The S60's were quite reliable. However, a 98,000 mile car will doubtless need some maintenance, which can be expensive. CV boots, Motor mounts, water pump, Timing Belt, suspension bushings, these are all things that will need replacing eventually. Make sure that you have a mechanic who is familiar w/ Volvo's look the car over before you buy.
2006 S60 Demo with Climate, Premium, Bi- Xenon and Wood Steering Wheel. 10K miles. Price is 23,400. 12k off MSRP. Also is it safe to buy Demos. I heard they get abuse and abuse. Please provide any input, thanks again.
Or should I get a brand new one for 27,300 - 2007 S60 with Climate & Premium?
Also can someone tell me if the maintence cost high on the S60? Like compare to the Accord? I don't want something to break down and cost me a fortune. Please advise, maybe Volvomax?
10k miles is a little steep for a demo. Most don't go over 5-6k.
Don't worry about abuse, the cars are always gone over prior to sale. Plus, its an investment, and dealers don't abuse their own cars. Maintenance runs to about $180 avg every 7500 miles. Big service $600 or so every 60k. Repairs aren't cheap,so maybe an extended warranty is in order if you plan on keeping it over 50k.
BIG BIG money to be had on a lease. So a brand new T5 would be almost $12k off MSRP anyway. So, no, I wouldn't touch one with 10k miles for that price.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well,buying a new one,as opposed to leasing would run you $28-30,000 depending on the equipment. So the purchase price isn't bad. Its not great,but it isn't bad.
For what it's worth, here is my experience. (You can search and find my queries here re the car I bought - it might be helpful.) I bought a 2006 S60 T5 in April 06. It was a dealer car, had been put on the road in Dec 05. It had 7700 miles on it. It has a sports package, i.e., the fancy tires, but regular steering wheel (not wood).
I ended up buying it outright for $25,000 and that included a 6-yr 100k mile warranty. That's after having walked out the door, and driven away - the dealer called me 15 mins later and said ok to that price. However, given the numbers you're quoting, maybe I still paid too much? Have the prices gone down, or was I duped? Volvomax? Please explain.
Anyway I would negotiate harder than you think you can and definitely be prepared to walk out - it's just a car (and the gas mileage in the city is 18 mpg average) - though it has great seats and headrests.
Now they are offering me 24,300 plus the extended warranty of 6yr/100,000 mile by offering it to be certified. Also throwing in a 7500 mile service. What do you guys think....a good deal. Again the car is a 2006 S60 with 11500 miles instead of 10k in my last post. It has the premium, climate, wooden steering wheel and xenon lights. Or should I just got with a brand new Honda Accord for 23,400 plus I have to pay 815 for a warrant that is 6 yr/100,00 plus they are throwing in a 1yr oil change.
If that's what they're offering you can probably get them to go lower if you want to.
I don't know. Are you going to keep the car for many years, i.e., beyond 6? Maybe the Honda, then.
Which do you find more comfortable?
What's the gas mileage on the Honda? Are you interested in its Hybrid?
What's the safety on each?
Those were things I thought about, finally chose the Volvo because I'm tall and the seats are great. The gas isn't. The safety is nearly perfect, though Volvo should get its side impact stats up to excellent. The headrests saved me from whiplash. So I chose personal comfort and well-being over the environment. I wish I hadn't had to make that decision.
I can tell you first hand that the volvo is a far nicer vehicle to live with day to day. I had an S70 for 4.5 years (not much different than the current S60) and have now had an Accord for over a year. I loved the S70 the whole time, yet I'm already tired of the Honda. It is not nearly as comfortable and the suspension and road noise, while not immediately noticeable on a 10-minute test drive, are much harsher in the honda.
Real-world gas mileage might be 1-2 mpg difference. Not a big deal.
If I was purchasing and planned on keeping the car long-term, I'd buy the volvo, personally. Given that I leased, the Honda was still an easy choice since it leased SO much cheaper at the time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't plan to keep the car for that long, but I drive a lot of miles per year. Anywhere from 25k - 30k, that's why I want the warranty. It's not the yers that count, but the miles.
I can't get them to lower anything anymore. I think it's final for them and they're kind of get piss off because I always change my mind. They're nice people so I understand. Thanks for all the replies guys.
Thanks for all the input guys. I took the S60. I know you guys are Volvo lovers here, otherwise why would you be reading this forum. Hopefully I'll enjoy it like how you guys enjoy it, thanks.
yes, i'm a volvo lover, but don't forget, at the moment, I have no volvo, but i do have an Accord. So I think that should count for some sort of nonbias.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have tried to use the EDMUNDS website to value my S60....but at the START of the process the used car "questionaire" asks for a 5 digit zipcode - but when ANY 5 digit zipcode is imput there is an ERROR MESSAGE "please enter valid zipcode". So its impossible to progress beyond that point
It is very annoying and I have had to use a competing website for valuations. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
At a "Full Service" gas station the bozos managed to damege the gas door - in fact it was ripped out. Is this a common ailment for the S60 as it seems there are just some plastic hinge stubs left. Its hardly a strong design.... :lemon:
Hi all, I have a S60 for almost a month and am very annoy from this buzzing noise that is near the window when I'm driving around 80 mph. This is the average speed that I drive when I go to work as everyone is driving that speed. Only on the driver side. I brought it back to the dealer twice and they can't hear that noise because they won't drive that speed. Sometimes I heard it at 60 - 65, but rarely. Does anyone have this problem?
Also I have rattles from the rear doors when I play music with a lot of bass. Dealer does not have a fix and said it's abnormal.
Also rattle from the metal plate in the trunk where the speakers are. All you have to do is knock on it and it's present. I hear this rattle every time I go over bumps at low speed. So far no fix for these 2 problems. Dealers hears it and does not have a fix yet. Any input would be great as I'm going to bring it back to the dealer next week. Help!!!
i bet the buzzing is the plastic clip on the lower left windshield used to hold parking tickets, etc. to test this theory, try putting some papers in it (preventing the plastic from resting on the glass), then get up to speed. if you don't hear the buzzing, pull the papers and see if the buzzing returns. if so, go back to the dealer and tell them to tighten it up!
I have rattles from left rear door as well with loud music or the right frequency . 2 dealers have tried to fix it repeatedly to no avail. It is clearly not the speaker, but in the door handle area. After 5 visits I have given up hope on it. Volvo only covers squeaks and rattles for 12 months. This will extend if you have established the problem before the warranty expires.
I found where the rattles are it's the door panels. The area where it rest next to the windows. I hope they can change my door panels. I'll give it a shot again. It's clearly a defect of the door panels not being produce right from the factory.
I am considering going to an outfit like Midas or Meineke for a $400 job for replacement of the front brakes. The car has 77,000 on the clock. The question is would it in fact be better to pay $700 at a dealer - will there be any REAL difference in quality as clearly Volvo dont make their own brakes anyway. Do Midas and Meineke use really substandard cheap stuff? Another alternative would be to buy rotors and pads online and have my indy do the job for a bit more than Midas. :confuse:
go with your indy. And go with better aftermarket rotors and pads. That's my opinion, anyway. When I took my volvo to midas a few years back, they wanted $700 to do all 4.
I bought brembo cross-drilled rotors and, IIRC, mintex pads online for about $250 and did the job myself. The brembos lasted FAR longer than the OEM volvo rotors.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Mine doest that also. Brought it to the dealer and it made no noise. They put some teflon tape and foam tape inside the column but it didn't work. Any luck with yours?
Puzzled by sporadic accelertor surge while braking my 2003 S60. Usually happens after hard driving for a while. Is this a clogged fuel line/injector or carbon buildup? Only have 15,000 miles on car. appreciate any thoughts and solutions for this problem. thanks.
I have same problem with my 2003 base S60. any suggestions on how to fix? I don't seem to have transmission slippage, but is the electronic throttle control causing the problem? appreciate any thoughts on solving this problem. Only have 15000 miles on car which otherwise is exemplary machine. thanks. ellenbep
Mysterious activity with my radio - I'm listening to a station (FM) and suddenly, after a few minutes, it switches by itself to CD mode (I checked: there's no CD in there.)
Car's got 16,000 miles on it. This just started. (I might have been fiddling with the FM1 vs FM2 vs FM3 modes lately, but that shouldn't be the reason for this, should it?)
I inherited a 2001 S60 and it has the cassette player only. I guess it's the 413 console. I may buy a cassette adapter and play my iPod into it as well as a portable CD player into it. Is there an aftermarket replacement for this whole console that would have the CD player? Also, is there another discussion group that discusses Volvos? So far I'm impressed with the ride and the mileage (it doesn't have turbo). Thanks.
You would have to replace virtually the entire sound system. It would probably be more cost effective to either add the factory cd changer,or repalce the stereo w/ a Volvo one that has a built in cd player. there are plenty of sites that discuss Volvo. the best is probably Swedespeed.
I just purchased my 2002 Volvo S60 T5. It has just over 100,000 miles. I have not found a certified mechanic in my area yet but wondered if anyone knows how to make a message of a "bulb position light out" go away. Both the fog lights had cracked housings and the bulbs blown so I changed them myself and thought the message would go away once the circuit was completed again, but it didn't. Is this something only a Volvo place can do? Also, is there a good online outlet for interior replacement parts? The console flap (for lack of a better word) is broken. I appreciate any information available Bre
Replace the bulbs, and message will go away. Position lights are located at the back, they are part of rear light assembly - two lights one above another with the red reflector. So there are 4 position light bulbs. One or more of them is still blown.
I never even thought about there being another light out. That's what I get for assuming and only looking at the obvious. Of course, the fog lights needed replacing anyway. Thank you, I'll check the other lights once it's dark. Bre
There is a ring on the left turn stalk that you can turn and it will give you the different functions on the trip computer. Keep turning it until the display goes dark to turn off the trip computer.
Your on-board computer measures/calculates the fuel consumption in miles per gallon (MPG) once every 5 seconds. That is what you see. I usually keep the Miles to Empty (showing XXX miles) on display.
07 2.5T regular service due message . The car has 680 miles. The manual say it comes on after 7500 miles , ??? hours or 1 year. How do you make it go away?
Hi folks, Just purchased a 2006 Volvo as above. Formerly a VOLVO UK owned car and has a mere 6500 miles on it. It has the D5 2.4 ltr 185bhp diesel mated to the 6-spd Geartronic and all the usual toys and a wonderful sound system, (for a standard fit). :shades:
Performance is "brisk", particularly in the mid-range with its 295lbft of torque and I'm getting to love the beast. Comfort and enjoyment.
If you guys don't get this engine in USA you are truly missing out.
I've done 60 miles service to my 2002 S60 myself. I just don't know how to reset message indicator on dashboard saing "regular service required". Could I do it myself or should I go to a dealer for it? Thanks in advance
Can anyone tell me the steps to reset my computer after doing an oil change? I am changing the oil myself and do not know how to rest the computer. Also, how much oil goes in this car?
My mechanic has told me that I need to replace my Turbo at a cost of ~$1600. I noticed small oil drops that my car is leaking and apparently that is b/c the Turbo is cracked. I need to fix it now at 90k before it starts injecting oil into the engine. Does this sound right to you?
Sometimes the oil line to the Turbo develops a leak. this is a simple repair. It is unheard of for the Turbo housing to crack. I would get a second opinion if I were you.
Dear Volvomax, Thanks so much! This is a mechanic that I generally trust, so maybe I am misunderstanding/not relating the situation correctly. Does the Turbo wear out? Or anything around it? Apparently the problem is that if I don't fix it, ultimately the oil that is collecting in the Turbo will start getting injected into the engine. If you have any other thoughts they are most appreciated. Although I don't want to overimpose!
Comments
However, a 98,000 mile car will doubtless need some maintenance, which can be expensive.
CV boots, Motor mounts, water pump, Timing Belt, suspension bushings, these are all things that will need replacing eventually.
Make sure that you have a mechanic who is familiar w/ Volvo's look the car over before you buy.
Or should I get a brand new one for 27,300 - 2007 S60 with Climate & Premium?
Also can someone tell me if the maintence cost high on the S60? Like compare to the Accord? I don't want something to break down and cost me a fortune. Please advise, maybe Volvomax?
Most don't go over 5-6k.
Don't worry about abuse, the cars are always gone over prior to sale.
Plus, its an investment, and dealers don't abuse their own cars.
Maintenance runs to about $180 avg every 7500 miles.
Big service $600 or so every 60k.
Repairs aren't cheap,so maybe an extended warranty is in order if you plan on keeping it over 50k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So the purchase price isn't bad.
Its not great,but it isn't bad.
For what it's worth, here is my experience. (You can search and find my queries here re the car I bought - it might be helpful.) I bought a 2006 S60 T5 in April 06. It was a dealer car, had been put on the road in Dec 05. It had 7700 miles on it. It has a sports package, i.e., the fancy tires, but regular steering wheel (not wood).
I ended up buying it outright for $25,000 and that included a 6-yr 100k mile warranty. That's after having walked out the door, and driven away - the dealer called me 15 mins later and said ok to that price. However, given the numbers you're quoting, maybe I still paid too much? Have the prices gone down, or was I duped? Volvomax? Please explain.
Anyway I would negotiate harder than you think you can and definitely be prepared to walk out - it's just a car (and the gas mileage in the city is 18 mpg average) - though it has great seats and headrests.
Good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't know. Are you going to keep the car for many years, i.e., beyond 6? Maybe the Honda, then.
Which do you find more comfortable?
What's the gas mileage on the Honda? Are you interested in its Hybrid?
What's the safety on each?
Those were things I thought about, finally chose the Volvo because I'm tall and the seats are great. The gas isn't. The safety is nearly perfect, though Volvo should get its side impact stats up to excellent. The headrests saved me from whiplash. So I chose personal comfort and well-being over the environment. I wish I hadn't had to make that decision.
Real-world gas mileage might be 1-2 mpg difference. Not a big deal.
If I was purchasing and planned on keeping the car long-term, I'd buy the volvo, personally. Given that I leased, the Honda was still an easy choice since it leased SO much cheaper at the time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I can't get them to lower anything anymore. I think it's final for them and they're kind of get piss off because I always change my mind. They're nice people so I understand. Thanks for all the replies guys.
HOWEVER, if you want to resell or trade it in 3 years from now, a Honda is going to hold its value much better.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
yes, i'm a volvo lover, but don't forget, at the moment, I have no volvo, but i do have an Accord. So I think that should count for some sort of nonbias.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is very annoying and I have had to use a competing website for valuations. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Please use the Help link at the bottom of this page to report it. I'm sure they'd like to take care of it.
Also I have rattles from the rear doors when I play music with a lot of bass. Dealer does not have a fix and said it's abnormal.
Also rattle from the metal plate in the trunk where the speakers are. All you have to do is knock on it and it's present. I hear this rattle every time I go over bumps at low speed. So far no fix for these 2 problems. Dealers hears it and does not have a fix yet. Any input would be great as I'm going to bring it back to the dealer next week. Help!!!
on the lower left windshield used to
hold parking tickets, etc. to test this
theory, try putting some papers in it
(preventing the plastic from resting on
the glass), then get up to speed. if you
don't hear the buzzing, pull the papers
and see if the buzzing returns. if so,
go back to the dealer and tell them to
tighten it up!
Good Luck!
The question is would it in fact be better to pay $700 at a dealer - will there be any REAL difference in quality as clearly Volvo dont make their own brakes anyway. Do Midas and Meineke use really substandard cheap stuff?
Another alternative would be to buy rotors and pads online and have my indy do the job for a bit more than Midas. :confuse:
I bought brembo cross-drilled rotors and, IIRC, mintex pads online for about $250 and did the job myself. The brembos lasted FAR longer than the OEM volvo rotors.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
appreciate any thoughts on solving this problem. Only have 15000 miles on car which otherwise is exemplary machine.
thanks.
ellenbep
Car's got 16,000 miles on it. This just started. (I might have been fiddling with the FM1 vs FM2 vs FM3 modes lately, but that shouldn't be the reason for this, should it?)
Anyone?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks.
It would probably be more cost effective to either add the factory cd changer,or repalce the stereo w/ a Volvo one that has a built in cd player.
there are plenty of sites that discuss Volvo.
the best is probably Swedespeed.
Also, is there a good online outlet for interior replacement parts? The console flap (for lack of a better word) is broken.
I appreciate any information available
Bre
Thank you, I'll check the other lights once it's dark.
Bre
Keep turning it until the display goes dark to turn off the trip computer.
Performance is "brisk", particularly in the mid-range with its 295lbft of torque and I'm getting to love the beast. Comfort and enjoyment.
If you guys don't get this engine in USA you are truly missing out.
Could I do it myself or should I go to a dealer for it?
Thanks in advance
Thanks
Thank you,
Kate
this is a simple repair.
It is unheard of for the Turbo housing to crack.
I would get a second opinion if I were you.
Thanks so much! This is a mechanic that I generally trust, so maybe I am misunderstanding/not relating the situation correctly. Does the Turbo wear out? Or anything around it? Apparently the problem is that if I don't fix it, ultimately the oil that is collecting in the Turbo will start getting injected into the engine. If you have any other thoughts they are most appreciated. Although I don't want to overimpose!
thanks,
Kate