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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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  • mwrigh1mwrigh1 Member Posts: 3
    I cant figure out how to change the cabin air filter on my 2000 ES. Do all ESs come with a filter?

    How can I get to it?

    Any advice will be appreciated.

    Mike
  • sandesdriversandesdriver Member Posts: 15
    Simply remove the glove compartment, it comes out easily. The air filter is in a horizontal drawer behind the glove compartment. I suggest you buy some filter material used for window air conditioners, at a Home Depot or the like, and cut a piece to fit. This will avoid the absurd dealer charge (check it out if you'd like a good laugh) for the flimsy filter and will work just as well.
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    Should be called the MPV Q & A board. Maybe Drew will change the name.

    Oh, I have one BIG problem with our MPV, my Wife won't let me drive it:( .

    Pete
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    You must need more "projects" around the house my friend:

    "My new server boxes won't fit in the trunk of the car Hun... gonna need MochaVan today"..."I need to get some stuff at HomeDepot, too much for the trunk of Rolf, can I borrow MochaVan Hun?"... "I need to use MochaVan for a couple days to make sure it's not having some of the 'problems' (sic) that I've been reading on Edmunds.com Hun..."

    --java
  • blacklxblacklx Member Posts: 60
    I noticed mine has some on the roof rack rails. My husband recently waxed it, I just noticed the oxidization but plan to ask him if he waxed the plastic. Gee I can't trust him with my van at all. I forgot who had the problem before but did it get taken care of? The greyish strips really show up next to the black van.

    (BTW I don't fall for the "projects" excuse, he has a pickup for that.) I have trained my 2 yo to say "mommy drive" so I get to drive it when we all go out.
  • billmckinleybillmckinley Member Posts: 167
    Don't have to ask permission. The "MPV President McKinley" is mine--ALL MINE! MWHAHAHAHAH!

    RJ
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    If it's just wax marks on the plastic trim, you could use most cleaners to remove these marks. I've even used "Fantastic" household cleaner for this. Forever Black works also, tho I've not really had luck with ArmorAll for this.

    --Java
  • mwrigh1mwrigh1 Member Posts: 3
    I got good advice on replacing the cabin air filter, but I dont have a clue as to how to get the glove box out. I can tip if far forward after releasing the stops, but I cant get it out. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

    Mike
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    you're so cruel:)
  • msgjvhmsgjvh Member Posts: 196
    Pull gently but forceful. You may need a thin putty knife to coax it.
  • brmudabrmuda Member Posts: 50
    Just took my '00 ES in for some minor adjustments & an oil change/filter. I've been noticing an intermittent "clunk" noice coming from front end at times when shifting from drive-to-reverse or reverse-to-drive.

    I thought it may be related to inner tie rod probs but, dealer told me my VIN indicates that prob was already resolved before mine was built.

    Dealer informs me that there's a "fix" about to come out for this. He claims the prob is due to a gap between fr brake pads & rotors and that the "clunk" is the pads moving. He said it's most noticeable when fr wheels are turned and when switching from forward to rearward direction.

    The "fix" will either consist of shims behind pads or thicker brake pads to compensate for the gap. My dealer said he's received plenty of complaints on this one. He told me the "fix" should be available by the next time I come in for oil change.

    If any of you fellow owners have experienced this or have been told similar, PLEASE advise the rest of us. THANKS!
  • su_a_vesu_a_ve Member Posts: 82
    Now that you mention, yes, I have the same problem... In the driveway when switching from Park to reverse, I hear a clunk noise... Mine's a 2001 LX... Interesting...
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    This problem was reported here and on the MPV mailing list several times before and yes, it is caused by the front brakes. Mine does it too (funny, but I read about it on Sienna forums and they have it as well, they even claim that all disc brakes do that). There is a TSB on the clicking noise and some "disc spacer plates" are involved in the fix. Many people had this fixed. I had it worked on as well unfortunately the fix didn't work and the brakes are still clicking. I'm going to have it looked at again next time I'm for an oil change (PS mine is 2000 LX and the VIN falls within those affected by the inner tie rod stuff, however I haven't experienced that problem yet)..

    I hope this helps.
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I was driving MochaVan the other day, and heard a strange noise when I applied the brakes. I was driving about 25mph, and applied the brakes (turning at the same time I suppose) and there was a faint whine/whistle that I could hear while I had the brakes applied, stopped as soon as I lifted off the brake. Mrs. Javadoc heard it, but said she'd not heard it before. Next day, same situation (25-30mph, applying brakes), same exact noise. Anyone have a clue on this, or the same experience? I think it may just be a valve actuator or something. No physical sensation or other action went with this noise.

    Anyhow, thought I'd ask all of the knowledgable folks on edmunds. :)

    --java
  • blacklxblacklx Member Posts: 60
    I finally remembered to show my hubby the roof racks and asked him if he waxed them. "Oh I thought they were metal." And he's the mechanical one in our family...

    One looks really bad, basically all gray and the other one just looks bad, gray on most of it. I guess we'll be figuring out how to clean those off the next time we wash the van.

    I guess I can't trust him with my van...

    Also, I think we may have the VIN number for the tie rod problem but we didn't purchase the van until Feb. 2001. We've never noticed a problem. Is it something that has to be corrected or is it ok if no problem is noticed? Sorry I know that this has been discussed before.
  • bill124bill124 Member Posts: 246
    Can anyone post the TSB for the Disk Spacer problem or post a link to it? I'd like to have a copy when I go to the dealer. I had the tie rods changed but still hear the occasional clunk.

    Thanks.
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    The TSB hasn't been posted here before. Only a couple of times mentioned that a dealer used a TSB to fix the problem. So, there's a fact that the TSB exists, but there's no TSB number or detailed description of the problem/fix... Maybe someone has the access to Mazda TSB list?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    This link will lead you to the TSBs and Recalls database at the NHTSA (drill down to Mazda Trucks).

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • brantybranty Member Posts: 53
    Had my 2000 ES in for its 20 month service recently and I mentioned the clicking noise with the front brakes...the "brake guide plates" were installed under warranty.

    I also mentioned the clicking noise that is heard while driving in hot weather (which we have had quite alot of this year..not complaining!) (TSB 02-001-01 deals with tie rods). The dealer had not heard of that service bulletin but did mention to me that US bulletins are not necessarily "shared" with Mazda Canada (there are differences between models across the Mazda line although I believe all the machanicals are the same). They did finally find the bulletin and have ordered the parts...should take about 2 weeks for the parts to arrive.

    Obviously it pays to "be prepared" when having work done on your vehicle. Thanks to all the great suggestions on this list!

    Bill.
  • toby_laitoby_lai Member Posts: 22
    Yes I've heard similar kind of noise - slight slight high-pitch noise - when applying brakes at slow speed around 25~30mph while turning also. I've just had my '01 LX for all of two weeks, and I just discovered this 'noise' the last several days. I'll wait until I can 'reproduce' this noise consistenly before I bring it to the dealer...
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    thx for the response. I'm glad that we've seen so few and minor points of concern w/ our MPV.

    /java
  • su_a_vesu_a_ve Member Posts: 82
    As of today, two things are listed: crankup time is long and something with the lighter.

    I'm checking tonight my VIN number since my wife has complained about taking a while to start (specially in the morning)...
  • vtac1vtac1 Member Posts: 18
    If it helps anyone here is the TSB and VIN's affected--TSB 02-001/01,VIN's lower than JM3LW28**Y0137197.Hope it helps.It did fix my clicking sound getting tie rods replaced,but if you are in a cool climate,you may not hear the sound since it is heat related.When I was in Vegas a 111degrees their was no problem hearing the noise.I also live in southern Ms,where it stays pretty hot.
  • blacklxblacklx Member Posts: 60
    My van falls under the TSB for the problem but I haven't noticed the clicking. It also doesn't usualy get real hot here and we generally don't do a lot of driving.

    Is this something I should take care of anyway? Or does it not matter?

    The one thing I regret about when we bought the van is that we didn't look closely at the manufacture date. The salesperson was newer and didn't know how long it was on the lot. They did show me the invoice but I didn't pay close attention to it.

    We didn't purchase it until Feb. 2001 but it was made Sept. 1999. It only had 27 miles on it when we bought it so it wasn't used. I don't know where it sat for that year or so.

    I don't want the tie rod issue to become a huge problem but I know that they won't fix it unless I complain about it. Any suggestions?

    Thanks
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    My experience so far with my 2000 MPV that is covered by the bulletin. I live in a cool climate. Didn't notice the popping sound till we drove to Texas. Called the dealer nearest us ( about 70 miles away) and they said they would not fix it unless they could duplicate the problem. Called Mazda hot line and they were no help either. We went on a 5,200 mile trip accross country and I heard the noise often, but otherwise had no problem. I was in Montgomery, Al for a week recently so I took it to the dealer there. After contacting Mazda and riding in the van during hot weather they agreed to fix it, but the parts were on back order so I had to leave before the parts came in. I am going today to our closest dealer and leaving the van with them to see if they will fix it by duplicating the problem, calling mazda or calling the dealer in Montgomery to verify that the problem exists. I will let you know what happens. Everyone says it is NOT a safety issue, but if it is making sounds now in hot weather it will only get worse as has already been verified by other owners who have had the problem. I want to bring the issue to a dealer before the warranty runs out in case they don't fix it now they will hopefully fix it later when it does get worse. I also don't like driving a car with a know defect. The van has 28,000 miles on it and we started to hear the noise around 20,000 miles.
  • blacklxblacklx Member Posts: 60
    I haven't noticed anything but then we haven't done a lot of driving in the heat and it has less than 4000 miles. Good luck and I hope that it gets fixed.

    Let us know how it turns out.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    The dealer in Hickory, NC agreed to fix it and is now waiting for the parts. The info here helped a lot, especially the TSB# and description that was posted earlier. I don't know the posting number since I gave the copy to the dealer. Unless I post differently, the issue will have been resolved satisfactorily. Thanks to all who provided info on this earlier.
  • vtac1vtac1 Member Posts: 18
    I put 8,000 miles on my MPV,waiting to see if the problem would go away.I also wondered if it was a safety problem because I was about to take a 4000 mile trip.Well I went anyway,and as you are probably tired of hearing by now,the noise got progressively worse as temp went up(outside temp).Well after reading the TSB I wondered how the trouble could not eventually be a safety issue.To quote part of the TSB,it says"The concern may be caused by internal binding of the ball joint on the inner tie-rod ends of the steering rack."It would seem possible to me it could at some time break.As I have said before,when I was in Vegas,it was 111 degrees,and you could hear the noise above the radio,and it did it with any movement of the sreering wheel ,not just at low speeds.I had a terrific dealer,when I got back I told him I was still having the problem,and he immeaditely ordered the parts and changed them,he had never heard the sound himself.Just took my word,plus I think he had heard of the problem before.I have had no further trouble,And man it's still hot,in Ms.By the way"cmuniz" I lived in Hickory in 1975 and 1976,one of the nicest places I have ever been.
  • kawazar1kawazar1 Member Posts: 10
    Someone posted the affected vin# range for the tierod problem. I believe the last 7 digits were 0137197 and below. My 2000 MPV is having the same problem and the last 7 digits are 0164321. All of the other letters and numbers in the vin match what was described. I have an appointment for the 27th at the dealership. I will post what they find. Also, I live in New England where it does not get that hot and I have had the problem since May. Just never had time to get it to the dealership.
  • sr_srikanthsr_srikanth Member Posts: 41
    Hi,

    Just completed 30000 miles on my silver MPV LX exactly in one year. We are very happy with our first van. Problems faced - Gas tank cap does open some times freely. Other than this we have not had any single issue with MPV. The best minivan for the money.

    On Thursday when I backed up from the parking lot my front bumper kissed the rear bumper of a 70's Ford and left a 2" diameter dent on my front bumper. Felt very bad. I have to fix it. Not even a scratch on the steel bumper of the ford. My colleague who owns the ford told me that the dent on the plastic bumper may just pop up and then I can wax it so that it. But does not seem to fix itself. Can the body shops fix this or do I have to change the whole bumper? Hate to do that.

    Any feedback is appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
  • caseygirlcaseygirl Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a used '00 MPV on March '01. I have the following minute problems which I want corrected. Would like feedback from others with same type of problems.
    1) Passenger sliding door has rattle. Naturally it's the door most used by the family. I've had it in for repair twice. The 2nd time the tech found something loose, and it was silent for all of three days.

    2) Interior warm air felt when starting up van. Tech could not detect heat/air, nor could find any loose hoses.

    3) Since van was used (from rental agency) a remote key entry was not available. Where can one be purchased?

    On and off I've read the postings since March. I've come to rely on the wealth of information along with the added humor.
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Let's see if I can get some of these right, although I haven't had any of these probs on my '00 MPV.

    1. Da Rattle: I recall some of the early MPVs had some bolts coming loose. Reccommend taking to the dealer and having them LocTite the bolts this time, or if you have the repair order from that visit, maybe it explains which item was loose (maybe/maybe not tho).

    2. Da Air: Don't know about this problem in particular, except that your van will blow warm air right at first until the a/c has a chance to get working. I'm assuming it's hot outside at the same time. I've heard others comment on this tho, so maybe someone can catch this? :)

    3. Da Key Fob: Some folks are finding these on Ebay for cheap. There are procedures for programming these yourself if you have two keys.

    Hope this helps!

    /j
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    If the vehicle never had remote locks, you wont be able to use the factory remote. You may want to check with an alarm shop who can install the complete unit.

    :)
  • garyjwmsgaryjwms Member Posts: 28
    Yes, I have noticed that the air blows warm through the vents for the first few seconds. My theory is that it might have something to do with the cabin air filter -- perhaps that it gets warm as the van sits in the sun, and so when you start up, the warm air is created by air blowing through the sun-warmed filtering element, which then cools down as more air passes through.

    This is my wild guess, anyway.

    You're smart to have your van checked out by a mechanic -- as a former rental vehicle, there's no telling how it was driven or maintained. Good to see that you're giving your MPV some much-needed TLC!! :-)

    Gary
  • caseygirlcaseygirl Member Posts: 3
    I want to start by thanking the following: javadoc, maltb and garyjwms for responding to my questions. Your responses were very helpful, and thank you for taking your personal time to help me out.

    In reference to the warm air blowing in from the start, I failed to mention that this air is felt after an 10 hour rest period in my cool garage.

    FYI: I only purchased this van because of the postings on this site. I felt confident in my purchase because I used all the advice within the web site when dealing with a dealership. Plus knew I had made a wise choice based on the reviews posted on this site. I could afford not to make a bad choice because I owned (and still do) my very reliable '88 Toyota Camry.

    Anyway, would still like to receive any additional comments on rattling sliding doors, and warm air.

    Thanks, again!
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    As humid as it is here (60-80%), this is what I experience in both my vehicles, even first thing in the morning, if this helps illustrate my theory. Lets say I drive home, park in the garage and switch of the van (or car), and go bbq some steaks for dinner after I put on some shorts and a tank (hey, I'm assuming it's a nice day here!). In the van, I'd have been using the a/c, and all climate control systems shut off with the van, of course.

    So, when I go out to leave for work in the morning, I start the van (lucky me gets the van this day for my example!). The first blast of air I'm going to get from the blower fans is a concentrated block of dense humid air, which is going to feel very warm till the a/c can clear out that old humid air that's been sitting in the air ducts all night. I'd say this would last just a few seconds, up to ten seconds, but this is common to both of my cars. How long is your warm air feeling lasting? I'm not really sure you have a problem, although if your warm air is lasting longer, you very well may.

    Little help I am ;-)

    /J
  • glenmcglenmc Member Posts: 7
    Hi folks, just an update on our 2000 MPV.
    1) still waiting for an appointment with the Mazda warranty rep to discuss constant vibration thru wheel and seats at 75 to 120 kmh - after 2 alignments and two new sets of tires. 2)we also had the brake "clicking" noise and had the mysterious spacers installed - probably about 90% success in removing the noise. It always occurred after reversing, on first application of the brakes going forward. 3) we need a RUST REPAIR! on the rear doors. There's a black metal strip at the rear of the door glass that is bubbling out with surface rust, dealer is repairing under warranty. 4) watch out for scratches on the front bumper! We have one from a parking lot issue which scratched down through to the plastic. Because the plastic is molded with a pattern in it (it almost looks like stone guard film, but it isn't) the thing can't be repaired without either a) sanding the whole bumper piece smooth so the repair section won't look funny, or b) replacing the whole bumper. This van will be the death of me soon, I believe.
  • mainsail2mainsail2 Member Posts: 77
    Don't pull out on the whole door assembly! Look underneath with a flashlight with door open and you will see that the LEFT lower hinge assembly is the "pull out" hinge. You must firmly,but gently pull out from this lower left hinge and then slide door slightly to the left. Once this hinge is released the door will feel loose and will wiggle right out. It's also easy to replace.This applies to the 2000 MPV and I assume the 2001 as well.
  • pieracpierac Member Posts: 43
    Hey Glenmc,

    Please e-mail me with your problems. I have concerns about your Mazda MPV. I'm presently looking forward for the new 2002 MPV. If your having problems PLEASE let me know!! I feel I'm taking a slight risk with a semi-upgraded model for the 2002 MPV. It has a new engine and transmission. Do you have an early model 2000 before February? or have the kinks been worked out in your opinion?? Appreciate your opinion.
  • tholmantholman Member Posts: 3
    I should learn to actually post something before I hit the enter key.

    My 2000 MPV passenger side sliding door won't open from the inside. It will open from the outside. When I turn the handle it makes a noise that indicates something is broken inside and it will require repair.

    I've had the van for 13 months. My guess is the warranty won't cover the repairs. Am I correct? I won't go to the dealer if that's the case.

    Thanks.
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    First check the child lock switch. Open the door from outside and there is a black switch lever. Make sure it is turned off. If that is not the problem, then you should go to the dealer...
  • mainsail2mainsail2 Member Posts: 77
    I have a 2000 built in January 2000. I purchased it in May 2000 and have traveled from Florida to Maine in it twice. I have 19,000 miles and us Mobil 1, Pure One oil filters, a K&N air filter, and Friday morning I'm having Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid installed. The average trip mpg to Maine was 21.2 the first time and 22.4 the second time, with speeds ranging from 72 to 77mph. No major problems or "bugs" so far. It's been a very comfortable vehicle except for what apparently is some normal sluggish shifting first thing in the morning--only for a few blocks or so--that's why I'm trying the Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid.
  • msgjvhmsgjvh Member Posts: 196
    Your warranty is for 50k miles or 36 months bumper to bumper. If you have a problem with the door besides the child lock you should take it to the dealer. I have 36k on ours and I get the to fix the littlest of things! Sometimes not the littlest of things like the leather seats that chaffed. I am sure you will not have a problem with the dealer fixing it under warranty.
  • pjzpjz Member Posts: 3
    I had a problem with gas door release, not opening all the time. This made my wife nuts. I noticed one day while getting gas that one of the rubber bumper was missing. Replaced with a slightly larger one, and problem was gone.
  • bksmartbksmart Member Posts: 2
    Here are a few questions for all of you knowledgeable types

    1) We have to have the tires replaced on the MPV -- we have 27K miles on it, but the Dunlops apparently are only 30K mile tires. The van is pulling terribly to the left while driving and the steering wheel shakes intermittently. Are these all tire/alignment related issues?

    2) The last time I had the oil changed at the dealership, they said my breaks were 5mm. What is the thickness where they need to be replaced? Also, the back breaks squeal intermittenly when I back up -- do they need to be replaced as well. Is there a specific mileage or thickness of break pad when they need to be replaced.

    3) The plastic trim around the rear side windows seems to be discoloring. Will turtle wax take care of that, or is this a defect?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • tholmantholman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tip. It was the child lock. The door works fine now.
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    Yeah, well, the ashtray is still too small.
    :))
    15K miles and still looking for a problem....
  • medhoffmedhoff Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2000 MPV from a private seller about 3 weeks ago. Everything seems fine except:

    1) The van is pulling to the left when driving

    2) When I apply the brakes when I am going over 40 mph, there is significant vibration coming from the brakes.

    3) The fuel door does not open sometimes after I pull the latch from inside the van.

    If anyone can tell me if they have experience anything like this in their vehicle and what they did to have it corrected, I would GREATLY appreciate it.
    I am going to bring the van in to my local dealer this week to have him try to corect these problems.

    Thanks.
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    Had the same occasional trouble with the fuel door. Sprayed some WD 40 on the hinge and its been fine since.
  • su_a_vesu_a_ve Member Posts: 82
    How do you properly install an infant car seat (with base) on the middle row seats (capt. chairs)? The seat belt latch is about 3 inches from the seat seam, so the base moves forward that much since the latch pivots forward. I haven't tried a regular car seat in the rear facing position, but my guess it's the same... And since you can't use a tether with rear facing seats, nor there are the new latches...

    Any ideas ??? Do they expect us to place the infants on the rear bench or on the front passanger seat ??? Or should a recall be done ???

    TIA.
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