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Volvo S60



  • Thanks JT for the info. You've got me curious about Sweden.
  • yk40yk40 Posts: 19
    Have a look at CarsDirect. It seems that you can get this car about $1400 under invoice in NY area. Also you can call NJ/NY Volvo dealers.
  • Fascinating discussions (thanks to all for your contributions, regardless of your position on the issues). I own an 03 accord (the coupe with the 6 speed) and an 02 S60. The 03 Accord is for sale while I await arrival of my 04 S60. If I knew I was going to be in a crash and got to pick the option of which car to be driving, I would fight you tooth and nail for the front seat of the Volvo, without hesitation. That's just my opinion, I like to think it is informed in the way that only an owner can know.

    I think it is interesting to discuss all this crash test data. If I am properly informed, the crash tests have pre-defined impact points and impact loads. So if I want to pass a crash test, I better be sure I know how the car responds when impacted at those points and at that load. Gee, I wonder what happens if it get hits off center from those points. Well, I hope that cell phone user is paying enough attention to hit me in the right spot.
  • dbugbeedbugbee Posts: 18
    On a nice, flat road, my S60R will drive straight as an arrow. But on a less-than-perfect road, I notice that it will sometimes dart to the left or right. Is this normal? Is it just the nature of the Pirellis, following the imperfections of the road? Or is it a possible problem with my AWD system. Has anyone else noticed this behavior?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Probably just the tires following road imperfections and grooves.
    The big tread blocks are sometimes easy to deflect.
    My Corvette used to do it all the time.
    Its a common complaint of performance cars.
  • I was told by my dealer that you don't need to "break in" the car when it is delivered. Is this true? I was under the impression that for all new cars you wanted to treat them extra careful (i.e not take them over 4,000 RPM's until the first oil change) Is this true, that for new cars like the S60 R there is no more required "break in"? and you can drive like a bat outta hell off the lot?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    That's probably not a real good idea. What does your manual say?

    Usually you need to vary the speed (don't use the cruise control for example) and be careful to not slam on the brakes for a short while.

    Do check the manual, though.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    a friend of mine is looking at used cars. she has two small children, newly single mom, needs something SAFE, and that will start everyday. she has come across a demo 2003 base model S60.

    are these reliable? i know the new S40 is based on Ford/global platforms. is the S60 a pure and true Volvo? or was the S80 the last of the real Volvo's?

    would you all recommend a base model S60 automatic to a single mom with toddlers? she wants a car that is safe, and one that doesn't look bad either. she is looking at dark green or navy, both are "demo" cars. is the 5 cylinder engine decent? no tranny issues? are the old Volvo exhaust and electrical issues worked out?

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,682
    the s60 is a true volvo. the only "untrue" volvo is the current S40 that is on its way out.

    i don't own one, so i can't help you with the other issues.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The S60 is based on the S80, although it is a much improved version.
    The S60 would be perfect for someone that wants safe economical transportation
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    Yes, my T5 with the summer tires tends to be all over the road, yet the winters track straight and true. That is normal.

    My service manager told me the same thing, these cars are ready to go right out of the box. He also said that the only thing you may want to do is after aggressive driving to idle the car a bit.

    Apparently Volvo supports this "no-break-in" because I have heard and read it countless times even though it goes against everything we have learned over the years. same thing with those 7500 mile oil changes. I can't bring myself to wait that long!

    My S60 has been very reliable and in Ottawa, we have had the worst winter I can recall. 10 straight days of -40C+ weather. Not only did my car start but it heats up very quickly. This is a car made in a country with rough winters and I think all Canadians and Americans living North of New York can be thankful about that.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    interesting ... the owner's manual supports that?
  • poeti18poeti18 Posts: 10
    Although I love my S60R, I don't think the S60 offers enough space in the back for your friend (child seats). Assuming she tried it or will try it and it works for her, the S60 is a first pick, if safety is on your/her mind.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    thanks for the feedback. she seems to think childseats will fit fine. she looked at two of the cars. i wonder if she realized her kids will GROW soon, and not be able to fit in the car.

    she has stuck in her head the "volvo safety/durability" ideas from the 70's and 80's when we grew up. i just wonder if the newer cars are as good. my 1980 hand me down 240 DL was not reliable really, but it was durable in that i couldn't "kill" it, ya know? all news car are so much more complex....

    it is snowy this weekend, so i don't think we will go out looking at cars.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Posts: 358
    Pat, it is true that the manual for the S60 does not specify a break-in period. However, the notion that an engine is not breaking in (or, is already broken in) is stretching reality a bit. The proof that an engine is in fact breaking in can be found in the improvement in gas mileage as the car approaches 2,500 to 3,000 miles. Brand new (with 10 miles on the odometer), my S60 AWD was getting 15 mpg city and 20 mpg highway. (Which is interesting considering the EPA sticker was for 18/25 if memory serves....) As the car reached 1,000 miles, the mileage improved to around 17/22. There was a gradual improvement until around 2,700 miles, when the mileage got up to around 19/26.

    This was the break-in procedure that I followed:

    1. After starting, gentle drive-off (no more than 1,500 rpm) until the coolant temperature is showing activity. Depending on the outside weather, you could be looking at 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

    2. After the coolant is starting to warm-up, no more than 2,000 rpm for the first 500 miles. Also, vary the engine loads (absolutely NO cruise control during this period). This may be one instance where stop-and-go traffic is actually good for the car....

    3. After the first 500 miles, but until 1,000 miles, follow the same approach in 2. above, but keep the rpm below 3,000.

    4. After 1,000 miles, change the oil and filter, and your car will continue the break-in process at its own pace. I would use Mobil 1 synthetic for the oil. There are others that are big fans of Amsoil or other synthetics; which oil to use is a personall decision - I am not a lubrication engineer, what was good for the factory is what is good for me.

    One final note, if you have an automatic transmission, I would change the transmission oil at 3,000 miles. This may be perceived to be over-maintaining; however, if you want to keep the car for as long as possible, you need to get the tiny metal particles out of the transmission as soon as possible.
  • Avolvofan: how do you know that your procedure does any good and actually is the reason why the mileage improves? Have you ever tried to do nothing but just drive the car and enjoy? That is what I do and my mileage improved on all the cars I owned! Please, let's try to stop the myth here and just enjoy what you drive!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The owners manual is actually quite vague on the subject of a break in period.
    We have been told by Volvo to keep the engine out of redline for the 1st 1,000 miles. Varying speeds isn't necessary however. Nor is an early oil change.
    I followed these steps w/ my C70 and have had no problems and I drive it pretty fast.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Posts: 358
    The extent to which one wants to break-in their car is up to the individual owner. The Volvo factory instruction to Volvomax to keep it out of the redline for the first 1,000 miles would tend to indicate that there is some form of break-in occurring (even if one rejects the improving gas mileage analogy).

    Driving and maintenance of your car is your choice - removing the metal particles that are the by-product of breaking in the engine and transmission will result in a longer lifespan. If you are only going to keep the car for the duration of the factory warranty, then by all means, follow the factory's maintenance program.
  • soledocsoledoc Posts: 52
    I'm considering buying a 2004 S60. I currently am coming to the end of my lease on a 2001 C70 coupe which I love....but I have a 13 month old kid and the car seat thing is a real pain. I figured a four dour car should solve that problem. I'm basically down to a Saab 9-3 or the S60. I like them both. Exterior I like the S60 better, interior I give the edge to Saab 9-3. I realize the back seats are bigger in the Saab, but I'm not going to be back there much. It's basically for the convenience of getting my boy back there and the dog (52 lb. vizsla).
    I live in Indiana so we get some snow...just got 5" last night. My FWD C70 with all season tires did OK and the TCS definitely kicked in a lot last night and this morning. What are everyone's thoughts on the 2.5T FWD vs. 2.5T AWD? That's what I'm down to. I like nautic blue and would like to get the graphite/indigo interior but I'm not sure if that option is available.

    So my question is, what would you recommend in considering these three cars in my situation. Anyone look at these and drive them with thoughts?
  • phils60phils60 Posts: 21
    IMHO - Lengthy scheduled break-in periods serve to satisfy the owner's psyche far more than serving the needs of the auto-- same goes for synthetic vs. mineral lubricants. Save your money and put it towards tires and brakes. Your Volvo air conditioner will likely fail more than once before you need any internal engine repairs. Maybe there should be a break-in period for the air conditioner? (grin)... Enjoy your Volvo.
  • phils60phils60 Posts: 21
    I'd get the 2.5t. The S60 really lacks acceleration under 3k rpm without the turbo. When I purchased mine in Sept, 03, they had a greater rebate on the 2.5t so the price was the same. 2.5t Sport Package $29,185 Atlanta GA.
  • Just got a call from a local dealer with the following:

    Volvo S60R, metallic paint, 6spd, premium, climate, touring, 18' wheels

    MSRP: 41,475
    Lease Term: 48 mo/12K
    Residual: 44% of MSRP (18,249)
    Rebate: $4,500, 1K to dealer, $3,500 cash to me
    Acq. 795 (cap to lease)
    Filing 389 (cap to lease)
    Adj. Cap Cost 42,403
    1 mo. payment: paid by dealer
    Monthly Payment before taxes: 648.77/687.70 w/ tax
    Money factor: .0024(roughly 5.76% annual interest)
    $$ due at signing: $0.

  • chef228chef228 Posts: 12
    I own two Volvo's, a 2001 XC with 65,000 miles and a 2003 S60 T5 with 13,000. About two weeks ago I found fluid on my garage floor under the 60. When I brought it in they told me that there was a defective clamp associated with the power steering system that caused a leak. Fixed under warranty.

    Monday I found the same fluid under the XC. Brought it in and guess what, a defective clamp associated with the $51.00 to replace the defective clamp.

    What I want to know is why do I have to pay for a "defective" part? Anyone else having this problem with leaking power steering fluid or do I just happen to own two different cars from the same company coincidently with the same problem?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,682
    What is that $3500 customer cash you speak of? I don't see it here on Edmunds. Is that a factory rebate or is that how much the dealer is knocking off MSRP for you?

    Also, i wanted to comment on that residual. That is pretty harsh. Just comparing to some lease deals I've seen on Hondas lately (one of which was a 4-year deal on a CRV we got for my sister), they are giving 52% after 4 years. Volvos are really getting hit hard. Makes me want to stay away from buying new ones. Oh well.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Dealer told me it was a $4,500 factory rebate.

    I agree the residual is a little low.

    Thanks for the input!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,682
    discounting the R that much this early in its life is really bad news. Maybe a volvo salesperson can confirm if this is a true rebate?

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • rollierollie Posts: 337
    Can't really tell if the residual is low or if your rebate isn't really a rebate. The best thing to do is find the ALG residual as this is the bible for residuals for leasing (and if the R is listed significantly higher in ALG then we know where the 'rebate' is coming from...)


  • The rebate is specific to leasing only per the dealer. It is being offered as a lease incentive which is why the money factor is just so-so.

    Also, dealer is keeping 1K but applying it to 1st months payment, tags, title such that cap cost on lease is only being reduced by 250 of the 1000 but i'm benefitting from the cash.

    Once again, input appreciated
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Does exist. Lease only, this way Volvo doesn't have to subvent the factory lease.
    What lease company is that through?
    There are better leases than that out there.
    Assuming you qualify.
    Residual should be @ 46% Money factors in the .00150-.00200 range for A+ tiers.
  • There were two but I can't recall their names. I'll get them and post them.

    In my opinion, the residual seemed more in line with 15K miles a year which is what i'll push for if I pull the trigger.

    I'm not sure if I can get a better $$ factor AND the rebate but i'm sure going to try.

    Appreciate the continued input. We'll post more as information comes to light.
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