Older Acura TLs

[Deleted User] · October 2001

At this rate, we should see the new 2010's in January of 2003.

Jeez. I thought August and September was pushing it for the following model year.

In Europe, a 2003 is sold in 2003. Kooky isn't it.

wing5nut · October 2001

jamiestockman...I'd be interested in any news regarding the '03 RL. Thanks!

wing5nut

imoimo · October 2001

People flash their headlights at me! All the time. It really annoys me now. I usually flash my high beam at them to let them know that's the HID light is not on high. I guess people aren't used to white bright lights yet. But I'm starting to think, is it too soon to buy a car with HID while it seems that not that many people know they exist and they flash their high beams at you every night. I'm afraid one night one of them would stop me and tell me that my TL's headlight is 'blinding' them.

jamiestockman · October 2001

We use to hear rumors about the "next RL" frequently, but they seem to have died down recently. The word use to be a V8, or RWD, or a larger 3.8L V6. I'll be letting everyone on the boards know once things become more clear.

Jamie S.

kellymj · October 2001

To those who have shopped recently, how does $28500 + TT&T sound for a 3.2TL plus wheel locks and mud flaps?

advisor1 · October 2001

Got mine last Thursday. Great car, however I have a few minor gripes:
1. The rear seat legroom needs to increase by 1 inch.
2. The windscreen is raked too steeply and intrudes on front passenger and driver
headroom.
3. Needs to have smaller gaps around the front doors.
That said, this is a really great ride when I compare with the competition in terms of
features, safety, price and comfort.

joelhe · October 2001

I found that the new DVD v2.05 is available online at:

http://www.acura.com/engineering/eng_navigation.asp

Unfortunately, the same site lists only the detailed (street level) coverage areas for last year's v2.03 which covers only about 130 towns and metropolitan areas in the lower 48 states.

Does anyone have information on which new detailed coverage areas were added for 2002?

Joel

joelhe · October 2001

A friend told me about a recent article in "Car & Driver" about using lower octane gas in modern cars where the manufacturer recommends high octane. The main point is that you can use the lowest octane fuel that does not knock in your car. They could only see slightly better performance with high octane fuel in racing trials, but not in normal use.

Based on this, I tried a tankful 89 octane in my 2000 TL and could see no difference. I am now running a tankful of 87 and can't tell the difference. Has anyone else tried this?

Opinions? - Joel

(Interested in technical opinions only, not on whether it makes sense to save a few dollars on gas relative to spending over 30K on a car.)

inky · October 2001

93 octane is only .10 more in tulsa so I buy it.
I have tried lower octane on trips and see not difference either. I think you would see some difference in rapid acceleration etc but not in normal driving. If it knocks off 5 HP so what--as long as engine timing is retarded by computer.
INKY

fwatson · October 2001

Different car, same situation. My Millenia P Owners Manual "recommends" premium, with the option of no lower than 87 octane. It says there may be a small decrease in performance.

The car came with 93 octane from the dealer, and I did not refill until 286 miles. I then switched to 87 octane, and have never looked back. There is absolutely no decrease in performance between that first 286 miles, and the 3600 miles that have followed. No knock, ping, or any other sign of a problem. This premium gasoline myth has been going on for so long, it almost rivals the 300 mpg carburetor myth.

Unless your manual "requires" premium, I say put 87 in it, and keep the extra change. That is not being cheap, it is using your head.

maxzoey · October 2001

Since my owners' manual calls for Premium fuel, Iwill gladly fill it with it unless
Acura me different.

Knocking:

Does everyone who is putting regular fuel in(vehicle operation under 4000 ft above
sea level) know how a knock sensor works? Once aknock is sensed (based on a particular frequency), the ECU will back off on thetiming (you won't hear this). This is why is it less efficient because the engine is not igniting the mixture completely so you will yield worst mileage. However, the amount the ECU can delay the timing is finite. Given a nice hot and humid day runningnear or at full load, the propensity for knocking is greatly increase and if the ECU has maxed the delay, the engine will just knock along as your rings and pistons take
some massive abuse. (Remember you are igniting the mixture which is exploding
where the piston travel is colliding with the expanding force as it tries to compress.
This is the pinging that one hears. And you see how powerful your car is? So imagine that in opposite effect!)

An engine is pretty noisy to begin with. If you (the driver/owner) actually hear the engine knocking, that simply means that damage is occurring to your engine. If I were leasing my Acura, I probably wouldn't care but I would like to keep this car a while.
so...

Octane:

The higher the octane number (AKI), the harder is it to ignite. However, there is more latent energy stored in the molecule chains. Ever wonder why race cars use 104 or 110 octane fuel? It is dyno proven the amount of HP is gained. Also, the added protection of a lowered risk of knocking. This means they can advance the spark timing to yield a more complete and efficient
burn. The lower the octane rating, the easier it is to burn, the greater the chance of knocking.

Good luck in your choice of gas rating. If Acura
lied to us in the owners' manual,
then the above explanation goes out the window. I think I will stick with Premium Fuel.

rosborn_60 · October 2001

No, I'm not an anti-social nutcase. I think I have real proof that Raleigh dealerships are taking advantage of their customer base. Read on...

Just bought a non-nav TL last night and I'm still buzzing. I love this car. If anyone is looking for getting one of these (or any other car) for a low price, do not shop in Raleigh, NC. I live in Raleigh and there are only two Acura dealers nearby, one in Cary and the other in Chapel Hill. For anyone not familiar with this area, those two locations are a bit more "upscale", and I suspect the dealerships has adopted a "price fixing" attititude because of their location.

Details:
I called the dealership in Cary to "fish around" about how eager they were to move TL's. As I expected, they gave the 'ol "These cars are moving fast, and we don't really have to deal on them" routine. Fine. So then I called the dealership in Greensboro. When they started talking about the "Permashine" or whatever paint coating I knew immediately that this was not a place to buy a car. I then called Winston-Salem and told the guy I wanted 28k "out the door" (including TTT) they said they wouldn't go that low, but gave a very reasonable counter offer.

Armed with that info, I went into the dealership in Cary. I drove the car and then we started the "fun" stage of talking price. Not wanting to waste much time, I pretty much hit the guy with, "Here's the deal, I need you to meet or beat this price...". He gave the ol' "There's no dealership in the country that will sell for this" and "We need to stay in business" story. I walked out the door in about 30 seconds.

Then I called the dealership in Fayetteville. Over the phone, he matched the Winston-Salem offer. Before heading down to Fayetteville, I called the Chapel Hill dealer and they also refused to meet the offer.

I drove down to Fayetteville (about an hour) and bought the car. The salesman stayed over an hour late waiting for me to drive down. They didn't try to pull any "bait and switch" tricks or anything. A very pleasant experience. The car had 5 miles on it, lug locks, pinstripes, and was shined up real nice. The funny thing is, both the Cary and Fayetteville dealerships are owned by the same person (Leith). So it appears not to be a company policy, but rather a location policy.

A friend of mine had a similar experience when he bought his BMW. Saved thousands going down to Fayetteville. Raleigh dealerships do not deal - period.

Here's something else, although Fayettevile is not as big as Raleigh, the dealership showroom was much nicer and they many more cars. The Cary Acura showroom doesn't even compare.

And for those of you who think that you should buy a car where you get it serviced, I ask you when's the last time the service department asked or even cared where you bought your car? If they ever refuse service just because you didn't buy from them they are begging for a lawsuit. If you buy that line, then you are probably the type to buy the "permashine" and all the other bullsh*t add-ons, so of course they want your overpaying business. Acura warranty is Acura warranty no matter where you are in US. And guess what? If and when I need warranty service I'll go to the local dealer. Seems a pity that they did not want to participate in the "me giving them something (money)" part, and will only end up with the "them giving me something (free service)" part. In this case, it went into the same pocket anyway, so what the hell.

Call me cheap, but I have a great new car and I basically made a $500 an hour for two hours last night to boot! And one of those hours was driving a brand new car.

Final thought:
I realize that dealerships do need to make a profit. I did not post the actual price I paid because it's up to individuals to get their own deal. The main point I wanted to make is that if you want to save money, you owe it to yourself not to simply accept your local dealers price.

hunter001 · October 2001

I think the myth that "one has to buy the car from the dealership where one services it", is just that...a myth.

Dealerships are set up along the lines of multiple profit centers. One of them is the Sales profit center. The 2nd one is the Service profit center and the last one is the Parts profit center. All three of them talk to each other, and otherwise try to push the dealership but in no way would they lose business just because you bought your car from somewhere else. All three of them are functionally independent (of course headed by the GM of the dealership) and try to maximise their individual profit margins. They would care less if the car was bought elsewhere and it would be foolish on their part to lose money just because of egoistic tendencies.

So, if you feel your time is worth driving to a dealership a little farther away, I think you should go ahead and do that and then service it at the dealership that suits you.

I have found dealerships with excellent Sales Departments but had lousy Service depts and vice versa. For purchasing, I would go to the dealership with the better sales dept, while for servicing, I would prefer the other one. Makes good economic sense from my perspective.

Later...AH

mad97 · October 2001

Has anyone experienced a kind of insulation material noise coming from the sun roof on their Type-S? I would appreciate any feedback / experience....this is a 2002 Type-S. It's really noticeable since everything else is so damn quiet inside. Thanks!

antonk · October 2001

Help me guys! I'm trying to sell my TL-S, but apparently I'm not allowed to do it on here. Do you know any good places to advertise or people to talk to?

Thanks a lot!

pat · October 2001

antonk, try the Edmunds.com Used Power Shopper - I think that's exactly what you are looking for.

Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board

maxzoey · October 2001

antonk try the acura TL site at

www.acura-tl.com

they have a board with things for sale at its geared to people who own and are looking for your type of car.

antonk · October 2001

Thanks for the advice, but I'm in Canada, and the Power Shopper won't take my postal code.

imoimo · October 2001

I used the mode on the A/C for the first time on my 2002 TL last night, the windshield fog up so I turned the AC to 23 and used the mode so the fan was blowing towards the windshield and inside. No sound for up & down arrow, nor just the up or the down, but when switch to windshield & down, there's seems to be a whining noise very faint, but I can hear it with the radio on. Of course I can alway have the CD or radio on so I won't hear it, but does anyone has this weird sound coming out from their air cond? Another question, when you use the defroster, do you have to turn the temp down to, say 18 or 19?? Thanks for any response.

lenscap · November 2001

When you use the defroster, you must have the AC on and the air set to fresh. If it is on recirculating the windows will fog up.

jdigeorgio · November 2001

I had posted earlier about the "jiggly" ride on my 2002 TL. It seems that tire air pressure was a major factor in this. The Acura Customer Relations people told me to check the tire pressure to make sure this wasn't the culprit. I was doubtful but I checked the tires and I had 25 psi in 3 tires and 1 tire was actually around 22 psi. I know this sounds neglectful but the tires didn't "look" low even at these low pressures. There was no bulging sidewall etc. Furthermore, it was not that long ago that I had put 30 psi in each tire (down from 38 psi as delivered from the factory!) Anyway, I put 34 psi in each tire and the ride is now 100% better. If you have this car (or any car for that matter), it's best to watch the tire pressure closely (and use a gauge) - I know that I will from now on. I had no idea that tire pressure could influence the ride quality that much.

imoimo · November 2001

When you use the defroster, doesn't the air conditioning turn on automatically, (when temp. is set to auto) and the air flow changes to fresh?

And, I noticed a faint line along the side of of the 2 side mirrors, they look quite the same to me. Are they just the joint of the 2 piece of metal for the mirror? Do all of you TL owner have that?

sau1 · November 2001

I took delivery of my new TL w/NAV two weeks ago. Because the car is so quiet (quieter than my previous 2000 TL) I can hear all the rattle in the cockpit very clearly. It seems they come from two sources. The first is the loose center console locking mechanism (you can grab the armrest and kind of shake it to create the rattle). I told the dealer and it says it will fix it even it means replacing the whole console. But my 2000 TL center console is also loose but no rattle comes from it. The second source of rattle comes from somewhere near on the passager side. It seems coming from the vent nearest to the window, but I am not too sure. Still trying to track it down. The noise comes and goes, but it is definitely there. Very annoying.

[Deleted User] · November 2001

You should be checking your tire pressure weekly. If you do it at each fillup, you'll be set.

tgif888 · November 2001

The center console problem is a well known problem. If your dealer really want ot fixed it, the whole center console needs to be replaced.

About the passenger side rattle, will it be the seatbelt?

fishmonger1 · November 2001

There is a service bulletin on the sunroof. I complained to the dealer of high wind noise the day after I took delivery. They said it was a common problem, and replaced the shim around the sunroof. Afterwards, it was immediately evident that the sunroof fit more tightly.

Unfortunately...

The wind noise continues to be excessive at high speeds, and I don't know what to do next. Can't tell if it's just high expectations or my imagination or a defect or if another repair of some kind is needed.

wtierney · November 2001

I also noticed the noise near passange vent. I think it is the air conditioner/compressor. Seems to come on every few seconds and disappeared when ac off. I test drove 02 and a 98 TL and both made same noise. I was also turned off by the exhaust on the 99-02 TL which is an eyesore when car is viewed from behind

sau1 · November 2001

Am pretty sure I found where it is squeaking and rattling. It has to be from the passenger's seat. Drove it this morning and it squeaks and rattles. I stop the car and the squeak stops, so it cannot be from the a/c. I also hold the passenger's seat belt when the car is moving and the squeak continued. Then I picked up someone and when he sat on the passenger's seat all squeaks stopped.

Must be something underneath the seat, or within the seat.

varmit · November 2001

Might be something in the seat heaters. Maybe the heating pad has shifted and is rubbing against something else?

dychung1015 · November 2001

Anyone installed the wind deflector? Does it reduce wind noise and turbulence significantly when the sunroof is opened. I am thinking to get one and install it myself. Is the installation straight forward or I have to pay someone to do it.

inky · November 2001

I find it useful, stylish and it is easy to install. Very simple. Order online to save money.
About $46 at most online stores discussed on this and other forums.
INKY

dychung1015 · November 2001

IF I order the deflector through online stores, what's included in the kit (assuming not just have the deflector alone), tape, screws....may be?? How about installation instruction?

Thanks

hunter001 · November 2001

It is extremely easy to install. With a screw-driver, it will take you 5 minutes or so. It is also removable, due to which you can dismantle it in a jiffy (again in 5 minutes) and use it only when needed.

Installation instructions would come along with the package.

Later...AH

inky · November 2001

http://hondacuraworld.com/frame.html

$46.80 very simple. Enjoy

INKY

sau1 · November 2001

I thought I found the source to be the passenger seat, but I am less sure now. I now think it is the a/c after all. It squeaks and rattles when I go over rough roads, and it stops when the car goes on smooth surface or stops. Apparently it only happens when the a/c is cooling the cockpit. When it is cooler at night, there is no squeaks or rattles. I will have to take it to the dealer to check it out.

hrvat · November 2001

When will Acura build cars that people can actually sit in without their head touching the ceiling?

I'm 5 foot 10 1/2 and can't sit down in the car without my head grazing the top, despite the fact that the seat is positioned as low as possible. Is Acura marketing their product only to the midget population (no offense to midgets of course)?

I'm about average height for a male, so that means that about half the male population can't fit inside this car. This is a shame considering the TL is a VERY attractive looking car and is fun to drive.

Does anyone know if the 2003's will have more headroom and is Acura aware of this problem, or are all of their designers less than 5 feet tall?

hunter001 · November 2001

No offense to you, but I am 6'1" tall (for reference purposes, I stand 2 and a half inches over you) and I have about an inch and a half of spare headroom over my head. Maybe you have a longer torso than legs that accounts for this ?!!! Nothing to do with "midgets" does it ?

Later...AH

varmit · November 2001

I guess it depends on how you like to sit. I'm also 6'1" and can fit comfortably. There isn't much clearance, but I do fit.

varmit · December 2001

Has anyone replaced the stock shift knob with a burlwood piece? If so, how did you get the leather one off? The burlwood knob appears to screw onto the shaft in two parts. The chrome collar tightens in one direction and the knob screws on in the other. So I assumed that the old is supposed to come off that way. But it's stuck. I don't want to damage the original collar by taking a set of vise grips to it.

stephen36 · December 2001

You remove the old knob by unscrewing it. It is on a bit tight, though. Also, you may have to adjust the screw inside the Burlwood knob to let it screw down to cover all the threads.

varmit · December 2001

Got it. The chrome collar around the base was the problem. I found instructions on how to remove the knob for the NSX and, sure enough, it's a similar design. There's two tabs that hold the collar into place. You have to stick something sharp, like a thin knife blade, under the edges of the collar. Then you simply yank it downward. The knob itself screws off as you described. Thanks.

qali · December 2001

I am looking for some advice on the fuel type to be used in my TL. In Canada Acura recommends 91 or higher octane rating to be used. Most pumps in the Toronto region do not have 91, but rather 89.5, 92 or 94. What are the advantages (if any) in putting 94 gas in the TL ? If I may also ask, what are the disadvantages of putting 89.5, other than less than peak power performance from the engine ?

tpbudde · December 2001

I'm shopping for a 2002 TL in the Baton Rouge / New Orleans area. Can anyone tell me what price they have paid recently, and from which dealer?

Also, any new word on the release of the 2003 model. (When, and what differences?) It may be better to wait a couple of months before buying.

Thanks.

maxzoey · December 2001

qali see my post #1011.. I will stick to premium feul. I have read that prolonged use of regular feul in a car that calls for use of premium will eventually cause problems , burning out the catalytic converer, and cause engine wear . I will stick to pemium feul, forwhat it costs over a year,about +$250. I would rather be safe than sorry later.

maxima_rocks · December 2001

I'm shopping for a 2002 TL-Type S in the Dallas/Fortworth area . Can anyone tell me what price they have paid recently, and from which dealer?
Also, what is the best APR can I get through a Acura Dealer.

Thanks.

tomsr · December 2001

I took my 2001 3.2TL in for a 15K service and like to had a heart attack when they said $176.
They said it's the normal charge by Acura.I threatened to take my business elsewhere so they
dropped it to $87.The car was done in less than an hour.What other experiences have you had?An oil change and inspection shouldn't cost so much.
If I change my own oil what about the inspection
part of maintenance?

phlee70 · December 2001

My Dad's 2001 TL did not come with Splash guards. If I order online do they come in a set of 2 or a set of 4?

godeacs · December 2001

price sounds about right. When you buy a premium car expect to pay premium prices for service. Would have thought you'd check out service costs prior to purchase, I know I do. You'd better prepare yourself for the 30K service - it's a lot higher....lol

Hope you didn't use up much goodwill with your "threats"....

eimeria · December 2001

I'm looking for a '02 TLS in the Philadelphia-NJ-MD-DC area. Anyone have any recent prices (with and without Nav)?

How about finance rates from Acura?

suv2002 · December 2001

eimeria--

I just bought a TL-s w/o Nav for $30,000 from Acura of Ocean in NJ. They offered a lease of $359 a month but I'm not sure of the duration because I bought the car outright.

Good luck.

BTW, I love the car. Rides and handles like a dream with plenty of power. Now if it only had the interior of the new Lexus ES300, that would really be a dream car.

Older Acura TLs

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