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Sounds like you have a bit of metal stuck onto the inboard brake pad on the right front wheel. Or, perhaps some other foreign object is stuck there and not allowing the brake pad to contact the rotor in that spot. Either scenario would result in a "rust ring." If you are at all mechanically inclined, remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper unit, and inspect the entire pad and brake assembly. If you are successful and find and remove the offending bit of foreign matter, a quick cleaning of the rotor with a SOS pad will remove the rust.
Good luck and happy driving, Sentra owners!
Anybody else have any ideas?
Even so, I'm still not completely happy, and may take it to the dealer to look at the alignment.
Sometimes dealer service would put too much engine oil... not good either.
Later
premium audio, rear spoiler, and side air bags/as - basically all the
options I am wanting. But it is a 2000, and has accumulated 500 miles
while sitting around. The invoice is about $16,000, and they want $15,400 for it. I told them I would give them $15,000. I have had several dealers do locator searches for me, but have only found a couple of other cars similar to what I want. The best price I could get on these was about $17,000. If I order one, I was given
a date in May, which is longer than I want to wait. Does anyone think I should get the 2000 for $15,400? Or, should I stay away from it
completely, at any price (a little scared about the
miles)? My alternative might be to go with a 2001 Protege.
Any opinions? Thanks
Later
Al
I like the quick response. great value considering getting all necesseties to make youre driving pleasurable. ie. nice instrumentation, power all, keyless entry, auto trunk opener, fog lights plus more no moon roof tho. overall great car me and wife like it. This is my car while the wife drives a Toyota Sequioa. Differences in gas mileages you can say. The only negatives i see is
the cupholder too small. Can you guys tell me how is your gas mileage? What is the average MPG? thanks .
S
To the person who said he wouldn't be caught dead in a Jetta. Kind of ironic that he would be less likely to be dead in a Jetta (compared to a Sentra), due to the car's better crash rating, weight, and now side "curtain" airbags. Sentra is a better performance value, but not a better safety value. Have you ever tried to get a Sentra SE w/pp and ABS/side SRS? None made it seems. Oh well, one can always open the sunroof while sliding into the car in front, because of lack of ABS availability, but sunroofs on every SE.
As for mileage, I'm averaging ~22mpg in 95% city driving. Rarely do I reach 50mph. I'm at 6280 miles right now, since last August.
I test drove his car. It is just about as nice as a pre-96 Max (non-SE) in terms of ride and handling.... probably a little rougher due to sports-tuned suspension.
Thanks!
BSP
Need opinions/comparisons of Nissan Sentras, Altima, Corolla.
I have narrowed my choices to Civic EX Coupe and
Nissan Sentra SE.
I test drove both cars. Currently I own a Golf with a 115 HP engine, and Honda with the 127 HP engine felt rather sluggish, at least when compared to my Golf.
Nissan felt more “sporty”, however I slightly prefer Honda’s style.
I would welcome any advice related to both cars listed above,
Including mentioning any problems or annoyances.
Does anyone happen to know reputable Nissan dealership in central west NJ?
I almost get a dealer-phobia and would really like some advice beforehand.(I live in Princeton.)
Many thanks.
I read on a different message board that mud flaps can't be added to the front wheels because of the sills. If this is the case are there any after market flaps that can be purchased.
With recent rains the side of my car is a real mess and I'm also very concerned about stone chips in the future.
Could this be a design flaw that should be addressed by Nissan and should damaged caused by stones to the paint be warranted by Nissan?
I think we need to voice our opinions to Nissan if we can't protect the finish of our vehicles by installing mud flaps. Furthermore Nissan should make it a standard item on all of their Sentras. I'd pay for them as part of the performance package.
Try Razzari Nissan in Merced.
Exactly 2 hours south of Sacto on 99.
They are right off the freeway and you don't have to deal with Bay Area traffic.
Ask for Mike and I'm sure you'll find a SE or GXE at invoice.
(209)383-0100
www.razzari.com
Good Luck
If your SE doesn't have the Performance Package, you can get mud flaps for the front and back. If it does have the Performance Package, you can only get them for the back. I agree, this was an oversight on Nissan's part. I went ahead and purchased the back ones for my 2000 SE w/PP, but am unaware of any aftermarket flaps for the front.
On another note -- I'm thinking about getting my windows tinted, mostly for the comfort of my 3 year old daughter who rides in the back seat. I'm thinking about a light tint up front and a darker tint on the back windows. If anyone has any experience or comments on tinting I'd be happy to hear them.
Then again... to each his/her own
Please don't compare apples to oranges. The last year engines (base 1.6 L and optional 1.8 L) cannot be compared to the 2.0 L Sentra engines.
But nobody mentions what Protege they were driving.
The rental ones usually have the 1.6 L engines in their bays.
That engine is noisy and gutless.
For what it's worth, I live in Columbus and have my front doors @ 38%, and back doors with back window @ 28%. I've had no problems yet, though it's only been on 2 weeks.
Let's look at performance #'s:
Sentra SE PP: 0-60 7.9 seconds Skidpad: .84 (5-speed)
Protege ES w/lux package: 0-60 8.7 seconds Skidpad: .80 (5-speed)
The difference is night and day. The Protege is an inferior vehicle in terms of refinement, handling, acceleration, braking, package content, technology, and price. Out here in CA, we call that VALUE. Don't mind me, continue to enjoy your Pro. Just don't challenge anyone with an SE and you'll be all right. There is nothing that makes the new '01 Pro stand out from an average run-of-the-mill Civic, Corolla, Elantra, Excel, Neon, etc. Front-wheel ABS? Don't make me laugh. Rear-wheel ABS might provide some value during braking. What is Mazda (Ford) thinking? (Besides how many more drivers they can kill with inferior products and get away with it)
the vehicle has been "Immobile". The car was flat bedded to the dealership...and I
was told that the chip in the key for the "Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System" is
sending the signal but the computor is not listening. So,what this translates to, is
that the car has been down almost two weeks with the parts on back order!....so is
this telling me that this has been a problem?.....has anyone else had this happen?
Other then that I have been very pleased with the vehicle.....just wish that I could
drive it again. Oh, and bye the way the Altima I was given to use....is terrible....so
glad I bought the Sentra
I got a GXE stick (dealer's invoice, 12,343), convenience package (131) and floor mats (58). Adding the destination charge, the dealer's invoice totaled $13,052. My purchase price was $13,295. That is $243 over dealer's invoice. That was within my target range. We went around and test-drove pretty much all the cars in this size and price range including the Toyota Corolla, Honda Civic, Hyundai Elantra, Mazda Protége and decided upon the Sentra. (I dropped consideration of the Saturn.) We had our pros and cons on each, and this website helped alot. I also read The insider's Guide to Buying a New or Used Car by Burke Leon and Stephanie Leon and What Car Dealers Won't Tell You by Bob Elliston.
We went around trying to get the best price, trying to create competition between dealers. It looked like everyone was sitting on about $6XX over dealer's invoice ($13,699 and $13,648). They were very pleased to show us their invoice with the Advertising Adjustment. I was confused because the AA hadn't come up in my research. I wanted to buy a car at a fair price to me and at a fair profit to the company. I assumed they'd get a fair profit because they are professionals. I have never bought a new car before.
My domestic partner called on this ad I had cut out of Sunday's paper. It gave $12,999 as a no haggle deal for the exact car I wanted. She called and asked for all costs and fees. It looked good. We went out there, and it was a real bid, not a bait and switch or something. The price they gave us on our aged car was $90 over wholesale (as gotten from www.kelleybluebook.com), and we signed.
So they made the $375.96 hold-back (we think 100% profit because we literally bought the car directly off the truck) and the $243 over invoice, not counting any profit on our trade-in. We got a better deal through our bank for the financing. They were extremely nice.
So my theory now is that if I were going out to buy, I would go around to the dealers and talk to them about buying right off the truck, like "When do you have a 2001 Nissan Sentra with these options arriving? I offer you [say $300 over dealer's invoice] when it arrives." With that deal, they get all of the hold-back, i.e, they haven't used any of it for financing the vehicle on their lot, and the $300 profit over what they paid for the vehicle. Basically that is what my deal was.
Also you can look in the paper and watch for deals that look like this. Dealers apparently know there are people out there who know what they want to buy but haven't found the right price yet. I think they attempt to harvest those ready-to-buys-at-the-right-price people.
I am sorry about writing so long a response. I hope every bit of it is very helpful.