$2000 over invoice...is that the best you can do? I can get it for $200 over invoice from a dealer in Southwest Indiana. LOL I'm just breakin balls. In fact, since you're in Jersey, I'll have to look you up when the lease is up on my Saab in December and I'm looking at a 325Ci.
22sub...There are many advantages to leasing. It all depends on how much you drive, how often you want a new car, and many other variables.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I like that new 5 series.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
well, you know, that's not my best price! MY best price would be list price, yup, that's best for me;) lol hey, let's hope that the new 5 looks like the silver one and not that red pseudo-7 thing! please!!
jim52....hmm in PA I would think that if you were in the right place at the right time you might see as low as $1200 over invoice, it depends on who you talk to sometimes, how hurtin' they are to make a sale. Other factors may be time of the year, month, availability of the car YOU want, on the lot-ordered? If I were hurtin' to make a sale and you wanted a car on my lot, that you could pick up this month, I'd be willing to try to get the manager to agree to the price you have, within reason of course. That's when I'd be down to around $1200. You're ordering a car from the factory and I already have 12 out the door with 30 cars on order, I might try to hold a higher gross because with the workload I already have to take care of my current sales, yours is going right on top of that, meaning I am doing a lot more things, juggling lots of stuff already. That's just my perspective on it, but you gotta find the right salesperson who will work with you.
Good Luck!
ps-I wish I had 12 out the door and 30 on order in Feb! lol
cmr530i, yes, the damage was 10K$... :=( ... the crumble zone in the rear got cut and re-worked. I do not want the car any more. See my post #1918 for reason for the 530i switch. Good luck on your car repair. Hnn.
Thanks for the info. That's lower than I would have expected. I haven't pushed real hard yet but the best I've seen so far is 1600 under MSRP (or about 2400 over invoice). I'd jump in a second at 1500 over.
Also, if you were going to go as low as you said, would you also be charging the base money factor on a lease or would you want to get some mark-up on that? 2 out of the 3 dealers I talked to want to mark that up as well. I tell them that I just translate it all back into amount over invoice anyway so we should just deal from there and use the base rate. Their reasoning is that the "finance department" has to make some profit too. Is there really a finance department profit center in most dealerships?
By the way, I was told by a salesperson that the "vast majority" of customers pay around 3K over invoice with .0004 markup over the base money factor (which I translate into another 1K over invoice).
A strip of aluminum foil that seems to protect the rear bumper area from the exhaust heat is falling off. Has anyone had this happen and is there a simple fix to reapply this aluminum heat shield?
I don't care what I sell the car for, it's gonna be the base rate on a lease. Too much competition in my area to risk blowing a deal by inflating the lease rate, too easy to check at other dealers. On a retail contract, we usually mark it up a little bit, never more than a point over though. The point markup would more likely go on a shorter deal like the $1200 over one. Yes the F&I department would be payed on that(we like to call him our Business Manager:)). Reminds me, we recently formed an F&I department, first guy we hired was like 30yrs old, drove a Ferrari F355 spyder, was used to really making a killing at his last F&I job, and was really pissing off a lot of our customers. Granted he was making a LOT more money than our current guy does for the business, but way too much of a risk to our reputation. I think he lasted two weeks, making over $20,000 on four deals!? He was very good at deception, so this wasn't the place for him, even though he was making money for us hand over fist.
Remember, of course the salesman is gonna tell you everyone pays three grand over, and everyone pays.0004 over the base rate, he wants you to pay them as well!
Wouldn't your best price be over MSRP? I mean since the 5 is changing next year, this is the last year you can get the current body style. It is going to be a collector's item one day! LOL!
That new 5 in sliver is HOT looking. It looks like they encompassed the styling cues from the new 7 series, but shortened them and made them a bit less dramatic. Those 325Ci Sport Wheels look great too.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
hey, that's definitely an angle I'll try to work on the next unsuspecting customer hehehehe(rubbing hands devilishly). >8^}
As a policy, we don't sell any cars over MSRP. I know the guy who bought the first Z8 loves that policy, he made $65,000 selling it two weeks after he picked it up from us.
ah ha! missed that one earlier. damn that's a great looking car. hopefully they won't put the price point too much higher, but it looks worth it regardless.
A reporter is trying to find consumers who've traded up from mass-market brands (e.g. Toyota, Chevy, Ford, etc.) to luxury nameplates. He says, "I'm not looking for lottery winners, just regular folks who wanted more car." If you have a story to share, please send it to me at jfallon@edmunds.com. It is helpful for you to include your e-mail, phone number and city/state of residence when you respond. Deadline for submission to this one is March 6. Thanks as always for your input!
The finance person asked me to buy one more year maintenance after 3 year when I bought 530iA. I did not, because i did not it will be necessary or not, it cost about $560, I would like to keep my car for longer time. someone can give me a advice? Thanks
Check some of my posts from last month. I realize Southern California prices may differ from east cost pricing, but when I leased my 530i on 12/29/01, I paid $1,000 over invoice + Maco. No other dealer fees. However, the important part was in structuring the lease. I gave six security deposits of $550 each to lower the money factor from 0.0019 to 0.0013. The dealer initially wanted to mark up the MF (to 0.0023) and apply my down to reduce the cap cost. But the way I revised the lease structure, I deprived the dealer of making an extra $3,000 profit on the lease. This is due to the fact that I now get back my security deposits at the end of the lease, where before I did not, and also because I am using a lower MF. The monthly lease payments in both calculations were virtually identical. Hope this information is helpful.
Have had my CPO '98 540iM for about 3 months and 3,000 miles. But I had yet to open her up. She is just a joy to drive at any speed, including legal and slightly above legal speeds. But yesterday I was out in middle of nowhere toolin' down road when the desire to open her up hit me. Drivin' about 60 mph, with tranny in 6th gear. Just floored it. Before I know it the speedo is showing 130 mph and the tach is showing only about 3,900 RPMs. Wait a couple minutes until I hit another flat straightaway. In less than one mile, while in 6th whole time, she goes from 60 mph to speedo showing 140 mph (& about 4750 RPMs), then back to 60 mph. Effortlessly. Now if only I can get her on a track and see what she can do!
Really? 60 mph in 6th gear?? C'mon! I only shift to 5th gear at 60 on my 530. I would offer to trade with you, but I think wouldn't enjoy '98 540 as much as I enjoy '02 530i. Of course, if money wasn't an issue....:(
I am starting the fun process of zeroing in on my dream BMW. The nearest dealer to me is VOB BMW in Rockville, MD. Does anyone have experience with them or have a particular sales person. I'm doing the 530 vs 540 dance right now (thanks to the great discussions on this board). Does anyone think I'll notice much differnce between my existing car (1994 Isuzu Trooper) and a new BMW ?
That's so cool that you can do that multiple security deposit thing in California. Here in NY you can't. I wonder if I could do it if I bought the car in Jersey & registered it in NY...
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
I'd be curious why you can't do multiple sec deposits in NY. It is a plan offered by BMW Finance (see their web site) and unless for some reason it is illegal in NY I don't know why you wouldn't be able to do it. I plan to do it in PA. According to my math, it translates into close to an 18% annual return on my deposit after tax. I can't think of another fixed income investment that even comes close to that. Curiously, I've only had one dealer mention it to me as an option.
From a '94 Trooper, I think you'd probably be wowed by a new Camry, let alone a 5-series. If you'll be ordering a 5/6-speed and sport package (very highly recommend both, by the way), I'd recommend you start with the 525i and move your way up as necessary. Unless, of course, you've got $60k burning a hole in your pocket and are eager to part with it. If you don't get any replies about VOB here, you may want to try posting at www.bimmer.org as well. Good luck.
Seems like based on what millerro3 said earlier that a way to get a good deal if you're really a cash buyer is: Push for a low price but allow them to bump the finance rate. Then, simply pay off the loan.
Of course, you could be nice and wait 90 days (?) so the dealer doesn't get charged back for it...
Don't know about VOB, but have had good experiences with Tischer BMW in Silver Spring. Talk to Mike Mills, who is a long time BMW enthusiast as well as very fair.
help me understand about the 18% ROI because of multiple security deposits - don't you just get back what you put in (the multiple deposits), less upfront dealer fees? that to me means negative return. what am i missing?
So what is the limit to the amount of security deposits one can put down? Do you think there is a way for me to do that and get a 325Ci for $400/month 3 years 15,000/per year assuming the car is equipped With a Sport Package/Sunroof/Heated Seats/Bi-Xenon Headlights? and you'd sell it to me for $1500 over (maybe less since I'd be doing this in December). So am I right in saying that by putting down multiple security deposits lowers the money factor?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
Yes, putting multiple security deposits lowers the lease rate, or money factor.
I just ran a lease real quick on what you said above and it came to $448/mo. with the maximum amount of deposits you can do, which is 9 additional. So, the lease rate went from .00220 to .00130. The payment went from an even $500/mo. to $448/mo. with $4500 in security deposits due at inception.
As you can see, you save $52/mo. over 36 months that comes out to $1872 in savings on $4050(the first security deposit does not affect the rate, unless you're a current BMW FS customer, in which case the first one is waived), which is Guaranteed, you see the savings every month when you pay $52/mo less than you would have if you passed on multiple security deposits. And the payments reflect registration of the car in NY and NY taxes(8.25%) in the payments.
See millerro3's post. In my situation, putting an extra 9 deposits (4500) will lower my monthly payments by about $74 per month. According to my math, thats a 17.7% return (interest compounded monthly) on my 4500 "investment". Since it's money saved as opposed to money earned it is also not taxed.
I just bought a 330i from Levent Inal at VOB. He's very low key and helpful. He was also very upfront about the invoice increases. I've has other sales people help me out when he was not there. They all seem very nice and knowledgeable. Good luck.
dl7265... Aren't catalytic converters normally somewhat expensive? Thought they were made with precious metals like platinum, which are very expensive. Assuming the price includes parts and labor. Maybe the 540iM uses a very large converter? Thinking BMW tries to use a somewhat less restrictive system overall. Does anyone know if the 5 Series, all or only some, have two catalytic converters and true dual exhaust? I haven't crawled under my 540iM.
I have had a supurb experience over the past 7+ years and 120k miles with VOB Nissan relative to my Maxima. However, I have heard mixed reviews on VOB BMW. When I was considering a 530/540 last fall, I got the feeling that they were such a high volume dealer that individual buyer satisfaction was not their highest priority. On the other hand, I have heard true horror stories about both Fairfax and Arlingon (formerly Heishmans) BMW. Like a friend who had his front and rear wheels accidentally interchanged on his 540i sport by Fairfax! Ouch! Tischer was very courteous and went out of their way to allow me to test drive manual sport package versions of each car. Passport is just too geographically undesireable to get to, given where I live and work.
Had I gone for a 5-series, I probably would have ordered European Delivery at approximately $1,500 over the ED invoice from my hometown Pennsylvania dealer. Although I would have given both VOB and Tischer an opportunity to match this deal before deciding.
I decided to keep my Maxima and get an S2000 instead. But I expect to be back in the 5-series market in the next year or two. Good luck.
BMW recommends not rotating tires. However, I would like to get more than 20,000 miles out of my Michelin Pilots (All four are same size - 235/45/17) (530i Sport). I'd be interested in hearing comments about people's experiences who have rotated. Any regrets or noticeable problems?
Dealer tells me they disagree with BMW, who far as i know is the only ones that ever said "dont" rotate your tires.
re: converter far as i know it should be covered under the emissions warranty which is 7 years ? i dont recall off hand. The last converter i replaced on a American car was like 200 bones.
Rotating tires usually doesn't prolong tire life; it simply evens out wear (since front tires often wear out long before the rears, especially with nose-heavy front-wheel-drivers). Although I have only 2k miles on my new 530i, I've heard the tire wear on these cars is more even, so you probably won't end up with bald fronts and good rears. Therefore, and in the interest of letting tires maintain their "groove," (why BMW recommends against rotating in the first place), just be prepared to replace all of them at the same time. If you want to increase tire life on the next round, you can look for harder, all-season tires (which are usually cheaper too), but I wouldn't. Tires are the only form of contact between you, your passengers, an expensive car, and the road and whatever crap is on it. Of all the things to skimp on, tires should be among the last. Just my two cents.
That's pretty good. Putting $4500 down and saving $52 a month is is like getting a return of 1.155% per month, or 14.7% -- tax free.
As for rotating tires, different parts wear out in the the front and back, which is why rotating makes some sense, if you don't rotate, you throw out tiers sone with just the inside edge work out, some with just the outside edge.
If you've got a significant discrepency in wear on a single tire (only on one side or the other), either you're driving around the Indy loop or you've got alignment issues. Rotating tires would minimize this at the expense of ignoring this problem.
Well, I should grant that some unevenness is normal: the outside edge (especially of the front tires) will wear out faster than the inside edge. But by 20-25k miles, the tires are probably in need of replacement anyway. I don't think rotating them would add that much benefit here.
Since SP has different sizes front/rear, rotation doesn't apply anyway. The rest of us pay attention because, while the front tires wear on the outside, the rear tires also wear, and not necessarily evenly. Depending on camber, tire pressure, driving habits, and other variables, there can be more wear on one set of the tread bands than on the other. Let's pretend that the rear wear is not on the outside of the tire.
Moving those rear tires to the front will make the car handle differently, and that can be undesirable, especially at speed. On the other hand, it can change the wear patterns on each pair of tires resulting in longer wear because you're taking a little bit off in one spot, then another, rather than taking it all off in the same place all the time.
Handling is important to very aggressive drivers who are less worried about tire wear than about performance issues. But they probably have the sport pkg anyway. For the rest of us, longer tire wear is very welcome -- we use the car on a daily basis and probably never consider hanging the back end out. If you're just using your 5 as a wonderful ride from point A to point B, rotating the tires makes real sense to me.
As many of you know, I am nearing the end of the lease on my 1999 328i which came shod with All-Season tires (no SP), which I have never rotated. Given that I hit 36,000 miles last night, I thought it would be a good time to check the depth of the tread on my tires.
As a former FWD driver, I have grown used to the fronts wearing out before the rears, so, it comes as a bit of a surprise to me that, on this car, the rear tires have just over half the tread depth of the fronts (3mm vs. 5mm). It seems that I lean on the go pedal harder than I lean on the steering wheel. ;-) I guess that is not too surprising considering virtually all of the miles on this car have been in and around the NYC metro area.
According to the tirerack.com web site, my tires had 10/32” (about 8mm) of tread depth when new, so that equates to another 21,000 miles remaining for the rear tires and another 60,000 miles for the fronts (assuming that I drive the tires until they are smooth, that I do not rotate them AND that I keep the car after the end of the lease). If I do keep the car, I am inclined to drive the tires until the wear bars on the rear tires start showing, and simply buy two new tires (or one and keep the best of the two to swap out for the spare).
Another interesting item to note, there seems to be perfect symmetry to the wear patterns on my tires. Both rears look exactly the same with maybe a hair more tread depth on the shoulder than in the middle. Meanwhile, the fronts look perfect with no apparent wearing of the shoulder at all. I say “no apparent” because my tires (Michelin MXV4 Plus) do not have any measurable tread patterns near the shoulder, so, I have to “eyeball it”.
I would think that any decrease in performance would be imperceptible with the way I drive (aggressive for public road standards but tame compared to track use).
As long as rotation doesn't cause increased road noise or "pulling" I think I will rotate. In fact, my old Jeep had a lot of road noise BECAUSE I didn't rotate the tires.
Now the question is whether to rotate only front to back or should I criss-cross?
The 540 sport come with different size tires on the front vs. the rear. It is on this model with these tires that BMW reccommends not rotating tires. On other models with same size tires on all four wheels, you should rotate tires.
The "Service and Warranty Information" handbook does NOT recommend rotating the tires on my 328i (all four are the same size), it simply states the following for both Inspection I and II:
"Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread and wear pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, readjust wheel alignment if requested (invoice separately).”
That said, I am not inclined to rotate my tires on any BMW that I am likely to own, unless it says “Rotate tires” in the aforementioned manual.
Comments
22sub...There are many advantages to leasing. It all depends on how much you drive, how often you want a new car, and many other variables.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I like that new 5 series.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
jim52....hmm in PA I would think that if you were in the right place at the right time you might see as low as $1200 over invoice, it depends on who you talk to sometimes, how hurtin' they are to make a sale. Other factors may be time of the year, month, availability of the car YOU want, on the lot-ordered? If I were hurtin' to make a sale and you wanted a car on my lot, that you could pick up this month, I'd be willing to try to get the manager to agree to the price you have, within reason of course. That's when I'd be down to around $1200. You're ordering a car from the factory and I already have 12 out the door with 30 cars on order, I might try to hold a higher gross because with the workload I already have to take care of my current sales, yours is going right on top of that, meaning I am doing a lot more things, juggling lots of stuff already. That's just my perspective on it, but you gotta find the right salesperson who will work with you.
Good Luck!
ps-I wish I had 12 out the door and 30 on order in Feb! lol
the crumble zone in the rear got cut and re-worked. I do not want the car any more. See my post #1918 for reason for the 530i switch. Good luck on your car repair. Hnn.
Also, if you were going to go as low as you said, would you also be charging the base money factor on a lease or would you want to get some mark-up on that? 2 out of the 3 dealers I talked to want to mark that up as well. I tell them that I just translate it all back into amount over invoice anyway so we should just deal from there and use the base rate. Their reasoning is that the "finance department" has to make some profit too. Is there really a finance department profit center in most dealerships?
By the way, I was told by a salesperson that the "vast majority" of customers pay around 3K over invoice with .0004 markup over the base money factor (which I translate into another 1K over invoice).
On a retail contract, we usually mark it up a little bit, never more than a point over though. The point markup would more likely go on a shorter deal like the $1200 over one. Yes the F&I department would be payed on that(we like to call him our Business Manager:)).
Reminds me, we recently formed an F&I department, first guy we hired was like 30yrs old, drove a Ferrari F355 spyder, was used to really making a killing at his last F&I job, and was really pissing off a lot of our customers. Granted he was making a LOT more money than our current guy does for the business, but way too much of a risk to our reputation. I think he lasted two weeks, making over $20,000 on four deals!? He was very good at deception, so this wasn't the place for him, even though he was making money for us hand over fist.
Remember, of course the salesman is gonna tell you everyone pays three grand over, and everyone pays.0004 over the base rate, he wants you to pay them as well!
Rob
That new 5 in sliver is HOT looking. It looks like they encompassed the styling cues from the new 7 series, but shortened them and made them a bit less dramatic. Those 325Ci Sport Wheels look great too.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
As a policy, we don't sell any cars over MSRP. I know the guy who bought the first Z8 loves that policy, he made $65,000 selling it two weeks after he picked it up from us.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
A reporter is trying to find consumers who've traded up from mass-market brands (e.g. Toyota, Chevy, Ford, etc.) to luxury nameplates. He says, "I'm not looking for lottery winners, just regular folks who wanted more car." If you have a story to share, please send it to me at jfallon@edmunds.com. It is helpful for you to include your e-mail, phone number and city/state of residence when you respond. Deadline for submission to this one is March 6. Thanks as always for your input!
Very best,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
someone can give me a advice?
Thanks
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
Good luck.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
Of course, you could be nice and wait 90 days (?) so the dealer doesn't get charged back for it...
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
I just ran a lease real quick on what you said above and it came to $448/mo. with the maximum amount of deposits you can do, which is 9 additional. So, the lease rate went from .00220 to .00130. The payment went from an even $500/mo. to $448/mo. with $4500 in security deposits due at inception.
As you can see, you save $52/mo. over 36 months that comes out to $1872 in savings on $4050(the first security deposit does not affect the rate, unless you're a current BMW FS customer, in which case the first one is waived), which is Guaranteed, you see the savings every month when you pay $52/mo less than you would have if you passed on multiple security deposits. And the payments reflect registration of the car in NY and NY taxes(8.25%) in the payments.
Hope that helps to explain some of it
Rob
REGARDS.
DL
Had I gone for a 5-series, I probably would have ordered European Delivery at approximately $1,500 over the ED invoice from my hometown Pennsylvania dealer. Although I would have given both VOB and Tischer an opportunity to match this deal before deciding.
I decided to keep my Maxima and get an S2000 instead. But I expect to be back in the 5-series market in the next year or two. Good luck.
Yes, the price for the cats are expensive, but they're covered under warranty (not sure which part of it, though).
re: converter far as i know it should be covered under the emissions warranty which is 7 years ? i dont recall off hand. The last converter i replaced on a American car was like 200 bones.
DL
Tires are the only form of contact between you, your passengers, an expensive car, and the road and whatever crap is on it. Of all the things to skimp on, tires should be among the last. Just my two cents.
As for rotating tires, different parts wear out in the the front and back, which is why rotating makes some sense, if you don't rotate, you throw out tiers sone with just the inside edge work out, some with just the outside edge.
dave
Well, I should grant that some unevenness is normal: the outside edge (especially of the front tires) will wear out faster than the inside edge. But by 20-25k miles, the tires are probably in need of replacement anyway. I don't think rotating them would add that much benefit here.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD, 2025 Toyota Camry SE AWD
Moving those rear tires to the front will make the car handle differently, and that can be undesirable, especially at speed. On the other hand, it can change the wear patterns on each pair of tires resulting in longer wear because you're taking a little bit off in one spot, then another, rather than taking it all off in the same place all the time.
Handling is important to very aggressive drivers who are less worried about tire wear than about performance issues. But they probably have the sport pkg anyway. For the rest of us, longer tire wear is very welcome -- we use the car on a daily basis and probably never consider hanging the back end out. If you're just using your 5 as a wonderful ride from point A to point B, rotating the tires makes real sense to me.
Take care.
Joe W.
As a former FWD driver, I have grown used to the fronts wearing out before the rears, so, it comes as a bit of a surprise to me that, on this car, the rear tires have just over half the tread depth of the fronts (3mm vs. 5mm). It seems that I lean on the go pedal harder than I lean on the steering wheel. ;-) I guess that is not too surprising considering virtually all of the miles on this car have been in and around the NYC metro area.
According to the tirerack.com web site, my tires had 10/32” (about 8mm) of tread depth when new, so that equates to another 21,000 miles remaining for the rear tires and another 60,000 miles for the fronts (assuming that I drive the tires until they are smooth, that I do not rotate them AND that I keep the car after the end of the lease). If I do keep the car, I am inclined to drive the tires until the wear bars on the rear tires start showing, and simply buy two new tires (or one and keep the best of the two to swap out for the spare).
Another interesting item to note, there seems to be perfect symmetry to the wear patterns on my tires. Both rears look exactly the same with maybe a hair more tread depth on the shoulder than in the middle. Meanwhile, the fronts look perfect with no apparent wearing of the shoulder at all. I say “no apparent” because my tires (Michelin MXV4 Plus) do not have any measurable tread patterns near the shoulder, so, I have to “eyeball it”.
Best Regards,
Shipo
BMW's reccomendation is surely correct for maximum performance, but you can rotate every 10K miles an maybe extend tire life by 25%.
It works out fine for me, as my front tire outside edges were really worn, and no they're on the rear where the inside edge will get chewed up.
Performance hit can't be *that* bad, anymore than putting a new tire on, in theory.
dave
As long as rotation doesn't cause increased road noise or "pulling" I think I will rotate. In fact, my old Jeep had a lot of road noise BECAUSE I didn't rotate the tires.
Now the question is whether to rotate only front to back or should I criss-cross?
"Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread and wear pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, readjust wheel alignment if requested (invoice separately).”
That said, I am not inclined to rotate my tires on any BMW that I am likely to own, unless it says “Rotate tires” in the aforementioned manual.
Best Regards,
Shipo