Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Rose, do you live in a large Texas city with several Hyundai dealers? If so, you should be able to negotiate a better deal than $12,130 due to the competition and current market. I'm assuming that figure includes destination and is for a 5-speed, and does not include tax and license. I bought a pkg 2 5-speed back in October, when the best price quote I got was $11,700. But I've noticed this week that some dealers in my area are advertising super-low prices on Elantras, as low as $10,995 (no pkg 2), whereas earlier the lowest advertised prices were around $11,700. May be due to the softening economy, high inventories, Memorial Day sales etc. So if I were you I'd shoot for well below $12,000, e.g. try a counteroffer of $11,400 and see what they say. If they don't follow you when you walk out, you'll need to find another dealer or come up some.

    Re the Corolla, according to Edmunds Used Car pricing, the dealer is offering a fair deal for a car with that kind of miles and some "problems". Edmunds says a DX 4-dr (an assumption, you didn't say what model it is) in "rough" shape (needing work) in Austin (another assumption, but I used to live there so I knew the zip code) should fetch around $3900 on a trade-in and around $4400 if sold to a private party. If you can get the dealer to come down some on the Elantra price, you might just want to sell your Corolla to the dealer and avoid the hassles and cost of selling it yourself. Also, isn't the trade-in value deducted from the price of the new car when calculating sales tax (it's that way in Minnesota)? That could save you a few hundred on tax, making the trade-in proposition look even better.
  • txrosetxrose Member Posts: 7
    No, I am in a small TX city, one Hyundai dealership, next closest is 60 miles, then 100 miles, so I am kind of stuck. They said $12,136 is their cost, which I don't believe, but do believe it is just a little above invoice. And as far as the Toyota you are probably right, I should just let them have it, "a bird in the hand" so to speak. Well, thanks for answering, I appreciate your help.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If the Elantra you got a quote on is in fact a 5-speed pkg 2, then $12,130 is not the dealer's cost--but it's close. According to Edmunds New Car price calculator, the invoice price, less $500 rebate, is $11,925. You might try printing out Edmund's figures and show them. So it looks like your dealer is offering you a decent deal, actually less than Edmund's TMV. Whether you want to try to do better by contacting the dealers 60-100 miles away is up to you--it's your time and money. Have you tried calling these other dealers to see if they will give you a quote over the phone (many will not)? By acting a little unsure about it at the dealership, maybe you could coax your local dealer to at least toss in some free oil changes. Personally, I'd tend to go with the local dealer where I will go for service, even if I could save a few bucks going somewhere else, if they have been fair with me. Good luck!
  • gnevgnev Member Posts: 6
    Don't ever buy a car from Giuffree Hyundai in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn,NY.
    They are the biggest scam artists around.
    They'll rob you blind if your not looking.
    Spread the word, New Yorkers
  • fdnyfdny Member Posts: 5
    I am from this neighborhood and they have quoted me the best price for the elantra gls but I decided to wait fot the GT to come out. I would greatly appreciate any details about their dealings. Thanks
  • bobbibbobbib Member Posts: 3
    I've been reading this board for about a month now and finally bought my package 5 Elantra this week. Did BlastFax in the Chicago and Milwaukee metro areas and bought it from the Internet Sales Manager at Northwest Valley in Elgin, Illinois for $12,998 (after rebate) with package 5, floor mats and mudguards (invoice is $15,084). Had to settle for midnight grey in order to get the lowest price. Package 5 is pretty difficult to find and the only dealer with a silver one (my preferred color) wouldn't budge from $13,495 after rebate and the relatively limited supply of package 5's put the dealer in a decent negotiating position. Northwest Valley was great--I was in and out of there in about an hour and a half. 700 miles and I love this car!
  • jkbwilliamsjkbwilliams Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 01' Elantra group 3 over the weekend. I now have 240 mi on it and when I start it up(and while driving for that matter) I am noticing a noise or two from the engine that wasn't there the previous 235 miles. 1st noise is a ticking -- not exactly like a lifter tick but close-- in the engine (definitely in the engine area) and it gets louder as the rpms go up, weather I am accelerating or running up the rpm's in neutral. The second noise is hard to explain, something like a running fan blade that is slightly touching metal. I am dropping it off at the dealer first thing tomorrow but I was wondering if anybody else has experienced this problem and how it was remedied.
  • ajalgerajalger Member Posts: 5
    Bobbib- I too am looking for a Pkg 5 Elantra in MA. I am wondering what your BlastFax method is.. I have had trouble with dealers even having the pkg 5 cars, but there are plenty of dealers within reasonable distance. Is the breaking better with the pkg 5? I really want ABS as all my last cars have had ABS, but am wondering if the feel is better also. Thanks
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Member Posts: 211
    Take a look at the power steering pulley.

    I hate to bring this problem up , as I too would like to forget about it.

    I had a noise similar to that (another guy did too) and it ended up being the power steering pulley.

    Just before it fell off it made a noise like the passenger door was not completely shut.

    Your problem may be different, however do check the pulley for tightness and let us know.

    Tony
  • bobbibbobbib Member Posts: 3
    ajalger--
    I actually just moved from Boston to Chicago and considered buying the car out there. Mirak Hyundai in Arlington had one package 5 that I test drove, but other than that, I'm not sure how common they are out there. I didn't test drive a non-ABS Elantra because I knew I wanted the added safety and if I couldn't find one I was willing to buy a Sentra instead. I'm really happy with the ABS brakes and overall the car feels really sturdy.

    As far as the BlastFax goes, I wrote a fax that was fewer than 10 sentences long. I simply said that I was looking for an Elantra, package 5, automatic, preferably in pewter, but flexible on color, and I would buy that week from the dealership that offered me the lowest price. I sent it to about 20 dealerships (I was willing to drive about three hours to get a good deal). Several responded right away, most saying that they didn't have any and could locate one for me. A couple others made offers that were just below sticker and I had two that offered $12,998. My best advice is to be VERY careful of promises to get you one. I had one dealer tell me that he could have a silver one for me the next day and was all ready to take a credit card number until I insisted (thank god) that he fax me a letter stating the terms of our contract and the date I could expect delivery (which was the next day or the day after). I never heard from him again.

    One other word of advice: I would suggest doing the BlastFax about a week before you want to buy. If you immediately get a good deal on the car you want, you can buy it right away, but if dealerships don't have any, they'll call you immediately when they get one off the truck. I was told that Hyundai's distribution system doesn't tell the dealers where en route the cars are, so they know that they're getting, say, three package 5's in, but they don't know when--could be tomorrow or three weeks. So I had several dealers (including the one I bought from) call me to tell me that a package 5 arrived in the days after they first told me they didn't have any.

    hope that helps! I can't tell you how happy I am with this car!
  • scottdudescottdude Member Posts: 177
    I'm thinking about buying an Elantra even though they look kind of like a typical econ-box (my opinion). Was thinking a spoiler on the back might jazz it up some and was wondering if anyone here knows how much this add-on costs?
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    I bought mine a week after I purchased my 2000 elantra. Separately, it cost me $400 for it...That includes spoiler itself, painted and installed. Before you purchase the car, see if you can work getting the spoiler into the price to purchase the car...YOu probably can get it cheaper that way. Thats what I should have done. Anyway, it really spruced up the rear end a bit. It's light weight and does not create a blind spot while backing up..you can't see it period! It also has a nice long LED light in it as well. Gives it a sport compact look.
  • jkempskiejkempskie Member Posts: 49
    Yeah, I have that engine tick noise to my '01 Elantra everyday... exactly as you describe it, and for me it only occurs when the car's engine is cold (like the morning). I have the 5-speed- do you? I just brought the car in for my first oil change at 3750 mi. but didn't have the opportunity to ask about it. I'm not terribly worried about it, but when I asked about it here at Edmunds, no one replied saying they'd experienced the same thing. Glad I'm not alone, anyway. Let me know what your dealer says about it.

    JEFF
  • jkbwilliamsjkbwilliams Member Posts: 2
    O.k. I have yet to hear the two noises coming from the engine area again that I had described in my earlier message. I didn't take my Elantra in but spoke with the service mgr. over the phone. He said he doesn't doubt that it was a lifer tick that I heard and that it could be quite normal. According to him when the engine is initially lubricated there is some sort of system for injecting the oil into the lifer section (not a mechanic here -- he says the system isn't 100% goof-proof but should clear up with time) and that for the first few hundred miles or so it will be normal to hear the tick off and on but should go away after the break-in period. Anyway, after hearing the two noises for that brief 3 mi. period I haven't heard them again and have since put on another 120 mi.

    To Mr.(Ms.) jkempskie: Keep us updated and let us know if changing the oil helped the situation.
  • bought2bought2 Member Posts: 3
    don't let the service manager tell you that lifter noise is normal !!! my 2000 elantra did the same thing it got louder and louder it was louder when it was cold and then it got softer as the car heated up ... it was a rod bearing as the car got hot it expanded i had to have my engine replaced at 5000 miles there is no way that that car should have any lifter noise with that few miles!!!! I had to call the manufacturer to get this problem takin care of...
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I agree with bought2, don't settle for the "it's normal" story. If it were normal, it would happen with every new Elantra, which of course it doesn't, since mine has never had any kind of ticking noise (have 4000 mi on it now). You might want to bring it in to the dealer to be checked; even if they can't find the problem, you will have a written service record of the problem that could come in handy later (e.g. "secret" warranties, lemon laws).
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Elantra made Edmunds Top 5 list for June - best cars for a recent college grad. Link is on the home page or at

    http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top5/46519/article.html
  • nystlrnystlr Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, Well looks like i'm headed back to the dealer for the second time in less than two months.First prob. was a cross threaded gas cap which activated the check engine light the night I took the car home from the dealer.Now the weatherstripping on both rear doors has pulled out of the channel and gets in the way of closing the doors. We've had a lot of rain here on Long Island NY the past couple of weeks, don't know if the moisture caused the weatherstriping to stick pulling it off when the doors were opened.Besides this annoyance I really do love the car. Month and a half and just cracked 1000 miles glad the rain stopped now maybe I can enjoy my moonroof. I'll let you know how I make out.
  • bought2bought2 Member Posts: 3
    my elantra is only getting 19 miles to the gal. in town it has about 6800 miles on it can anybody tell me if this is norm?? does it get better??
    as i stated in 1063, i had to replace the engine at 5000 miles i wonder if this has anything to do with it ?????
  • tazerelitazereli Member Posts: 241
    bought,

    That is well below the norm for car such as the elantra. My 94 F150 pushes 18 mpg and thats with a small V8. No way shoud a 4 cyl get that kind fo mileage unless you are constantly flooring it and i mean al the time. Go straight to the dealer. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.

    Kyle
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    when they replace a part that big, it will never run the same again.. sure, the engine is brand new, but the car itself has more miles then the engine now, so it will not have been properly broken in. That could be the cause of poor gas mileage. You have a well broken in transmission matted to a brand new engine. That could be the result of poor gas mileage and new engines always use up more gas when they are brand new. Over time, it will even out somewhat and everything should be pretty much ok.
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Member Posts: 211
    I have an 01 Elantra with auto and consistently get 31ish combined highway/city miles.

    I have had as high as 38 steady interstate for an entire tank.

    In the city I get 28ish.

    I do drive it medium hard. I will say that you can almost see the gas gauge drop if you floor it to pass someone !

    Tony
  • dplatnycdplatnyc Member Posts: 17
    I am trying to decide whether to buy a GLS now or wait until the GT becomes widely available and initial glitches are resolved. My hesitation is over carting capacity. What do people think about the luggage capacity of the GLS? There are usually only two of us in the car, so we could fold the seats down if necessary. The trunk looked kind of small to me.
  • griffey2griffey2 Member Posts: 6
    I'm in Washington state, and have been checking with various dealers on prices. My local dealer (Spokane) basically lists MSRP and barters, but there's a dealer called Car Pro Hyundai in Lacey that is offering base Elantras at $10,558 and they want you to add the extras separately in lieu of buying a package (i.e. get myself an aftermarket AM/FM/CD & they'd install it, also they'd sell me Hyundai cruise & alarm/keyless & would install it).

    I had wanted a Package 3, but they said to buy the car at $10,558 and they would put on the above extras separately for about $750, the cost of the package.

    Does this sound kosher to you all? They claim to be #4 in Hyundai sales in the US and #1 regionally. I'm a little wary--how can they sell the car for so much under invoice?

    Thanks for any advice!
  • jkempskiejkempskie Member Posts: 49
    Although the trunk is of somewhat average size in my opinion, the pass through between the trunk and rear seats is much smaller than normal- not sure why. Unless you plan to cart around big, long objects, it's not much of a problem. Otherwise, wait for the GT and the extra goodies.

    JK
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I think you've answered your own question. The dealer makes its profit on the add-ons. For example, they can get an aftermarket radio/CD for as little as $100. Also they would have the factory radio/cassette to use for some other purpose. I don't know the price of the Hyundai cruise and keyless entry but the package price for that is $400, so the cost of the parts is probably less. So the dealer could easily make $3-400 by adding the parts. Is it kosher? Why not, as long as they are clear about what they are offering you, i.e. what is the quality of the stereo? Will it compare to the 6-speaker unit in pkg 3? Will the cruise and keyless/alarm they install be covered under the Hyundai new car warranty?
  • browneybrowney Member Posts: 104
    Anybody have a problem with their glove box light working?
    I recently installed a filter for the A/C-Heating system which is located behind the glovebox.
    I noticed during the install that the light wasn't on. (actually did not know the vehicle came with a light in there since it never worked)
    Main reason I'm asking is because I have the shop manuals and after checking the circuit in the car it looks like the wiring harness is wrong from the factory.
    Curious to see if this is a common problem or just a "Monday Morning Hangover" screwup.
  • dwangyahoodwangyahoo Member Posts: 12
    Does the 2001 Elantra have a cabin air filter? It's not mentioned in brochures or anything else I've read. If so, that's one more reason for me to get the Elantra!
  • jaki30jaki30 Member Posts: 73
    Check your glove box light with the headlight switch on. Believe it or not,
    the glove box light is only on when the headlights are on. This is on my
    wifes' 2001 Infiniti I-30.
    I am looking at the 2000 Elantra wagon (AT) to replace my 93 Crown Vic.
    Anyone have an opinion on the 2000 or 1999? (I want the 2.0L eng)
  • browneybrowney Member Posts: 104
    Thanks to jaki30. The glove box light does work only when the headlights are on. This does not match the wiring diagrams in the shop manual.
    Never had a car where the glove box light was tied to the headlights.

    dwangyahoo, the cabin air filter is mentioned on page 1-59 of the owners manual. It is listed as optional. I imagine it only comes standard on the vehicles that have automatic climate control.
    I made a filter for it out of a universal furnace filter I got from Home Depot. Hoping this will keep the pollen out of the car. My vents were actually green from it.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    On an Elantra?
  • liljonsonliljonson Member Posts: 109
    their is in korea but i don't think here yet, right?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My Elantra's glove box light works without the headlights on. Also, I drove a rental Elantra last week and noticed that it has an (annoying) chime to tell you to buckle the seat belt (no posts please re using seat belts; I use it but don't normally buckle before I start the car). My Elantra doesn't do this (thank goodness). So maybe its wiring is messed up? If so, I'm not sure I want to fix it if it means getting the seat belt chime.

    Re cabin air filter--has anybody installed the Hyundai filter for the Elantra? How hard was it? How much do they cost? Do they impede the air flow any?
  • jkempskiejkempskie Member Posts: 49
    liljonson, hkchan

    Correct. The auto climate control is only available on Elantras in Korea (as is leather, navigation system, and more). The system it uses in Korea, though, appears to be exactly the same unit as that in the U.S. 300 XG.

    Here is my mini-review of my white 5-spd 2001 Elantra after 4200 miles.

    Now that I've had the car a couple months and have driven it quite a bit, I feel I'm pretty familiar with the ins and outs of it. I still like the looks of the car- in white it gets dirty-looking pretty easy, but it looks great when clean.

    I find the engine to be pretty powerful. Though I take it easy in general, more recently I've pushed the car into the 5-6000 rpm range while going onto the highway, for example. The engine screams a healthy scream and pulls you along very quickly! Once you throw in 2 or 3 people in the car, however, the power quickly diminishes. I was actually surprised how much weaker it got with a total of 4 people in the car in suburban driving.

    My gas mileage started off at 27-28 mpg and has moved up to 30-32 mpg, mixed driving. I'm satisfied with the range of this car (in terms of the gas tank). I've typically achieved tanks of 360-390 miles on 12+ gallons of gas.

    I like the 5-speed. This being my first manual tranny ever, I have nothing to compare it to. All I can say is that it's easy shifting gear to gear, not too bad getting into reverse. The clutch really loosened up a lot between 1400 and 2400 miles and still seems to be adjusting. I think this is normal.

    Though the brakes don't thrill me (particularly when quickly slowing from fast highway speeds), they're acceptable in my opinion. Would've liked the ABS, though.

    I am satisfied with the climate system. The AC works fine for my purposes. It gets a little smelly at times, but nothing horrible. Concerning heat, the car warms up extremely quickly- it's a surprise.

    The CD player is pretty good. I would prefer to be able to see the track time instead of just the track (cost cutting). The scan button isn't my favorite. Wish it were set up a little different... it's just a simple little unit. Cruise control works excellent despite the little lever which often hits my leg.

    Cabin noise is fine and what I think one should expect in this price range. It won't amaze you on the highway- I bet the auto is a little quieter. Still, it is acceptable and I am able to comfortably listen to the stereo as I cruise at 70 mph. At 70 mph it revs right at 3000 rpms. At times I've cruised at a consistent 75 and have gotten up to 80 and 85 mph from time to time depending on the flow of traffic. The car always feels stable and never vibrates or shakes much.

    I'm unimpressed with the quality of the trunk. The lid itself is definitely cheap. The trim inside, esp. at the seam at the bottom of the rear seats is really cheap. To make things worse, the pass thru is quite small- why I don't know!

    I don't find this car to be the most comfortable car I've owned. The seats are a bit firm for my tastes.

    I like the keyless entry system and how the interior lights turn on. I was also pleasantly surprised by the headlights, which usually shut off automatically when you leave the car (though there is a way to keep the parking lights on).

    I haven't had any real problems with this car. As I've mentioned in a previous post, I do get a kind of ticking noise from the engine when the car is cold in the morning. The noise isn't too loud but it gets louder as the RPMs rev higher. If it continues and begins to bug me I'll bring it to the dealer.

    Overall I like the Elantra a lot. The important stuff is there (engine, ride, etc.) as well as the pluses like a decent stereo and lots of storage places, good cupholders, and the very cool sunglasses holder. I highly recommend the vehicle to anyone looking for an inexpensive but well-equipped car. Just remember that it's not the most expensive car out there- it's an economy car. It won't perform miracles.

    JEFF
  • browneybrowney Member Posts: 104
    This glove box light thing is strange. I can't understand why it would be different on Elantras of the same year. It seems kind of dumb to need to turn the headlights on for the glove box light to work.
    As for the cabin filter, it appears(according to liljonson, hkchan 's post) that the XG300 may have the same sytem and actually use it.
    You might try the dealer to see if you can buy one. Since I custom made my own I can't give you a cost. Let us know if you find out.

    PS
    I haven't noticed any reduction in air flow with my custom filter which is actually a 3 stage type to filter which filters down to very fine particles. I imagine that I will have to clean it every couple of months to make sure it doesn't get clogged.
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    I have the 2000 Elantra. There is no light in my glove box period. I assume you have to have the headlights on for the light in the glove compartment go on because, both are used to see things at night. When you dont have the headlights on, its daytime and you can see fine so I assume hyundai things you can see fine in the glove box as well. Thats what I think. Strange though....Can anyone else think of a logical explanation?
  • liljonsonliljonson Member Posts: 109
    yea i don't have a light in my 2k glove box =( but i think your right about the lights being on the car for the light to go on the glove box. seems logical.
  • tarfintarfin Member Posts: 5
    The headlights shut themselves off when removing the key if I'm not mistaken. Therefore the glove compartment light being tied to the headlights gets turned off. Maybe to make sure that the battery doesn't get run down due to the glove box light being on?
  • powerworkrpowerworkr Member Posts: 5
    Looking for some experienced thought on this one. I own a 00 Elantra auto. How many miles can I expect on the odometer before major problems? And at what mileage would I expect to trade for another Elantra?
  • liljonsonliljonson Member Posts: 109
    i think you can go on FOREVER with the car if you just mantain it. i got 12K on it, i know not much but still having no problems. i showed everybody that said my hyundai was a mistake. those fools.
  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Member Posts: 1,331
    There is no way to accurately predict when you are going to have major trouble. ANY car from ANY maker can have major trouble at any time or the car may go to 100,000 before major trouble. The best way to prevent major trouble is to take care of your car.

    The mileage you should have before you trade in cannot be answered either. The answer depends on you and how well you take care of your car. The answer also depends on how often you want to have a new car.

    Happy motoring.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Carmen Tellez and Phil Reed complete the purchase of an Elantra for the Edmunds.com long term fleet - read the final installment by following the link in the Additional Resources box on the left sidebar of this page.

    If you are interested in pursuing the subject of women purchasing vehicles, please come and join us in the discussion at this link: Are women treated differently than men in the car-buying process?.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    Its not really in what brand you own, whether its a Yugo or a Honda. (OK, A Yugo may be stretching it, but you catch my drift ;) How long the car will last is more in how it is driven and cared for by the owner. If you dont wash/wax it, dont change the oil or perform proper maintance at set intervals...just gas it and go, expect big time problems before 30,000 miles. People say American cars suck and Japanese are great....All I know is that I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee along with my 2000 Hyundai Elantra that has 110,000 miles and has been pretty much flawless. Couple minor things as a small oil leak were the only unexpected surprises. Other then that, just normal routine maintance has kept the truck running strong. NO RUST OR BODY ROT. I wash it once every 2 weeks. Car still runs and looks brand new. I expect at least another 100,000 miles out of it. Now, in comparison to this, I use to have an old 1986 Toyota Corolla. I bought it used with a low 50,000 miles on it back in 1998. I got 1 year out of that car and the engine went out at 70,000 miles! Yes, 70,000 MILES!!! Just goes to show you that the owner before did not maintain the car very well if the engine pretty much died on me that young. So that just goes to show you what I think of Toyota! (Dont take this offenseively, Majorthomecho, I hope you have good luck with your echo). But this proves my point that Japanese cars and American cars (With the exception of Ford...Now they just suck period!) can last just as long as one another as long as each is PROPERLY cared for. Now, if both are not cared for, the Japanese car most likely will last longer then the American car. But if you dont change the oil in your Honda Civic ever, it will catch up with you later on. Its all in the owner...I own both foreign and domestic cars and care for each car the same and they both are reliable and haven't given me any trouble!
  • jlim1jlim1 Member Posts: 50
    I commute on the expressway that has been reconstructed since early spring. There are plenty of tar spots on the front bumper and wheel caps that I cannot get rid through car wash. I noticed that the brushes won't work too. The most effective is to scratch them off by hand !! But this is a royal pain to do.... Please help. Is there a chemical that will get rid of the tar spots without damaging the paint finish? Thanks.
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Member Posts: 211
    Try gas or nail polish remover or a shot of wd-40. Any of these should take it right off with no damage.

    Tony
  • dvdphile1dvdphile1 Member Posts: 16
    Any silicone based product (wd-40) will work fine for removing tar spots without paint damage. Spray on and let soak. Then use cotton rag damped with this solvent to finish removal. Large heavy accumulations need additional wetting and patience. To finalize wash car using warm soap and water and dry. Polish your car with your favorite polish. Hope this helps.
  • andy356andy356 Member Posts: 12
    List members:

    DO NOT use nail polish remover on your car. It is kinda like lacquer thinner, and may soften the paint. Try some on an old piece of furniture and you will see what I mean.

    Tar can be removed with gasoline or paint thinner, (mineral spirits). WD 40 will also work but is kinda expensive. Be careful with gasoline, and don't work inside the garage, where there may be a gas fired water heater.

    Andy
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    For many years I've used a bug and tar remover product from (I think) Turtle Wax that is made for cars; it's a thick liquid and you rub it on with a rag and it takes the tar/bugs right off. It's pretty cheap I recall, and one bottle lasts for several years (I think I've bought 2 in 20 years). You can get it at any auto parts department/store. Also, if wax your car frequently, then the tar comes off much more easily--often without any special cleaner.

    Re the logic behind tying the glove box light to the headlights. Anybody have a garage with no windows? I do. It's dark. Anybody ever try to open the glove box in the garage? I have. The glove box light comes in real handy. Also, there is no worry about running down the battery by leaving the glove box light on because it has a switch (also present in base model '91 Dodge Caravans and other high-tech automobiles like that) that turns off the light when you close the lid. To me, it's much more illogical to tie the glove box light to the headlights. Using the same logic, why not tie the map lights to the headlights too--you only need them in the dark, right? :)
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Member Posts: 211
    Hi Andy, I was nto even going to reply to the question as I felt something might happen, I really should have said lighter fluid but all of this stuff is dangerous.

    A commercial product is the ONLY safe way to go.

    I have used the others and had no problem, it is a delicate balance to sugget the right thing to do.

    everyone disregard the above and play it SAFE and get some product that is formulated for the purpose.

    Take care,

    Tony
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    That is a good point of the garage. I just thought that is why Hyundai did it. You use lights when its dark out and therefore, maybe that is why they tied it together. Yeah, it is silly...But that is the only logical conclusion I can think of! I have a garage without windows except for a tiny one on the door that lets NO light in. I got the 2 map lights, but they cant see directly in the glove compartment. That should be fixed for next years Elantra. Not a very good design
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