I went to my dealer an hour or so ago, and they have a loaded Elantra GT 5-door, 5-speed, with moonroof and ABS -- in my favorite color, black. Am I on the verge of trading my beloved Betsy sedan after only three years? Maybe I just need to sleep on it ...
Thanks, I already feel bad about dumping her (which I really don't wish to do).
As for price, the sale sign was down between the seats, but I think $14,500 - $15K is a reasonable guess considering how the other GTs were equipped. The only thing I would request is a grey pinstripe at the upper end of the doors. My current black pinstripe makes a nice difference on Champagne.
It'll be interesting to find out what your 01 is worth in trade, Jim. I was driving my little Betsy today, 02 5M, 38K miles..and thinking about your comments re. a new GT..I have 2 years to go on payments..probably just break even on the loan...Just a pipe dream at the moment..Other than the dreaded 60-80 shimmy..I love this car.. Jack
I had the same shimmying problem in a new Excel years ago. The dealer finally replaced the tires with Michelins, which solved the problem - until I had to rotate them.
I found that the only way to get the shimmy down to a tolerable level was go to a shop where they could balanced the wheels while they were on the car.
I would prefer to sell the car rather than trade, but I do know that I have never been "upside down" with my car loan. In a trade I could net perhaps $1K after my payoff, vs. about $2700 if I sell. This is based on Kelley's and NADA. I may stop at the dealer in a while and really check out the GT.
I'm glad you are asking about this, because I am also curious how to balance the rotors since balancing wheels usually means removing them. If on-car balancing does the trick I'll have to find a place that will do it.
Good one..I recall oncar being a popular way to balance tires awhile back..seems now the latest Hunter wheel balance balances only the wheel and tire...not the other rolling parts..I wonder... Gotta check this out...Jack
I have a 2003 Elantra 5M and have now passed the 1 year mark with essentially no problems. Failed to do the tire rotation at 7.5K and picked up some slight vibration at 70 MPH at 12K miles. Had the tires rotated after that (with the torque spec TBS pointed out to the garage) and the shimmy disappeared. If keeping the tires rotated keeps the shimmy at bay I will be a completely satisfied owner. What a great little car - big on the inside - small on the outside.
That's interesting. I've rotated tires (through the dealer) religiously every 7500 miles and have never had a shimmy problem on my '01 GLS 5M. In fact, all service has been done through one dealer, with one exception that did not involve removal of the wheels (another dealer replaced an O2 sensor). I don't know if my dealer is really good about torquing wheel nuts or not, but I wonder if there is a correlation between regular rotations and the shimmy.
I have owned a copy of the above mentioned vehicle since new. It now has 38,000 miles on it. It has had a shimmy in the steering wheel between 60 and 80 MPH since new. I have done and/or replaced virtually everything that could be reasonably expected to be a cause . All to no avail. However, this intermitent shimmy(it comes and goes at constant speeds)has abated somewhat..It is only mildly annoying now.. I brought it to the attention of my local dealer, Healey Bros Hyundai in Beacon, N.Y., who, in turn, after trying a few different things(including turning the rotors, and charging me $150) then turned it over to the regional Hyundai representative who took a ride with me and confirmed the shimmy. He then shook my hand and said we will come to some compensation. I waited 2 months and told the dealer to forget it..It was better..The Hyundai rep. never got back to me.. That was about a year ago. Hyundai better do something about their relationship with their customers, because they aren't going to have many very soon. Jack
"Hyundai better do something about their relationship with their customers, because they aren't going to have many very soon."
Between the service I am getting and the product itself with value figured in for good measure...I cant complain and would buy another Hyundai in a second.
I mean my car is almost three years old. I walk into service,hand them a TSB for Cold Start Stumble. Service manager asked me if I have the problem. I say yes. End of the day I pick the car up with new software installed and car running flawless. I'm happy.
I found a place here in Columbus (Ohio) that claims to do on-car balancing. I emailed them to ask if they think it would help me out, and I also asked how much this would cost versus a regular balancing.
This same place was able to fix most of my shimmy issue -- the steering wheel went from feeling like Jello to feeling a little bit more normal, although a slight vibration comes and goes.
Anyone else have a chance to look into on-car balancing yet?
Where did you get the TSB regarding the cold start stumble? Do you have the number. I have a '02 GLS auto trans with the problem. It is only for the first 20 seconds or so after the engine starts, if I try to drive away. I have an appointment at the dealer to fix a bad radio. May as well get the stumble fixed. Thanks
Is the cold start stumble only with automatic trans? I have a 5-speed and occasionally have a sudden drop-off in power (comes back when I leave the clutch disengaged and let off the gas). I'd also like the TSB number -- should be on NTSB or NHTSA sites.
The cold start stumble TSB covers manual and automatic cars. It also gets rid of the step at 3800rpm when the cars stall at that RPM then continues up. Its called Warm Ambient Cold Start Stumble because on warm humid summer mornings the car would start fine. However the very first acceleration of the day would result in a big bog as if the engine were starving for fuel. If its happened to you you'll know what I mean. Its worth getting done and it does work. Its free in warranty and $45-90 dollars out of warranty (up to the dealer).
Page 1 of 12 Technical Service Bulletin Subject Group Number Date Model ENGINE ELECTRICAL 04-36-004 APRIL, 2004 2001-2003 ELANTRA 2001-2003 ELANTRA ECM REPROGRAMMING FOR WARM AMBIENT COLD START STUMBLE (WACSS) AND ENGINE HESITATION AT APPROXIMATELY 3800 RPM DESCRIPTION: Some 2001-2003 MY Elantra vehicles may experience one or both of the following symptoms: 1. Warm ambient cold start stumble (WACSS). When the weather is hot and humid, the engine may hesitate for a short time after an initial cold start (typically, the first start in the morning). 2. Engine hesitates at 3800 to 4000 rpm. This bulletin describes a procedure for updating the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct the above conditions by using the Hi-Scan Pro. VEHICLES AFFECTED: • Model: 2001-2003 ELANTRA vehicles • Affected vehicle production date range: -- 4 Door: Produced through June 14, 2003 -- 5 Door: Produced through June 10, 2003
Thanks for the info. regarding the cold start stumble. The description is exactly what my Elantra is doing. Your post reminded me that Hyundai has all of the TSBs on line. I went there to get all of the details. The fact that Hyundai publishes the TSBs for anyone to review is one more reason I'll buy another Hyundai
I have two pre-owned Elantras that I am looking at, and I am curious what happens with the warranty when one buys used. I'd appreciate any info you can give me.
If it's an Elantra with the 5 year/60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, that warranty transfers to the new owner if there is any time or mileage left. The 10 year/100,000 powertrain warranty does not transfer (that is, it reverts to 5 years/60,000 miles) unless there is an extended warranty specifies the powertrain warranty transfers to the new owner. Before '04, the powertrain warranty did transfer if the vehicle remains in the original owner's immediate family. That is no longer true for '04.
Some of the postings here refer to a stumble at about 3800 rpm. However, when I experience this brief problem, it is just when pulling away from being parked, so the rpms are lower. Would TSB still correct this? Any ideas are helpful.
The WACSS TSB is designed to take care of both conditions. It will cure your pulling away at cold stumble in the morning. It will also cure your slight hesitation at 3800 rpm.
1. Warm ambient cold start stumble (WACSS). When the weather is hot and humid, the engine may hesitate for a short time after an initial cold start (typically, the first start in the morning). 2. Engine hesitates at 3800 to 4000 rpm. This bulletin describes a procedure for updating the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct the above conditions by using the Hi-Scan Pro.
Thanks for the info about the waranty if I buy used. I would like to ask, though, what the bumper to bumper warranty covers? Any tips in buying a pre-owned Elantra would also be appreciated!
dubucmr, I would say the biggest thing to watch out for on a pre-owned elantra is: steering wheel shimmy. On the test drive make sure you can get on a highway and drive a a few miles at 60-80mph. If there is any, and I mean ANY, steering wheel shake or vibration in that speed range, do NOT buy that car. With or without waranty, that problem is one that you want nothing to do with. Some cars have it, some don't, some can be cured, some can't... it's a real pain in the butt problem that can't easily be fixed. Search the problems and solutions forum if you want the history.
If they really want your business, they'll swap the wheels and tires with a shimmy-free Elantra to see if that fixes the shimmy. (You could buy the shimmy-free Elantra, but it may not be the Elantra you would otherwise want -- wrong color, options, etc.)
I suppose if you buy a used Elantra that doesn't have a shimmy to begin with, then it probably won't get the shimmy. Then again, you never know what'll happen after your next tire rotation...
The bumper-to-bumper warranty covers most everything in the car except for "normal wear items" like wipers, filters, belts, hoses, brake shoes, and tires. You might ask your local Hyundai dealer to see a copy of the warranty.
Another thing to check on a used Hyundai (really any used car) is to make sure all facgtory recommended service has been performed (doesn't have to have been from a dealer though). If there's a mechanical problem and you can't prove that the recommended service has been performed, and Hyundai decides the lack of service could have caused the problem, the repair will not be covered under warranty.
Be sure to check the tires too. The OEM Michelins tend to wear fast; mine need replacement after only 28,000 miles.
No problem. Glad I could help. Dont forget to print out the TSB and bring it with you in case the dealer says "what TSB?". You can get it at Webtech.
When the service manager handed my copy back to me and said "thanks, but we have a way of getting TSBs" I went directly outside and placed it on my windshield under the wiper. It was on my front seat with dirty fingerprints when I picked up the car so they did use it.
When I called and mentioned that there is a TSB, the service guy said, "Not a recall, right?". Even though I said "T - S - B". Then he asked me to bring the number. And this was all after asking me what mileage I had on my car, as if this wouldn't be covered (it isn't likely a 2001 has passed the 100K mile mark). Monday at 3:15. I'll keep you posted. By the way, I cannot locate WebTech anywhere.
I'm thinking about buying an Elantra 4 door automatic, but am concerned about it's stability in winter driving. I live in Buffalo,NY, so I'm used to winter driving but I hate it. The roads are rarely well plowed; it's not unusual to drive through 6 inches of snow or more. I've driven many types of cars including Hondas and never had a problem until six years ago when I purchased a new Saturn. It turned out to be an absolute nightmare to drive in the snow: it went out of control on turns and felt like you were always driving on ice. I ended up trading it after 1 winter for a Ford van which has been fabulous in the snow but is now (unfortunately)dying of old age.
Has anyone had experience driving Elantras in snow and do you feel that it's a really stable car? (ie. holds the road well) I hate the thought of buying another car and then having to get rid of it in January because it can't cut it in the winter.
I want to trade in my 2002 Accent for a 2004 Elantra, probably the GT. I know right now there is a $1500 rebate and a $500 loyalty but I wonder if I should wait until Sept or Oct because there might be even more of a rebate? Also, someone told me that installing an independent CD rather than going with the factory might violate the warranty, is that true? thanks!
It is possible the rebates will go up as we near year-end. That happened last year, and at the end of the year there was a $2000 rebate plus $1000 owners loyalty. However, supply was VERY limited then--e.g. my local dealer had no GTs in stock, just a few GLSes. So it's a crap shoot waiting until later in the year. You might get a better deal, but not on the car you really want.
As for driving in snow, I've driven my '01 GLS (non-ABS) through four Minnesota winters. I think it is a very stable car. It weighs a few hundred pounds more than some compacts like the Civic and Corolla. Mine doesn't have ABS/traction, but the braking is smooth and progressive and I know how to drive in winter, so I haven't missed ABS. The traction control might come in handy in Buffalo, but ABS/traction can be hard to find on an Elantra. However, I drive in urban conditions. If I had to regularly drive in 6"+ of snow on highways, I would seriously consider an AWD vehicle like a Subaru Impreza. The Elantra-based Tuscon SUV will be out soon--that would be another choice for conditions like Buffalo.
I bought my 03 Elantra GlS on 9/13/03. The selections were tight as the 04's where on the lot and they had $1500 rebate. I got it for $12150 and have been happy with it 11K miles later.
My dealer performed the reprogramming needed per the TSB to correct my off the line stumble. So far, so good. Service rep that I had yesterday was very helpful and very nice as he usually is. And "my" black GT is still on the lot, tempting me...
I finally burned out a headlight. I have never, ever had a headlight (or any light) last so long. The other day I overheard a salesman say that headlights are covered under warranty, at least at my dealership.
I tried looking through past messages, but couldn't find an answer to this.
My 2003 GLS just passed 15,000 miles. I was wondering what type of service I should do besides the usual oil change. I've been wary of rotating the tires, with all the postings about shimmys (mine's been fine so far). But my Hyundai dealer wanted to me to $250 in preventative maintenence, saying things like that if there is no record of someone changing transmission fluid or the like, and a problem eventually happens, that Hyundai wouldn't cover it.
Tell the dealer to perform the services listed in your owner's manual's service schedule. 15k has a few more checks than the usual oil change service, but not that much more. Personally I rotate the tires on my cars, including my two Elantras, every 7500 miles or so (every other oil change for me) and have not had any shimmy problem. If you don't rotate the tires, you'll need to replace the front tires pretty often. Anyway, some services (like brake checks) require the wheels to be removed anyway, so you can't avoid it by not doing tire rotations. Be sure the tech uses a manual torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to spec--you can ask them about their procedure on that, see if they know the importance of doing that.
Betsy rolled 48K miles today, running as well as ever, still as comfortable and fun as ever. Dealer service writer installed my headlight bulb under warranty (headlight bulbs only, according to him, are included in 5/60 warranty). Naturally it blew out on the battery side (driver's side), but he has replaced enough that it went quickly.
I have been reading some of the posts and thought I would share my own experience. My family and I have purchased 12 Hyundais since 1989. We love the cars, and have never had big issues with the cars themselves. I am the last hold-out, my parents and brothers have since moved on.
When you are buying a car, I highly suggest spending some time in the service center waiting room and asking around. In this area, there are two Hyundai dealers. Both service centers are horrible. The manager of the one closest to us is rude and will fight you every step of the way on warranty work.
I bought a Hyundai Excel as a teen and then moved to a Scoupe. Shortly after my son's birth, the beige dash started turning purple, there were 10,000 miles on the car at that point. My husband and I took the car to Hyundai service where the manager told me that obviously I let my 4 month old play with crayons and that was the purple spotting. After a heated discussion, he stormed off got some cleaner and tried to clean the spots. He finally admitted they were more than melted crayons and told us to live with it. After going to the dealership's owner, only then was my dash replaced free of charge. They took two days to do the job after telling us it would take 4 hours.
However, I love the cars so we did eventually buy our third Hyundai - an Elantra. The Elantra has been very good, but still service is horrendous. Our speedometer went at 80,000. I had purchased an extended warranty, so the speedometer was covered. Again, we had to fight service who told us not to count on warranty coverage. I had to bring in the extended warranty and show them where it said speedometers were covered. They then told us it would take 4 weeks to order the part. A month later, we went back and were told they had ordered the wrong part and it would be another month's wait. Eventually, the part was replaced for free. But personally, I am sick of fighting every little thing with them. I know I am not alone either, while we were waiting for the first speedometer appointment, the owner of a Tiburon with 7500 miles on it came in because all of his lights failed - brake, directional, headlights... He said it was his fourth trip back to get the problem fixed correctly and he was turning to the state for help going with the lemon law.
I didn't mean to be so long-winded. But I do highly suggest asking people what their experience has been with the service department before buying. Until a new dealership opens up in Vermont that is getting good feedback, I will be passing up Hyundai cars.
Actually, the same can be said for every other manufacturer -- the deciding factor in a purchase or repurchase is dealer service. Unfortunately, you have had the bad luck of two terrible service departments. I agree with Saber86 that your experiences need(ed) to be brought to the attention of Hyundai USA. Your frustrations are shared by me or anyone who has had bad dealer experiences.
One thing you might look at in evaluating a dealer is how the manufacturer rates the dealership. The dealership I bought my two Elantras at is a Dodge dealership also, and is a Dodge "five-star" dealership. That's no guarantee of great service, but I have received generally good service there, with the only problem being that sometimes they have trouble replicating a problem, and sometimes they take a couple of tries to completely fix a problem. But they have been good about fixing problems under warranty, and even sometimes stretching the warranty a bit (e.g. fixing rattles even after the first 12 months). Dealers like this are smart and realize that if they treat you well, you will come back to buy again--as I did this spring when I bought my second Elantra.
Just passed the 30k mile mark on my '02 GLS. I bought it used in late Feb '04 with 22k, so I have now put 8k on it.
No problems found during the 30k checkup, and I have no other problems to report otherwise. This car has been perfect. Well, I'm not happy with the AM radio reception, but otherwise perfect. Rotated the tires and had no shimmy problems.
NOTE: during my last oil change at Hyundai of Manhattan NYC, they told me the front brake pads were more than 80% worn and should be replaced. I told them no thanks, just change the oil.
I brought it to my trusted mechanic yesterday for the 30k checkup, and he told me the pads still had more than 50%. The dealer was trying to scam me. I recommend going to a mechanic you can totally trust.
Invoice for this car (w/o bug deflector) is $14,372. Given the '05s are almost here, I think you might be able to do better than $14,882. How much is the bug deflector worth to you? I'd offer them $11,900 + tax, and if they don't accept it (even after you get up to walk out) settle on $12,000. Be sure to check local ads to see what the competition is offering and use that as a bargaining chip if possible.
No, not from work (unfortunately). But I need to get new tires on my '01 GLS before winter. The original Michelins have only 29k on them, but the tread is too low to get through another Minnesota winter.
I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations. I'd like a tire that has good all-weather traction, provides a smooth and quiet ride, good handling, wears better than the Michelins, and is relatively inexpensive. Right now the Kumho ECSTA HP4 716 is my #1 candidate. These are $40 on tirerack.com. Everything else looks to be at least twice that price. I will probably stay with the original size, but there's a chance I'll go with a +1 upgrade with alloys.
Comments
Niels
How much for the new GT? Jack
As for price, the sale sign was down between the seats, but I think $14,500 - $15K is a reasonable guess considering how the other GTs were equipped. The only thing I would request is a grey pinstripe at the upper end of the doors. My current black pinstripe makes a nice difference on Champagne.
Jack
I found that the only way to get the shimmy down to a tolerable level was go to a shop where they could balanced the wheels while they were on the car.
Gotta check this out...Jack
I brought it to the attention of my local dealer, Healey Bros Hyundai in Beacon, N.Y., who, in turn, after trying a few different things(including turning the rotors, and charging me $150) then turned it over to the regional Hyundai representative who took a ride with me and confirmed the shimmy. He then shook my hand and said we will come to some compensation.
I waited 2 months and told the dealer to forget it..It was better..The Hyundai rep. never got back to me.. That was about a year ago.
Hyundai better do something about their relationship with their customers, because they aren't going to have many very soon. Jack
Between the service I am getting and the product itself with value figured in for good measure...I cant complain and would buy another Hyundai in a second.
I mean my car is almost three years old. I walk into service,hand them a TSB for Cold Start Stumble. Service manager asked me if I have the problem. I say yes. End of the day I pick the car up with new software installed and car running flawless. I'm happy.
5port
01 GT
This same place was able to fix most of my shimmy issue -- the steering wheel went from feeling like Jello to feeling a little bit more normal, although a slight vibration comes and goes.
Anyone else have a chance to look into on-car balancing yet?
Thanks
Page 1 of 12
Technical Service
Bulletin
Subject
Group
Number
Date
Model
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
04-36-004
APRIL, 2004
2001-2003 ELANTRA
2001-2003 ELANTRA ECM REPROGRAMMING FOR
WARM AMBIENT COLD START STUMBLE (WACSS) AND
ENGINE HESITATION AT APPROXIMATELY 3800 RPM
DESCRIPTION:
Some 2001-2003 MY Elantra vehicles may experience one or both of the following
symptoms:
1. Warm ambient cold start stumble (WACSS). When the weather is hot and humid,
the engine may hesitate for a short time after an initial cold start (typically, the first
start in the morning).
2. Engine hesitates at 3800 to 4000 rpm.
This bulletin describes a procedure for updating the Engine Control Module (ECM) to
correct the above conditions by using the Hi-Scan Pro.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
• Model: 2001-2003 ELANTRA vehicles
• Affected vehicle production date range:
-- 4 Door: Produced through June 14, 2003
-- 5 Door: Produced through June 10, 2003
The fact that Hyundai publishes the TSBs for anyone to review is one more reason I'll buy another Hyundai
1. Warm ambient cold start stumble (WACSS). When the weather is hot and humid,
the engine may hesitate for a short time after an initial cold start (typically, the first
start in the morning).
2. Engine hesitates at 3800 to 4000 rpm.
This bulletin describes a procedure for updating the Engine Control Module (ECM) to
correct the above conditions by using the Hi-Scan Pro.
I suppose if you buy a used Elantra that doesn't have a shimmy to begin with, then it probably won't get the shimmy. Then again, you never know what'll happen after your next tire rotation...
Another thing to check on a used Hyundai (really any used car) is to make sure all facgtory recommended service has been performed (doesn't have to have been from a dealer though). If there's a mechanical problem and you can't prove that the recommended service has been performed, and Hyundai decides the lack of service could have caused the problem, the repair will not be covered under warranty.
Be sure to check the tires too. The OEM Michelins tend to wear fast; mine need replacement after only 28,000 miles.
When the service manager handed my copy back to me and said "thanks, but we have a way of getting TSBs" I went directly outside and placed it on my windshield under the wiper. It was on my front seat with dirty fingerprints when I picked up the car so they did use it.
Has anyone had experience driving Elantras in snow and do you feel that it's a really stable car? (ie. holds the road well) I hate the thought of buying another car and then having to get rid of it in January because it can't cut it in the winter.
As for driving in snow, I've driven my '01 GLS (non-ABS) through four Minnesota winters. I think it is a very stable car. It weighs a few hundred pounds more than some compacts like the Civic and Corolla. Mine doesn't have ABS/traction, but the braking is smooth and progressive and I know how to drive in winter, so I haven't missed ABS. The traction control might come in handy in Buffalo, but ABS/traction can be hard to find on an Elantra. However, I drive in urban conditions. If I had to regularly drive in 6"+ of snow on highways, I would seriously consider an AWD vehicle like a Subaru Impreza. The Elantra-based Tuscon SUV will be out soon--that would be another choice for conditions like Buffalo.
ElantraStan
My 2003 GLS just passed 15,000 miles. I was wondering what type of service I should do besides the usual oil change. I've been wary of rotating the tires, with all the postings about shimmys (mine's been fine so far). But my Hyundai dealer wanted to me to $250 in preventative maintenence, saying things like that if there is no record of someone changing transmission fluid or the like, and a problem eventually happens, that Hyundai wouldn't cover it.
Any advice?
Same old message from me: I still love this car!
When you are buying a car, I highly suggest spending some time in the service center waiting room and asking around. In this area, there are two Hyundai dealers. Both service centers are horrible. The manager of the one closest to us is rude and will fight you every step of the way on warranty work.
I bought a Hyundai Excel as a teen and then moved to a Scoupe. Shortly after my son's birth, the beige dash started turning purple, there were 10,000 miles on the car at that point. My husband and I took the car to Hyundai service where the manager told me that obviously I let my 4 month old play with crayons and that was the purple spotting. After a heated discussion, he stormed off got some cleaner and tried to clean the spots. He finally admitted they were more than melted crayons and told us to live with it. After going to the dealership's owner, only then was my dash replaced free of charge. They took two days to do the job after telling us it would take 4 hours.
However, I love the cars so we did eventually buy our third Hyundai - an Elantra. The Elantra has been very good, but still service is horrendous. Our speedometer went at 80,000. I had purchased an extended warranty, so the speedometer was covered. Again, we had to fight service who told us not to count on warranty coverage. I had to bring in the extended warranty and show them where it said speedometers were covered. They then told us it would take 4 weeks to order the part. A month later, we went back and were told they had ordered the wrong part and it would be another month's wait. Eventually, the part was replaced for free. But personally, I am sick of fighting every little thing with them. I know I am not alone either, while we were waiting for the first speedometer appointment, the owner of a Tiburon with 7500 miles on it came in because all of his lights failed - brake, directional, headlights... He said it was his fourth trip back to get the problem fixed correctly and he was turning to the state for help going with the lemon law.
I didn't mean to be so long-winded. But I do highly suggest asking people what their experience has been with the service department before buying. Until a new dealership opens up in Vermont that is getting good feedback, I will be passing up Hyundai cars.
No problems found during the 30k checkup, and I have no other problems to report otherwise. This car has been perfect. Well, I'm not happy with the AM radio reception, but otherwise perfect. Rotated the tires and had no shimmy problems.
NOTE: during my last oil change at Hyundai of Manhattan NYC, they told me the front brake pads were more than 80% worn and should be replaced. I told them no thanks, just change the oil.
I brought it to my trusted mechanic yesterday for the 30k checkup, and he told me the pads still had more than 50%. The dealer was trying to scam me. I recommend going to a mechanic you can totally trust.
Basic car with CD upgrade, auto, cruise, spoiler, mud guards, mats, cargo net and bug deflector.
$14882 -$1500 rebate -$1000 Loyalty= $12,382 +tax
Is this about right?
I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations. I'd like a tire that has good all-weather traction, provides a smooth and quiet ride, good handling, wears better than the Michelins, and is relatively inexpensive. Right now the Kumho ECSTA HP4 716 is my #1 candidate. These are $40 on tirerack.com. Everything else looks to be at least twice that price. I will probably stay with the original size, but there's a chance I'll go with a +1 upgrade with alloys.