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The key won't work now. Any one know how I can remove and replace that key lock assembly with the hatch back closed and locked.?
Thanks
Olddad
Is anyone having a similar problem? Seems that the hot water is there all the time, regardless of whether heat is on. Has anyone done anything to overcome the problem?
Thanks
First it would seem to down shift.
Secondly it would be really hard to put into park.
Thirdly, was forced (I guess) into a gear and would not start up again. We do beleive we have it in park (it will not move) but it still won't start. I have been told that I need to replace the transmission coil, linkage, cable. Not sure on how to do this.
My name is Garry And I am new to this forum or any forum for that matter. A friend told me this was the place to come for info on my problem so I hope some one can help me.
I have a 95 plymouth voy van and my wife was driving it and it started to lose power and slowing down so she pulled over and stopped, the van was still running she shut it off and it would not start up again. I had it towed home and began checking it out and found that there is no power getting to the coil.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Garry
next day van hesitates when starting then starts up. drive to local mech. - really good people and have always been honest with me. they can't fit me in but check the battery - fully charged, all ok. Voltage light does not come on. Drive back home, voltage light comes back on when driving after 20 min. gauges are acting up again. Take it back into mech next day - they get a trouble code P1594 "overcharging" - but not sure what is going on. They bring in an outside guy who does nothing but diagnostics to run a diagnostic on electrical system. But they are still unsure what cause is. Voltage light is not coming on for them. They think it is either, Alternator, regulator or something in the computer.
Pick car up. all orange indicator lights on the AC and fan buttons are all blinking. Car still drives but every now and then voltage light comes on and gauges blink or needles go up and down.
Then went to start car today, turned key in ignition - nothing, not even a clicking sound. Tried several more times and on fifth try, it started right up!
I'm thinking I have to take it into a dealer. Not sure which I dislike more, my Dodge Grand Caravan or my dealer who overcharges me.
Would appreciate ANY advice. Am I looking at a whole new alternator or computer?
Thanks
P.S.( We recently bought a Toyota Sienna - not one single problem)
The a/c fan control lights could be on from the battery being disconnected or going dead. Mine came on when I had the battery changed. I think those lights can also be used to diagnose problems. Dealers can be expensive but the
techs are usually more familar with the cars the dealers sell.
good luck
Since the van drives fine, I just haven't felt it worth the money to have the dealer poke around with no assurance that they'll find the problem.
The knocking noise that I was hearing when going over bumps, was the outer tire rods on both wheels. They changed them and set the toe. I can really feel the difference in driving and handling. The steering is a lot tighter now. Total cost with a day rental was $451.25. Everything was covered under our Maximumcare warranty, so we only had to pay the $100 deductible and $5 for the mileage we went over in the rental.
Just a thought.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Plymouth Voyager 93, 3.0 L. Automatic trans. 99500 miles http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2263896 :shades:
This minivan had a new rebuild ecm (3 months ago), new 02 sensor, water pump and spark plugs (5 months ago) and new map and fuel pump (6 months ago), Was running great!
but yesterday at night i was driving at 45 mph very nice and smoothly and suddenly when i put the foot on gas i didn't get any response.
I see the cluster panel and i got more of 1/4 tank, even now i fell as i was out of gas
i pushed the pedal again but the engine doesn't accelerate otherwise i feel as it was turning off, i decided to go slowly but without brake off to have
chance to go out of the lane i try to accelerate again, but this time i see that the tachometer doesn't go up so i decide to park
i try to accelerate once again and it turned off and i couldn't turn it on again.
i tried the shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay and both of them are working correctly. The fuel pump makes less noise that usual when i turn the key
and when i left the engine,i made a bypass with both relays without any answer. i have to call a crane whose driver also abused of my pocket
Today i took off the distributor's cap and celaned it. The rotor eas too scorched but i wahsed everything with water and soap
and the failure seemed to be there but it wasn't. seemingly i don´t have spark from the ignition coil, how can i test it??
i got too many gas in the tank. Is there any method to proove the fuel pressure without a fuel pressure tester??
it may be the throttle position sensor?
The ECM says "all it's ok", (code 55) but i'll try to restart and i'll try re-connect the canister too.
I have never changed the fuel filter because i can't find the piece inside the van
The best i got was a less than a second start and it turns off again, I need help i'm in desperation
I don't trust in mechanicals and my poor girlfriend always have to help me to push the van when she wears a skirt.
Before hand thank you
Dnaiel saul Dominguez Rosales.
Sounds like this vehicle's check engine fault code was cleared just before you bought it to keep the light off.
Put your key in the ignition, and without starting the engine follow this sequence within five seconds: ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON Look at the odometer for the code(s) and write them down. Post them here or go over to Allpar.com and do a search.
There is a sequence that needs to be followed, and is available on Edmunds fora by means of a search.
If, after the re-calibration, the flashing persists, it my mean that the system has failed a cool down test due to low refrigerant, and needs to be checked out further.
Very stiff, and i think motor will burn out soon.
any sugg.
#321 of 642 Re: AC/heating lights on dashboard [rebellady1964] by crackerjax May 30, 2005 (3:36 am)
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Replying to: rebellady1964 (May 15, 2005 5:22 am)
I had the same problem and the Dodge House where I lived wanted 500 dollars to fix it! I found someone on the internet who helped me out and I pass this on to you and others to save you some big money as this you can do for free. Here is what you do:
All you need to do is start your van. Then slide your temp lever all the way to full cold. Then turn the Mode Control to the one that sends air to your face only. Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash, you can let go. The AC will now calibrate. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. This means it has been completed. Press the last flashing button and you are done. Turn off the van and started it back up and see now you don't have those infernal blinking lights anymore! Hope this helps! Oh, be careful with the battery, it is very touchy on Dodge Caravans and can blow out any electrical thing so it is better to take the battery out and charge it and don't charge it directly. One guy mentioned it blew his on board computer just accidently touching the wrench and grounding the battery so be careful with the battery.
Replies to this message:
Since the car is only 1-month old, I took it to my dealer and the mechanics can't find anything wrong with it. But then we found another issue: according to the service information about this car, the car will give a chime if the park brake is on and the vehicle's speed is over 1 mph. The mechanics intentionally drove some short distance twice while the park brake is on, but neither time did the chime come out.
I spoke with different dealers and mechanics and got different answers. Some said it is not a big deal as long as you see no further warning signs. Some said the car shouldn't chime when you normally park, and should chime when you drive with the park brake on, and you should have the car serviced.
I am hesitating because this is a brand-new car and I am afraid that having it serviced maybe won't do me any good, or maybe make things even worse(the mechanics in my local dealer insisted there is nothing to be worried about). What's your opinon on this issue? thanks.
Brought it to the dealer and he found a faulty front oxygen sensor. I know these are about $80-$100 for the part, but they are charging me $325. Does this sound right. Also, they just called because I needed an inspection and the rear lights aren't working so they said to replace the rear switch (because it's in a tough place) it will cost another $200!
Am I being had?
good luck
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler-Sebring-Town-Country-Caravan-Oxygen-O2-S- ensor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46097QQitemZ8067268862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW