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BREAK-IN SCHEDULE
"During the first 1000 miles...Do not drive over 55 MPH and do not run the engine over 4000 rpm."
Strange that (on my auto) 55MPH is ~ 2500 RPM.
I did once go over 4000 rpm. Cruising down the freeway at 65mph when g/f decides to see what all the different buttons do - "what's this little button on the shifter do?". I almost had a heart attack.
If there really is a 55MPH restriction please let me know, although I almost have my 1000 miles so it's too late.
sounds like a really good deal. enjoy.
To be on the safer side I am also trying to keep the car under 55 mph too, though I occassionally do exceed that limit by 4 to 5 mph.
1. Very high accelerations.
2. Or for climbing steep slopes.
Is there anyone who could throw more light on the same?
Just because a car needs to rev higher does not make it a slower car; it just simply needs to run faster because that's where its power is made.
My car is a 4 cylinder and makes most of it's power above 3,000 rpm, but I can assure you that I can accelerate faster than many 6 cylinder cars.
Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph". That is incorrect. Your car sees more resistance (due to air friction)at 70 mph, but that has nothing to do with the HP your "engine" produces. When you have your car in neutral and "rev" it, it is still producing the same amount of HP, it's just not in gear, so you don't move. Depress your clutch, rev to 6000 rpm and then let go of the clutch. Your engine didn't just start making HP, it just didn't have a means of transferring that power. When an engine is tested to see how much HP it produces, they don't drive at 70 mph to measure it. The engine is placed on it's own and revved across it's rpm range. These values are then recorded (regardless of what gear your in and how many mph you are doing). This is your torque curve. From that curve, they can interpolate your HP at any rpm using the formula I listed previously.
You're also incorrect when you say the greater the rpm, the greater the HP. Look at any mid-80's GM 6 cylinder engine (or others for all I know) and you will see that the torque peaks at about 4000 rpm or so. After that, torque decreases. That is why when you look at engine ratings you see a peak for HP & torque. For instance the Sentra has 145 Hp at 6400 rpm and 136 ft-lbs of Torque at 4800 rpm. That means that at 6400 rpm, the engine is only producing 119 ft-lbs. of torque (power at the crank). I won't even comment on 6-cylinders winning drag races since we all understand that that statement is flawed. The statement is only true - maybe - for short distances. It also depends on the weights of the vehicles.
Have any of you out there made any changes to improve power and handling? I was thinking about adding a K&N Filtercharger but not sure where to get it for a Nissan. Also how about lowering the car and different tires. I am certainly interested in knowing what others out there have done.
Thanks again for all the info and honest feedback.
I've been getting ~24-26mpg on 95% city driving. That's based on 3900 miles since Sept. 2. Daily routine is drive 2 miles to work, and 2 miles to home.
BTW, enough snow to cover the roads fell yesterday where I live. The tires do blow chunks, but the ABS works well.
Is the performance package worth getting?
Thanks.
As for the perf. pack., get it - its just way to good of a deal to pass up.
Yes, ABS is available as a stand-alone option. Actually, on my 2000, ABS didn't come with the perf package.
As for the final three cars, I deliberately test drove all three back-to-back on the same day, so as to get the best opinion. To make a long story short, I considered the Sentra SE to be a much better value, and have better acceleration than the base Toyota Solara. The Toyota was rated by me as last place of the three. Surprise, surprise!
In second place, with slightly better performance and handling than the Sentra SE was the fuel efficient Olds Alero with the 3.4 liter V-6. Believe it or not, the Sentra SE is almost as fast as the Olds with the V-6. Had my memory of brake rotor problems on my old 98 Malibu (cousin to the Alero) not reminded me of what I went through on that car, I would have bought the Alero. I was lucky enough to have the cheapest of the final three cars to be very reliable. My Sentra SE wound up being $3000 cheaper than the Alero and $7000 cheaper than the Solara. I made a very smart purchase with the Sentra, getting it at invoice (leftover 2000 model) and 5.9% APR for 4 years. This was simply too good to pass up. My Nissan dealer is also one of the easiest car dealers that I have ever had to deal with in my 15 years of buying cars.
Thanks again everyone for all of the tips.
The left side center vent does not blow at all even when I have the fans set at speed #4. The right side center vent blows fine.
The sunroof does not open all the way when pressing the open button. It slides 90% and then stops...I have to release the button then press the open button again to open the remaining 10%.
Anyone else have these issues.
In addition, I have these observations and questions. It would be helpful to me if someone else would comment on these, especially if you had the chance to drive one with the PP and one without. It was too late last night to drive one without. I presently drive a 99 Civic EX sedan w/5-sp. Sitting in the driver's seat, the Sentra felt narrower. It also had more vibration and engine noise than the Civic (not surprising). Wind noise was fine. Again, it could be because there's something wrong with the engine in that particular sample. It took more effort to shift into each gear. That's not a big problem to me except I couldn't shift into 1st gear while the car was coasting down. When coming to a stop sign, I normally shift into 1st gear when the car's speed is down to 15-20mph. I would depress the clutch and shift into 1st gear. I don't release the clutch until I come to a complete stop and I'm ready to proceed. I can blame it on the cold weather, but then my Civic has no such problem at cold temperatures. This problem on the Sentra reminded me of my 83 Tercel. Has anyone else experience the same difficulty with their SE? The ride was rougher than the Civic and the handling was better (again, not surprising). Hopefully, someone who had a chance to drive one with the PP and one without would comment on the differences between the two in terms of noise, vibration, ride and handling, etc.
also burst out. I brought it to Nissan dealer which fixed the damage (control arm, ..)
for almost $1,000 but not the airbags. They told me to replace two airbags will cost around
$2,000. I think it's ridiculous as the whole new car costs around $12,000. Now I am driving
the Sentra without airbags.
What should I do? any advice appreciated.