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Comments
S60 2.5T AWD
Titanium/Graph
SPORT PAC
PREMIUM PAC
BI XEON
$36,710.00 MSRP
$34,461.00 COST
$(4,500.00) CASH BACK/Discounts
$29,500.00
I feel this is a strong deal- but wanted to know if anyone has seen better
Thanks
I am still in love with this car and believe it is one of the best valued deal for a 300hp fully equipped car.
I never thought about it much, just assumed they knew what they were talking about.
But it makes absolutely no sense, now that I think about it, that a 4x4 or AWD car would somehow be more stable or be able to brake better than a RWD or FWD.
If someone on this board is into racing, please feel free to explain.
They should have flared the fenders on the R.
The new S40 has a much better wheel well setup.
Thanks for any comments.
Not a biggy, but needs to be checked.
This seems a reasonable option as its only got around 38,000 on the clock. However for that kind of money I would have enough to cover payments on a lease for about four years on a new S60 or maybe a new S40.
Observations? Is the S60 going to be reliable in years 5-8, or more important beyond that? I dont think there are too many cars older than mine but there will be many with more mileage, so reliabilty experience on the S60 would be greatly appreciated?
PS: I had kept my prior Volvo, a 760 Turbo for 16 years with only the Turbo being a major cost item (which is why I didnt get the S60 Tutbo!). The 760 seemed to be a more "solid" car than the S60 as a "keeper".
If you really want to keep your Volvo forget about residual. Whoever you're dealing with does not want the car back. Best offer I would make is 12,000 and forget about the warranty.
Basically, your buying the car at invoice minus the Dealer incentives.
If the S60 was going to be as good as the old 240 after 8 years it would be OK to keep it I guess, but I think that the old way of making cars is long gone, just my thought.
1. Corrosion resistance. The older way of building cars relied on application of many coats of paint, which increased the weight of the car and reduced the gas mileage and drivability of the car. The new way relies on much greater use of galvanized steel. When did the 240 ever come with an 8 year corrosion warranty?
2. Construction of the car. Today's S60 makes extensive use of Boron alloy steel, which makes the car much stronger yet, lighter because a thinner guage of steel can be used to get a stronger structure while achieving better mileage and drivability.
3. Safety improvements. Technology marches on. While the 240 was a benchmark for safety in its day, the S60 has significant safety advances. I am referring to both technological advances such as WHIPS and DSTC, as well as a much stronger yet passively safer body frame.
I could go on, but I think you get my point. In terms of your present confusion, only you can make the decision. Personally, if I had a car that I had zero problems with and could own the car as opposed to "borrowing" the car, I would buy it. It is not as if a new S60 is going to obsolete your present S60. But then again, it is ultimately your decision.
If the S60 was going to be as good as the old 240 after 8 years it would be OK to keep it I guess, but I think that the old way of making cars is long gone, just my thought.
Volvo must come up with a 4 wheel steer for this vehicle.
To the person considering buying out the 2001 S60, I also say go with the new, the 2005 is the best, and should be the most reliable as it is the 5th year of the S60.
I can't beleive I need to replace my rear rotors for a pulsation I have. my car has only 14000 miles and the problem has been since about 12000 miles. My dealer syas they must have warped because of the low mileage. I tell them that is not my problem. If Volvo cannot build better rotors that last this long, then they should pick up half the tab. They say no. i am really peeved about this because they are losing a potentially lucrative customer here. I am planning to get an XC90 next year as well as a S60 R for myself. If they do not reconsider, then I amy have to go to the BMW dealer that is a stones throw away.
Has anyone else had a problem with the rear brakes? I don't get it, especially in a car that has a hevay weight bias over the front brakes. What peeves me also is my brake pads have %80 life on them, but they recommend new ones for the new rotors.
Do I have a valid complaint? Or am I just wa-wa-whining?
Bought a 2000 Toyota Tundra. After 15k miles front brakes began pulsating due to rotors being warped. Toyota replaced free and apologized. I would not expect the same from my Volvo dealer.
The turning circle issue is related to 2 things, the FWD setup and the tranverse 5 cyl engine.
The new S40 is only 175 inches long, plus its wheel wells are much larger in relation to its size that either the S60 or 850. also the standard 850 had narrow 15" tires on it. the 850 turbo and 850 R had turning circles in the 37 foot range. The S90 RWD had a 31 ft circle.
Any way you slice it the S60's circle isn't good. Its better than my C70 was haowever.
I have never had better service from any service organization, than I have from the Calabasas Volvo service department.
They made my entire Volvo experience, despite of my fair share of the common problems, truly amazing.
So, look for the better dealer.
What trim is discounted?
If you have an 850, see how far you can get the tires to turn, then look at the S60.
s60 2.4
Congrats on your new car. It could be as much as 3-4,000 miles before your fuel economy stabilizes.
If you really want to keep your Volvo forget about residual. Whoever you're dealing with does not want the car back. Best offer I would make is 12,000 and forget about the warranty." UNQUOTE
Edmunds has a TMV price in my zipcode of $29,143 for a 2004 S60 (with leather etc for $2,300 of options), are Edmunds TMV values full of crap then? Thats way more than your 20,500!!
Question:
At lease expiry, can I negotiate with Volvo and make them an offer, will they do that? It makes sense for them to sell to the lessee as it will save them money on transportation, prepping and marketing the car etc. But an offer of $12,000? Do any car lessors negotiate in this way?
Sometimes, the finance company will sell the car to a dealer at a discount from the contract price in the lease agreement so that they have certainty on the transaction. If you have a good relationship with the dealer that sold the car to you originally, you might be able to have them purchase the car for you and sell the car back to you with a slight mark-up for the dealer's effort on the transaction. Personally, I doubt that $12,000 will be accepted unless that is the maximum that is bid for the car at auction. And there is nothing that requires Volvo Finance to hold an auction in your neighborhood; the car is theirs and they can sell it where they think they will get the best price for it.
Sometimes they will offer you your car at a lower price than what is in your contract.
However, they have been less likely to do that over the last few months.
Finance companies have ways of writing off losses on leases, residual insurance for one thing, they may not be able to do that if they sell you the car.
Given the current incentive climate you are probably better off leasing a new Volvo and returning yours.
Thanks
I just purchased an s60 yesterday. I do a lot of highway driving and am wondering if it is worth it too purchase the paint chip protection? For my 1996 subaru I was able to purchase a deflector for the hood to help prevent chips, but I didn't see that availabe for the Volvo. I am not sure the deflector helped much, the subaru does have a lot of chips on the hood, but it also has a lot of miles.
The performance from 0-60 is close to the AWD if you opt for an auto. The handling, seats, and appearance are alot better in the R.
Neither car exist in great numbers, however there are some good deals available on both cars.
New Owner:
Welcome to the club!
There is a product called Clear Bra which can be applied to the front of your car to diminish paint chipping. Otherwise, there are paint companies that can touch up your chips alot better than you could with a tube of paint.
http://www.xpel.com/