I forgot to mention. We are the proud owners of 3 Honda's so far. My husband gets around for cheap commute in our 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback. This was the first little car our oldest daugher owned until she upgraded to a 1997 Honda Accord EX-v-6. I drive the 1996 Honda Accord Lx. We are looking into a 2000-2002 Honda Accord or possibly a Honda CRV. That is why I asked about the CRV. We tried it out and it was nice but a little noisy. We also tried out the Subaru Legacy. What do you all think??? Thanks
a 99 EX sedan and a 2001 EX V6 coupe. We loved both of them. Loved the 99 more just because it was a manual though. We looked at the CR-V when we found out we were having our little one in 2003 but we ended up with a 2004 Accord because my husband could not fit in the CR-V comfortably.
Although we have had out new 05 since late spring, my wife and I did our first long trip this past weekend. We left the northwest suburbs or Chicago and travelled to Cleveland to catch Def Leppard & Bryan Adams in concert.
Anyhow - we left Friday evening, and after dealing with a little bit of traffic getting to the Indiana Toll Road, we finally got the speed up and cruised all the way to Cleveland at about 77mph running the A/C. Made the whole trip (420some miles) on one tank at 33mpg and drove it straight though, stopping only a couple times for food and bathrooms. Car was flawless the entire ride, smooth, quiet and comfortable. The quietness at speed was very key and impressive - road/wind/engine noise has been a pet peeve of mine in smaller cars for a long time.
About 3/4ths through the ride the underside of my left leg began to get sore from the edge of the seat... I had tried adjusting the angle of the seat (power), but couldn't seem to get it right unless I was falling forward out of the seat. I finally just resorted to adjusting myself more frequently in the seat and all was well from there. That would have to be my only complaint about the car at all on this trip.
The concert was just a few miles outside of Cleveland on Saturday night, so no major driving then, but yesterday we drove back to Chicago from Cleveland and again saw similar results in mileage and an equally nice ride. This is the first long trip I have taken in some time where the noise/feel/ride of the car didn't make me tired - even on Friday night after a full day's worth of work, I was fine the entire drive.
In the past, even with my Lincoln Continental, I would wake up the next day after a long trip and feel like crap... sore, stiff, whatever... this morning I woke up early for some reason and am typing this now and feel great.
Just thought I would give my first report on a highway ride. I still want to change the tires at some point, and for city driving I would like to soften the ride... but on the highway, this was a wonderful ride. A+
to hear you had a good ride in your Accord. I took fairly long trip with my 05 EX V6. I went from New York to Toronto, found it very comfortable. I did that same trip with my Corolla and i found after 2 hours in the Corolla, my back and neck would start feeling sore. I didn't experience that same problem in the Accord.
Merging on the highway with the V6 was effortless, and smooth.
The manual (which is NOT the most intelligent, I must say) does not at all explain what's the function of this element (page 117).... It is in the Climate Control section, but does not explain anything about it or why is it there.
ALSO, page 81, why would you want to push the LOCK button on your remote transmitter twice whithin 5 seconds (and hear the super loud honk), so that "to varify that the security system has set."??? What is that "security system" exactly, and what if I just push the button once to lock, would the "security system" fail to work??
The sunlight sensor is most likely used in the systems decision on how high to run the fan, switch on the recirculate function, basically its used for better A/C performance.
You don't need to push the button twice to lock the can and turn on the security system. I guess it's just a way for some that want a way to verify that the alarm is set.
What does the security system do, well I thought the manual explained it? It's basically an anti-theft system that monitors the locked car and is triggered if a door, trunk or hood is opened when the car is locked.
If you want to test the system, roll down a window and lock the car. Now reach in the window and manually unlock the door by pulling up the knob and open the door. The alarm should go off. Mine does if I do that.
Press the unlock button on your key to shut off the alarm.
I don't know about the '05. I have an '03 though and the security works just like mrbill1957 says on my car. The first time I hit the remote lock, if I'm looking I see the parking lights flash. The system is armed at that time. If I'm not looking I hit it twice to hear the horn. The light sensor also controls the dash light brightness in addition to the things mrbill1957 mentions.
Thanks, everybody. The main reason I was asking about the security system is (besides the fact I missed it in my manual...) the salesman was offering me a security system... I am wondering whether he did it out of ignorance, or simply tried to make an extra few $$$...
Otherwise I really like the car. One thing irritating me is the DOORS ARE RELATIVELY HARD TO SHUT, you really have to push the door to shut, which I am not used to -- even on my good old '95 Accord V6 EX, which I still keep...
Also, having lower-back problems, I still haven't found the right position to adjust the power seat, so that my back doesn't start aching after 30 minutes of driving... I know I don't have any pain driving my old Accord, nor did I have any driving the Volvo 850 which I just sold...
Does your model have a lower lumbar support? If it does, there should be a lever on the right side of the drivers seat.
What the dealer was probably trying to sell you was an addition to the security system. If I remember correctly, the ad-on sences glass breakage, and possibly movement of the car. Not sure though.
Thanks, mrbill. Yes, I do have the lumbar support lever on my left.... It didn't do me any good so far...
Since the reviews of the Accord seats are so very good, I must guess I haven't yet had a chance to find the exact right position for the seat, so that it well supports my lower back... After all, we have the car for only 4 days... And only after driving the car for at least an hour I start feeling my lower back, so I guess it will take some time to find the exact adjustment.
My old, beloved '95 Accord V6 EX is driving beautifully, having only 76,000 miles on it. A friend of mine urged me to check about the Timing Belt. I asked my mechanic, and was told that there is no sense in checking the belt, but rather replacing it, since -- although the odometer stands at 76,000 -- the car is 10 years old.
They will repalce the Water pump as well and will charge me $550.
I want to know, does it make sense to do it now? Are there ANY symptoms for a Timing Belt that's starting going bad?
From what I understand, there are no symptoms. If the belt fails, you could damage the engine and face a higher repair bill. In my opionion, this is Honda's (as well as other imports) dirty little secret. It goes a long way towards making these cars costly to own.
I don't think this is HONDA'S secret... I just sold my Volvo 850, 9 years old, with 57,500 miles on it, and was also unaware that Volvo recommends replacing the Timing Belt, in their case after 60,000 miles or 6 years... The lady who purchased it from me was told so by her local Volvo dealer.
I have a feeling that maybe, if being a secret, it's a COMMON secret...
On rare cases they belt may jump a tooth, still allowing you to drive it somewhere to ge repaired. Mostly there is no warning, it just breaks. Just looking at a belt won't tell you if its going to break soon or not, they just get weak with age.
I personally have experienced a belt jump twice at just over 60k intervals on the same vehicle, but my 88 Accord had 100k on it before I changed it. I only did it because the water pump was starting to squeal.
If you were going to get rid of the car in the near future, maybe you could wait, but if you plan on keeping it a while, your going to need to change the belt sooner or later, so your probably better off doing it sooner.
The reason for the water pump change is because they have it exposed while changing the belt. The cost to change the pump then is mostly the cost of the part itself, with minimal labor charge.
When I did the belt on my 88 Accord, I spent $30 (aftermarket price) for the pump and 15 minutes to change it. To replace it by itself, it probably would have taken me 2-3 hours just to replace the pump.
Actually the correct answer is because the Honda/Acura uses an interference engine and if it fails then valves can collide with the piston head.
You said " (as well as other imports)" which just isn't true. Toyota/Lexus uses a non-interference engine which means if the timing belt fails there would be no engine damage.
I think you are correct on the differences. The clear/red lenses have a red brake light in the upper outer corner and below that a yellow turn signal in the clear lense area. The all red units the turn signal and brake are incorporated into one bulb on the upper corner. The bottom red area is just decoration and the backup light.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord Ex V6 with about 4000 miles on it. Within the past 400 miles a unbelievably annoying rattle has developed in the middle of the dash. It rattles upon start -up, but is terrible on any less than smooth road surface. I haven't discussed it with the dealership yet. Any thoughts on what the problem might be or how likely a dealership may be able to fix it. It's so annoying I'm ready to trade it it in thios weekend. Any thoughts, help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
There are sooo many things that can rattle in the dash, for us to say something here to help you fix the problem probably won't work.
You really need to have the dealer look at it. Sure, you can open the dash yourself, which will probably break something, and because you did it, it won't be covered under warranty.
I know how much rattles stink, but you won't be the first to take a rattle to the dealer to fix. The thing that may help is figuring out what makes the rattle show up the best. Does heat, cold, or just bumpy roads cause it to show up? If a passenger pushes on the dash in a certain location, does the rattle go away? The more info for the dealer, the better chance they will find it.
I bought a 2002 Accord 4-weeks ago; had a fully ins. dr. pull in front of me 2-weeks ago. She was ticketed for failure to yield. My ins. co.(whom I'm cx. when this is over), keeps telling me to work it out with the other ins. co. I've been talking/arguing for new/non used parts. The agent tells me today that he called the Honda Dealer (where I had the car towed to; also where I had recently purchased the vehicle) and both won't deal with me and to call my ins. agent and have the car towed to somewhere else. Honda and his co. won't work with me any more because I'm too picky. I went to see the dealer and he told me to take what ever parts the agent wants, if the aren't any good they'll send them back. They also felt that the agent was wrong about me , and that the know him and will call him and tell him that they will work with me.
Thanks Mrbill. There's no one thing that makes it rattle. It's very persistent, just more pronounced on rougher pavement. I'm sure, however, that once I take it to the dealership it will be quiet as a church mouse.
The odd thing is it was exceptionally quiet for thew first 3500 miles, then out of no where it developed.
The dealership is about 30 minutes away from my house, and it is difficult to find time to leave it there. Oh well, perhaps they will provide a loaner if it will be there for a while.
Well i have black leather interior, and it does get really hot in the summer. But dont think cloth will get uncomfortably hot, only leather will. (I think)
Get tinting. I have black/black leather and it is bearable in the Houston sun. And this summer has been a very, very hot one. AC cools down interiro quickly
On the tinting, it will not stick well to the bumps at the top of the back windows and do not get metallic tinting because it can affect the signal quality of the diversity radio antenna. it has to do with shielding cause by the "skin effect". Non-metallic tinting has no effect period!
Bottom lin, I personally would only go with the balck interior becuase it looks the best to start with and looks good in thefuture, becuase it does not show discoloration or stains and matches the interior black and non-beige parts much much better.
cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
P.S. - The shift knob does get hot sometimes, but even that is not too bad.
look at hondapreview.com 6-speed in sedan, VSC, DLR, heated mirrors, 244 horsepower. No mention of LED taillights, but that is supposed to happen also. No pricing yet, But I would expect about a $500 increase.
I just wanted to say how funny it is that the European Accord is the Acura TSX in the states. I looked at the Euro prior to ordering an Accord EX-V6 from the states. The only market that they sell both with the Honda nameplate is in Australia. There the TSX(Known as the Euro Accord) goes for $4000 less than the Accord V6. It's amazing how we Americans are so gullable to spend more on a nameplate. Great marketing by Honda!!!
are tempting. Especially the V6 6-speed version. It will be a tough decision between keeping my 04 at the end of the lease or buying a 2007 sedan. Even the new Si is catching my eye.
I don't like the trend toward bigger Accords--the car is already too big IMO although that didn't prevent me from buying my '04 EX-L sedan which I like very much.
The extra 1.6 inches in overall length isn't much, but the trend is discouraging. Also, I wonder what Honda did to increase both the height and the width by .1 inches--inconsequential, but odd.
I don't care if the new tail treatment is slicker than the 2003--05 Accords because I'd rather have the shorter length to park. The new tail lights are OK, but look too much like most other cars now. The previous tail was more distinctive.........Richard
Black cloth shouldn't get too hot--leather is much hotter after exposure to direct sunlight. If you do get leather, use a leather conditioner frequenly.
Silver is a great color--or non-color because it's really a metallic, light gray. I don't have a facility for washing my car at home and go many weeks without a car wash. The silver still looks good after I wipe off the dirty windows.
Metallic paints in dark colors rot in the sun which reflects from the aluminum dust in the paint and destroys the surrounding color. It's common to see dark cars with a grayish rash-like area on the roof, trunk, or hood where the sun exposure is intense. Stay away from dark metallics if your car spends much time in direct sunlight.
Silver is a good choice for a metallic, but the best color for a car exposed to sunlight is white with no metallic particles in it.............Richard
......it were - would then seem like a good choice giving the hot, bright sunlight extant within the great Central Valley of Los Californios...............
...appreciate the color validation, r38.....best, ez
It sounds like your insurance company doesn't want to have to deal with the subrogation process - that's when they have to chase the other insurer for reimbursement.
It sounds like you are not at fault. You should be able to collect under your policy and have them chase the other insurer. The only thing you may have to go after the other company for is your deductible and rental car. I've never dealt directly with the other insurer except for the the above items - my company handles everything and then goes through the subrogation process.
As far as new vs. used parts - you may not have a choice. All insurers specify used or after market parts once the vehicle hits a certain age/mileage. You can pay extra for OEM parts or have the bodyshop work with the insurer to get OEM parts. But they have to prove that aftermarket will cost more in the long run.
Recently my honda has been starting and then completly shutting off. Even when I try and rev the engine all meters will go down to nothing and I won't be able to press of the gas. Sometimes when I put it in first gear it starts right away but today it didn't. It doesn't do it all the time only at really random occassions. Also, for the first time today it actually "died". I was driving and all the meters went down to 0, I quickly pulled into a parking lot and my wheel would barely turn. The lights were still working and everything else but the car itself just stopped. When I restarted the car it was fine, I didn't even have to rev the engine. Could somebody please help me, I have to drive back to college soon and I really don't was it to die on the highway.
All paints fade and deteriorate when exposed to sunlight. Dark colors merely make this change more obvious. The grayish "rash" may be from improper washing or automatic car washes with brushes. While clear coats have considerably improved resistance to oxidation, protection with wax or polish is necessary for all surfaces. Only organic materials "rot". Metallic or pearl paints may have standard mica mix instead of aluminum flakes.
Each type and color has its advantages and disadvantages. "Soft" colors, i.e. whites, blues, greens, maroons, etc. fade considerably. Removing part of a pinstripe will prove this to any doubters. Few people consider what future repairs will look like. Sooner or later, all cars suffer some type of surface damage. Dark colors are the easiest to match. The lighter colors are much harder and require blending. White is extremely hard to match for a number of reasons. Gold and silver are the hardest to match. It is especially easy to see when one of these cars has a repainted bumper cover.
Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat - it's open mic night, so come and discuss whatever's on your mind.
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kirstie_h
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
fyi...Toyota and Honda just got caught inflating horsepower numbers and are being forced to come clean and report the true HP numbers.
Does anyone know what the real HP numbers are on the Accord? Its not listed in this article, but based on the other Hondas reported, it will probably be lower.
The Accord still has more power this year than last year. It's just that they thought they would be able to get 170 hp this year. Honda rolled it back to 164 with the new procedures. What Civic has 200hp? Not one anyone has bought in the U.S.
The article clearly says that this is due to a procedural change in testing. I think the most important sentence is.. "Honda spokesman Mike Spencer predicted it would take a few years for customers to understand the changes, but eventually all manufacturers will be using the new SAE tests. "We've been using SAE procedures all along, it's just that SAE changed their procedures," he said."
If you can comprehend what he's saying, you understand the this article is a serious case of making a mountain out of a molehill.
Comments
Anyhow - we left Friday evening, and after dealing with a little bit of traffic getting to the Indiana Toll Road, we finally got the speed up and cruised all the way to Cleveland at about 77mph running the A/C. Made the whole trip (420some miles) on one tank at 33mpg and drove it straight though, stopping only a couple times for food and bathrooms. Car was flawless the entire ride, smooth, quiet and comfortable. The quietness at speed was very key and impressive - road/wind/engine noise has been a pet peeve of mine in smaller cars for a long time.
About 3/4ths through the ride the underside of my left leg began to get sore from the edge of the seat... I had tried adjusting the angle of the seat (power), but couldn't seem to get it right unless I was falling forward out of the seat. I finally just resorted to adjusting myself more frequently in the seat and all was well from there. That would have to be my only complaint about the car at all on this trip.
The concert was just a few miles outside of Cleveland on Saturday night, so no major driving then, but yesterday we drove back to Chicago from Cleveland and again saw similar results in mileage and an equally nice ride. This is the first long trip I have taken in some time where the noise/feel/ride of the car didn't make me tired - even on Friday night after a full day's worth of work, I was fine the entire drive.
In the past, even with my Lincoln Continental, I would wake up the next day after a long trip and feel like crap... sore, stiff, whatever... this morning I woke up early for some reason and am typing this now and feel great.
Just thought I would give my first report on a highway ride. I still want to change the tires at some point, and for city driving I would like to soften the ride... but on the highway, this was a wonderful ride. A+
Merging on the highway with the V6 was effortless, and smooth.
I would give it an A+ to
The manual (which is NOT the most intelligent, I must say) does not at all explain what's the function of this element (page 117).... It is in the Climate Control section, but does not explain anything about it or why is it there.
ALSO, page 81, why would you want to push the LOCK button on your remote transmitter twice whithin 5 seconds (and hear the super loud honk), so that "to varify that the security system has set."??? What is that "security system" exactly, and what if I just push the button once to lock, would the "security system" fail to work??
You don't need to push the button twice to lock the can and turn on the security system. I guess it's just a way for some that want a way to verify that the alarm is set.
What does the security system do, well I thought the manual explained it? It's basically an anti-theft system that monitors the locked car and is triggered if a door, trunk or hood is opened when the car is locked.
If you want to test the system, roll down a window and lock the car. Now reach in the window and manually unlock the door by pulling up the knob and open the door. The alarm should go off. Mine does if I do that.
Press the unlock button on your key to shut off the alarm.
Mrbill
Otherwise I really like the car. One thing irritating me is the DOORS ARE RELATIVELY HARD TO SHUT, you really have to push the door to shut, which I am not used to -- even on my good old '95 Accord V6 EX, which I still keep...
Also, having lower-back problems, I still haven't found the right position to adjust the power seat, so that my back doesn't start aching after 30 minutes of driving... I know I don't have any pain driving my old Accord, nor did I have any driving the Volvo 850 which I just sold...
What the dealer was probably trying to sell you was an addition to the security system. If I remember correctly, the ad-on sences glass breakage, and possibly movement of the car. Not sure though.
Mrbill
Since the reviews of the Accord seats are so very good, I must guess I haven't yet had a chance to find the exact right position for the seat, so that it well supports my lower back... After all, we have the car for only 4 days... And only after driving the car for at least an hour I start feeling my lower back, so I guess it will take some time to find the exact adjustment.
They will repalce the Water pump as well and will charge me $550.
I want to know, does it make sense to do it now? Are there ANY symptoms for a Timing Belt that's starting going bad?
In my opionion, this is Honda's (as well as other imports) dirty little secret. It goes a long way towards making these cars costly to own.
I have a feeling that maybe, if being a secret, it's a COMMON secret...
I personally have experienced a belt jump twice at just over 60k intervals on the same vehicle, but my 88 Accord had 100k on it before I changed it. I only did it because the water pump was starting to squeal.
If you were going to get rid of the car in the near future, maybe you could wait, but if you plan on keeping it a while, your going to need to change the belt sooner or later, so your probably better off doing it sooner.
The reason for the water pump change is because they have it exposed while changing the belt. The cost to change the pump then is mostly the cost of the part itself, with minimal labor charge.
When I did the belt on my 88 Accord, I spent $30 (aftermarket price) for the pump and 15 minutes to change it. To replace it by itself, it probably would have taken me 2-3 hours just to replace the pump.
Mrbill
You said " (as well as other imports)" which just isn't true. Toyota/Lexus uses a non-interference engine which means if the timing belt fails there would be no engine damage.
You really need to have the dealer look at it. Sure, you can open the dash yourself, which will probably break something, and because you did it, it won't be covered under warranty.
I know how much rattles stink, but you won't be the first to take a rattle to the dealer to fix. The thing that may help is figuring out what makes the rattle show up the best. Does heat, cold, or just bumpy roads cause it to show up? If a passenger pushes on the dash in a certain location, does the rattle go away? The more info for the dealer, the better chance they will find it.
Good luck,
Mrbill
The odd thing is it was exceptionally quiet for thew first 3500 miles, then out of no where it developed.
The dealership is about 30 minutes away from my house, and it is difficult to find time to leave it there. Oh well, perhaps they will provide a loaner if it will be there for a while.
Thanks.
Ended up scratching it off my list...
Mrbill
On the tinting, it will not stick well to the bumps at the top of the back windows and do not get metallic tinting because it can affect the signal quality of the diversity radio antenna. it has to do with shielding cause by the "skin effect". Non-metallic tinting has no effect period!
Bottom lin, I personally would only go with the balck interior becuase it looks the best to start with and looks good in thefuture, becuase it does not show discoloration or stains and matches the interior black and non-beige parts much much better.
cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
P.S. - The shift knob does get hot sometimes, but even that is not too bad.
MidCow
What do you guys think of that?? :P
I don't like the trend toward bigger Accords--the car is already too big IMO although that didn't prevent me from buying my '04 EX-L sedan which I like very much.
The extra 1.6 inches in overall length isn't much, but the trend is discouraging. Also, I wonder what Honda did to increase both the height and the width by .1 inches--inconsequential, but odd.
I don't care if the new tail treatment is slicker than the 2003--05 Accords because I'd rather have the shorter length to park. The new tail lights are OK, but look too much like most other cars now. The previous tail was more distinctive.........Richard
Silver is a great color--or non-color because it's really a metallic, light gray. I don't have a facility for washing my car at home and go many weeks without a car wash. The silver still looks good after I wipe off the dirty windows.
Metallic paints in dark colors rot in the sun which reflects from the aluminum dust in the paint and destroys the surrounding color. It's common to see dark cars with a grayish rash-like area on the roof, trunk, or hood where the sun exposure is intense. Stay away from dark metallics if your car spends much time in direct sunlight.
Silver is a good choice for a metallic, but the best color for a car exposed to sunlight is white with no metallic particles in it.............Richard
...appreciate the color validation, r38.....best, ez
It sounds like you are not at fault. You should be able to collect under your policy and have them chase the other insurer. The only thing you may have to go after the other company for is your deductible and rental car. I've never dealt directly with the other insurer except for the the above items - my company handles everything and then goes through the subrogation process.
As far as new vs. used parts - you may not have a choice. All insurers specify used or after market parts once the vehicle hits a certain age/mileage. You can pay extra for OEM parts or have the bodyshop work with the insurer to get OEM parts. But they have to prove that aftermarket will cost more in the long run.
Good Luck.
You should also get ground loop isolation for these rcs inputs as well.
I have this setup...works well.
Each type and color has its advantages and disadvantages. "Soft" colors, i.e. whites, blues, greens, maroons, etc. fade considerably. Removing part of a pinstripe will prove this to any doubters. Few people consider what future repairs will look like. Sooner or later, all cars suffer some type of surface damage. Dark colors are the easiest to match. The lighter colors are much harder and require blending. White is extremely hard to match for a number of reasons. Gold and silver are the hardest to match. It is especially easy to see when one of these cars has a repainted bumper cover.
6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!
kirstie_h
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Does anyone know what the real HP numbers are on the Accord? Its not listed in this article, but based on the other Hondas reported, it will probably be lower.
Toyota, Honda inflated claims of engine muscle; new tests force automakers to come clean with buyers.
The article clearly says that this is due to a procedural change in testing. I think the most important sentence is..
"Honda spokesman Mike Spencer predicted it would take a few years for customers to understand the changes, but eventually all manufacturers will be using the new SAE tests.
"We've been using SAE procedures all along, it's just that SAE changed their procedures," he said."
If you can comprehend what he's saying, you understand the this article is a serious case of making a mountain out of a molehill.