In the middle of my first business trip in the new XL-
- one of the best if not the best long distance cruisers ever, and I've had a few.
- about 29 mpg, on a car with just 1k miles.
- only problem is that I was constantly fiddling with the manual AC dials, almost worth buying the extraneious bells and whistles just to get the auto temo control.
HELLO TO ALL, JUST WANTED TO LET YOU FOLKS KNOW A FEW THINGS ABOUT AVALON XLS'S. THE OTHER NIGHT MY CAR GOT BROKEN INTO, THE PERSON BROKE OUT MY PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WINDOW, WELL GUESS WHAT MY FACTORY ALARM DIDN'T GO OFF, EVEN AFTER SHAKING THE CAR UP, THEY ALSO POPPED OPEN MY TRUNK FROM INSIDE THE CAR AND IT STILL DIDN'T GO OFF. CAN YOU SAY SUCKS OUT LOUD. ALSO, ON THE XLS THE WINDOWS HAVE A BRONZE TINT FROM THE FACTORY THAT HAS TO BE SPECIAL ORDERED, BECAUSE IT'S THE SAME GLASS AS USED BY LEXUS. I LOVE MY CAR AND HAVE NO COMPLAINTS AS FAR AS THE CAR GOES ESPECIALLY AFTER 118,000 MLS, BUT WHEN YOU NEED ANYTHING DONE OR WORKED ON MOST PARTS ARE BASICALLY LEXUS AND THAT MEANS MORE MONEY. TOYOTA SELLS THEIR ALARM AS A TOP QUALITY ALARM, BUT I'M JERKING IT OUT AND PUTTING IN A REAL ALARM. IF ANYONE IS IN THE MARKET FOR AN AVALON, I COULDN'T RECCOMEND A BETTER CHOICE.
as I look at it that is the OLD Avalon. I can say that on my 03 that sucker is sensitive as hell. I've played around with it to some degree to see what get's it's dander up and I rather doubt that a burgler would bother much with a newer version (00 on) as the systems are a complete redesign and an improvement if you ask me.Sorry for your loss, and you're probably right to add a more efficient alarm to that one. About the only way you're going to walk away with a newer one without the fob and key is by flatbed truck! Just don't leave it parked at the airport eh........
I have the 2002 XLS with automatic temperature control. The temperature control seems worthless. The car freezes at almost every setting & I am constantly turning the temperature control off & on. It is probably the only part that Toyota can take a lesson from the US auto makers on how to build it right.
Update (post dealer). There is a TSB on this problem (don't know the #). Cause is some type of communication problem between the 'Amplifier and Servo Assembly' Price $860 ($600 parts + 4 hrs labor).
Couldn't agree more with amc697's comment that the temp controls are nearly worthless on the xls. It is almost always feezing even when you offset the ac by boosting the temperature control to provide more heat to offset the cold (I have to set the "auto" temperature at about 85 degrees to begin to be comfortable.
The failure of the alarm in an older Avalon is unfortunate but the '03 suffers no similar problems. If anything, it is too sensitive. Mine works instantly, loud and clear. The auto temp control problem on the XLS is one of the reasons I drive an XL. Many posts here say the auto temp does not work or, at best, does not work well. The manual controls have always worked fine (my '99 and '03) in mountain cold and Florida heat. Toyota may be a little behind in the "fix" for the problem as many posts have discussed it. This is something to consider if you are looking at Avalons. Still a great car for the money......
Hey Alpha, How are you? Super I hope! You said that the Camry and Avalon are made in the same plant in Kentucky. What puzzles me, Is that I looked in the comsumer book, and the Camry is rated not as reliable. I love the remodeled Camry, I drool whenever one goes by, but I have concerns.... I would much rather have a Camry than a Avalon, and I like the Camry and Highlander better than the Avalon. The Avalon is a nice looking car, but it looks to old for me. I am only going to 29 in November. I want this car shopping to be over with in September, and I want to have my new car or truck by September ;therefore, the only thing left is for me to find a house or condo that I want to buy. All I can say is, eventually, I'll find purchase a vehicle and eventually I'll find the house or condo that i want to buy... Anyhow, that's what puzzles me about the Camry, but you do have a good point that they're both built at the same plant in KY! Have a great weekend! Sunshine60105!
first year models have quality lapses, and in this case, Toyota was no exception. Yes, Consumer Reports predicts only average reliability based on the 02 Camry, but if you look at where the problem areas were, they were not in mechanical areas, but rather interior trim/hardware. If there is one thing youd like to stay away from, its living and dying by what a magazine, JD Powers, etc. says. Use them all as references, but in the end, do what you think is best for you. Again, like I said, compared to Avalon and Highlander, you could purchase a high end Camry and have $$$, if you are really concerned, buy the premium extended warranty. ~alpha
Am going to order a 2003 XL with the luxury package, moonroof and deflector, and a couple of other options. I hope to pay the invoice price of $26,400 less holdback since I'll pick up the car on delivery.
What is the current holdback percent on this model and should I subtract all or part from my offering price?
Hi everyone, I bought a 2003 XLS Avalon in November 2002 and my wife and I are very satisfied with the car. Can the Avalon toe safely a 1,600 pound Coleman camper + another 200-300 pounds of related gear in the camper? I know the owners manual says it can towe up to 2,000 but I wonder if it will wear out the brakes or transmission in the long run. I've talked to the dealer about trading my Avalon for a 4WD V6 Hylander; but, the dealer here in Vermont wants too much. Is there anything I should be concerned about if I decide to have the camper dealer put a hith on the car? I like the way the Avalon drives; althouh I also have had problems with the climate control sys as I've had to set the temperature on 80 before I start getting warm air in the car. I'm thankful the car has heated seats.
I checked out the price for Class II hitch and was quoted $160 for Draw Tite installed. Okay so far, then asked about the electrical wiring and got at least $120 more quoted to me. It seems if you have the brake light failure warning system, you must get the power directly from the battery and then use the turn signal and brake light only to control relays or else it interact with the failure control computer chip, overload sensor, and can cause electrical damage, most of which, I have been told is not covered under your warrenty. Your messed with it and now it is your problem? My wife does not want me to tow our 15 foot sailboat and says that is what we have a truck for. Gross weight would be about 650 pounds.
I like the Avalon XLS climate control, in hot weather it runs the fan on slow, closes the outside air and cools the car. In a mile or two the fan speeds up and the outside is turned on. It does take a few miles or about 5 minutes till things get cool, and then gradually as the temp reaches the set temp on the dash, then the fan blower slows down and if get warm, say by opening a window the fan will speed up to take care of the needed cooling. My biggest problem is my wife wants to manipulate the blower speed, air intake and that takes it off of Auto. I would smack her, but she bruises too easily, much bigger problem! Driving happily in Pennsylvnia.
The XL does not have the automatic temp. control, and thus, those who have the XL have no problems regulating the temp. to their individual needs. A rheostat fan versus a 4 speed would be more progressive, but the manual version seems to work fine.
Trailering up to 2000lbs it is rated, with a tongue weight of I believe 300lbs but check this. You would be best served to hook up a Modulite light wiring harness for a small trailer, and wire it internally through the car. This way you can flap the plug inside instead of letting it dangle outside. This is a direct hook up to the battery. Find a reliable electric auto guy to do this. The hitch can be done by a driveway mechanic. Mine came out perfect.
I just ungraded to 2002 XLS fully loaded from Camry. It is so smoother with the V6. Could anyone share a list of special care to maintain this vehicle. I intend to keep it for a long time.
I bought my 03 xls in nov. 02 and I am unable to get lunar mist touch up paint.T he paint the dealer has does not even come close.Anyone having this problem? I would like to hear from you.Thanks.
#2348. If the touch up paint does not match, go to www.paintscratch.com and order from them. They can achieve a closer or exact match.
#2347. What maitenance items are you referring to??? Do you intend to do them all yourself?? Oil changes every 5K, transmission at 60K then every 30K, change the A/C Filter every year, by taking the glove box out. Be more specific and I would be able to give you a better answer.
I too rely heavily on the absolute reliability and long term stability of my 03XLS. The first thing I had the dealer do after delivery was drop the dino oil and ONLY use Mobil One FULLY synthetic oil as well as Mobil's fully synthetic ATF. It wasn't cheap, but that is the price of superior low wear and tear. I also went to the local ClearBra dealer and had them cover the front hood, trunk lid, lower portions of both doors and entire rear bumper as well as the front end and A pillars. At least now rock chips aren't going to spoil my fun. That alone was about a $1200 deal but worth my peace of mind. So far it has been paying dividends when I clear off the bugs easily from the front end to reveal a perfect paint job each time. :-)
Thanks for the comments. Tomorrow I'm test driving a 2003 Hylander AWD, V6. I'll let you know what I decide; ie, buy the Hylander so I can towe a 2,000 pound camper and trade in my Avalon - or keep my Avalon, and maybe look for a 2001 Hylander V6. It depends allot on how the test drive goes especially for my wife! I don't like the thought of trading the Avalon as it is a very smooth ride.
You made a reference to Modulite as a device to make the electrical connections from the Avalon to the trailer with a direct connection to the battery. If you have any more information on the this unit I would appreciate it, like a web site etc. I checked the factory wiring diagrams for the 2003 XLS and the the light failure sensor makes two taps. the brake light and tail light circuits only. Checked the Draw Tite site and they have the hitch fot $92 plus shipping, and further checking the online installation instructions they use 4 existing bolt holes and you have to drill two more 1/2" holes using the hitch as the template, a 40 minute job. Again, thank you for your input.
Thanks very much to Abfisch and Travelerjb for giving me general guideline. For my previous vehicles, I had most of maintainence done at local Firestone shop or Wal-mart. Boy, I just got this car two days ago with 3k miles on It is in perfect condition and so much better than my old Camry. I would like to keep it for a long time. So any recommendation on lube oil, Mobil 1 or any others, I usually change oil every 3K. anything for leather care, rust proof.
I must admit I would NEVER allow a Firestone or WalMart to touch my car, but that's just me. I can't believe they would have a clue about the workings of these cars. I still change my MobilOne at regular intervals. It's mainly the lowered friction I love and this adds to to considerbly better longevity of engine parts. I would recommend a ClearBra treatment of the front end to preserve the paint in case it's an issue for you (it sure was for me). I prefer the Meguire's Leather products as I use their cream for my seats. Sure keeps them looking nice, new and smelling new as well......
This makes me a little anxious. Because....Toyota, the corporation, and its dealers play a game. If you look at the Owners's and SERVICE Manual (2 volume set), there is no where that I could find that gives you a nice concise table for NORMAL and SEVERE Maintenance. Makes me mad. However, Honda Motor Corp. owner's and service manuals have a nice concise table. Makes me mad.
Anyway, here are some general rules quick.
1. Anything you can do yourself, do. It is cheaper, and you will have the satifaction of knowing it is done correctly. Yes, the oil filter is right under the manifold. Get some mechanics gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
2. There was NO demonstrable difference, measured by a micrometer, in NYC Taxi engines, taken apart after 200K, whether you changed the oil at 3K or 5K. Sooo. unless you like doing it, or get a warm and fuzzy, I would suggest doing it (oil) every 5K, regularly, and I mean regularly. To back this up further, my last car, sold to another soldier here on base (1990 Honda Civic EX) bought new, had 236K on it. It burned about 1/2 a quart every 5K miles. How many people keep their autos longer than this?????(11.5 years with 236K). Point. 5K is fine.
3. I do not have a problem with someone else doing it as long as they are competent. It is not rocket science. The problem is that most who do it, don't really care about your 30K machine. Find someone who cares a little about their work.
4. ATF-No toyota recommendations from corporation. Maybe by dealerships for $70. Honda recommends for SEVERE driving, change (not flush) at 60K, and then every 30K thereafter.
5. A/C filter is behind the glovebox. XL and XLS have slightly different filter. Not hard to do if you take your time and get the exploded views. Change once a year.
6. Note difference between oil filter that came on the car (made in Japan) and the one Toyota sells you at the dealership (made in USA). Very interesting.
Let me know if I can be more help to anyone with a 2000 Avalon or younger.
The Glove Box comes out as one unit. You have to take down(very easy) the bottom plastic apron underneath first, then I believe there are about 5 screws to back out. It should all come out as one big unit. Just be careful with the plastic. The A/C filter you will see just in back of it.
To see these exploded views of the dash, look at the Service(not owners) manual. You may be able to see it at the parts department if they are nice, or you can purchase it. It is expensive however, worth it, if you keep the Avalon for years and do the maintenance yourself. I am unsure if the general repair manual have this in, but Clinton's for example may have it, and would be cheaper.
Don't be afraid of doing it, as long as you take your time and your are careful. It is NOT rocket science or surgery.
See post 2363. I'd imagine that steveb84 is correct, as he knows his Toyota business, and the press release on 04 Avalon pricing noted no changes to the engine. IMO, the 04 Avalon is a lame duck, and you are better off waiting for an 05, Who knows- maybe it arrives earlier than the typical Sept/Oct. timeframe, like the Corolla and Sienna did.
For Hitches, or Draw Tite Hitches(Brand), you can do a search on the internet. There are plenty of companies that sell the hitches and the Modulite lite wiring harnessess. Or, you can have U-haul sell you it and/or install it. The advantage to not having them touch you car and you doing it yourself, is ...#1. you can torque the bolts exactly like they are supposed to be torqued with a torque wrench, and #2. Even more important, is you can Rust Proof the hitch BEFORE you place it on the car, by spraying it with a couple cans of that rubberized undercoating. This will alleviate any rusty, ugly hitch in years to come. The Draw Tite model fits nicely under the lip of the of the fairing under the bumper. All you see is the receiver female plug.
I recently purchased a 2002 Avalon XL with about 12,000. miles. It has some standard OEM 205/65/15 Dunlop tires that have a bit of life left. The car has steel wheels with the standard XL wheel covers. This week I was successful in buying a set of 16 inch 2003 Avalon alloy wheels on ebay. My plan has always been to upgrade to 16 inch alloys when new tires were needed.
I am looking for feedback on a set of 16 radials. I know the upgraded Avalon XLS comes with 205/60/16 tires. I assume those will be acceptable on my XL but I was looking toward 215/60/16 or 215/55/16 for the next set. Living in Florida, wet traction is important, as well as, reasonably good mileage. I think I understand the concern for keeping the overall diameter of the new wheel and tire combination very close to the existing setup (for speedometer, etc.) I am expecting to pay $100.+ or so per tire. I have checked out Bridgestone RE950 but it is maybe more of a performance tire than I need. I am also looking at Michelin XGT H4 but it got some bad reviews for early excessive wear. Any comments or suggestions on tire size and/or manufacture and model? All positive and negative feedback welcome. Thanks.
Since you bought the 16" wheels, my advice depends alot if you are going to have someone recalibrate your computer for tire diameter. It can be done, but only by someone who is competent.
Saying that, the easiest and most linear thing to do, is to get a tire size 215/55 H 16. This overall diameter is EXACTLY the same as 205/65 H 15. You will get NO SPEEDO error. Additionally, the 55 seriies ideally requires a 7" wide wheel and I think the 16" Toyota rims are 6" or 6.5", so check with someone in the know with tires.
The caveat to this, is that it is a wider tire and lower profile, so it will give you a little stiffer ride, a little better steering response, and comes out a little of the rear splash guards if you have them.
The 950 Bridgestone is a fine tire as the Michelin. My feeling on tires is they are all good, but it depends on your circumstances and driving situation. Michelin and Goodyear are almost always overpriced. A rain tire would be better for you in Florida. Snow traction does not matter much. Wear rating may be a consideration. The Continental's (?CH95), in 215/55 H 16 are OEM for the E class Mercedes Benz. Same tire, same size. That should give you a decent upgrade.
If this does not suffice, then at an appropriate time, change the incompetent struts that come on the car, replacing them with ones(Tokico HP Gas)that are competent. You will notice a signaficant difference in you vehicle handling, braking(no more front dive at high speeds) without a significant difference in ride quality. Note the PSI tire pressure for the new tires and correlate that with the vehicle weight.
If you would, please expand on the requirement for recalibrating the computer for tire diameter. If the overall wheel and tire diameter of the new setup with 215/55/16 is the same as the old setup with 205/65/15, is recalibration required? Maybe, I just don't understand the computer calibration function relative to the wheel and tire size.
I was anticipating the firmer ride, steering response and slash guard issues. I had read your recommendation on the Tokico HP Gas struts in earlier posts and I will check into them.
pgabob47-If WET traction is most important to you, do NOT increase tire width. This greatly increases the risk of hydro-planing. Stick with the narrower 205/60-16. If you go wider, reduce the relative profile accordingly-DON'T mess with the speedo...there's NO need to!
TIRES? Read this board long enough, there will be a recommendation for each and every tire on the market. Everyone's needs/wants are different. I will be switching back to Yokohama Avid's. Go to tirerack.com They have tire ratings based on user input. People who have USED the tires rate their wet, dry, snow traction, noise, comfort, etc. Unfortuneately, like shoes, we can not try tires on. If you do go wider with the tires, you might be able to get into Goodrich "g-force" tires. I have driven on these on the track. They are awesome. (NOTE: It was DRY. I have NOT used them on WET pavement.)
STRUTS? I did a brief write up on the Tokico's in this forum. They are an excellent upgrade. However, I did notice when riding in the back seat, with my head on the headrest, trying to sleep, the car is almost too "sporty"/rigid. -nomad56-
nomad56 I agree that tirerack.com is an excellent resource for tire information from actual users. However, you are right in that you can find both negative and positive feedback on every tire based upon the user's specific requirements. I did double check the diameter and treadwidth value for the two sizes I am considering. My stock 205/65/15 has a diameter of 25.6 inches with a treadwidth of 6.9 inches. The 205/60/16 is 25.8 and 6.9. The 215/55/16 is 25.4 and 7.2. So, your point is well taken that the 55 profile provides a slight increase in treadwidth and hydro-planing becomes more of an issue.. I am assuming that if I go with either 16 size, the overall diameter is only changing 2/10 of an inch up or down. And since this is less than a 1 percent change, I don't need to screw around with recalibrating the computer or speedo, as you pointed out? Between this board, tirerack.com and my local dealers, I should have more than enough info to make a reasonably informed purchase. Thanks for your input.
Just a follow-up to the prior posts about tires for an Avalon. I have found that 1010tires.com is also a very useful Web site. Lots of feedback from users on most brands and models of tires. The reviews contain a somewhat subjective scoring system on traction, treadwear, etc. but still useful. For my 2002 Avalon, I am leaning toward a set of 16 inch Michelin X-One or Harmony or a new model, Hydroedge. All run about $100. Any experience, good or bad, from any forum member on any of these models?
I purchased an XL in 2001 and have had many problems. The first was a strut problem, now replaced 4 times. Just recently my alternator went out. I only have 35,000 miles on my car!!. I'm lucky it was covered under warranty. Anyone else have these problems. I'm thinking of filing it as a lemon. Let me know.
Just curious, what are the "many" problems. The alternator is a fluke. Some go 200,000 miles and some go 200 miles. What is the problem with the STRUT? Same one 4 times??? It seems the actual "cause" has not been addressed???? Be more specific. I have done a LOT of suspension work on my Avy.
Based on the comments of all on these boards over a very long time, you are about 100 times as likely to get a poor dealership as you are a poor quality Avalon. Yes, anybody can produce a lemon once in a while, but these posts say it seldom happens with Avalon. This is a quality car built to be trouble free for years. They do have problems, yes. Struts and XLS AC auto-temp controls are good examples. But, no car is a lemon if the struts go bad under warranty or the AC temp is off a little. Repeated failures might suggest a new dealer is needed, and, of course, a call to Toyota might help. Loved my '99 and the '03 has passed 21k, perfect so far. Enjoy your Av....
My 04 XLS was built Aug 4th, but delivery not until Sept 15. The board is correct, no changes noted on the 2004 model than the 2003. Matter of fact, I orderred off a 2003 order sheet but missed the last custom order date by a couple of days. Got every single option except the stability control, which I should have got for my kids, for I plan to let them drive the car in three years. This is a change for me after 3 Saabs in a row. The car mags and consumer reports states that the stability control is a fantastic system and will save a lot of accidents. Even states that they would skip a sunroof anyday for the stability control, but I don't know if those guys ever have any fun. Oh well, I have waited six months already, have a S2000 for a weekend car and been using for an everyday driver.
after several months of driving cross country for my work it has proven to be a real body saver of a car. I haven't been able to travel in such comfort with the other cars I've owned over the last number of years in this job. The seats are simply superb as they don't cut into my leg and offer extra lumbar support (just what us aging bad back folks need). About the ONLY things I've found are weaknesses are the lack of proper gearing on the tranny(although I've discovered it helps when you're planning on a quick pass to disengage the overdrive) and the fact it doesn't corner like a "sports sedan" might. But it sure makes up for it on the general country and highway driving to be sure. The stereo continues to amaze me with it's full spectrum fidelity. Sure the air conditioning is querky, but once you figure out how to get what you want out of it it works perfectly well. I've also noticed a LOT of wind noise when you headed into the wind at 80mph (general interstate speeds) and this surprises me as I was under the impression that was one of the hallmarks of this model (low wind noise with extra insulation). But with all that aside it's been a wonderful traveling companion. :-)
I agree with your assessment except for the wind noise. Maybe I rarely drive over 80 miles per hour. My one complaint is sometimes the car feels like it is bottoming out going over speed bumps or moderate undulations. Perhaps my 2000 XLS with 30,000 miles is due for new shocks.
The JBL sound system is incredible, and to double your pleasure on your long drives, may I suggest the CD Josh Brogan. It is a collection of of "comtemporary" operatic ballads sung both in Italian and English by a young American singer Josh Brogan. My favorite tracks: 1. Alla luce del sole 3. You still you 5. To where you are (he performed that on the Oprah Winfrey show) 9. Starry, starry night 10. Un amore per sempre Enjoy!
Comments
nguyet "Toyota Avalon Maintenance" Jan 10, 2003 10:59am
- one of the best if not the best long distance cruisers ever, and I've had a few.
- about 29 mpg, on a car with just 1k miles.
- only problem is that I was constantly fiddling with the manual AC dials, almost worth buying the extraneious bells and whistles just to get the auto temo control.
~alpha
It is almost always feezing even when you offset the ac by boosting the temperature control to provide more heat to offset the cold (I have to set the "auto" temperature at about 85 degrees to begin to be comfortable.
Is there a fix or a TSB for this?
How are you? Super I hope!
Anyhow, that's what puzzles me about the Camry, but you do have a good point that they're both built at the same plant in KY! Have a great weekend!
Sunshine60105!
Again, like I said, compared to Avalon and Highlander, you could purchase a high end Camry and have $$$, if you are really concerned, buy the premium extended warranty.
~alpha
What is the current holdback percent on this model and should I subtract all or part from my offering price?
I like the Avalon XLS climate control, in hot weather it runs the fan on slow, closes the outside air and cools the car. In a mile or two the fan speeds up and the outside is turned on. It does take a few miles or about 5 minutes till things get cool, and then gradually as the temp reaches the set temp on the dash, then the fan blower slows down and if get warm, say by opening a window the fan will speed up to take care of the needed cooling. My biggest problem is my wife wants to manipulate the blower speed, air intake and that takes it off of Auto. I would smack her, but she bruises too easily, much bigger problem! Driving happily in Pennsylvnia.
Trailering up to 2000lbs it is rated, with a tongue weight of I believe 300lbs but check this. You would be best served to hook up a Modulite light wiring harness for a small trailer, and wire it internally through the car. This way you can flap the plug inside instead of letting it dangle outside. This is a direct hook up to the battery. Find a reliable electric auto guy to do this. The hitch can be done by a driveway mechanic. Mine came out perfect.
#2347. What maitenance items are you referring to??? Do you intend to do them all yourself?? Oil changes every 5K, transmission at 60K then every 30K, change the A/C Filter every year, by taking the glove box out. Be more specific and I would be able to give you a better answer.
Anyway, here are some general rules quick.
1. Anything you can do yourself, do. It is cheaper, and you will have the satifaction of knowing it is done correctly. Yes, the oil filter is right under the manifold. Get some mechanics gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
2. There was NO demonstrable difference, measured by a micrometer, in NYC Taxi engines, taken apart after 200K, whether you changed the oil at 3K or 5K. Sooo. unless you like doing it, or get a warm and fuzzy, I would suggest doing it (oil) every 5K, regularly, and I mean regularly. To back this up further, my last car, sold to another soldier here on base (1990 Honda Civic EX) bought new, had 236K on it. It burned about 1/2 a quart every 5K miles. How many people keep their autos longer than this?????(11.5 years with 236K). Point. 5K is fine.
3. I do not have a problem with someone else doing it as long as they are competent. It is not rocket science. The problem is that most who do it, don't really care about your 30K machine. Find someone who cares a little about their work.
4. ATF-No toyota recommendations from corporation. Maybe by dealerships for $70. Honda recommends for SEVERE driving, change (not flush) at 60K, and then every 30K thereafter.
5. A/C filter is behind the glovebox. XL and XLS have slightly different filter. Not hard to do if you take your time and get the exploded views. Change once a year.
6. Note difference between oil filter that came on the car (made in Japan) and the one Toyota sells you at the dealership (made in USA). Very interesting.
Let me know if I can be more help to anyone with a 2000 Avalon or younger.
views (glove box) for the 2001 XL ?
the glove box ?
Thanks,
cusafr
To see these exploded views of the dash, look at the Service(not owners) manual. You may be able to see it at the parts department if they are nice, or you can purchase it. It is expensive however, worth it, if you keep the Avalon for years and do the maintenance yourself. I am unsure if the general repair manual have this in, but Clinton's for example may have it, and would be cheaper.
Don't be afraid of doing it, as long as you take your time and your are careful. It is NOT rocket science or surgery.
A.Fisch
There is no engine change.
Or you could get a Camry SE or Lexus ES330.
~alpha
For Hitches, or Draw Tite Hitches(Brand), you can do a search on the internet. There are plenty of companies that sell the hitches and the Modulite lite wiring harnessess. Or, you can have U-haul sell you it and/or install it. The advantage to not having them touch you car and you doing it yourself, is ...#1. you can torque the bolts exactly like they are supposed to be torqued with a torque wrench, and #2. Even more important, is you can Rust Proof the hitch BEFORE you place it on the car, by spraying it with a couple cans of that rubberized undercoating. This will alleviate any rusty, ugly hitch in years to come. The Draw Tite model fits nicely under the lip of the of the fairing under the bumper. All you see is the receiver female plug.
I am looking for feedback on a set of 16 radials. I know the upgraded Avalon XLS comes with 205/60/16 tires. I assume those will be acceptable on my XL but I was looking toward 215/60/16 or 215/55/16 for the next set. Living in Florida, wet traction is important, as well as, reasonably good mileage. I think I understand the concern for keeping the overall diameter of the new wheel and tire combination very close to the existing setup (for speedometer, etc.) I am expecting to pay $100.+ or so per tire. I have checked out Bridgestone RE950 but it is maybe more of a performance tire than I need. I am also looking at Michelin XGT H4 but it got some bad reviews for early excessive wear. Any comments or suggestions on tire size and/or manufacture and model? All positive and negative feedback welcome. Thanks.
Since you bought the 16" wheels, my advice depends alot if you are going to have someone recalibrate your computer for tire diameter. It can be done, but only by someone who is competent.
Saying that, the easiest and most linear thing to do, is to get a tire size 215/55 H 16. This overall diameter is EXACTLY the same as 205/65 H 15. You will get NO SPEEDO error. Additionally, the 55 seriies ideally requires a 7" wide wheel and I think the 16" Toyota rims are 6" or 6.5", so check with someone in the know with tires.
The caveat to this, is that it is a wider tire and lower profile, so it will give you a little stiffer ride, a little better steering response, and comes out a little of the rear splash guards if you have them.
The 950 Bridgestone is a fine tire as the Michelin. My feeling on tires is they are all good, but it depends on your circumstances and driving situation. Michelin and Goodyear are almost always overpriced. A rain tire would be better for you in Florida. Snow traction does not matter much. Wear rating may be a consideration. The Continental's (?CH95), in 215/55 H 16 are OEM for the E class Mercedes Benz. Same tire, same size. That should give you a decent upgrade.
If this does not suffice, then at an appropriate time, change the incompetent struts that come on the car, replacing them with ones(Tokico HP Gas)that are competent. You will notice a signaficant difference in you vehicle handling, braking(no more front dive at high speeds) without a significant difference in ride quality. Note the PSI tire pressure for the new tires and correlate that with the vehicle weight.
Hope this helps.
If you would, please expand on the requirement for recalibrating the computer for tire diameter. If the overall wheel and tire diameter of the new setup with 215/55/16 is the same as the old setup with 205/65/15, is recalibration required? Maybe, I just don't understand the computer calibration function relative to the wheel and tire size.
I was anticipating the firmer ride, steering response and slash guard issues. I had read your recommendation on the Tokico HP Gas struts in earlier posts and I will check into them.
Your input helps, thanks.
TIRES? Read this board long enough, there will be a recommendation for each and every tire on the market. Everyone's needs/wants are different. I will be switching back to Yokohama Avid's. Go to tirerack.com They have tire ratings based on user input. People who have USED the tires rate their wet, dry, snow traction, noise, comfort, etc. Unfortuneately, like shoes, we can not try tires on. If you do go wider with the tires, you might be able to get into Goodrich "g-force" tires. I have driven on these on the track. They are awesome. (NOTE: It was DRY. I have NOT used them on WET pavement.)
STRUTS? I did a brief write up on the Tokico's in this forum. They are an excellent upgrade. However, I did notice when riding in the back seat, with my head on the headrest, trying to sleep, the car is almost too "sporty"/rigid. -nomad56-
Replacement of the same or all struts on a 2 - 3 year old Toyota could draw the attention of their Zone Service Org.
The likelihood of the problem sequence you posted based on generalized Avy defect statistics is very, very, very, very low. ( 4 verys )
If it's true, then the problem isn't the Avy, it could be your dealership and you should be on the phone to Toyota National Customer Support.
I agree with your assessment except for the wind noise. Maybe I rarely drive over 80 miles per hour. My one complaint is sometimes the car feels like it is bottoming out going over speed bumps or moderate undulations. Perhaps my 2000 XLS with 30,000 miles is due for new shocks.
The JBL sound system is incredible, and to double your pleasure on your long drives, may I suggest the CD Josh Brogan. It is a collection of of "comtemporary" operatic ballads sung both in Italian and English by a young American singer Josh Brogan. My favorite tracks:
1. Alla luce del sole
3. You still you
5. To where you are (he performed that on the Oprah Winfrey show)
9. Starry, starry night
10. Un amore per sempre
Enjoy!
Low speeds banging from rear end passenger side when going over bumps.
Anyone else have any comments/similar problems?
Thanks