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Comments
I asked the tech if they hand-torqued lug nuts and he said they did. I didn't notice any trace of shimmy, at least up to 70 mph, which is about as fast as I ever drive.
Those are the exact tires I put on the '02 5spd not long before I had to trade her in. Very smooth all the way up to well beyond the legal limit, and very good in the rain.
I had tried Fulda's on the Elantra, and although they handled very good, they were very rough and I could not get them balanced to my satisfaction. But the Kuhmo's were sweet!
And while the '05 GT with auto is really, really nice, I do miss the 5spd. But not the shoulder pain.
Jim
Fushigi, you mention 3 cars you’ve had with moonroofs—“88 Camry, 93 Mazda MX-3, 99 Galant.” How long did you have any of these cars?
Jlflemmons said that his contact at a dealer’s has seen “plugged drains from parking under trees.” A moonroof has drain holes? How did parking under a tree plug the drains?
John
Thanks for responding. but I was not "complaining"
about the Elantra have a timing belt vs time chain. All I was doing was asking a simple
question.
As a new Elantra owner, I would like to become
a regular member here, posting about the car, so
I hope we can have courtious, respectful discussions about our Elantras.
The brake pedal does indeed seem to be tighting up
with 300 miles. Its just a VERY different feel than my 2001 Sentra. The Sentra seemed to inspire
confidence while the Elantra, at this point, feels
real mushy and soggy. Hopefully this will improve
with the brake in.
Its very disappointing to know that the Elantras still using timing belts and need to be replaced at 60K at a cost of roughly $600.00. My 2001 Sentra has a internal timing chain that is maintenance free.
I am curious, though, whether you took the Elantra for a test drive before you bought it, and if you noticed the difference in brake behavior between the Sentra and Elantra. If you didn't, it's possible the Elantra you bought has defective brakes, and you should have the dealer check them, because although the Elantra's brakes may feel different than the Sentra's, they do not IMO feel "mushy and soggy."
I really intended my recommendation about enjoying your Elantra to be a friendly one. I've seen people second-guess themselves after buying a new car, and it doesn't serve any purpose except to degrage the new-car ownership experience, which is one to be enjoyed.
Good luck with the car. As you've probably noticed, there are an awful lot of Elantra zealots around here; I was a bit skeptical until I bought mine last April, and now I'm incredibly glad I didn't spend thousands more on some other lesser car, or the same amount ($11,622; $13k after TTL and 100k bumper-to-bumper extension) on like an Echo or something. Instead I got leather and a Kenwood. The Elantra will surprise you, I bet!
As to the first oil change, I let mine go until 4500 miles. I should've done it at 1500 or 2000, I think, but 4000 of those miles were spent at or above 75mph, so at least they were easy. Been using Castrol GTX 10W-30 every 4000 since. I recommend snagging a Fumoto oil drain valve (google it) if you do the maintenance yourself - they're slick little gizmos.
My last car, a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave. I bought used with 100K on the clock also had a factory roof and it still worked perfectly when I sold it at 178K. I think sunroofs have gotten a bad rap from those cheap pop-out roofs the domestic makers were installing during the 80's as well as those leak-prone Ziebart units.
Personally, I have no concern about factory installed power roofs. But I wouldn't touch an aftermarket (dealer installed) roof with a ten foot pole. First, they're more expensive. Second, the workmanship and quality are not there. But what do you expect when someone is taking a Milwaukee Sawzall to your roof and splicing into your car's wiring?
I've looked at many a used car with aftermarket roofs (usually ASC units) and have always steered clear. One particularly good (bad?) example I saw was a 1996 Chrysler LHS where the headliner was sagging and being held up with what appeared to be carpet staples. The car had less than 40K on it and was only 3 years old at the time.
So, if you're looking for a car with a sunroof and the dealer doesn't have it on the lot, don't let him talk you into having one "installed" on a car in their inventory. They will swear up and down that "it's the same as from the factory", but that's what makes them salespeople. They are full of it.
Make them do a dealer swap or live without the roof. If you don't, you're gonna regret it.
When the Institute tested the Elantra in 2001, it earned a poor rating mainly because its airbag inflated late, resulting in high forces on the dummy's head. Hyundai redesigned the frontal airbags for the 2004 Elantra and asked the Institute to test the car again.
"When we tested the 2004 model the airbags worked fine, and at first it looked like a good performer," Lund says. "But there was a major problem. After the crash there was fluid leaking from the gas tank."
Hyundai identified a fuel hose clamp that was improperly positioned, which led to the puncturing of the tank during the crash. (Note: A less volatile fluid than gasoline is added to fuel systems in crash tests to allow identification of leaks without the risk of fire.) Hyundai recalled the affected models to reposition the hose clamp and requested the Institute to test an Elantra with the fix. No fluid leaked in this re-test, but the driver airbag failed to deploy.
Hyundai engineers will modify the software that determines whether and when to fire the airbags in 2005 models built after December 2004. The company also will recall cars manufactured earlier to fix this problem.
When the Institute tested a third Elantra with the hose clamp and airbag problems fixed, the car performed well.
"The structure was good and injury measures for the neck and chest were low," Lund says. "But there was the possibility of a head injury and a right leg injury, so the Elantra isn't good enough to be a 'best pick.'"
http://www.iihs.org/news_releases/2004/pr121904.htm
What I interesting is why Kia spectra scored so poorly when new spectra and elantra are built on the same platform??
At least now this stigma of the "poor" offset crash test score is off the Elantra, so more people will feel safe buying it and the folks at Consumer Reports can hang their "Recommended" sign on it.
I too have noticed a difference in the brake pedal compared to my other vehicles. After sitting at a stop for a few seconds the pedal does sink a little. This has not concerned me because the brakes work great, and it does not seem to be an issue. Just a different feel than I am used too.
I had my first oil change at the dealership at 3,000 miles and again at 7,500 and 12,000.
I do not think the brand or type of oil is as important as frequent changing. I would never go over 5,000 miles before getting an oil change.
As far as your mechanic, get a new one. He obviously does not keep up to date with the times. Yes back in the 80's Hyundai was disposable. But this company has really turned itself around over the past 10 years and delivers on a quality product. Maybe he is repairing some old Excels?
You obviously did some research and didn't take his word for it when buying your new car.
Have fun in the new ride and use that saved cash to go on a trip:)
drive on the Elantra and I commented to the sales
kid about the brakes. He had a mechanic look at
it and they said the brakes are normal. So I guess
its just something I will adjust to.
Im going back to the dealer this week to have my
rear spoiler installed and maybe I will have them
due a more detailed check of the brake pedal feel.
Drago....I LOVE the color Moonlight Blue, especially at night when the light hits it.
How is your paint holding up after 12,000 miles?
Does he seem to scratch, or chip easily?
I intend to go back to the dealer at 3000 miles
for my first oil change, than at around 6000, I
will switch to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-30 and do
6000 miles changes for the life of the car, using Hyundai filters.
Also, does anyone here know what exact engine
the Elantra has..im looking at the manual trying
to figure out if we change spark plugs at 60K or
105K??
Just for general info - the only problem we have encountered with the car was a faulty Throttle Position Sensor (this went bad around 45K). Even though I was able to diagnose the problem myself using Hyundai's Webtech site, it took 6 trips to 2 different dealers for someone to eventually listen to me and for them to change it. I was 1 step away from writing to Hyundai's corporate office. Her car also has a sunroof, and we have had no problems with the sunroof (we got the car in November of 2001).
A timing belt replacement should only cost about $300 according to a very reliable source.
Can you please tell me what dealer or independent
shop charges 15 bucks??
If you are saying that is the price for changing
yourself, I really dont do work like that. Im
not mechanically inclined.
Niels
Regarding oil...I am a believer that there is too much hype on how good one oil is compared to another. As long as you get a major brand with the proper grade for your temp and change your oil frequently your car will be happy.
As for the airbags, since the car I’ll be buying has been on the dealer’s lot for a couple of months, it sounds like it will be subject to recall. That’s the sort of thing that requires service from a Hyundai dealer, I assume, which for me will mean a 175 or 200 mile drive one way.
I hope this doesn’t happen too often.
John
I’m all set to catch a 7 AM bus to Reno on Tuesday, Dec. 21. If I want to talk to them about the air bag issue before I go to Reno and take delivery, I’d have to call them tomorrow and then, depending on what they say, make the trip on Thursday.
Do you know if reprogramming the airbag is something they might be able to do on short order, when I arrive?
John
John
Elantra GLS for 10 days, here are some thoughts
I have about this vehicle...
Dislikes-
1.At this point, very unimpressive gas mileage.
Actually, quite disappointing. My fisrt full
tank avereged ONLY 21 MPG! WOW! pretty bad. And
this is driving VERY conservatively, with soft
and smooth braking and accelerating in the burbs
of central new jersey.
I was averaging 35MPG in my 2001 Sentra!
So, Is it really true that gas mileage will improve after the break-in peroid? Or is this
the best I can expect?
2. VERY skinny, whimpy steering wheel. It reminds
me of steering wheels in the cheap low end
economy cars like Saturns, etc.
And thats it for the dislikes....
What I like-
1. I love the look of the car, its very smooth
and european like. Its looks more expensive
than it is. I especially like the rear and
the tail lights.
2. VERY smooth, quiet comfortable ride quality.
I love the smooth way in which the car
accelerates and the smoothness of the auto-
matic transmission..quite impressive for a
cheap ecomony car!
3. So far, not a single squeak, rattle or any
type of strange noise or defect at all. I
dont see where I will need to take this car
back to the dealer for any adjustments, as
one typically needs to do with a new car.
So, overall, I would have to say I like this car.
Is it a significant improvement over my 2001 Sentra? No. But it is an improvement. Particularly
in ride comfort and quietness in the cabin.
What is everyone else here getting for gas mileage with their
2004-2005 Automatic transmissions? Can anyone offer me any suggestions
on ways to improve gas mileage?
Willing replacing the air filter with a K&N filter and a switch over
to Mobil One synthetic improve MPG??
Actually, quite disappointing. My fisrt full
tank avereged ONLY 21 MPG! WOW! pretty bad. And
this is driving VERY conservatively, with soft
and smooth braking and accelerating in the burbs
of central new jersey.
I was averaging 35MPG in my 2001 Sentra!"
I have found the Elantra's gas mileage to be just like any other car I've ever driven . . . route/style dependent. 21 mpg seems right for the Elanta stop and go driving. I live in a very crowded part of the country (Virginia suburbs of Washington, DC) and I go through 10 stoplights and a congested and backed up stop-sign to get to a train station just 5 miles from my home. I spend almost half of my time idling and not moving and I usually get 21-22 mpg when I drive that route. We also get 21-22 mpg if we're driving to stores a lot on the weekend and going in and out of parking lots. My wife's more high-speed, less interrupted commute gets about 27 mpg for the Elantra . . . and when we take the Elantra on highway trips we get about 33-34 mpg.
I'm sorry for not believing you if you speak the truth, but I really don't see how you can possibly be making a fair comparison between the Elantra and your former Sentra. The 2005 1.8 automatic Sentra is rated 28 city and 34 highway. I suspect you are exaggerating your former car's mpg to accentuate how bad the Elantra's is. I don't doubt at all a Sentra can regularly get 35 mpg, but not on the route on which an Elantra gets 21. I agree 21 mpg is not good, but I suspect is had to do more with stoplights, stop-signs and parking lots than the Elantra itself . . .
Could you have meant 25 mpg?
On my automatic '04 GT, I get about 25 in town and 38 on the highway, driving conservatively and staying at the speed limit. However, my wife got low 20s in warm weather and now in the cold is getting about 18. But that's very short trips, lots of idling, and stop-and-go traffic. Also she has a heavy foot.
As for the steering wheel, a stitch-on leather cover will beef it up and provide a more comfortable grip.
Now, the '02 w/5spd turned an impressive 33.5 on the highway averaging 80+ mph. And with 42K on the odo was still tight, smooth, and squeak/rattle free.
I kinda thought the ride was just a bit stiff the
first day. The dealer had overinflated them to
39PSI. I took it down to the recommended 30PSI
and the ride was smoother.
But if you overinflate to 35PSI, wont that
result in uneven and faster tire wear??
Isnt 30PSI the optimal pressure for the Elantra
and those tires??
with 2 lights and no traffic. I am not exaggerating.
I have no idea how to get tires to last half as long as they are supposed to, so I will leave the wear questions alone.
I saw your earlier message about the steering wheel and understand how you feel. Items such as the "feel" of a steering wheel or shift knob are very subjective as each has a personal preference. I didn't like the way the steering wheel felt on an '84 Fiero I owned. Loved everything else about the car except the wheel. So I bought an Italian leather lace on steering wheel cover, took my time to lace it on correctly, and loved the feel of the wheel from that day forward.
Jim
This cracked me up. Makes me wonder what other undesirable outcomes you can’t help us achieve.
Are all leather steering wheel covers created equal? Or are there characteristics, types, brands, or sources to look for?
Jim
Thats a very interesting comment, because understeer is a lot more manageable for most drivers than is oversteer.
One of the reservations with the Elantra GLS that both CR and Car and Driver have had in the past centered around higher speed stability/handling.
~alpha
PS- When is the Elantra redesign scheduled to debut? In relation to the Accent redesign?
As for C/D's opinion of the Elantra GLS... they hated it so much that they ranked it second in their comparo of small cars in November 2002, one point behind the Protege. :-)
I would have to say the GT is more stable in the wind, but I cannot comment as to how much of that is related to the stiffer suspension and how much is the hatchback vs sedan. The GT is a little rougher on irregular pavement, but not enough to be objectionable.
Jim
I installed the 19.2mm Tiburon V6 swaybar on my Elantra one month ago, replacing the stock 16mm (I believe) Elantra GT swaybar. NOTABLE improvement in handling - slow/medium speed tight turns, quick highway lane changes, offramps... they're all an awful lot more fun now! The car corners much flatter, and snaps much more quickly out of what little body roll there is. Notes: a breaker bar may be needed for the 14mm endlink bolts, and you would do well to upgrade endlinks from stock polyurethane to the Tiburon's metal parts in the unlikely event of excessive load at stressful maneuvering.