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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier



  • lgoldinlgoldin Posts: 90
    That's might be right what you are saying, but this you are in a wrong thread. More appropriate would be "Elantra vs. ???" if you wish.
  • bobcatbobbobcatbob Posts: 187
    The Spec V is the only SE-R to get the "special lava colored interior appointments." As I speculated last week, I think interior of the base SE-R will be more like the 2001 Sentra.

    Also on, Nissan introduced all of the X-Terra, Frontier ans Sentra...With the exception of both SE-R models. What is the deal with that?
  • camryv6camryv6 Posts: 42
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    I would buy a Hyundai too IF I didn't own a 1988 Excel before. I kept telling myself that newer ones a much much better built. But the older Hyundai gave me a very bad impression/experience. I didn't need the power Elantra offers (140+HP, extra goodies). I don't want to see either frontal airbags or side airbags to go off on me. Several friends had told me that it's NOT a good feeling.
    That's why I got a Sentra GXE.
    GXE is in the same price range as the base model Elantra.
  • mdrivermdriver Posts: 385
    It's also not a good feeling when one's steering wheel meets one's teeth. An air bag may bruise you but at least you will increase your survival chances.

    1988 Excel? If I was talking about the reliability of, say, a new Focus, maybe I should imply that they are still unreliable because the Model T was also unreliable. Beleive it or not, Toyotas had a reputation for junk up until about the mid seventies.
  • abbaabba Posts: 17
    Just took home my new Sentra SE. This car re-defines the term "econosport". Great value, reliability and fun! It looks much better than photos suggest too.

    Prospective buyers should know that Nissan is offering $500 rebates on all Sentra models.

    By the way, I've NEVER seen ANY reliability reports that ranked the Elantra and Sentra the same, as claimed in eariler posts. I'll put my long term trust in a Nissan over a Hyundai any day.
  • dannym11dannym11 Posts: 18
    enjoy your ride. You might want to check out - it's a decent site with plenty of info.
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Regarding the Hyundai vs. Nissan issue, no doubt Nissan has a better reputation for reliability, but I'm sure Hyundai wants to catch up and that warranty gives you some piece of mind. But I wonder how different reliability ratings would be for Automatic vs. 5-spd Hyundai Elantras. I would guess that the 5 spd is more reliable. Automatics are complicated to start with, and while most manufacturers can make good 5-spds, many still have problems making a durable automatic. From the posts in the Elantra discussion boards, they've been pretty reliable, especially the 5-spds. While Hyundai's warranty is nice, you don't really want to use it often. It's a pain in the rear. If your car breaks down, you have to leave it at the dealer, get a rental and then get the car back later. It's much nicer to not have to take the car into the dealer at all.

    When I bought my Sentra SE I looked and drove the Elantra. While the engine and shifter were ok, the brakes were mushy and didn't inspire confidence. I do like the Elantra's design and have to applaud Hyundai's efforts to bring a good car with a very reasonable price tag to such a competitive market. And if you do get a Hyundai, you can't sell it before the warranty expires. Your car is going to have very bad resale value. It would be better to keep it longer. The powertrain warranty is for 100k miles anyway.
  • erhein2erhein2 Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 GXE which my daughter drives to school. Recently she had an accident where someone hit her broadside and, since she was traveling forward at the time, damage was done all down the pasenger side from the front wheel to the rear wheel. The car has been repaired, but it is not handling correctly. When it travels over a "dip" in the road surface which causes the front suspension to travel down, then up, as the suspension travels down, the steering wheel turns sharply to the right. I'm told that an alignment was done and double checked, but, clearly something is still not right. Does this possibly ring a bell with someone who knows suspensions? We've got it going back in tomorrow to be checked again. Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  • corkfishcorkfish Posts: 537
    I don't care what anyone says, if the frame was bent on a car it'll never be the same. They can straighten it out alright so everything measures up, but under various circumstances a defect will make itself known.
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    Maybe the frame is damaged/bent and not corrected ( I've heard that it's impossible to do a 100% correction).
  • nofeernofeer Posts: 381
    What do you think, when was the sentra redesign, if there a better year (price conscious). i figured 98 with abs and 5sp. any problem areas, should i look elsewhere and not sentra. book values are cheaper than civics and corollas. does gxe come with abs or option? what are my chances of getting a 5sp with abs and what model should i be looking for
  • jl30jl30 Posts: 11
    The B14 Sentra was introduced in 1995. The 98 should be a reliable car. ABS is optional on the 98 GXE. I think 98 with ABS and 5sp may exist but it is hard to find. For more reliability info on the car, you can go to Good luck.
  • jl30jl30 Posts: 11
    Is the SE being dropped in 2002? Replaced by the SE-R and SE-R Vspec?
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    It'll get replaced by the SE-R and given Nissan's crazy pricing of the Altima, figure it'll sticked OVER 20k.
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    There is no way the Sentra SE-R will cost 20k, much more than a base Altima with manual trans only has an MSRP of $16349 all the way upto $23149 for the Altima SE with the V6. The base engine is rated at 175hp/180 ft lb of torque.

    Check out for the full pricing announcement on the Altima. The Sentra SE R should be arount $16500 for the SE R and probably $1000 more for the SE R Spec V. That sounds about right. The Altima is bigger but has all the same basic features of the Se-r (engine, transmission, brakes) so prices should be comparable. The only thing the SE-Rs will have over base Altimas is the sport suspension.

    The Altima has extremely competitive pricing. I can't wait to check it out in the flesh. I just hope it has better plastics in the interior than the Sentra. All the plastic in the sentra is so hard! Gone are those foam backed vinyl coverings. The plastic looks decent, but I think Nissan should've used Vinyl some more.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    "The Altima has extremely competitive pricing. I can't wait to check it out in the flesh. I just hope it has better plastics in the interior than the Sentra. All the plastic in the sentra is so hard! Gone are those foam backed vinyl coverings. The plastic looks decent, but I think Nissan should've used Vinyl some more. "

    A 5 speed 3.5SE altima with just sunroof, leather and the bose (don't want it but Nissan demands it with the leather/sunroof) rings in at 26k. That's obscenely priced considering even a junky Accord comes with slightly better interior, leather and ABS for 25k. BTW, the Altima's interior makes the sentra's look positively luxurious. It's really cold and hard. If Nissan truly aimed at the Passat's interior, they missed. By a long shot.

    Given the obscene pricing Nissan assigned to the Altima, it seems likely they'll sticker a fully in ABS/SRS, moonroof, etc Sentra Spec-V over 20k.
  • erhein2erhein2 Posts: 11
    I just thought I'd post a follow-up on the damage to my daughter's GXE. If you remember, it had been hit and had some pretty bad bump steer after it was repaired. We took it back to the shop that did the repair and they started going back through the parts they had replaced. They found that the steering knuckle they had bought from Nissan had a chip, or gouge, or something and wouldn't seat (it that's the right term) properly. They replaced it with one that wasn't defective and all is well. With all of the complicated things it could have been, I'm glad it was something relatively simple and so easily fixed. Thanks to those who offered suggestins.
  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    Love my SE but made the mistake of checking out the new Acura RSX Type S....the weight vs. horsepower ratio is similar to the Prelude; (2750)
    wondering what the weight on the Spec-V and SE-R is projected to be...if they are LIGHTER than my SE, say about 2500 lbs, it could be comparable in performance to the Type-S; if it's as heavy as my SE (2740) then I guess the six-speed 200hp Acura will be faster.
    Any thoughts out there, fellow Sentraites?
    Note: projected 0-60 for the Type S: 6.9 seconds,
    for the base RSX (160hp) 8.1 seconds.....
  • cyranno99cyranno99 Posts: 419
    It's unlikely that the SE-R will be lighter since the engine is significantly larger. The Sentra is almost as long as the current Maxima. I know since we usually park those two cars side by side. The Sentra would still beat the RSX in terms of pricing and probably maintenance costs. I saw a sticker price for a base RSX to be 22k.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The new 2.5L is actually lighter and takes up less space than the current SR20 2.0L. Blueguy-- there will be no more SE, it will be replaced by the SE-R.
  • mdrivermdriver Posts: 385
    I wonder what the mileage will be on the 2.5? If it's as low as 22mpg, then the Sentra is losing its economy ability. The base RSX with its 27/33 mpg is very competitive given it's only 5HP less.
  • Personally I am shocked that Nissan has decided to drop the SE2.0, Something tells me there is going to be a few people that want a little more power than the base engine found in the XE/GXE, and not as much as the SE-R's 180. Take for example Volkswagon....they offer three distinct engines in many of their smaller cars, the 2.0 115horse beater/a turbo 1.8 150-180hp/and a VR6 in line 6 cylinder 174-201hp. As far as I know they all sell very well. I think Nissan could still sell many 145hp 2.0's if they offered them. What does everyone else think?
  • I think that the SE-R is the best thing for Nissan to do... Now they have a high powered vehicle that's small and sporty... and economical. Without a doubt, it is probably the best "Bang for Buck" car for driving enthusiasts.

    Now that they have introduced the 2.5 SE-R and SE-R Vspec, there realy is no reason for the 2.0 SE anymore... It only got 10 more horses than the 1.8 XE or GXE, and it will be only a little less than the upcomming SE-r with 170 hp.

    I love my GXE. Wish I got the Manual instead of the Automatic, but I have my old Toyota for fun riding like that... my GXE is something my wife and I can feel safe in, while I can still get a good amount of fun out of the car.

    Only complaint: The car feels very stiff on the road. Every bump and crack in the road we feel in the cabin. I agree it's not like riding on a lumber truck, but it's deffinatly rough... But when we load the car up (With 4 people plus luggage) the ride becomes much smother... Is there anything I can do, besides add some weights to the backseat, to smooth out the ride?

  • Its engine was far too sluggish. The car desperately needs the 175 hp engine.

    As for VW, the 2.slow fills in the low market just like the 1.8 does with the Sentra. The 1.8T and VR6 are really more performance oriented for those who want some go-juice with their car. The 1.8T offers the compromise of lightness and performance, with easy upgrades for even more power. The VR6 fills in a space for more of a luxurious, sweet, easy pulling feel that Jetta GLX buyers seem to like, regardless of the fact one really can't mod the engine much and that it weighs more than the 1.8T.

    BTW, VW AG drops that 1.8T in 6 American released cars (GTI, Beetle, Jetta, Passat, TT, A4). And unlike the 2.slow, the 1.8T is known to be a great engine (Ward's names it among the 10 best every year).
  • Hello again,
    I have the 2001 Sentra SE 2.0 and I find the 145 hp engine really powerful, but a bit noisy in the drivetrain. If I drive somewhat sanely, I see mileage in excess of 30 mpg constantly. The 170 to 180 horsepower will be nice, but at what expense? Nothing is free. I wonder if these new engines require premium fuel? I am sure that this is the case with the 200 hp Acura RSX. Most of Acura's cars require premium fuel anyway. The only exception being the base CL and TL with the 225 hp engines, but they would run better with premium fuel.

    For what I spent, $15,101 + tax and license, it is hard to find a better bang-forthe-buck vehicle. I am really satisfied. To date, I have done the K&N air filter, synthetic transmission fluid, synthetic engine oil, larger oil filter with check valve, and a set of FIAMM horns. One is the FIAMM LOW TONE, (which is the EXACT horn that came standard on my car), and then a HIGH tone unit that I mounted right next to the low one. The difference is DRAMATIC. I changed BOTH horns. My original horn sounded pretty weak. FIAMM calls them code "E" and "F". They are available at Pep Boys or Autozone.It sounds like a German import car. All told, that modification cost about 50 bucks, and 1 hour of labor. Nothing was cut, and it all looks professional.

    In short, I like my SE just as it is. I will not be able to get anything newer at the price that I paid on this car.
  • Hello Everyone,
    I FINALLY picked up my car from the dealership here in San Diego today, and I can tell you that it is really cold. It seems that they changed the filter drier, the entire evaporator, the orifice tube, 2 o-rings, and the electronic amplifier that controls the compressor operation. After a full charge of R-134A, all seems well. $400 dollars worth of parts and labor (free of course for me), and it is ice cold. Plus I see water running from under the car again. We are right here at sea level, so I expected to see some humidity dripping off of the evaporator. I did not see that before, so wish me the best.

    I also got a chance to see the new 2002 ALTIMA at the dealership. VERY NICE INDEED!! All but the price. A 2.5 "S" model with cloth seats and 4 cylinder 170 hp engine was over 20,000 MSRP, plus they were asking $2000.00 over sticker. I won't get one at that price. I also got to see a 2.5 "SL" with 4 cylinder and leather, ABS, air bags in front and overhead for 24,000 MSRP + 2000 mark-up for being a new vehicle. I can almost get into a new 2001 MAXIMA for that kind of cash. I will wait until this model cools down. I would also hate to see how much more the 240 hp 6 cylinder model will cost. The new ALTIMA is as big as an older Maxima. Time will tell if people are willing to spend that much for an Altima. As for me, I'LL WAIT!!
    Thanks again,

  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    I too test drove the 4 cyl Altima 2.5 S over the weekend. Although there was no markup at Empire Nissan in Ontario, CA, he said they were selling very quickly. The 2.5 feels good, but revs a bit too easy. It's pretty quiet, more so than our 2.0L SR20DE. Without even trying I had the engine upto 4.5-5k rpms. I'm sure that that Altima has been abused already since it's the only 5 spd on the lot. It's really big inside, and I think Nissan is taking a big risk making it bigger than the current Maxima. People aren't going to go for the Maxima just because they can get Xenon lights standard and a DVD navigation system as an option. The 6 spd transmission is nice though. The 5 spd V6 Altima would definitely be the one to get if it were reasonably priced. The Altima though is a very big improvement. It handles well, and the interior is nice. Still some hard Nissan plastic around though.

    I note that you changed your horns. How difficult was it? I want to as well. How did you put two horns in when there's only wiring for one? Did you splice them or something? And how did you mount the other one right next to the OEM horn? Thanks,
  • To Narenji,
    Hello again, and thanks for such a quick response. As I said earlier, the FIAMM horns were easy to install. I found out that we already have the LOW tone FIAMM horn on our cars. All you really need is the HIGH tone horn and you are in business.

    I did not want to cut and splice wiring, so I got a terminal set with 2 male and 1 female ends on one terminal. That allows the original black wire to plug in to it,(male end, plus it has another male end for another wire to connect to it.) The part that connects to the original horn is female. I did have to buy some extra wire. The female "slide" terminals to attach to the horns, and I bought thicker 12 gauge wire instead of thin 16 or 18 guage wire. The big wire carries more current, which makes for a louder horn. Just remember that one terminal will be HOT and the other side goes directly to ground.

    I changed the way the horns were originally wired. The original horn only has a provision to wire the "hot" side, and the ground side is attached by means of the bracket that attaches the horn to the car. This connection will get corroded over time, and as soon as you get a poor ground, you will get a poor sounding horn. I would suggest that you wire it like I did mine. I used one terminal for the hot wire coming from the horn button, and I used the other terminal for the "ground" which I attaches to the frame. Then I used the bracket JUST to attach the whole horn to the frame. There are a number of bolts and studs under the hood. They are all ground if they are metal, meaning that they all go back to the negative side of the battery. I also bought some black plastic "loom" to encase the new wire I ran. This is the same kind of loom used on the original horn, so it matched up. Nothing worse than having a wire showing without a protective covering. The loom only costs about $2.99. It really makes it look professional. Plus I bought a roll of black electrical tape and taped the ends to keep water and rust out, which is what Nissan did with the original horn. That will complete the installation.I will try to send a picture showing the completed project. Once it was done, I had the 2 horns mounted so that the outlet was pointing downwards to keep the water out. One is on one side of the center latching mechanism, and the other one is just on the right of the center mechanism. The original horn position was used for one horn, and the stud to the right was used for the other horn. If your original horn is good, I would suggest only buying the High tone horn. They are both identified by the lettering on the body of the horn, Low is marked with a big "L", and of course, high is marked with a big "H". I just changed them both because of the wiring, and kept the original as a spare. All told, it was less than 50 bucks for everything. Pep Boys has them, and so does Auto Zone. The proper horns are marked "E" and "F", for low and high tones. Believe me, if you buy them from Nissan, they will cost much more. I believe that these are the same horns used on the Maxima,but for a whole lot less. I hope this helps. The sound is awesome.

    I did not drive any of the Altimas, and I probably won't for awhile. No need torturing myself...especially since I will not part with that kind of cash right now. I will wait until the dust settles. It will be fun watching Nissan and Infiniti juggle these prices in an effort to make it all "FIT". 24 to 26 grand for a 4 cylinder Altima SL is a bit much for my taste right now.
    Thanks again,
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Hey GSEREP1,
    Wow, that was quite a detailed description, although I'm afraid I got a little lost, because I guess I'm not as electrically inclined as you are. Pictures would definitely be a great help.

    The terminals that you bought, were they extra? Was anything included in the horn package? By HOT wiring I'm guessing you mean the constant 12 V power source, so that the horn can be applied anytime, as long as the battery has juice, right? So the terminal turned your one HOT wire into two HOT wires for two horns? And you grounded both horns by using the other terminal on the horn, instead of just using the mounting bracket as a ground?

    Did you remove the positive connection to the battery before working on this project? I've installed stereos in my other car (Mazda MX6), and I always unplugged the positive side just to be on the safe side...

    My low horn is ok, I guess, it just sounds like a Ford Escort rental. How easy is the access to the mounting points? The grille seems to be in the way. That could be removed to facilitate installation, I guess.

    Maybe we should continue this discussion via e-mail?
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