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http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/Nissan/2004/NTB04-140.htm
That brought it closer for me, but it did not get it out.
I used an unsharpened pencil with a drop of superglue on the end to bring the dipstick up as high as it would go (pulled it hard and fast). It stopped and the pencil broke free, but it stayed put about an inch or so from the tope of the diptube. I was then able to drill a small hole into the plastic so that I could then turn a deck screw (or drywall screw or any other type of self-tapping screw) into the plastic a couple of turns. The screw held on well enough that I could pull it out the rest of the way.
The dealer wanted $275 to drop the oil pan. He acted like he had not even heard of the Tech service bulletin. (I think he had). Or else he was going to pull it out like I did and charge me for the oilpan removal. He said the dipsticks did not break that often, but the parts counter man said that a lot of people are buying replacements because they have borken dipsticks.
The said part is that they sell you the same cheapo dipstick....no improvement!
The valve is about the size of a cup.
Hope this helps.
Anyway, the problem is with a bad resistor, I could replace it myself, but I have no idea where it is located. I was advised that it should be somewhere underneath the glove compartment, but when I looked underneath I saw several bolts that I don't know which is which. Would the resistor be behind something or would it be directly in view? Thanks!
I've been averaging 36 mpg hwy and about 32 city with the airconditioner on. The stereo keeps me wholly entertained. I have read that the styling is outdated the dash is boring, not powerful enough...maybe true, but the darn thing is not boring. It is peppy, and not boy racerish...who'd a thunk it? I actually like this little red car...so far so good...i'll keep you updated around 10K miles...
My only criticism of the car is that I think the highway fuel economy could be higher if the 5th gear were geared more for economy than for power. (My mother has a similar automatic which runs at lower RPM's at higher speeds than my 5-speed.) However, if performance is your concern, it is hard to argue with a car which you almost never have to shift down to climb hills.
I have just finished shopping for a replacement vehicle. I seriously considered a Corolla and Civic. I have opted for another Sentra, even though it is a bit outdated and a bit smaller on the inside than the Honda and Toyota. For $13,000, I got the 2005 Sentra 1.8S 5-speed with the Special Edition package (Rockford Fosgate 300 Watt AM/FM/6 CD changer 9 speaker with subwoofer, 16" alloy wheels, fog lights, rear spoiler, etc.) and some miscellaneous options. I couldn't justify paying 25% more for a Honda or Toyota especially since I couldn't find either in a 5 speed at the end of the model year. For the price and features, I don't think the Sentra can be beat.
from not sure what todo
My 2001 nissan sentra GXE started having big time performance issues- like not being able accelerate very quickly and making funny popcorn popping like noises in the muffler region of my car. The check engine soon light was on as well so I brought it to my local mechanics who have done a great job for all of my cars.
They inspected the engine light and multiple codes came on. They cleared the codes, took it on a road test and only the 02 sensor & engine lean codes came back. My car had a engine misfire from Cylinder #1 and they replaced the 02 sensor, 4 spark plugs, and cylinder #1 coil and they cleared the codes. They took it on a test drive and the codes did not return. When I went to pick up my car after work as soon as I turned the car on the check engine light came on. I left it for the mechanics to keep working on. They told me that the error was still indicating a bad 02 sensor even thought they had just replaced it. They put another one in- cleared it- drove it and the light came back on- they put in a 3rd new one- drove it for 5 miles and it did not come back on. So I pick it up again and drive home and 6 miles down the road the light comes back on. I brought it back to them this morning.
Anyone else have or have heard of this problem where 02 sensors that are new keep causing the check engine light to come back on?
All of the performance issues are gone since they worked on it the first time- its just that stupid check engine light that keeps coming on, and I need it to stay off because you can't pass emmisions inspection in AZ with it on.
Thanks
-Daniel
Last week my car decided to take a sick day, and I had to have it towed to a mechanic. They looked it over and found a wire that had been corroded through. They cut out and replaced the rotten bit and hey presto my car works again. The interesting bit is that the check engine light is now off as well, coincidence? I think not.
This is not the first wiring harness problem I've had with this car. I bought the car brand new in Jan 01. Since then I've had numerous wiring faults. First the horn started sounding funny and then stopped entirely. Just over 2 years ago (July 03) I had a similar wiring fault that stopped my car because of a corroded/broken wire to the ECM, and since last fall the backlight on my radio hasn't been working unless its very humid. I haven't seen fit to fix all these problems, but it seems a bit unreasonable to me to have this many electrical problems in a car under 5 years old.
1) I wonder if Daniel in AZ is experiencing something similar in his wiring harness.
2) I wonder if there are other 01 Sentra owners out there that are having similar difficulties with their wiring harness. I think this has to be a manufacturing fault, and its getting long past time I had a stern conversation with Nissan Motor Company.
I own a 2001 Nissan Sentra since Feb 2005. I bought this car for about $6000
from the first owner and its currently 38000 Miles driven. It gives me a mileage
of about 26-27 city and 30-32 trips. Everything was fine till the time I noticed
that whenever I drive the sedan at speeds above 70mph for a prolonged duration
of time like 30 mins or more or I keep the AC/Heater on for the same duration or
more; the check engine light starts glowing....
I had taken my sedan to the dealer a couple of times but they were not able to
figure out the problem initially...Recently when I faced the same problem again,
dealer told me that its the AIR FLOW METER/SENSOR thats causing the check engine light to glow up when I drive it at the above mentioned speed or above for a
prolonged duration of time. Dealer says that the replacement cost of this part is
around $900.
Can anyone of you help me out with the fact that what exactly does the AIR FLOW
METER/SENSOR do in a car and what is its importance. Is it advisable to get the
part changed as mentioned by the dealer. What if I don't change the part....is
it going to affect the performance of my engine and mileage would start falling
gradually....
Please please help!!!
I appreciate your cooperation.
Of course this doesn't guarantee a drivable, working car. I am still yet a little nervous about driving my car until I know it is fixed properly, and the dealership claims it has been done, although I know for myself that it has not. Any sugestions as to how to bully a dealership into listening to a customer complaint? I have my research in line, but I feel they don't take me seriously as I am a young woman.
also, if you have to get it replaced, and 5-12 months down the road the same kind of performance problem happens without the check light coming on (i think nissan permanently cleared the code on my last cat replace, "i'm sure they know about this problem"). then it may be the converter again, as it has been in my case. damn shame, i like the car, but this is rapidly becoming a nissan nightmare. I have one more payment and was looking forward to no car payment for awhile-afterall it is a nissan right- yeah right- these cars use to get 100,000 with few probs and being beat on, now at 50k (mind you these are california hyway dry miles) i'm looking to dump- i'll make sure that when i get my 6k on tradein i tell all the people i know not to buy my nissan even though it seems like a good deal. also, if the service department says " the computer says it is fine" insist that they drive the car as if it were their own- then they will be able to tell you have a serious problem.
hope this helps .
Does anyone have any suggestions about looking into purchasing a sentra, they seem like great cars to me, but i just wanna be sure. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
Cheers
The yellow part is there but the metal blad is gone. Can you help me since you had the same problem. How did you fix it? Any info that you could give me would be appreciated.
HELP
I don't know if it's fixed, but I'm selling.
Blessings, MK
Thanks, MK
tnx.
madown.
-Anoop
I have a 2000 Nissan Sentra XE 75k miles. I have been noticing a problem the past couple of weeks. Whenever I start the car after it's been sitting for a couple hours (after work or in the morning heading to work) it seems to lose almost all power when I attempt to accelerate and then after a few seconds it "catches up" and the RPM's go way up and then it is fine. When it does catch up the car jerks violently and the engine seems to rev up and back down and back up etc for about 5 seconds before it starts funning normally. After that I don't notice any problems while driving. I drive up a huge hill on the way to work about 5 minutes after my house and don't notice any sort of performance problems while climbing that. It's only when the car first starts and is cold. Also, if I let the car warm up for a couple minutes I never have this problem. However, it seems like something that shouldn't be ignored and I would like to find out what the problem is. Any helpful hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
From reading about this problem I figure it must be either the switch or the resistor at the blower fan unit. Anyone had this issue. If I can solve this for her life will be good. Thanks for you help.
sentras are great cars, now i have a 2003 sentra ser spec v and it flies like a rocket.
I hope nissan never discontinues this model, it is awesome, also my girlfriend drives a 2004 sentra 1.8 s...
I too have a 2001 Sentra GXE. The horn has stopped working and the relay/fuse/and horn(when powered directly) are all working. It has to been in the wiring or contact in the steering wheel.
I was just hoping you'd found the weak link in these cars and save me some major disassembly!
Cheers,
-Cori
Good Luck
with automatic tranny.
How do you like the car?
Does the car have adaquete accelleration - especially on freeway on ramps?
Is the stereo system high quality?
Is the car quiet at freeway cruising speed?
This must have good gas mileage, but it runs only 20 miles per gallon.
Previous owner has driven this car in Wisconsin for at least two years, and now I am driving in California.
Transmission fluid, oil chage, new brake pads, air filter (K&N), cabin air filter and wheel alignment has been done since I got it. No way to replace fule filter for this car.
I am going to replace spark plugs.
It has 17 inch wheel, but I don't think it affects that much.
Anybody knows what the problem is?
How can I improve the MPG?
The sounds you're hearing when the car cools down, is it a "crackling" sound (almost like a fried egg cooking in a hot pan)? If so, I have the same "problem" and I've encountered two other persons who experience the same thing. My dealer told me it's the "normal" sounds the heat shields make when the shields are cooling down.
However, my car also makes the same crackling sound when the car is in operation. My dealer (White Plains Nissan in White Plains, NY) told me that the heat shields needed adjusting (which they adjusted at no charge) and warned me that when parking in lots with those concrete bars on the floor, to be extra careful and avoid having the front end of the car rub up against them. The front heat shield, so they tell me, is easily knocked out of place by these bars. Well, not sure if I've helped you any. I think the Sentras are poorly built and this is my last Nissan, too! Good luck to you and let me know how this all turns out for you.
Can anyone please help me find the problem:
Car was running fine...my brother put the cap on wrong and it cracked the cap and now it wont start. I replaced cap and rotor and it almost starts but wont completely fire up and run.
I dont have the manual and know a bit about cars. I used a haynes manuel...too broad...but I traced it to either a transistor connected to the coil or Im guessing it damaged the ignition modual inside the distributor. I dont have the manuel to test and check either one.
Maybe someone can please help me or tell me how to test it.
Ive got spark from the coil....and very weak spark to the plugs. Im sure the coil is working fine as tested and grounded...has hot spark.
I dont know if the circuit that acts like the points could have went bad or if the ignition module inside the distributor is bad. I tested the plug to it...it has 5 volt reference signal and 12volt power...plug seems fine.
This all happend after he went for a drive and it worked and ran great. He took off the cap and checked the rotor as it was loose and moved before (didnt have the hold down screw) but I found that the rotor had slipped and was off when firing..hence the poping and loss of power. So I repostioned the rotor where it should be but didnt have the screw yet to keep it in place.
It ran great!.....so after driving it.....he pulled the cap off to check if the rotor had moved....he must have put the cap on the distributor back on wrong...he started it up and it cracked the cap and the rotor chewed up the inside terminals.
After that, I replaced with new cap and rotor and rotor hold down screw.....NOW the car wants to start up but wont!
Please any suggestions!
Thanks in advance and sorry for the long discription of the problem.
I wish I had the manuel to test.
Thankyou!!
Eric