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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

145791040

Comments

  • sentrafansentrafan Member Posts: 40
    2000 Nissan Sentra Owner's Manual, Page 5-16:
    BREAK-IN SCHEDULE
    "During the first 1000 miles...Do not drive over 55 MPH and do not run the engine over 4000 rpm."
  • rberusrberus Member Posts: 25
    Really? I didn't remember seeing that?

    Strange that (on my auto) 55MPH is ~ 2500 RPM.

    I did once go over 4000 rpm. Cruising down the freeway at 65mph when g/f decides to see what all the different buttons do - "what's this little button on the shifter do?". I almost had a heart attack.
  • starcheckerstarchecker Member Posts: 28
    That's hillarious, but I feel for you. What would we do without our sweeties!:) My manual said not to go over 4000 RPM's and not to exceed the speed limit. I wonder if on the 01's they dropped the 55mph limit realizing that I am only doing 2800 - 3000 RPM at 70 MPH

    If there really is a 55MPH restriction please let me know, although I almost have my 1000 miles so it's too late.
  • dmv71dmv71 Member Posts: 6
    I bought the 2000 automatic Nissan GXE with convenience package, keyless entry, and mats for the total price of $12,955 or $13,000 (don't have the figure in front of me)out the door. Before taxes and licesne, the price was $ 11, 777. I got the 3.9% financing. I bought it in San Bernardino, California. The dealership I got my car from is called Metro Nissan. It's a huge Nissan dealership that sells in volume. Anyway, it was in the add, and they had 5 to sell this past Thanksgiving weekend. The weekend before that they had 4 to sell, but I missed the opportunity to buy it then. I am sure next weekend they will have some more to sell. Can someone tell me if the cost of additional 4 years or 64,000 miles for $525 is a good price for an extended warranty? Also, does anyone have or hear the rattling noise like a static sound from a bad radio reception coming from the front or rear passenger's side of the car? I hear it when I drive on a bad road at 55 miles and up. Thanks for any input on the cost of the extended warranty and the rattling noise.
  • sentrafansentrafan Member Posts: 40
    I don't really know the logic behind the 55 MPH restriction, but I followed it nonetheless. My 1999 Harley Low Rider also had the same restriction. Imagine how I felt driving that beast home on the freeway from the dealer! Every car and bike on the freeway was blowing by me like I was standing still. I still get embarrassed just thinking about it!
  • happyman1happyman1 Member Posts: 23
    I believe that the break in period is so that different parts in the engine(such as gaskets, etc) can settle well. It makes sure there are no gaps in the gaskets and therefore no engine leaking in the future.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    thanks.

    sounds like a really good deal. enjoy.
  • tommynsstommynss Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I just bought a 2001 Sentra SE. I am really happy with the car, shopped between the '01 Civic EX, but Sentra was more worth the money and sportier as well. What I thought was frustrating was that I could not get the car with ABS/side air bags! I would have had to wait too long otherwise, so i ended up getting a demo with 1500 miles with everything except abs/side airbags. I also got the extended 7yr 100K bumper to bumper warranty extra. Great car.
  • starcheckerstarchecker Member Posts: 28
    I Just rechecked my manual. It appears they have deleted the 55 MPH restriction in the 2001 manual. On 5-16 it says "Do not drive over the legal speed limit and Do not run the engine over 4000 rpm." The break in period is extremely important for proper seating of all engine parts. It helps engine life, provides better mileage and power and probably more things. I just didn't know why the 55mph limit was there, and it appears they have deleted that restriction.
  • dmv71dmv71 Member Posts: 6
    How much did you pay for the 7yr/100000 extended warranty? Why was your reason for getting it? Just curious. Thanks!!!
  • sentra_buyersentra_buyer Member Posts: 6
    Yeah in the owner manual of my 2001 SE they certainly do not have the 55 mph limit. As far as the rpm goes it is not too difficult to stay within the range of 4000 rpm. You just need to make sure that you do not accelerate too fast, for example checking the pickup at a traffic light after the red turns green!


    To be on the safer side I am also trying to keep the car under 55 mph too, though I occassionally do exceed that limit by 4 to 5 mph.
  • fpm2fpm2 Member Posts: 13
    Adhering to a 55 mph speed limit during break-in doesn't make sense to me logically. Speed is a function of your tire's rotational speed, not your engine speed? Your transmission gearing along with the engine rpm is what is determining your speed. To tell you the truth, I don't think there is a real "magic" number to follow. Just don't beat the hell out of your car when you first get it, and you'll be all right.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Look at your tachometer when you are going 55 mph compared to 60 or 70. The engine is still turning faster when you drive at higher speeds, albeit not close to the 4000 rpm or close to redline. But maybe there is some logic behind it.
  • fpm2fpm2 Member Posts: 13
    there is no difference in engine speed from driving 25 mph in 2nd gear (3000 rpm) and driving 70 mph in 5th gear (3000 rpm). Your engine works no harder in either case. The gearing of your transmission is what is giving you the ability to drive 70 instead of 30 at 3000 rpm of the engine.
  • sentra_buyersentra_buyer Member Posts: 6
    That clarifies some lingering issues. Just to go a step further I wanted to ask what the purpose of high engine rpms is. According to me it is for:

    1. Very high accelerations.
    2. Or for climbing steep slopes.

    Is there anyone who could throw more light on the same?
  • fpm2fpm2 Member Posts: 13
    No two engines are alike. Many characteristics of an engine such as size, the piston's bore size as opposed to it's stroke, compression ratios, # of valves per cylinder, cam profiles, weight of it's mechanical parts, etc. can affect an engine's power curve (it's torque curve across it's engine rpm range). Remember, horsepower is only a function of the torque of the engine at a given rpm. HP=Torque x(rpm/5252). Some engines produce more torque than other's at low rpm, but run out of steam at higher rpm's. That's why you will see smaller engines like the one in the sentra, civic, integra, etc. produce higger HP than torque at it's peak - because it's torque peaks at a higher rpm than 5252. You'll often hear people talk about a "flat torque curve". An engine that has a flat torque curve theoretically produces power, and therefore builds speed, that is more linear as opposed to peaky (is that a word?). So, yes, in order to climb hills or accelerate quickly, you need high revs, but that's only because we drive vehicles that require high rpm to do those tasks, unlike a car like the viper that makes it's power down low in the rpm range.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Good explanation but I thought 5,252 (not sure about this number) was just a conversion factor to express the power in horsepower (hp). It has nothing to do with 5,252 rpm. Continuting to nitpick, there's no such thing as "higher HP than torque at its peak". It's like saying person A weighs more in lbs. than twice his height in inches.
  • starcheckerstarchecker Member Posts: 28
    One Possible Guess as to why the 55 mph limit was listed on the older manuals. I have driven many autos and even some sticks that do not have tachs. Maybe that is when the highway speed limit for break-ins was instituted since these people wouldn't know how many rpm's they were doing. I believe the 2001 manual changing the break in limit from 4K rpm and 55 mph to 4K and not ove legal speed was intentional and they no longer feel the 55mph limit is neccessary.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Ignore the last post. Power is found by multiplying torque times rpm (there is a conversion factor involved which is pi/33000). Nevertheless your engine works much harder (developes more Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph. You have to know how much torque is developed at any rpm and that will be a function of the resistance the engine is meeting. For instance when you are in neutral and increase speed of the engine there is essentially no horsepower involved because there is hardly any torque developed in idle (NO RESISTANCE). To answer your question more directly. When you mash down on your accelerator when the car is in gear the greater the rpm the more horsepower it is developing (remember that engine is straining its guts out and putting out maximum torque at any given rpm.) So when you see the rated horsepower of say 160 for a 4 cylinder engine and only 150 for a 6 cylinder - the 6 cylinder wins the drag every time because it developes more torque at a slower speed. The 4 cylinder needs 6500 rpm to develop its 160 Hp whereas the 6 cyl developes its 150 hp at a much lower rpm. In short small engines need lots of rpm's to develop horsepower. Cubic inches develop torque pure and simple. There ain't no substitute for 'cubes' Hope this helps- if not email me.
  • dart64dart64 Member Posts: 9
    While I can't comment about conversion factors and the like, I can say that your remark about a 6 cylinder car always winning is a bit misguided.
    Just because a car needs to rev higher does not make it a slower car; it just simply needs to run faster because that's where its power is made.
    My car is a 4 cylinder and makes most of it's power above 3,000 rpm, but I can assure you that I can accelerate faster than many 6 cylinder cars.
  • davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    I agree with you that there are some fast 4 cylinder cars out there, I think adc100 was alluding to a mythical car that does not exist. A car that is equal in every way, with the only difference being a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder (or an 8, 10, or 12 for that matter). If you use that criteria I think he is correct, a 6 will generally produce more torque sooner than a 4. Once again, assuming that both engines are equal (i.e. either both are naturally aspirated or both are turbo or supercharged). One interesting thing is how the motors stroke affects torque. But of course for our argument both engines would have similar bore and stroke- I guess we could (would have to) make the bore and stroke proportionally smaller on the 6 to make up for having 2 extra cylinders. (So that both engines have the same displacement, whether it be 2 litres or 4 litres or whatever.) So there you go, what does that tell you? I'd like to have a small block chevy in the nose of my Miata, but then the balance of the car goes away and I'm screwed again....
  • paul116paul116 Member Posts: 15
    I am in the market for a new car, and was impressed by two Sentra test drives for the 2001 model (GXE and SE w. P/P). When checking this forum, all I could find was vast numbers of postings about break-in periods, drag racing, and adding better tires. This gives me the signal that there really is not much to complain about in reliability, except for only a handful of unlucky owners with electrical problems. Compared to some of the other forums for cars, this says wonders about the build quality of the Sentra. Basically, there is nothing to complain about, so heated discussions arise from street racers. Heck, all I want is an economic and reliable commuter with a great stereo, without giving up too much power, roadholding ability, or money. A Cappucino SE without the ugly midnight cloth and stiff suspension found on the Performance Package is probably what I need. Thanks, everyone!
  • fpm2fpm2 Member Posts: 13
    I see some flaws in your statements. First of all, HP is just a conversion of torque at any given RPM (which you say) - so far so good. Your problem is with your next statement - "your engine works much harder (develops more
    Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph". That is incorrect. Your car sees more resistance (due to air friction)at 70 mph, but that has nothing to do with the HP your "engine" produces. When you have your car in neutral and "rev" it, it is still producing the same amount of HP, it's just not in gear, so you don't move. Depress your clutch, rev to 6000 rpm and then let go of the clutch. Your engine didn't just start making HP, it just didn't have a means of transferring that power. When an engine is tested to see how much HP it produces, they don't drive at 70 mph to measure it. The engine is placed on it's own and revved across it's rpm range. These values are then recorded (regardless of what gear your in and how many mph you are doing). This is your torque curve. From that curve, they can interpolate your HP at any rpm using the formula I listed previously.
    You're also incorrect when you say the greater the rpm, the greater the HP. Look at any mid-80's GM 6 cylinder engine (or others for all I know) and you will see that the torque peaks at about 4000 rpm or so. After that, torque decreases. That is why when you look at engine ratings you see a peak for HP & torque. For instance the Sentra has 145 Hp at 6400 rpm and 136 ft-lbs of Torque at 4800 rpm. That means that at 6400 rpm, the engine is only producing 119 ft-lbs. of torque (power at the crank). I won't even comment on 6-cylinders winning drag races since we all understand that that statement is flawed. The statement is only true - maybe - for short distances. It also depends on the weights of the vehicles.
  • jweijwei Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I just bought a 2001 Sentra GXE last month, and I loved it. I only get about 650 mi on it now, however, I notice that I did not get very good gas mileage on this car. Unlike what it was claimed, I only get about 22 mpg. Is that normal?
  • luckylarluckylar Member Posts: 12
    Yes that is a good question. What are the GXE and the SE with automatics gatting on the road and in the city?
  • happyman1happyman1 Member Posts: 23
    I have had my SE with perf pack for 2 months and in town I have averaged 28 miles per gallon. On the highway I get 33. This is much better than the manufacturer claims it gets. It puzzles me why you get that kind of mileage with a gxe. I have been amazed at my gas mileage. Maybe you have a leaky gas tank. Regardless, go have it checked out.
  • genomegenome Member Posts: 1
    I have the 2001 GXE, and the gas mileage for mine is 33 with 30% city/town and the rest highway.
  • porschefan1porschefan1 Member Posts: 2
    Just wanted to thank all those folks who have posted to this site. I just purchased a 2000 Sentra SE leftover. Car included auto, sunroof, Perf package and matts with a selling price of $16k (not including tax and reg fees). I checked out a lot of posting sites and test drove Civic (nice but boring), Cavalier (cheap but, well just cheap), Focus (handled great but not up to the Sentra in quality) and Neon (R/T is cool but concerned about quality). After one week of ownership I know I made the right choice. The car handles great and has good power, although I am aware of the break in. Fit and finish is great and gas milage is about 28 avg.

    Have any of you out there made any changes to improve power and handling? I was thinking about adding a K&N Filtercharger but not sure where to get it for a Nissan. Also how about lowering the car and different tires. I am certainly interested in knowing what others out there have done.

    Thanks again for all the info and honest feedback.
  • rberusrberus Member Posts: 25
    After having 2 computers down for 2 weeks, I can post again!

    I've been getting ~24-26mpg on 95% city driving. That's based on 3900 miles since Sept. 2. Daily routine is drive 2 miles to work, and 2 miles to home.

    BTW, enough snow to cover the roads fell yesterday where I live. The tires do blow chunks, but the ABS works well.
  • mookie00mookie00 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2000 GXE manual and I drive 95% highway - I average 37 MPG, but I've had it as high as 41. I got about 2 MPG better by switching to synthetic oil, but that still doesn't explain anyone getting MPGs in the low 20s.
  • wchuwchu Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am from Toronto, Canada. I am researching on the 2001 Sentra SE. Seems like a pretty good car and good value. However, I am not sure if I want everything in the performance package except the ABS. Can the ABS option be had on its own without getting the entire performance package for the SE? Also, can someone tell me the difference between the SE standard suspension and the one in performance package - pros and cons?
    Is the performance package worth getting?

    Thanks.
  • rberusrberus Member Posts: 25
    Well, the 2.0L in the SE is rated ~30mpg for highway, and 24mpg for city from the EPA, so I'm right in line on that.

    As for the perf. pack., get it - its just way to good of a deal to pass up.

    Yes, ABS is available as a stand-alone option. Actually, on my 2000, ABS didn't come with the perf package.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    'bhp' is "brake horsepower" from a "prony brake". bhp is measured at maximum resistance at a given rpm. Your car makes very little hoursepower in neutral at any rpm. Only engine and transmission friction. dart64- you're right I didn't mean to imply that all 6's beat all 4's. davidb72's explanation is what I had in mind, I can tell he is an engineer. I just bought a 2001 (today) Sentra SE with auto only. I maybe should have looked at the 1.8 liter more closely it might be a later generation engine. I don't believe it has a distributer (unlike the 2 liter) and also it doesn't have solid lifters (2 liter has solids). Any thoughts? I really wanted the 4 wheel discs and it appeared that the SE had bells and whistles for a reasonable price.
  • paul116paul116 Member Posts: 15
    Well, after three months of EXHAUSTIVE research and dozens of test drives, I have chosen to replace my troublesome Ford Focus with a 2000 Sentra SE. I am one of the few who did not want the value priced Power Package, as I hate the Midnight Cloth fabric, especially with my Cappuccino exterior, and also consider the Stage II suspension to be a bit too stiff for my tastes.

    As for the final three cars, I deliberately test drove all three back-to-back on the same day, so as to get the best opinion. To make a long story short, I considered the Sentra SE to be a much better value, and have better acceleration than the base Toyota Solara. The Toyota was rated by me as last place of the three. Surprise, surprise!
    In second place, with slightly better performance and handling than the Sentra SE was the fuel efficient Olds Alero with the 3.4 liter V-6. Believe it or not, the Sentra SE is almost as fast as the Olds with the V-6. Had my memory of brake rotor problems on my old 98 Malibu (cousin to the Alero) not reminded me of what I went through on that car, I would have bought the Alero. I was lucky enough to have the cheapest of the final three cars to be very reliable. My Sentra SE wound up being $3000 cheaper than the Alero and $7000 cheaper than the Solara. I made a very smart purchase with the Sentra, getting it at invoice (leftover 2000 model) and 5.9% APR for 4 years. This was simply too good to pass up. My Nissan dealer is also one of the easiest car dealers that I have ever had to deal with in my 15 years of buying cars.

    Thanks again everyone for all of the tips.
  • katraakkatraak Member Posts: 33
    No matter how you look at it the Sentra SE is a wonderful buy. May I suggest that you visit www.b15sentra.net where all the 2000 Sentra owners hangout and discuss their cars. I know its tough but be easy on the car the first 1000 miles.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I'll check the link. I will be easy on the car for that time period. I know how important it is. I changed the oil after 27 miles to Mobil 1. Sounds crazy as maybe I should have given it time to flush itself. I'm a real believer in Mobil 1 oil and I couldn't help myself.
  • driven_sedriven_se Member Posts: 1
    I have been told by many engine builders not to run a synthetic oil until the engine is broken in. Synthetic oil works so good that it doesn't allow the piston rings to get seated in. Get the engine good and broken in (7,000 to 8,000 miles) before switching to a synthetic oil.
  • sentra2000sentra2000 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2000 SE with some problems:

    The left side center vent does not blow at all even when I have the fans set at speed #4. The right side center vent blows fine.

    The sunroof does not open all the way when pressing the open button. It slides 90% and then stops...I have to release the button then press the open button again to open the remaining 10%.

    Anyone else have these issues.
  • cdarienzocdarienzo Member Posts: 2
    I live in NY and I am shopping around for a Sentra GXE automatic with no other options. I need someone to throw me a bone in giving me a target price with destination charge included and without taxes please. I was quoted $14,100 at a nearby dealership.
  • vonnyvoncevonnyvonce Member Posts: 129
    Have used Mobil 1 for quite a while on many cars after break-in period. All ok. Understand the concern about no syn during break-in but then how do you explain why Porsche, Corvettes and also rebuild from Autozone come with Mobil 1 as their factory fill. If it's good enough for a very expensive Porsche engine maybe it's ok for everyone else????
  • happyman1happyman1 Member Posts: 23
    My left side vent barely blows too! It is quite annoying, but I really don't think there is anything that can be done about it. As for the sunroof, mine does the same thing. Its suppose to. I don't know why, but thats how they were designed.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I had the same thoughts.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    I had a chance to drive it last night. The car was supposedly just off the truck that day. In the middle of the test drive there was suddenly a flapping noise coming from the engine. I asked if I should stop and find out what was making the noise. The salesman said it was probably just the fan. He tried to vary the fan speed and that did not affect the noise. I was saying to myself, "Fine. Just don't make me pay for it if I damage the engine.
    In addition, I have these observations and questions. It would be helpful to me if someone else would comment on these, especially if you had the chance to drive one with the PP and one without. It was too late last night to drive one without. I presently drive a 99 Civic EX sedan w/5-sp. Sitting in the driver's seat, the Sentra felt narrower. It also had more vibration and engine noise than the Civic (not surprising). Wind noise was fine. Again, it could be because there's something wrong with the engine in that particular sample. It took more effort to shift into each gear. That's not a big problem to me except I couldn't shift into 1st gear while the car was coasting down. When coming to a stop sign, I normally shift into 1st gear when the car's speed is down to 15-20mph. I would depress the clutch and shift into 1st gear. I don't release the clutch until I come to a complete stop and I'm ready to proceed. I can blame it on the cold weather, but then my Civic has no such problem at cold temperatures. This problem on the Sentra reminded me of my 83 Tercel. Has anyone else experience the same difficulty with their SE? The ride was rougher than the Civic and the handling was better (again, not surprising). Hopefully, someone who had a chance to drive one with the PP and one without would comment on the differences between the two in terms of noise, vibration, ride and handling, etc.
  • jliu_2000jliu_2000 Member Posts: 7
    My 96 Sentra hit the curb and caused the damage to the bottom of the car. Two airbags
    also burst out. I brought it to Nissan dealer which fixed the damage (control arm, ..)
    for almost $1,000 but not the airbags. They told me to replace two airbags will cost around
    $2,000. I think it's ridiculous as the whole new car costs around $12,000. Now I am driving
    the Sentra without airbags.

    What should I do? any advice appreciated.
  • fpm2fpm2 Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem shifting into first. It doesn't happen all the time, which makes this really annoying. ANyone else have this problem?
  • porschefan1porschefan1 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issues with my 2000 SE Left center vent hardly blows, I also have that slighly raised passenger airbag cover. Anyone have any solutions to these things?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    When driving the vehicle home there seemed to be excessive vapor coming out of the exhaust (Wife driving-I was following). I also noticed water dripping out of exhaust. After 5 miles this went away. Still, it seemed to be excessive. Of course the car only had 11 miles on it and may have sat a while. The oil appeard OK. I changed oil anyway. Next time I drove it after a short period of time the "check engine" light came on. Wondering if the head gasket leaks. Antifreeze level was low when I got it home. Have an apointment with dealer. Thoughts??
  • trunktrunk Member Posts: 3
    Rebate info on this site sez 5.9% financing for 48 months on Sentra, good through 12/20. Does anyone think there might be an even better rate offered right after that? Wouldn't that make sense-- "12/21 through 12/31" or something. I hope so, b/c I don't think I can make up my mind by next Wednesday, but if I buy one right after this offer I could've saved about $500 over 4 year loan. Any guess?
  • trunktrunk Member Posts: 3
    I am interested in the SE, going to test drive on Wednesday. What first caught my attention was the TV commercial for the stereo. Is it as good as I hope it is? Also, does anyone know the manufacturer of the head unit/speakers? Interestingly, a lot of the good stereos in cars are advertised by name: JBL (Solara), Infinity (Grand Cherokee), Bose (Maxima), Harmon Kardon (BMW), Nakamichi (Lexus), Monsoon (VW)...
  • austyleaustyle Member Posts: 4
    hey all. At first I was looking at the CE. But candidly, I can do without the extra horses and would like to save a little money with the GXE. I wanted to get a feeling for what kind of price I should be looking for. The dealer started with 15,995 then came down 500 beans. I think that price can be improved a good 750?? The GXE was a stick with ABS, six disk changer, mats and luxury package. The model is the 2001. Please give your thoughts, but I am thinking this is QUITE a bit high. Thanks
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