 · April 2003

Emale, Andre...Thanks.. As my students like to say, I was suffering a "brain fart".

andre1969 · April 2003

...that the 3.5 would be non-interference, but the 3.2 would be interference. Maybe the head design is different on the 3.2, and that would put the valves more in harm's way in case of a failed timing belt?

Brain fart eh? The kids still say that? ;-)

Jason5 · April 2003

As I recall...the 3.2 and the 3.5 are, for all intents and purposes, the same engine with slightly different displacement. So I think the info others have provided is accurate..
Hmmm... I thought brain fart was relatively new...

smithed · April 2003

Andre and Jason,

Thanks for telling me that the 3.2 is an interference engine. Although I have only 63,000 miles and the interval for timing belt chain isn't until 105,000 I think I will get that done about 90,000 or so. I don't want to take a chance. I have had timing belts break on 2.2 liter engines (non-interference), a Reliant, and an Omni GLH Turbo, with no big deal. The engine just stops running. With the GLH, I coasted into a service garage that I use, got out and told the guy that I needed a timing belt. He looked at me like I didn't know what I was talking about. Called me later that day and said "You were right about the timing belt and that will be $138.00". I suspect the tab for the 3.2 will be considerably higher.

Time to wash the 'Trep.

ES

mike372 · April 2003

reached the 900 mile mark. No problems since the dealer replaced the ABS controller. It looks like I am going to get rid of either my '89 TBird or '79 Firebird, as I cant afford to insure three cars. Probably the Firebird is going to go. I will miss that car, especially the V-8 engine. Maybe I can find someone interested in restoring it. Its not worth much. Probably the original Rallye II wheels are worth more than the car itself. But I am really enjoying driving my Intrepid. Its just a real good looking car, especially the color.

mike372 · April 2003

post lately, so I went back in time and read some previous posts. Andre 1969, I read one of your posts about the Impala and couldn't help but laugh. I was just thinking, if my 2.7L Intrepid engine blows up maybe I try to replace it with the 4.9L engine from my Firebird! Well, just a thought.

smithed · April 2003

It would be hard to shoe horn in anything much bigger than the 3.2/3.5, but can you imagine one of those new Hemis (or God forbid one of the old Hemis) in your Trep? Maybe that's what they are thinking about with the rear wheel drive replacements. Just paint it orange and we are ready to go.

andre1969 · April 2003

like a Chevy 305/350 or a Ford 302 block into an Intrepid. They'd certainly be narrow enough, but with having a row of 4 cylinders instead of 3, the block might be too long to fit in there.

If you have the time and the money though, I guess anything is possible! I've seen PT Cruisers with the 426 Hemi in them, and once I saw an old 70's Dodge Colt with a 440 in it!

I haven't gotten a good look up close at the new Hemi, but I don't think it's nearly as big as the old ones. First off, the old one was based on a big-block V-8. The new one, while it's all new, has the same bore spacing as the 360 it replaces. I think it has the same stroke too, but I'm not sure. I think the new Hemi is even lighter than the 360. The two rocker arms in the head are spaced closer together too, so the heads aren't nearly as wide as they were back in the day.

Hey Mike, is your 4.9 a turbo or the regular model? Oh yeah, I forgot...what'd I say about the Impala? I tried to go back and look but couldn't find it. Hope it wasn't anything *too* naughty ;-)

mike372 · April 2003

Chevy took two Luminas and a Celebrity and put together the parts that seemed to fit and, presto, an Impala. I tend to agree, but..., you cant make fun of Chevrolet alltogether because my first car was a '71 Chevelle with a 350 V-8 which was easily the best engine I've ever owned. Only problem was, it got 10 mpg, but that was not all that bad considering when the car was new gas cost 35 cents a gallon. And that was for Premium! I actually repainted the car myself in dark blue clear coat lacquer and it really looked sharp. Complete with almost original Chevy Rallye wheels courtesy of a '74 Camaro.

mike372 · April 2003

did you ever remove the oil cap and look to see if there was any 'sludge' underneath the valve cover like some have been complaining about on other sites. I know that its hard to see but sometimes you can see a limited area. Just wondering? Mike.

andre1969 · April 2003

Nah, I never did the check for sludge, but the next time I check my oil, I'll give it a look.

Oh yeah, my first car was a Chevy too, a 1980 Malibu coupe. It just had a 229 V-6, but it was a good little car.

mike372 · April 2003

did they just drop the pan and refill with as much fluid as came out, or did they use a machine to flush out the entire system. Mike.

andre1969 · April 2003

...that the mechanic just dropped the pan and let the fluid drain out, and replace the pan and gasket. That was about 2 1/2 years ago (the first change) and I had the second change about a year ago.

The guys that ran this shop (they finally retired about a year ago...they were transitioning when I had the car in for its last tranny service) had been around forever...before they opened up their own business they worked at a place up the street that had sold DeSotos!

The guys that run the shop now are a bit more hi-tech though, so they may have gotten in a machine that can flush out the tranny. I dunno, though.

emale · April 2003

tranny flushing has become an interesting topic. many guys in the know are not recommending it...especially on trannys with alot of miles.

they recommend dropping the pan and draining the torque converter...then refilling.

i guess a number of people have had tranny failures soon after a flush service. supposely the flush can cause things to come lose that shouldn't be floating around in a tranny??

andre1969 · April 2003

about not stirring stuff up if you let the tranny go too long without servicing. I think another common cause for Chrysler trannies failing was mechanics putting in the wrong fluid. For awhile, I think the owner's manual was even mis-printed, calling for Type +3 (7176) fluid, when you really needed Type +4 (9196).

I've also heard that it was common for a rebuilt tranny to fail because they'd forget to flush out fluid in the cooling lines that go to the base of the radiator. Junk that had accumulated in there would circulate through the new tranny, and cause it to fail prematurely.

emale · April 2003

andre,

atf+4 didn't even come into existence until about 2000...so before that it was atf+3 and atf type 7176. i think what you are referring to was back in the late 80s very early 90s some manuals said that dexron was okay...that was a huge NO NO!! dexron has very different frictional properties vs chrysler spec tranny fluid.

andre1969 · April 2003

that was probably it, then. What happens though, if you put atf+3 in a tranny designed for +4? Would that be enough to damage the tranny, or would it just make it shift more roughly?

mike372 · April 2003

my TBird for second time, about 112,000 miles, I told the shop to drop the pan and drain the converter, which they did (I even watched them since I generally dont trust mechanics as I do all my own work). And the transmission is still good at 149,000 miles. I had the option at 112,000 miles to have the system flushed by another shop, but I decided against it, mostly because it was more $$. Actually, in my Firebird, which has 185,000 miles on the original trans, I never did any thing but drop the pan. The transmission and cooler lines were never flushed. But I do not abuse my cars either, like some do.

emale · April 2003

andre,

i believe i have this right. aftf+4 is backwards compatible with chrysler trannies that originally required atf+2 (type 7176) and atf+3 except for '99 and earlier minivans. something to do with torque converter shudder on the vans. however, a vehicle that was factory filled with atf+4 should only use atf+4...

there was a chrysler tsb that mentioned this somewhere...

doesn't it make you wish they all (all car makers) used the same damn tranny fluid!!!

mike372 · April 2003

you had a viper security system installed on your Intrepid. Just wondering how you like it, how much it cost, what you thought of the installation job and if you would buy it again. The one thing I liked about the used ES's I looked at is they had a neat Security System, complete with coded keys, if they had the 'M' package which included some other things that were largely worthless, like seats with leather seaing areas.

andre1969 · April 2003

I think mine cost about $350 installed. I bought it at Circuit City back in August of 2000, so they might have gone up since then. At the time though, I didn't have the remote trunk release installed though (in one of my cheap moments), but 6 months later they did it for me for $20.

The only real problem I had was that the installers didn't put everything back together quite right. The first time I put on the parking brake, it went to the floor and stayed there! They forgot to re-attach a cable or two. Luckilly I was only about a mile or two from the shop, and they sent someone out to fix me on the spot.

Otherwise, I'm happy with it. If you look inside the left-most a/c duct, a red wire is visible, but it's really only obvious at certain times of the day, when the sun hits it just right.

I know that it's not going to keep away anybody who really, *really* wants to get into my car, but if nothing else, it at least gives me some peace of mind, and it'll make a few of the less *professional* thieves think twice.

One thing that came in really handy though, is the remote unlock for the doors. I used to deliver pizzas, and the remote figure made hopping in the car with 3 or 4 hot-bags a lot easier! And now it's gotten to the point that I'm so used to hitting a button instead of fumbling for the keys, it feels weird whenever I drive an older car. I've caught myself on a few occasions, trying to aim the fob at my '79 New Yorker!

Would I do it again? Probably. The main reason I got the Viper in the first place was because someone tried to break into my car, and damaged the passenger-side door handle and sheetmetal in the process. When I bought my car, I had the dealership put in a 10-disk cd changer, which has the controls mounted on the dash, just to the right of the steering column. I think that's what they were probably trying to get to. If the CD system was integrated into the car better, like from the factory, maybe they wouldn't have tried to steal it.

mike372 · April 2003

The main reason I am thinking of getting a security system is not so much to prevent thieves from stealing anything in the car, since it just has the base stereo system, but to prevent someone from stealing the car. But even base stereo systems can be stolen. So I may start shopping around. I have never bought an alarm system for any of my cars, and I have been fortunate enuf not to experience a break in. But you never know. And, for the most part, I have never had a job which was in a high crime area.

pkcicco · April 2003

Can anyone recommend a good replacement tire for an 02 Intrepid ES. OEM's are Goodyear GA's and I can't stand them. There traction is terrible and the road noise drives me crazy.

andre1969 · April 2003

my second set of replacement tires. They're Yokohama Avid something-or-other. I got 'em online at www.tirerack.com, and had my mechanic put them on. I think the tires came to around $246, with shipping, and the mechanic only charged $44.44 to put 'em on.

My OEM Eagle GA's lasted a grand total of 30K miles, and that was even pushing it...they were almost down to slicks by that point! I did a lot more driving back then, putting on that 30K in about 11 months, so when I bought my first set of replacement tires, I was looking mainly for low cost and long treadlife.

Back then, I bought some cheap General Tire Continentals, or something like that, from www.tire.com. They were about $255 with shipping, and had a 520 treadwear rating. I got about 47K miles out of them, and they actually did have some life left in them. Only problem was, about 7K miles into these tires, I picked up two nails in one tire, and got it plugged. One of the plugs was close to the sidewall, so it was pushing it a little. About 5 months ago, it started getting a slow leak. Never would go totally flat, but it would go down to about 20 psi. For awhile, I could get by with putting air in it every 3 weeks or so, but in the end it got down to every couple of days.

One of my tires was also worn unevenly, when the car went out of alignment. It wasn't *too* bad though.

Anyway, the Yokohamas make a world of difference. They ride smoother and the car handles better than those Continentals did. I honestly can't remember how they compare to those Eagle GAs though. I've only had them on the car about 2 weeks now, but we've had plenty of wet weather, and no traction/braking problems yet!

mike372 · April 2003

last very long. I looked at quite a few of used 02 Intrepids and could not believe how worn the tires were with only 8-10K miles. One Intrepids tires were so worn (the front tires) that I told the salesman that the miles on the car were incorrect. But after looking at several others I came to the conclusion that it was the tires... they were *garbage*. Granted, since they were all previous rentals and tires were probably not rotated. But, still, the tread life was dismal. It will be interesting to see how many miles I get out of my GA's, but I not keeping my fingers crossed.

smithed · April 2003

My original Goodyears lasted 33,000 miles, and that's with regular rotation. They were replaced with Cooper Lifeliners (Touring Edition) which now have 31,000 miles on them and still have half or greater of their tread left. The Coopers are also alot quieter than the Goodyears. The Coopers are usually sold by independent dealers. The warranty is good. Definitely stay away from the Goodyears.

mike372 · April 2003

I will probably replace my GA's with Yokohamas when they wear out like you did, Andre. I almost bought them for my girlfriends Honda, but finally went with Pirelli's. Both received very good reviews from Consumer Reports but the Pirelli's edged out the Yokohama's in braking performance. And the Pirelli's were only a couple of dollars more per tire. But Yokohama's are supposed to be very good tires.

Jason5 · April 2003

Just shy of 40,000 miles I went tire shopping for my 2000 ES. Ended up choosing the Goodyear Allegra (in this case from Sam's Club). I don't regret my choice--less road noise, slightly smoother, good rain and snow traction and a mileage rating that should almost double the life of the OEM GA's. Very good price too..

mike372 · April 2003

collectors insurance. I was talking to a guy who owned a Vette several years ago and he mentioned this type of insurance since he only drove the car a few thousand miles a year. I am thinking of getting this insurance for my Firebird because insurance with Prudential on two or three cars is too much $$. Where can I get this insurance??

njdevilsrn · April 2003

My wife's 2002 Intrepid SEs horn stopped working yesterday. I think it's strange for a car less than 18 months old. Not like we drive in city traffic beeping the thing all day. Anyone else have this problem?

andre1969 · April 2003

I have three old cars insured through Hagerty Insurance. They're at www.hagerty.com. It's something like $167 a year for my '57 DeSoto, '67 Catalina convertible, and '68 Dart. My regular insurance company is Erie Insurance Group, and if I were to insure these cars through them, with just liability-only (they don't offer antique car ins), it'd be about $260 per year, per car!

They'll insure just about anything from the '60's and earlier, provided it's not a total clunker. They have a minimum value, I think it's $3-4K. The car also has to be garaged though. With the '70's and '80's though, they tend to get much more selective. I'd think that something like a Firebird would stand a good shot at being insured though. It's one of the few cars from that era that would stand a chance of being a collectible.

pkcicco · April 2003

Thanks for the insight. I just hit 20K today (I'm all highway) and I'm sure all I'm gonna get is 30k out of the GA's. I just cant get over how bad they are. Have all of you stuck with a T rated tire? I was wondering if going to an H is worth it?

Jason5 · April 2003

If you've disabled the speed limiter and are taking your Intrepid over 100MPH routinely--then by all means go with the H rating!!!! OK..I'm done being a smart aleck.. I actually searched--out of personal curiousity--for H-rated, compatible tires. What I found was greater cost, lower tire life (treadwear ratings), greatly reduced selection and a general consensus that ride would suffer a bit due to softer tread compounds. Certainly cornering and general handling would be better... Tell us what you decide!

jsylvester · April 2003

Hagerty requires the car to be 1969 or older, (newer are accepted on a case by case basis), driven only for show, clubs, or pleasure, kept in a locked garage, and a picture submitted before coverage. It also cannot be a primary vehicle, and driven only sparingly.

They also charge more if the car has been modified for performance, expensive paint, customization, etc.

That being said, my 67 Galaxie 500 XL convertible was $192 a year at State Farm, Hagerty quoted me $82 a year.

andre1969 · April 2003

...are only S-rated. Or whatever speed corresponds to 112 mph. I can't remember the last time I've been over 100 mph, and I've heard that the base models are rev-limited to 106 (or is it 109) anyway.

I do remember awhile back, on one of those wildest police chases videos seeing a first-gen 'Trep that was flying down the interstate and clipped another car, flipped gently onto its roof, and slid upside down for about a half-mile. They said he was doing 125 mph. I don't remember if it was a base or ES, though. Were the first-gen models faster than the current ones? Or maybe the rev limiter on this one was just disabled?

mike372 · April 2003

I remember seeing that show also and the Intrepid clipped a (I think) Lincoln Town Car. It went flying down the road. The Lincoln just kept on going as if it was never hit! Probably some 60 or 70 year old driver who could not believe what was happening. As far as insurance goes, I may have some difficulty as the Firebird is not worth 3 or 4K since it is not restored. And I don't think the ins. company will view it as a collector car since part of it is red and part in lacquer prime since I never got around to finishing it. But I will make some phone calls. It is, however, stored in a locked garage.

smithed · April 2003

Regarding the limits discussed above, what does anybody know about where the limit is set on a 1999 ES 3.2? I have never been over 90 myself in it, because I hate being asked for my driver's license and registration.

ES

mike372 · April 2003

I dont think it is unusual to have problems with almost new Chrysler products. My ABS controller decided to act up with only 500 miles on the car(Intrepid SE). Just wondering if you checked the fuse. And, by the way, do you live in the Garden State.

andre1969 · April 2003

I checked the 'net to see if I could find anything, but the closest I could find was on autos.msn.com/ There are some car reviews on there, and one of them mentioned that the 2.7's top speed is 109 mph and the 234 hp 3.5 is 112 mph. It doesn't mention the 241 hp model, though (or is that up to 250 now?)

Anyway, I'd imagine the 3.2 is somewhere similar, designed to top it out at around 110. I'd like to know how fast some of these cars really can go, though. I found some test results from the Michigan State Police, and their '03 test Intrepid topped out at 138 mph! And *that* was rev limited! For comparison, I think the fastest stock Mopar police cruiser was the '69 Dodge Polara, and I believe it topped out at around 145 mph.

mike372 · April 2003

While you guys are talking about top speeds for the Intrepids, I was thinking about radar detectors. Does anyone know of any *good* detectors out there that can detect the types of radars small towns use. I am getting tired of the sleazy tactics used by my hometown police. The night I was driving my Intrepid home from CT I got stopped in my town for speeding coming down a steep hill (mountain). The sleazy cop did not give me a ticket for speeding (I told him I had just bought the car and was not used to the 455 Cubic Inch Engine under the hood). Well, not really, but he gave me a ticket for having no insurance card in my possession. I am definitely going to buy a radar detector but dont know which one.

Dodge Intrepid

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