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Comments
They just made it sound like from the original post that the interest rate was dependant upon the amount financed - which was why they needed to purchase the warranty to begin with.
I'm not especially worried about losing the loan; I know I'm under the knife (as it were) for the original loan amount.
I'll consider cancelling, thanks. Do I contact Hyundai directly about the warranty? I do kinda like the idea of the full 100k bumper-to-bumper warranty, but I'll admit, I don't really need it at this very moment.
Will it be more expensive to buy as I get closer to the current one running out - like life insurance?
Not to sound cynical or anything, but to me that sounds like a ploy to get you to buy the extended warranty. Why would getting a better interest rate or even qualify for a loan on a new car be conditional on getting the warranty?
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I'm still not entirely convinced it's a bad idea. A bit overpriced, but not a bad idea at all. I will not, however, be buying another car from this dealership, nor recommending them to others (and if you're in the San Jose area, contact me privately, and I'll tell you who they are...). And I did mention this in my survey from Hyundai, and gave my name and address.
I really hope they get back in touch with me...
You had said earlier that the warranty was $1500. Could you not have just reduced your down payment by $1500, in order to have still financed the same amount?
If that was the case they should have given you the option of putting less down on the car which is the wiser thing to do. Or even better reduce the term of the loan.
I'm still not entirely convinced it's a bad idea. A bit overpriced, but not a bad idea at all.
That all depends on the individual and the circumstances. Just to let you know my 2000 Elantra wagon made it past what any warranty would have covered before anything went wrong.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I would just try to go to the dealer and get it replaced (since the first time it was replaced, the car was under warranty), but last time, it took 6 trips for them to be able to replicate the problem, and that dealer has now been sold bulldozed anyways to make ways for a shopping center. This means I would have to start from scratch with another Hyundai dealer (that I have never been to) that is a long ways away from where I live. It appears to be about a $50 part, so if I can replace it myself for $50, it is worth it to me.
Jim
From searching on line, it appears I can order an OEM from Hyundai (not sure about price), or one made by Wells that can be ordered through AutoZone for $51.99.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
With regard to 5th gear at low speeds, you may find your mileage actually worsens running in 5th. In fourth, the engine can take advantage of the better (higher) ratio of 4th to allow speed maintenance and light acceleration with less throttle input. Just because the engine is running slightly faster doesn't mean you are burning more fuel.
An engine needs to make x amount of power to move your car y speed. If the engine is turning at a speed below it's optimum torque band, it will require more fuel to develop the required power. Every engine has a "sweet spot" where it develops its best efficiency. Not necessarily it's maximum power, but its maximum power to fuel consumption.
That's where you want the engine to run most of the time to attain the best fuel economy.
Jim
Correction: Virtually ALL gas stations are now using ethanol in their gas. This is because use of MTBE is being phased out. MTBE is great for emissions, but if raw MTBE is dumped it is terrible for water supplies. The next best thing is ethanol.
If the engine get too much it will cease and then would not be covered under warranty.
Here is what your owners manual has to say about that:
"Gasohol (a mixture of 90% unleaded gasoline and 10% ethanol or grain alcohol) may be used in your Hyundai. However, if your engine develops driveability problems, the use of 100% unleaded gasoline is recommended. Fuels with unspecified quantities of alcohol, or alcohols other than ethanol, should not be used."
Most pumps now say something like "May contain up to 10% Ethanol". As long as you're not using more than 10%, you are fully in compliance with your warranty.
In some areas, E85 is available. This is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. A vehicle has to be specially designed (and usually designated as FFV or Flex-Fuel Vehicle) to use E85. No Elantras are FFVs.
They then said I should have a motor oil additive and a fuel system cleaner put in at every oil change. does that sound right or is the just a rip-off.
Ripoff. Furthermore, some fuel system cleaners can actually damage the sensors in your vehicle and *that* can void your warranty. The detergent in gasolines today is all the fuel system cleaning most cars need.
I allowed them to do it but I do not know about it. Please advise.The dealer is in NC and We usually try to go the one we bought if from in Pa- like them better but for a oil change we wanted to go local.
Peronally, I wouldn't go back to that dealer. They are padding their pockets at your expense with unnecessary services. Next time you have a dealer try to talk you into something and you're not sure about it, ask the service writer to show you where in your owners manual it says the service is recommended/required. If they cannot or will not do this, do NOT allow them to do it to your car. They're just ripping you off.
Personally, I think dealers like that should be reported to Hyundai customer service.
I wish all could have the dealer experience I have here with Classic Hyundai of Round Rock. The only time they ever came up with anything on an oil change beyond the expected was an air filter with 20K miles on it, and really dirty. The mechanic (whom I have known for a while) even gave me a hard time about it. "Jim, you know better than this. Do you want me to put in a new air filter, or do you want to go over there to parts and get it yourself?"
Make sure you never use E85 fuel though; it WILL kill your car. Excessive alcohol will eat seals away unless they are made of different materials than are normally used.
And Round Rock is in Texas (near Austin).
Home to world headquarters of Dell Computer, and more importantly, the Round Rock Express. AAA minor league team to the Houston Astros, owned by Nolan and Reid Ryan.
Basically, she backed her Jeep Grand Cherokee right into the front of my car. It resulted in my hood being bent up to the point that it can't be opened, and the grill and front bumper are dented in several inches. Also, my beloved lock-chirp isn't working. I won't know if there is any internal damage until tomorrow afternoon.
But I'm wondering about whether or not the value of the car will go down now. I've heard both sides of the argument from insurance companies, but I'd like to get a buyer's point-of-view. When I eventually look at reselling the car, will this collision make that much of a difference? Thanks for any advice.
Now a minor one like a dented fender may not matter but something more serious will. From what you say I would expect to take a hit on resale.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Don't be to sure on that. If there was an accident report it could show up, also the dealer could still report it so the question is who at the dealership did you hear that from? The service manager or a salesman?
Also remember that a good mechanic can usually tell is something has been in an accident with no problem (I have seen them make that determination from simply looking at it).
One more thing, did your SIL hit you squarely head on or did she hit you on an angle. If she hit you on an angle make sure someone follows behind you after you pick up the car to make sure the body is aligned right. Every so often I will get behind a new car whose body is out of alignment and I know that they got hit while still new.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
She hit the car squarely head-on, but it sounds like that's good news. But I'll make to disclose it to any potential buyer if they ask. Thanks again for your advice.
And the reason the "chirp" isn't working is because your hood is crinkled. If the hood switch is not pressed, the alarm cannot be armed. Once the new hood is on, it should work fine.
When did the alarm system in the Elantra start "chirping" (what year did they add that feature)?
When we arm/disarm the one on our '02, the only noise you hear is that of the locks locking and unlocking - plus the parking lights flash.
I actually didn't realize that our '02 Elantra had rear cup holders until a month ago (that slide out from the lower edge of the rear seat).
Back in December, my manifold was replaced by the dealer under the recall as it was cracked.
Last week a dash light came on, something to do with the exhaust. I took my car to the dealer and the dealer tells me that it's my manifold and the part is $1000. I tell him it was replaced in Dec., he comes back later with the response that actually the flex pipe is leaking and it's connected to the manifold so that's why the whole thing has to be replaced. But now they're going to try to weld a piece of flex pipe on so they don't have to replace the whole thing.
Well, now, if the flex pipe and manifold are one piece and the manifold was replaced in Dec., how is it that the flex pipe is leaking already? And shouldn't they cover it?
Does anyone know if the flex pipe and manifold are one piece or how I would find this out?
I think they're taking advantage of me because I'm a woman. They're the only Hyundai dealer around and they've pulled crap like this before.
Any information, etc. is much appreciated.
Is it worth $5,700? Thats up to you but I would try to negotiate that down.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D