Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There are two screws, one in the door grab handle, and one in the door latch handle. You will have to pry out the little covers to get to them.

    If your car is an older model, the motor may not be the problem. The run channels may need to be cleaned out, and greased. Honda sells some special "Shin Itsu" grease specifically for this.
  • elmossoelmosso Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the tip. i'll give it a try today. the dealership told me i needed new run channels and a new motor. i'll try this first. thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the dealership told you that you need new run channels, the new motor will not help much, if at all. Clean out the run channels with some alcohol and some Q-tips, then apply some of the grease. You will be amazed at the difference.

    Honda Accords of the past had very tight run channels (to keep them from rattling). The problem comes when the run channels get old and dirty, the window has a hard time sliding through them. Good luck, but I don't think changing the motor will do any good.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    elroy, I have some slow power windows in my accord (96). i'm not quite sure if i can do anything about them without removing the panel. Can I?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The "Shin Itsu" grease is supposed to work well (that's why Honda dealer's have it). If the run channels are cleaned (Q-tips and alcohol is what I would use), then grease applied, it can make a huge difference. Good luck.

    I have a picture of the grease somewhere, maybe I can find it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Here it is, I had the spelling wrong. It's Etsu, not Itsu.

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  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Do I need to remove the door panels to do this? I'm sort of afraid to if so.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would try to do it without removing the panels. Just try to get as far down as you can. I've never done this myself. Is the window slow from the start, or does it slow down as it gets into the upper part of the run channels. This may be a clue, as to how far down you have to go. The run channels do go down into the door a ways.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    It tends to slow down as the window is about halfway up, and then gets better again towards the top; its weird. On wet days (when raining) the window will slow down to the point I'm not always sure it will keep going.

    Also, I'm not positive that I know where to clean and apply the grease.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    All the way inside the groove, where the window glass slides between the rubber channels. If your window glass tilts as it's going up, the glass may have to be tightened up (adjusted) in the regulator. I would try the grease first, then if that does not work, go from there. It should help a lot. Good luck
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Ok... thats what i thought, but was afraid it had something to do with what's in the door panel. I'll see what I can do before the sun sets!
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    What does TBN stand for amd what does it mean?? Viscosity was low so does this mean it had broken down and was not providing appropriate thermal protectiion?? :confuse:
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    We do have a 2007
    Just wondering if you thought this was a good price below. Do you think I could get them to come down more. Maybe possibly throw in all weather floor mats?

    Accord SE V-6 Sedan Graphite Pearl in stock.

    Our Out the Door Price (OTD) with all taxes and fees is below.

    Vehicle Price = $20,628
    Lien, Title, Reg., Doc. Fees = $275.50
    6.5% Sales Tax = $1,357.07
    OTD Price = "$22,260.57"
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like a GREAT GREAT GREAT price, most SE V6 prices I've seen have been closer to $22k I think, and that's not OTD. Unless I'm mistaken, it's a wonderful price.
  • ggesqggesq Member Posts: 701
    I don't know if this is a repost or not but C & D recently did a comparo and the Accord wins again.

    Here are the rankings:
    Sixth Place: Chrysler Sebring Touring
    Fifth Place: Toyota Camry LE
    Fourth Place: Saturn Aura XE
    Third Place: Kia Optima EX
    Second Place: Nissan Altima 2.5S
    First Place: Honda Accord SE

    In 08, the Accord will redefine the cars in this segment IMHO and if the new competition can't beat the current Accord what will happen later on?
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    yeah they are doing some special this month. Here was the original breakdown he sent me.

    Also, we have lowered our Internet Pricing through February 28. *

    Honda's MSRP: $23,945
    Old Internet Price: $21,264
    New Internet Price: "$20,628" *
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    I plan to make a decision by Saturday. I am going back and forth with the following 2 cars.

    Mazda 6 Sean, 4 door, V6, I can get a 2006 model for around 19,000 before tax and title, this would be the sport version

    OR

    Honda Accord 2007 SE V6 model, I can get for around 20,600 before tax and title.

    What is everyones thoughts? What would you pick and why?????

    As far as drive I thought they were pretty equal. I know that Honda is known for keeping its value and being reliable. I am drawn to the sport feel of the mazda. I am 26 so the accord does make me feel a little older. I am looking for a 4 door vehicle.
    the gas mileage of the mazda is not the best 20/27. Hondas range I think around 20/29
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The fact that the Honda is a 2007 means your resale value will be that much better. For example, a three year old (2004) Accord has a trade in value of $15,741. A four year old (2003) has a trade in value of $13,745.

    Otherwise, that Mazda is actually costing more than the Accord because the depreciation has already hit on the Mazda, yet the price doesn't reflect it that much.

    I'd go with the 2007 model. If the Mazda was a 2007 at that price, it would be a different story.

    I'm 19, and have an Accord. I LOVE it, and don't feel that it is "too old." It's fun to drive, and economical, and reliable as the sunrise (my Hondas have been, anyway).
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    That's an easy decision: Honda! Check out Intellichoice for the cost of owning these two cars for five years. Total cost to own is so much better on the Accord SE V6 than almost any other car, it ain't even close. The price you have seems pretty low to me. I am getting a discount and it is still 22,353 with delv. That price is 1,592 off. Got close to the price I wanted on trade-in too. Something seems too low on your quoted price. In California, it use to be so hard to get a grand off sticker. I was thinking a price I found on Intellichoice was pretty darn good. I am pleased enough. You my friend should run, not walk to the dealer giving you those low prices. WOW! Compare it to other cars with low resale value, such as Hyundai or Fusion, and it is still a lower than price! In our little city here, the Mazda dealer has $5K off on '06 Mazda6, but so what. They can not sell them at that price. Think about trying to resell your car down the road. I mean really, retails of $27K to $29K on those Mazda6 cars did not work, so there they stayed on the lots gathering dust. Get the 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 Are you sure that ain't the i4???
    -Loren
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    A 2003 and 2004 Accord WHAT with what equipment and mileage has those trade in values?
    They will both have to be priced out with the same mileage since they would both be driven the same amount of time at trade-in time despite being different model years.
    They should be able to discount the price the 2006 model year car enough to more than pay for any additional loss of resale value compared to a 2007.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,768
    you'll avoid some of the depreciation of the mazda by getting a 1-year old model, but mazdas typically continue their fairly steep depreciation after the 1st year.

    I assume you've driven both cars?

    Well, since you asked which one I would pick, it is the honda. In fact, I DID pick the honda. The mazda just felt too cheap and underpowered to me.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    Hi Loren, I swear its the 6 cylunder car. I cut and pasted the email the dealership sent me with my question. I think I may go get it tonight. I didnt realize it was that great of a deal. Thanks guys!!

    It is the SE model so it doesnt have the moon roof or any extras. I hope its still there!
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    Here is what he also sent me. Maybe it's a special this month.
    yeah they are doing some special this month. Here was the original breakdown he sent me.

    Also, we have lowered our Internet Pricing through February 28. *

    Honda's MSRP: $23,945
    Old Internet Price: $21,264
    New Internet Price: "$20,628" *
  • deekzdeekz Member Posts: 9
    Check-out www.ifcar.net. They also had the Accord coming out on top. Mazda didn't fare as well in this comparo.

    The Accord has more power, rear room, better gas mileage, better build, etc.

    I just bought the Accord SE V6 after testing the Camry V6 and I4 SE. Although a nice car and with comparable, if not better handling than the Accord, I could not overlook the 3-4k pfremium the Toyo dealers want for this newer model. The V6 Camry is indeed a sweet and efficient powerplant. However, there is no question that the 4 cyl Accord engine and tranny is a much better outfit. The 4 cyl Camry constantly hunted for the "right" gears and power was lacking.

    By the way, I probably would have bought the I4 Accord had it been in stock at the dealer. The I4 vtec had plenty of power for this type of vehicle and with 150 or so less lbs, mostly in the front, it just felt slightly more balanced in the handling department (maybe psychologica0 :) ) It is also more fuel efficient.

    However, I am still happy with my V6 Accord purchase since it has VSA and brake assist, important features not available in the I4.

    The only thing I will probably regret in a year or so is when the new Accord comes out. But we'll address that then. I just got a deal too good to pass up on the present model.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Those were Edmunds prices, mileage would be average (it doesn't give you a place to input and KBB is way off on the Accords lately), and both are equally equipped EX-V6 Accord Automatics. There was no "SE-V6" in those days, so I went with just equal models to show the dropoff in depreciation from year three to year four (which the Mazda he might buy would hit a year sooner than the Accord he is looking at). The difference was $2,000, and the difference in purchase price is only $1,000 or so. Bad deal if you ask me.

    They should be able to discount the price the 2006 model year car enough to more than pay for any additional loss of resale value compared to a 2007.

    My point exactly, the Mazda wasn't discounted enough to be a year old and almost as much as the Accord V6. It just happens to be a bad deal on the Mazda and a good deal on the Accord in this instance.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Just a little correction - my Accord has Electronic Brake Distribution, and it is an I-4. I assume you meant this for "brake assist." It is available on I-4 models. VSA, however, is not.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    If it doesn't let you adjust the mileage, they are assuming much lower mileage on the 1 year newer car (most likely at least a 12,000 mile difference). The Edmunds values are useless if you are comparing cars purchased at the same time. There may be several hundred dollars worth of price adjustments either way for low or high mileage on a 1 or 2 year old car.
    The average 2 year old car was double the mileage/wear and tear of a 1 year old car and their average values reflects that, but it wouldn't be the case in this example.
  • deekzdeekz Member Posts: 9
    the V6 has EBD AND brake assist.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Just checked the Kelly on my 03 EX V6 (with a few extras), and it spit out $16,550. I figure when it's 10 years old, with 100,000 miles or so, it will still be close to $10,000 (private party sale). I may keep it for 15 years, who knows.
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    That's was an OK price to me. People posted the OTD price for the same car at the end of Jan, which is $22,000 in the bay area of CA (8.25% tax).

    I was quoted a very low $21,698 OTD price on Feb. 17 (also bay area of CA). I am not sure whether it was a President's day special, but at least the dealer didn't mention that. However, in the end, I chose to lease the SE V6 for $2,200 drive off and a haggled price of $203/mo (tax included) for the next 35mo.

    I think there is still room for you to lower the price.
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    Last weekend, I leased a 07 Accord SE V6. After two day's driving, I feel the steering wheel doesn't seem to be precise, i.e., at very low speed (<5mph) in a parking lot, if I turn the wheel around 30deg, the car doesn't follow the steering wheel direction to make a slight turn immediately; rather, it tends to go straight a little bit first. But, I had totally tested four SE V6's at different dealers before I leased the car, and I didn't notice the wheel issue at the test drives. Plus, I feel the steering wheel is a little heavy. Do you feel the same? Thanks for any information.
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    I like the heavier steering, overall. Will be picking up my new car today. As for the steering not turning in at first, perhaps you need to chat with service on that one. I too have not noticed that before. Did they get the tire pressure right? My preference is more air to front than back. Not sure what the recommendation is at Honda. They are the engineers, so they should know. In the past, with other front wheel drive cars, I liked the extra couple to three pounds pressure up front. Seems to help turn-in while at speed. As for 5 mph speed, try the car on different surfaces, be sure the tires are where they should be for pressure, and well, I just don't know what to say beyond that, but to ask the pros at service. Side note: new tires will not have perfect grip, so be sure to not push it on corners too much for the first couple hundred miles say, and certainly the first fifty or so miles.
    -Loren
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    :) Then, if "brake assist" isn't included in VSA, and it isn't EBD, what is it, if I may ask?

    Thanks,
    thegrad
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A reporter aims to talk with a Honda devotee who currently owns a Honda and previously owned a Honda. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than February 28, 2007 with your daytime contact information.
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    How much do you think I could get my price lowered??? I am not good with this stuff. Do you have any ideas?Also, we have lowered our Internet Pricing through February 28. *

    Honda's MSRP: $23,945
    Old Internet Price: $21,264
    New Internet Price: "$20,628" *

    Accord SE V-6 Sedan Graphite Pearl
    Our Out the Door Price (OTD) with all taxes and fees is below.

    Vehicle Price = $20,628
    Lien, Title, Reg., Doc. Fees = 275.50 6.5% Sales Tax = $1,357.07
    OTD Price = "$22,260.57"
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    If you haven't gotten the SE V6 yet, I'd say this is a good price. Got mine in November for $22,300 OTD and Massachusetts tax is only 5%.
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    I drove the V6 and the Mazda 6 and overall I'm glad I took the Accord, even with AT. The powertrain of the V6 is just so much smoother and powerful than the Mazda, it gives you a real feeling of effortless flying when accelerating on the highway.

    But if you're going to be driving lots of twisty roads. that will give the Mazda's quicker handling a leg up, but that's about the only driving advantage I see. And that advantage can be greatly neutralized by getting some high performance tires for the Accord and thickening up the rear sway bar a bit for just ~$400. I saw a black Mazda6 with a rear spoiler today and I have to admit it looked very sharp, even though I love the looks of my Royal Blue Pearl Accord. The Accord does have a more "mature" look, but just as attractive in its own way. I wouldn't look at the Mazda twice without the rear spoiler though.
  • deekzdeekz Member Posts: 9
    You can do better. I managed to get under 20k a week ago before tax and license in Southern Cal.

    A decent definition for Brake Assist from an internet search is: " Brake Assist automatically increases braking output in emergency conditions by monitoring pedal input." This is independent of EBD, which balances the braking load of each wheel depending on the situation/traction etc. My tech knowledge stops here. I'm sure you can find more about these safety features by doing a search online.

    Good luck :shades: .
  • redsfan1redsfan1 Member Posts: 58
    You were able to do this with a V6 SE model? Any ideas for a price I could quote. thanks
  • deekzdeekz Member Posts: 9
    pm me and i will be glad to share.
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    Thanks, Loren. I guess below 5mph, the steering wheel behaves normal. I'll talk to the technicians anyway. My car has another issue: it pulls to the left slightly. I tried the car on various of roads, it does that. It is in contrast to what people have normally reported that some accords pulls to the right. I'll watch these minor issues and see if there is any improvment later.

    Did you get your car? I really like the V6 engin/tranmission, powerful and smooth.
  • aamixyaamixy Member Posts: 69
    It really depends on dealers. Overall, I think your OTD is within my budget. Here is the quote I got on Feb. 17.

    "Your total price for 07 Accord sedan SE V6 is $21698.26 (saleprice:$19688, doc:$55, dmv:$220, ca tire:$8.75, sales tax:$1727.51(8.25% CA sales tax))"

    Talk to different dealers and try to ask them to match or beat others' price.
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    If the tire pressure is not really off on one side or the other, then your alignment must be off. Slight right off of center should be normal, I would think, as the center crown is higher. Drift to left, yeap, not so good. Be very sure it is not the tire pressure or just a heavy wind push before worrying about the alignment.

    I got 151 miles on my new car now. It is Royal Blue and I call her Pepsi.
    -Loren
  • rockyleerockylee Member Posts: 14,017
    Loren,

    I haven't seen ya on the boards lately. You must be out driving Pepsi ?

    Rocky
  • glennglennglennglenn Member Posts: 55
    I paid $20,600 OTD in October 2006 for a black Accord SE V-6 in Illinois (I paid to add the wing and mud guards later). Prices are all over the board, BUT I would'nt pay any more than 22 K OTD since the new one (2008) is coming soon and the 06-07 models will be dropping like a rock. Summer is not that far away and I'd expect to see the new one in Oct-Nov 2007.

    Glenn
  • allmeta4allmeta4 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: Am I the only one who wishes the 2007 Accord key (with integral keyless entry module) were smaller? I searched the forums and found no discussion. I've also looked around the net to see if the earlier keyless remotes might be compatible with my Accord.

    I have been carrying a small key chain loop in my back pocket for several years. It has a Honda Civic (1996) key, my office key, Photon miniature light, ID tag and several grocery membership cards.

    I now have this big leather wad in my rear pocket. Inside the leather fold over case are the items listed previously, with the Accord key sticking out by itself. It wouldn't fit inside the case anyway.

    I'm thinking of coding a key and then cutting the keyless entry module off of the key, and then carry the valet key and the module.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. My wife has her Odyssey key and a zillion other keys along with her keyless remote on a big key ring that goes in her purse, I don't carry a purse (or briefcase) all the time.

    Thanks, Bob
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Have you thought of keeping the Accord key separate from the others?
    On a related note, having heavy objects hanging from your key chain, can lead to problems with the key switch.
  • saleemsaleem Member Posts: 114
    my complaint w/ the keyless is that it seems to have a VERY limited range (~30 ft when visibility is perfect) and sometimes doesnt even register @ 15 ft. what gives
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    my complaint w/ the keyless is that it seems to have a VERY limited range.

    Many people have commented on the short range. They are all like that I guess. I used to be able to unlock my Truck doors from across large parking lots.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The range doesn't bother me. No need for me to unlock my doors until I actually get to the car. Don't want my car open to anyone when I'm too far away to catch someone stealing something out of it or something.
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