Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

194959799100109

Comments

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Once the loan is in place, it should not be affected by cancelling the warranty. Just like if someone gets HMA financing to get a financing rebate, then they pay off the loan in a couple of weeks, they still keep the rebate.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I understand that.

    They just made it sound like from the original post that the interest rate was dependant upon the amount financed - which was why they needed to purchase the warranty to begin with.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    The interest rate *was* dependant on the warranty - but now that the loan is in place, what's done is done.

    I'm not especially worried about losing the loan; I know I'm under the knife (as it were) for the original loan amount.

    I'll consider cancelling, thanks. Do I contact Hyundai directly about the warranty? I do kinda like the idea of the full 100k bumper-to-bumper warranty, but I'll admit, I don't really need it at this very moment.

    Will it be more expensive to buy as I get closer to the current one running out - like life insurance?
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    The interest rate *was* dependant on the warranty

    Not to sound cynical or anything, but to me that sounds like a ploy to get you to buy the extended warranty. Why would getting a better interest rate or even qualify for a loan on a new car be conditional on getting the warranty?

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    They claimed there was a minimum loan amount, and I was putting a lot of money down. Given how greatful I was at the savings over what I was getting from my online loan offer (4% difference), and that I'd been rejected by a number of banks and CUs already, I went with it.

    I'm still not entirely convinced it's a bad idea. A bit overpriced, but not a bad idea at all. I will not, however, be buying another car from this dealership, nor recommending them to others (and if you're in the San Jose area, contact me privately, and I'll tell you who they are...). And I did mention this in my survey from Hyundai, and gave my name and address.

    I really hope they get back in touch with me...
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    "They claimed there was a minimum loan amount, and I was putting a lot of money down."

    You had said earlier that the warranty was $1500. Could you not have just reduced your down payment by $1500, in order to have still financed the same amount?
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    They claimed there was a minimum loan amount, and I was putting a lot of money down.

    If that was the case they should have given you the option of putting less down on the car which is the wiser thing to do. Or even better reduce the term of the loan.

    I'm still not entirely convinced it's a bad idea. A bit overpriced, but not a bad idea at all.

    That all depends on the individual and the circumstances. Just to let you know my 2000 Elantra wagon made it past what any warranty would have covered before anything went wrong.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There is a time limit for getting the Hyundai extended warranty. It used to be (in '05 the last time I checked on it) one year or 12,000 miles from original purchase date, whichever came first. But there are other extended warranties available that can be purchased several years into your ownership. I just got a 2002 MPV with a five-year bumper-to-bumper extended warranty, for example.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Anyone have any experience with replacing the TPS? Mine is acting up again (it was replaced 30K miles ago). I found an aftermarket one at my autoparts store that is made by a different company than the OEM one, - so I am hoping it will be better. It appears to be a simple swap out from the looks of it, but I'm not sure if there are any computer type things that need to be done along with swapping it out. I looked on webtech, but didn't see anything very specific.

    I would just try to go to the dealer and get it replaced (since the first time it was replaced, the car was under warranty), but last time, it took 6 trips for them to be able to replicate the problem, and that dealer has now been sold bulldozed anyways to make ways for a shopping center. This means I would have to start from scratch with another Hyundai dealer (that I have never been to) that is a long ways away from where I live. It appears to be about a $50 part, so if I can replace it myself for $50, it is worth it to me.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Disconnect the battery, carefully unplug the harness from the TPS, make the swap and put all back together. Hook up the battery and drive normally while the computer "learns" the new TPS. A direct replacement will be -almost- the same, but there can be small variations from manufacturer to manufacturer.

    Jim
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Thanks for the reply - so no adjustments or anything other than a straight swap out? Looks like there is the harness, and a couple of studs that attach it to the throttle body.

    From searching on line, it appears I can order an OEM from Hyundai (not sure about price), or one made by Wells that can be ordered through AutoZone for $51.99.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check your local autoparts houses and see if Standard makes a replacement. Or even Delco makes one. What was the price from the dealer parts department?
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Pardon the dumb question, but would changing out the TPS also allow you to change the shift points in the transmission? I have a Sonata, and would like mine to shift into 5th at the 30-35mph point rather than the 40 where it now shifts. The traffic in my area is generally just under the 40 mark, and I think it would help my mileage. Thanks, van
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    I would think that the 30-35 MPH range might be a little slow for it to be in 5th. Anyway couldn't you just put the transmission in manual mode and shift up yourself?

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Thanks for the comeback, but the car still will not shift into the 5th gear until speed reaches 40mph. I have tried about evrything I can think of.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    I would normally think the same as you, snake, and would never even have thought about it, but it seems that the traffic in my area is generally is in the just below 40mph range. In as much as we are tallking city traffic, and not trying to gain any speed or anything else other than allowing the engine to go a little slower, I just thought it would be OK.. The downshifting from 5th to 4th does not change until in the low 30 area. I have not been able to exactly catch the point yet. I obviously have not been trying to hard. Just a thought though. Appreciate any replies. van
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    TPS should not affect shiftpoints if it is working correctly. It is only one of the inputs that the system uses to determine downshift/upshift.

    With regard to 5th gear at low speeds, you may find your mileage actually worsens running in 5th. In fourth, the engine can take advantage of the better (higher) ratio of 4th to allow speed maintenance and light acceleration with less throttle input. Just because the engine is running slightly faster doesn't mean you are burning more fuel.

    An engine needs to make x amount of power to move your car y speed. If the engine is turning at a speed below it's optimum torque band, it will require more fuel to develop the required power. Every engine has a "sweet spot" where it develops its best efficiency. Not necessarily it's maximum power, but its maximum power to fuel consumption.

    That's where you want the engine to run most of the time to attain the best fuel economy.

    Jim
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Gottcha on that. Appreciate those comments, had not thought about it that way. I was thinking the wrong way. What you say makes good sense. It is nice to get inputs from others. Thanks to all, van :)
  • newhartfordnewhartford Member Posts: 49
    I have a 2003 Elantra 5M with 38.5K miles. At 36 months the only problem has been poor heat from the floor vents (this way from day 1). It has been a great little car.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    I bought my car to a nearby Hyundai dealer for a oil change. This is my 2nd time there. The service advisor told me that alot of gas stations are using ethanol in their gas. If the engine get too much it will cease and then would not be covered under warranty. They then said I should have a motor oil additive and a fuel system cleaner put in at every oil change. does that sound right or is the just a rip-off. I allowed them to do it but I do not know about it. Please advise.The dealer is in NC and We usually try to go the one we bought if from in Pa- like them better but for a oil change we wanted to go local.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    The service advisor told me that alot of gas stations are using ethanol in their gas.

    Correction: Virtually ALL gas stations are now using ethanol in their gas. This is because use of MTBE is being phased out. MTBE is great for emissions, but if raw MTBE is dumped it is terrible for water supplies. The next best thing is ethanol.

    If the engine get too much it will cease and then would not be covered under warranty.

    Here is what your owners manual has to say about that:

    "Gasohol (a mixture of 90% unleaded gasoline and 10% ethanol or grain alcohol) may be used in your Hyundai. However, if your engine develops driveability problems, the use of 100% unleaded gasoline is recommended. Fuels with unspecified quantities of alcohol, or alcohols other than ethanol, should not be used."

    Most pumps now say something like "May contain up to 10% Ethanol". As long as you're not using more than 10%, you are fully in compliance with your warranty.

    In some areas, E85 is available. This is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. A vehicle has to be specially designed (and usually designated as FFV or Flex-Fuel Vehicle) to use E85. No Elantras are FFVs.

    They then said I should have a motor oil additive and a fuel system cleaner put in at every oil change. does that sound right or is the just a rip-off.

    Ripoff. Furthermore, some fuel system cleaners can actually damage the sensors in your vehicle and *that* can void your warranty. The detergent in gasolines today is all the fuel system cleaning most cars need.

    I allowed them to do it but I do not know about it. Please advise.The dealer is in NC and We usually try to go the one we bought if from in Pa- like them better but for a oil change we wanted to go local.

    Peronally, I wouldn't go back to that dealer. They are padding their pockets at your expense with unnecessary services. Next time you have a dealer try to talk you into something and you're not sure about it, ask the service writer to show you where in your owners manual it says the service is recommended/required. If they cannot or will not do this, do NOT allow them to do it to your car. They're just ripping you off.

    Personally, I think dealers like that should be reported to Hyundai customer service.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Dead on, Paul.

    I wish all could have the dealer experience I have here with Classic Hyundai of Round Rock. The only time they ever came up with anything on an oil change beyond the expected was an air filter with 20K miles on it, and really dirty. The mechanic (whom I have known for a while) even gave me a hard time about it. "Jim, you know better than this. Do you want me to put in a new air filter, or do you want to go over there to parts and get it yourself?"
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    thanks for your reply. None of the gas stations I go to mention anything about using ethanol. Are they supposed to or the ones I use do not have it.I plan to call the service manager from the Pa dealer and ask his opinion. I have been dealing with them for over 6 years now and they are excellant. The problem is they are over 500 miles away now. I also plan to be in contact with hyundai customer service. This dealer tried to get me to do additional service that I already had done when I was in PA. They told me dealers do not exchange service information-only warranty work and recalls.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    where is round rock?
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If your state has stopped using MTBE and is now using ethanol, there will be non-descript stickers about the size of a 3x5 card on the pumps stating "May contain up to 10% ethanol" or something like that. This fuel, sometimes called E10 (for 10% ethanol) is acceptable.

    Make sure you never use E85 fuel though; it WILL kill your car. Excessive alcohol will eat seals away unless they are made of different materials than are normally used.

    And Round Rock is in Texas (near Austin).
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    I talked with the service manager at the Pa dealer and he told me they DO NOT use additive and really do not recommend them. Hyundai was just starting to send them information about the use of ethanol and if he gets additional information he will let me know. I do not think the gas station near us stopped using MTBE. the PA s.m told me the stations around allentown are still using it. In Philadelphia the stations are using ethanol.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Central Texas, about 10 miles north of Austin on I35.

    Home to world headquarters of Dell Computer, and more importantly, the Round Rock Express. AAA minor league team to the Houston Astros, owned by Nolan and Reid Ryan.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    i think the dealer is a little to far for me to try but if I should ever get to that area I will know where to go. THANK YOU. If you want to get ripped-off go to stevenson hyundai in Jacksonville NC
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    I would like to call hyundai customer service. I know I can get their phone # from the owners manual. Unfortunately my husband has the car and when he gets home I forget to get it. Please could someone give it to me. I would appreciate it.
  • kathyw105kathyw105 Member Posts: 5
    I just recently purchased a 2006 Hyundai Elantra GLS. My sister-in-law just backed into the front of it yesterday evening, and I'm getting it repaired through my original dealership to avoid any problems with the warranty. Also, her insurance will be covering everything anyway.

    Basically, she backed her Jeep Grand Cherokee right into the front of my car. It resulted in my hood being bent up to the point that it can't be opened, and the grill and front bumper are dented in several inches. Also, my beloved lock-chirp isn't working. I won't know if there is any internal damage until tomorrow afternoon.

    But I'm wondering about whether or not the value of the car will go down now. I've heard both sides of the argument from insurance companies, but I'd like to get a buyer's point-of-view. When I eventually look at reselling the car, will this collision make that much of a difference? Thanks for any advice.
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    Short answer is yes it will hurt resale value. Any type of accident could cause issues down the line. Any potential car buyer would worry that there will be issues resulting from the accident.

    Now a minor one like a dented fender may not matter but something more serious will. From what you say I would expect to take a hit on resale.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • kathyw105kathyw105 Member Posts: 5
    First off, thanks for the quick reply. That's too bad to hear, but it's what I thought. My dealer said that it would, but he also said that it wouldn't be on my carfax report, since it's not on my insurance. So I guess it depends on what I disclose. I'm definitely not the kind of person who would sell something like that to someone without knowing all of the facts, but I want to make sure I know all of my options. What a pain...
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    My dealer said that it would, but he also said that it wouldn't be on my carfax report, since it's not on my insurance.

    Don't be to sure on that. If there was an accident report it could show up, also the dealer could still report it so the question is who at the dealership did you hear that from? The service manager or a salesman?

    Also remember that a good mechanic can usually tell is something has been in an accident with no problem (I have seen them make that determination from simply looking at it).

    One more thing, did your SIL hit you squarely head on or did she hit you on an angle. If she hit you on an angle make sure someone follows behind you after you pick up the car to make sure the body is aligned right. Every so often I will get behind a new car whose body is out of alignment and I know that they got hit while still new.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • kathyw105kathyw105 Member Posts: 5
    It was the salesman that said that. There wasn't a police report issued, as it was on private property (her driveway).

    She hit the car squarely head-on, but it sounds like that's good news. But I'll make to disclose it to any potential buyer if they ask. Thanks again for your advice.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    On a new car all new parts will be used. One thing you could do if you wanted would be to take good photographs of the damage from all angles. When the repair is completed, keep all the receipts with the photos. Then, if in the future the damage extent is questioned, you can honestly say what happened, show the damage that was done, and the repairs. Even though that doesn't make the event go away, it does show a prospective buyer exactly what happened and how it was repaired. Most buyers would look at that as total honesty and believe anything else you tell them, such as how the car has been maintained.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    The CarFax information comes from insurance companies as well as police records. If your SIL's insurance is repairing it, they may report to CarFax. However, I wouldn't sweat it. In case you don't know, Elantras don't have the best resale value anyway. However, if they do a quality repair job, it shouldn't hurt the value too much more.

    And the reason the "chirp" isn't working is because your hood is crinkled. If the hood switch is not pressed, the alarm cannot be armed. Once the new hood is on, it should work fine.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Stupid Question...

    When did the alarm system in the Elantra start "chirping" (what year did they add that feature)?

    When we arm/disarm the one on our '02, the only noise you hear is that of the locks locking and unlocking - plus the parking lights flash.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If you hit the button to set it twice in a row, it chirps. Hitting it once and the lights flash and thats all.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    '04 I think, that is when the remote changed. Before that, you could press the button as many times as you want and there was no chirp.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Thanks -

    I actually didn't realize that our '02 Elantra had rear cup holders until a month ago (that slide out from the lower edge of the rear seat).
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Only on the sedan. The '05 GT hatchback doesn't have them, presumably because the seat bottoms flip up for increased cargo space.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Yeah, my early '01 GLS didn't have the rear cupholders. :( I think they came in later during the '01 model year (sedan only as noted).
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    My boss had his last car for 8 years, and didn't realize it had a tilt wheel until 6 years into it. I loaned him my truck one day, and drove his car. It wasn't until I returned his car, and he noticed the steering wheel was in a different position that he realized there was a hidden lever under the steering wheel to adjust it. He told me for 6 years, he had not cared for the steering wheel position, but had lived with it.
  • andeygirlandeygirl Member Posts: 1
    Hi, everyone! Hope someone can help me out.

    Back in December, my manifold was replaced by the dealer under the recall as it was cracked.

    Last week a dash light came on, something to do with the exhaust. I took my car to the dealer and the dealer tells me that it's my manifold and the part is $1000. I tell him it was replaced in Dec., he comes back later with the response that actually the flex pipe is leaking and it's connected to the manifold so that's why the whole thing has to be replaced. But now they're going to try to weld a piece of flex pipe on so they don't have to replace the whole thing.

    Well, now, if the flex pipe and manifold are one piece and the manifold was replaced in Dec., how is it that the flex pipe is leaking already? And shouldn't they cover it?

    Does anyone know if the flex pipe and manifold are one piece or how I would find this out?

    I think they're taking advantage of me because I'm a woman. They're the only Hyundai dealer around and they've pulled crap like this before.

    Any information, etc. is much appreciated.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Sounds fishy to me. You might want to get a 2nd opinion from another shop (maybe you or a friend know a good mechanic?). If in fact the manifold is cracked, it should either be covered by Hyundai or the dealer (I think dealer-replaced parts have a 1 year/12k warranty).
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Also, call the Hyundai customer service number in your owner's manual and report the situation.
  • samberrysamberry Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone, I am currently looking into purchasing a 02 hyundai elantra gt with 101,000. Does anyone think this is a good idea? It is an automatic transmission, fully loaded with the optional sunroof and abs package. I've done my research on the car, and i am getting it for an alright deal (5700).. But what I would like to know is if the engine will last me for another 100,000 miles or longer? Are these cars good after the 100K mark? THe car has been properly maintainced for every important mile marker.. what kind of maintaince would I be looking at though if I end up purchasing it?
  • briggerbrigger Member Posts: 14
    I would be leery. The price to me seems a little high for that many miles. I got an 04 GT with 14000 miles for $8600. The quality on Hyundai has improved dramatically every year, but I would be concerned about getting another 100K out of it after spending that much. I went to a dealer to see what trade-in was on an Elantra. They paid "fair" grade wholesale price on trade-ins, so you could buy it at regular wholesale price and they would still make money on the thing.
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    Well I have a '00 wagon that is well beyond 100K (pushing 140k) with few problems. I think outside of regular maintence I have put in about $200 in repairs (replaced a sensor). If the car has been properly maintained and you keep it up you should see many more years of service. I am hoping to see the 200K mark.

    Is it worth $5,700? Thats up to you but I would try to negotiate that down.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The $5700 does seem a little high if it's a private party sale, e.g. Edmunds' TMV for that car in clean condition in my area is $5162 for a private party sale. The most important thing is how the car has been treated and driven--easy, highway miles vs. tough city miles for example. If you haven't had the car checked thoroughly by a mechanic you should do that, to make sure some things don't need work like brakes, struts, and of course transmission. The next major servicing is at 120k and is a pricey one as it inlcudes the timing belt replacement. Since you said you checked the maintenance I assume it had this major service already at about 60k.
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