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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier



  • mayankhpmayankhp Posts: 22
    Hello everyone- gserep1and katraak

    Been busy taking inventory at work in long hours but never forget to browse through this board for even a day, you guys are most welcome again to load this message board with plenty of goodies.

    I have a topic to discuss and please share your experience on this.

    Last week I had been to a shop to get the oil change. Mechanic checked my tyre pressure and increased from 32 to 40, he explained to me that your tyres says not to exceed 40. He said that he always put air at the max out level whatever printed on tyre. And it is the way to go. How far it is true/good is my question to you guys.

  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    It is always good to follow Nissan recommended tire pressures. I don't have the owners manual handy but I guess it is 32 front and 29 back. Myself I always try to maintain 35 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear tires.
    At 40 psi you are going to have a very bumpy ride and also the handling characteristics of the vehicle will be adversely affected.
    What's your take on this GSEREP1?
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    Hello Gang,
    I agree with Katraak. 40 is a bit too much. You will get a "basketball type" ride, and save a bit on the fuel, but that is about all. Remember, that if you have 40 psi when it is cold, it will STILL add air pressure when driving. You may have as much as 44 or 45 pounds in there when it gets up to operating temperatures...CARY for sure. The 44 lbs on the sidewall is MAXIMUM pressure. The factory recommended pressure for these Firestone tires in THIS application is 33 front and 30 rear. I added 35 front and rear when the tires were cold. On a long trip I am not sure if my tires get up to 40. Try reducing the pressure a bit, and it will be easier on you and the tires.

    KATRAAK, what are you doing in MY part of the world?? Are you soaking up some of our great weather? I hope that you really enjoy yourself while you are out here. Maybe I didn't read closely enough, but did you drive your car out here? If so, then this is a red letter day for sure, and if not, I am sure that you are missing your car a lot. I took some pictures of my car today to share with my Louisiana friends who bought the GXE's, but I have not posted these to Edmunds yet. I sent them on Hotmail, and they say that they have received them already.

    Enjoy Pomona, and oh by the way, you are right about my A/C. It is the strangest thing. After they vacuumed out the system twice and refilled it, it started working better. About 3 days after the last service, I suddenly noticed it getting and staying colder. By then of course, the parts were already ordered. So now I am in a sort of quandry as to whether I should have it fixed or leave it alone. The parts are all backordered except for the filter drier, I believe. In the meantime, it pumped out 38 degree air all of last week when I was in the Fresno area in 100 to 105 degree weather. Really amazing. I know that as soon as I decide NOT to have it fixed, it will start acting up. The charge seems to be right now, but the Amplifier seems to be the culprit, as it does not know when to turn the compressor on and off.

    I will have to make plans to go up that way as I have relatives not too far away in Palmdale, and others in Long Beach. It would be nice to put a face to someone I have talked to so much lately.
    The pleasure would be all mine, I am sure.

    Take care of yourselves until we talk again...
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    since you're in LA right now, do you have any idea how motor registration works? I understand that you're there only for the summer. Do cars bought in CA have extra stuff for emission thing? If I want to move to LA area, can I just bring my car to there and get a new tag (after passing a smog inspection). In another word, is 2000 GXE sold in CA exactly same as 2000 GXE sold in GA or AL?
    BTW I'm alive too.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    What am I doing in "YOUR" part of the world?
    Well, I am a Ph.D student in Pharmaceutical Sciences and I go to school in Alabama. I will graduate shortly and I came here on an internship for only 3 months. Trying to get some real-world experience before I start a real job. You guessed it right. I didn't get my car here. I didn't want to drive freaking 2500 miles from AL to CA. I would've probably driven if I had company, but being alone I didn't try it. I know its difficult without a car. I got a quote to get my car shipped for $1600 back and forth and I couldn't afford that kind of money. The result is that I am without a car for 3 months. It's not too bad though, I have some friends here who give me a ride whenever I need one.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    involved if you want to register your Sentra in Calif. May be this link can help you.

    GSEREP1 should know as he is a resident of CA.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    Hello again,
    Yes I have lived in California for the last 30 + years, and it is a bit strange here to get non-California cars registered. It IS a bit easier than it used to be, and quite a bit less expensive too, I might add.

    Just a few years ago, there were 2 types of cars manufactured...1.California's, and 2. everyone elses'. California's emission standards were considerably more stringent, and the cars had to be certified to operate here. The only exceptions were military people, who were sent here by Uncle Sam. They were exempt from smog checks as long as they kept the plates from the home state. Or they got a break on the California license fee if they were not formal residents of this state, and wanted to register their cars here. Same deal if a military member bought a new car here. He got a break because he doesn't officially live here. I always had to pay even though I was in the military for 22 years, because I joined here. I paid full pop, while my out of state military friends paid about $25.00, regardless of the type of car they owned or bought new or used while here. The state used to charge a flat tax of between 300 to 700 dollars for any car that was not originally sold here and wanted to be registered here.. (I guess that was to make up for the fact that they lost that revenue from the beginning). Now that they have become kindler/gentler, they have started refunding some of the money they have been rippng people off for all of these years. This is probably in response to a few well-placed lawsuits brought by some smart lawyers. Every GASOLINE-powered car and truck has to be smog (emission tested every 2 years with the exception of brand new cars...which are smogged the very first time only after 4 years have elapsed, then after that, it is every other year). A sniffer is run up the tailpipe to measure emissions while the wheels spin to simulate real-world driving. Diesels and Motorcycles are exempt, but that may change. Lawn mowers and snowblowers, jetski's, and offroad 3 and 4 wheelers are also exempt...FOR NOW!

    If you are bringing a car in from another state and it is older than 3 or 4 years old, it must be retrofitted with all the things cars of the same type that were sold here had. That can get expensive. The newer cars (3 years or newer) have the same standards nationwide, so it is easier. Just understand that if you bought a new car less than a year ago from someplace else, you MAY have to still pay some extra state tax, but it is cheaper than it used to be. This is to discourage Californians from going to nearby TAX-FREE Oregon and buying a car and bringing it back here. I believe that it is 1 year or mileage in excess of 7000 miles, and you are exempt from paying the California USE TAX. I bought a new Sentra SE in May, and the dealer charged me $256.00 for the registration, which he paid to the state in my behalf. When my new plates came, I got a refund of $98.00 as well. That was a welcome suprise, for sure. But that was a car that was sold here in California with all of the California specs. I understand that this car has the same specs in all of the other states, so even if I did not buy it here, it would still have been legal here with no modfications. Bringing a new car less than a year old will result in paying the same sales tax and registration as if you bought it new here. Sales tax was about 1100.00 on my Sentra in addition to the 256.00 for the registration. Just remember that over a year old now, and you should be exempt from paying that big tax.

    The bottom line is, you will have to put your vehicle on a treadmill designed for the purpose of testing the emissions as it drives down the road. The smog test is EXTRA, and can cost from between 45 to as much as a couple hundred if done at a dealer, and depends on the type of car. One test is at 15 mph, and the other is at 25 mph, when the EGR system should be functional. The drive wheels are spun, and the rest of the car is locked down. There are different standards for each speed, as higher speed generally causes a car to pollute less than at idle. They measure HC (hydrocarbons, which is raw unburned gasoline that has escaped out of the exhaust), CO (carbon monoxide the bad stuff), CO2 (carbon dioxide..the good stuff formed by the catalytic converter), and NOX (Nitrides Of Oxygen, which is a chemical formed when combustion chamber temperatures exceed 2500 degrees F... a BAD actor for sure, and one that a properly operating EGR valve will keep in check). Any defects must be fixed before it is legal. Most new cars still have an emission warranty, so it is no problem, but old cars can cost a pretty penny if they are not in good shape. The registration and plates are figured on assessed valuation of the vehicle, meaning new cars cost more, and old cars cost less on a sliding scale until it gets down to about 25 to 30 dollars for everything. By then, the car is quite old, and nearly ready for the junk pile. In the old days, a $50,000 dollar car's registration would cost $1200.00 or so at first and declined each year until it totally devaluated. My highest was 765.00 a year for a new 30,000 dollar Ford Explorer a few years back. I still have that vehicle, and after 4 years, I am down to about 250 dollars. It is not pretty, and I don't want to give you gloom and doom statistics, but you have to be prepared for what may lie ahead. I cringe when I see other states get by on as little as $24.00 for a NEW $40,000 dollar Lincoln, and out here it is nearly 1000 bucks for the same car. And we still have some bridge tolls to pay in some areas like San Diego and San Francisco. We have been robbed blind for years, and the smog program is big joke.

    So welcome to California (if you still want to come). I believe that it is much cheaper than it used to be, but like Katraak said, go on line or call the DMV in Sacramento (our great capital city), and ask what it will cost. Make sure that the car is in good tune, and you should be able to get through it with no problem. Just don't bring a very old, or poorly performing car regardless of year, or you will be labeled a "gross polluter" if it fails, and there are addition penalties if you fail it..including having to undergo a smog test every year for the next 5 years to get off the gross polluter list. I think that I have said enough to keep any sane person from ever wanting to come here, right?

    Good luck to you in any event, and keep in touch.
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    It's not me going to CA. I have a friend who wanted to buy a car in Dallas -- 94/95 -- and bring it to CA. I only know that CA has a much tougher standard.

    I paid $220 for my first year property tax and registration to county tax commisioner for my 2000 GXE. I remember paying $38/yr including a $20 tag fee for my 88 Excel couple of years ago.

    No smog test in my county.
  • Hello everyone,

    It's been a little while since I posted so I've got a lot to discuss (I apologize in advance). With regard to the Smog testing, do any of you know how it works if you're in a state that requires the tests but have your vehicle registered in a state that doesn't? Can I just renew it in my original state w/o having to deal with the smog tests? I have a friend who had his vehicle registered in another state but both states required the testing. Unfortunately New Jersey was so strict he actually had to drive back home and have the testing done there.

    I did get the sticker off my window -- thanks GSEREP1 for the advice. It just took a while for me to find a day when it was actually cool enough to do so. I think my A/C is normal (perhaps to cold?) after all. The other day I took my car for a local drive when it was about 95+ out and man the car felt like a fridge when I left in on too long. Actually had to shut it off to stop from freezing.

    I recently went to my dealer to have the recall repair done but was quite disappointed when he told me he wouldn't be able to give me a ride to work since I was 15 miles away. He wouldn't give a loaner car either so I had to wait through the repair. While this wasn't a big deal this time it'll be a real pain in the you know what if I actually have to have something fixed. Have any of you run it to this? Anything I can do about it or do I have to just deal with it?

    Finally, I'm now past the 3+ month point and was going to get my first oil change. Since I only have 400 miles on the car I was thinking I could hold out a bit though. If I have it done is it a big deal if I go somewhere other than my dealer (in terms of my warranty)? For one thing the dealer is about TWICE as much as the other places and in addition I can't even take my vehicle in for service to dealer right now since all of the local mechanics who work at dealerships (their whole union) is on strike.

    Thanks for all the advice.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    Hi GSEREP1
    If you don't mind me asking, you work for the USAF right? Ground support? Should be pretty interesting, having to fix all those multimillion dollar aircraft. I read somewhere that for every hour an aircraft is in the air some 20 hrs maintenance is required, is that true?

    newsentraowner, you don't drive a lot, do you? 400 miles in 3 months, or was that a typo? Anyway, I would get my oil changed for the first time at 1000 miles and thereafter every 3750 miles. After 10K miles may be you can shift to synthetic oil so that the wear on your engine is less in the long run. Ya, same here too. Dealer charges more for oil changes than what you pay outside. Could be because they check your car according to the maintenance manual and also use original Nissan filter which is expensive than the filters that a lot of places use.
  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    Maybe Kragen or Pep Boys are cheaper...but...
    At our local Napa Auto Parts, the baseball-sized filter for my 2000 Sentra SE is $5.99ea for their "Gold" filter. At Concord Nissan, replacement Nissan Sentra filters are $5.31ea.
    Side Note: Nissan redesigned the oil filter for both the 1.8 and 2.0 Sentra motors in 2001. The new-style is about 3/4" longer...(I noticed when I changed a friend's new GXE during his 1st oil change) Since our filters for these cars are so small that you get laughed at when you buy them, any extra size/filtering ability is welcomed. Haven't seen the new size in aftermarket; go to your dealer and ask for a 2001-2002 Sentra GXE filter.
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    I think some people already post this address. But here it is again.

    a good place to get OEM oil filter. $4.47 w/o s/h for non-texas residents.
  •, you don't drive a lot, do you? 400 miles in 3 months, or was that a typo?

    Not a typo. While the three months includes a month that I was away (with the car in the parking lot) I don't need to drive much because my work/school provides a shuttle service.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    With such low mileage I'm sure you are going to keep excellent resale down the road. Like I said before you need not change oil until you have a 1000 miles on the odometer and thereafter change every 4000 miles.
    I guess it's fine if you want to get your oil changes done elsewhere other than the dealer. But all the service recommended in the maintenance manual needs to be done and also you have to hold on to the receipts and other documentation. That way if you ever have any trouble with the car during warranty period, the dealer cannot refuse service saying that routine maintenance was not performed as recommended by the manufacturer.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    Hey gang,
    I spent 15 minutes writing the last post, and I can't get it to work. I will try later. Funny how this last one goes up, and the first one will not. It is still stored in the computer's cache, but I can't get it to post. That is upsetting to say the least.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Click here - pat "Welcome to the Sedans Message Board" Jul 8, 2001 1:58pm - that may explain what happened and what you can do next time. I'm sorry that happened to you, I know how frustrating that is.

    Sedans Message Board
  • Hey ZHZ,

    Just finished installing the In-Cabin Micro Filter in my 2000 Sentra SE. The installation instructions list 8 steps under Parts Removal before proceeding to the installation of the filter (which is simply a matter of sliding the filter into the filter housing), but my experience was the last three or four steps are completely unnecessary. To sum up the procedure, you must remove the
    1. Glove box door
    2. Glove box latch
    3. Glove box frame
    4. Filter cover from the filter housing unit

    One Phillips screw driver and 20 minutes of your time is all that's required for you to start breathing that clean filtered air :-) On a quality control note, I noticed that one part of the glove box frame wasn't put in properly; there are 2 tabs that should go behind a panel, but only one tab was behind the panel, the other was in front. No wonder I hear creaks and rattles from the glove box and dash! Also washed the car this morning, just before sunrise. It's my favorite time to wash the car; it's cool and quiet, and I get to spend some quality time with my baby ;-)

    quark99 -- glad to hear that Nissan has finally made the Sentra oil filters larger. I've always had reservations about the filters because they were so small. Hopefully the aftermarket will catch up soon.
  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    Thanks for the information. I might try it, have to order it first.
  • bobcatbobbobcatbob Posts: 187
    Is it possible to have a 2001 Sentra SE (w/ Performance Pkg.) with both ABS and the 6-disc CD changer. The Nissan website says these are not available and a dealer near me is clueless. However, Edmunds says both can be had on the Se....

  • mdrivermdriver Posts: 385
    Getting an SE with ABS is almost impossible. There were a few 2000 SEs around with ABS, but no PP. For 2001, I have seen none with ABS with or without PP. That's probably because the SEs with PP are targeted to younger drivers and the dealers/manufacturers have determined that young people don't care about safety, they just want sunroofs, thus ABS is a rarity.
  • bobcatbobbobcatbob Posts: 187
    Can you order a Sentra with ABS? Anyone have experience with ordering? Is it worth the hassle ?
  • I have a black 2001 SE with PP,A/T,sunroof,and ABS. The 6 disc changer was the only option I skipped because I thought i would like the extra space there. However, after reading the posts I just couldn't pass up those deals on the nissan site and ordered the changer for $126. As far as getting a sentra with ABS you are going to have to wait a long time. In March 2000, I went to a NY area nissan dealer to get a sentra se loaded. I knew they wouldn't have what i wanted and ordered it. I was in no hurry and figured it would take 2-3 months. They told me 2 months. Well, it took about 6 months. I got the car in september and it was a 2001 by that time. The dealers suck and so does nissan's dont care 800 line. They never had an answer for when the car would come in. I hate Nissan and the Dealers, but I love my sentra.If you are willing to wait you might as well try to order an Se-R. You could have it by 2003 if it ever comes out.By the way, I work at a toll bridge in NY and see the car carriers taking cars to nissan dealers on long island and there are still very few sentra se's going that way and most of the ones that i see are gold(no offense to anyone out there) and dont have abs.I dont understand why nissan cant make these loaded se's.I haven't seen any out there but mine and its been almost a year now.
  • kstephankstephan Posts: 41
    I guess I was just really lucky to get an SE 5-speed w/PP and the ABS/side airbags package. I went through the local Autobytel agent at a Nissan dealership in Seattle; I spec'd my wishlist to him on Wednesday, and by Thursday, he'd called to say he found a few examples in black or radium. By Saturday, I was driving off in my ABS-equipped SE. I wonder if going through Autobytel (or something similar) increases your chances over just having a regular Nissan dealer try to find one w/ABS?

    Also, it really surprises me that more ABS-equipped SEs aren't available on the East Coast, as the need for ABS is greater there, with the bad winters and all. The Sentras are made in Mexico, which would seem to lend itself to fairly even distribution, but who knows?

    Side note: One pet peeve about the Sentra (practically the only; I'm really happy with it)is that the interior plastics, esp. the glovebox,
    scratch incredibly easily. I wish they'd use materials that didn't permanently show every errant fingernail scrape. Plus, my passengers often get into the car with backpacks or purses, and tend to scrape them across the glovebox, so it looks like hell already, after less than 3000 miles. In comparison, my Honda Civic wasn't great in that regard, but the plastic pieces resisted scratches much better than the Nissan does.
  • shera07shera07 Posts: 2
    i'm planning to buy a 2001 sentra se (automatic with side air bags/abs, sunroof, cd changer) very soon and wanted to know if anybody could tell me what they paid for theirs or what they think a good price to bargain for is. thanks.
  • shriqueshrique Posts: 338
    I have a dilema here. I'm trying to choose between these two cars. The price difference on is only about $1k(the Pro is cheaper). My quandry is the fact that the Sentra is getting very good press and has 15 more HP. Both seem to be about the same when it comes to maintenance. I've driven both and I found the Pro to be roomy and very tight and the Sentra to be a little smaller inside but it had more kick. Both felt very solid on the road and both were pretty quiet. I will admit the steering on the Pro felt a bit more responsive compared to the Sentra but they both glued to the road pretty well on clover leafs.

    I posted this same message in the Protege board to get a competing opinion. Any insite you guys have to help me make this decision would be great!

  • kstephankstephan Posts: 41
    I think a lot of people--myself included--went through the same thing, as the cars are pretty evenly matched. It might come down to which you can make a better deal on, which one has a dealership you prefer, or which one looks better to you. I chose the Sentra SE, partly for the following reasons:

    I think if you option the cars identically, the Sentra will be the less expensive of the two. You have to add a lot to the basic Protege ES to bring it up to SE w/PP spec. I'm pretty sure the ES doesn't have limited-slip differential, which the SE w/PP does. That's makes a noticeable handling difference.

    Finally, that 15-hp advantage for the Sentra isn't insignificant. And if you wait for the SE-R, it will *trounce* the Protege MP3, the current hot Mazda sedan.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    I see that you have a toss up between Sentra SE, Protege ES and the Subaru WRX. You know what? In my mind there is no question as to what I would choose if I can afford either of those. The Subaru WRX. The biggest plus being AWD.You just cannot compare the WRX to the Protege or the Sentra. But in any case you cannot spring the cash to get the subie then I would go with the SE w/PP. If you are a performance kind of guy and like manuals then I would get the SE. Sentra SE manual w/PP gets the limited slip differential which itself is worth as much as you pay for the whole package. If you live in the snow belt then I'm sure you will thank the LSD each time you venture into the snow.
    The SR20DE is extremely reliable and also like kstephen said a comparably equipped SE will cost less than the Protege. But in all fairness I have to mention that Mazda currently has good promotions like, 0% financing, free sunroof, S plan and the like. You should test drive both of them and get what you like best.
    But, if I were you I would wait for the Sentra SE-R and the Spec V. For the same price you can get an SE-R over the current SE and there is no Mazda that can compare with the SE-R, the MP3? sorry.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    Whats' going on? I have not heard from you lately. I wrote this nice entry the other day and it got lost way out in cyberspace. Only after I lost the message did I discover how to save them. Too bad for all the messages that I lost.

    So when are you going back to Alabama, my friend? Are you trying to soak up all of the "coolness" that you can stand before getting back into the land of "humidity"? Smart man.

    I will be venturing up to the Bay Area of San Francisco tomorrow, and I will be back on Monday. I really wished that we could get a chance to meet before you left California.

    Keep in touch and let me know if you have a little time to spare and spend with an old friend.

    Gotta run now,
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    At your hotmail address.
  • bobcatbobbobcatbob Posts: 187
    I was at a dealer yesterday and was asking about the new SE-R due out this fall. Has anyone heard pricing yet? the onyl word the delaership gave me was: "Under $20,000."

    I am mostly interested in a loaded SE or a loaded SE-R with an auto tranny.

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