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Nothing wrong w/ looking at a used CPO model.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
But do others have this problem also?
I know its for safety in a crash. But the position just seems wrong. making your neck jet forward. and your head stick out in front of your body. Its the old adage, about holding a bowling ball close to your body. As opposed to holding it out way in front of your body. You know?
what exactly do you mean it goes dead? You mean all the needles drop to zero? But then you say you push the reset button and you can see them again for a second. I'm not sure what that means. Do the needles start working for a second? Or are you only talking about the dash lights at night?
but when you say "volvo repair shop," what are you referring to? If not a dealer, I would try a dealer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 06' S60 and am bringing it in for 7,500 maintenance at 22.5k mileage. Can anyone give me what the typical cost of this maintenance is?
18k service here costs circa GBP380, ($650 ?), from a Volvo main dealer. At least that's what I've been told to expect when my '06 S60 D5 goes in for its second 18k service in Nov.
So ~$50-$60, unless you are using synthetic, which pushes it quite a bit higher.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The trigger button on my 2002 S60 broke off, one of the small plastic connections broke. I'm living with it wrapped in electrical tape!
I'm beginning to believe that goolge and other are paid NOT to provide self help if possible.....Days of searching about multiple bulb failures as well.
There has GOT to be a self help fix over the 400+ dollar repair and rental car fee.
Thank you,
Love my Volvo, Hate the multiple repairs.
Volvo Owners
Chuck
Sacramento Ca
Not true. Volvo has replaced transmissions under extended warranty.
I have NEVER heard of Volvo failing to do this unless there was a clear case of abuse involved.
I HAVE heard of aftermarket warranty companies jerking people around, but Volvo VIP doesn't do that.
It seems simple enough. Catman01
In my opinion, yes.
As far as I know, Ford has nothing to do with it. The vehicles are still completely designed and built by Volvo. So your '98 would have the same issues even if Volvo was still independent. The 240 was one of the most bulletproof cars ever made. Whereas I can understand you wanting something as reliable these days, it just ain't gonna happen.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
thanks for the reply. trying to decide between a pre-owned Volvo or an Acura TL.
As for quality - the Ford influence is not a bad one. Design & build is still all Volvo, (and absolutely so on the '06's), but the current crop are getting some Ford-sourced components; which is sensible. Of course, the trade is two-way and Ford Europe use the Volvo T5 engine in their hottest Focus here in Europe - which is quite a compliment.
Can't comment on Acura as they aren't sold here in Euroland. S60 AWD is not a loved car here. Dealers seem to think the AWD system is not "Volvo Reliable", but that may be due to it's relative rarity. Folk tend to stick with the front-drive models and the superb D5 diesel engine is the big favourite, (but you can't get that, sorry). Why not look at an S80 also...........better turning circle and not massively bigger overall. Thing to do, as always, is to go and talk nicely to a dealer and drive an S60 and an S80, (and the Acura, of course). That will probably help make the choice easier.
As for the old 240's. I fear the days of such bullet-proof build quality are now, sadly, gone - unless you empty the piggy bank for a Rolls Royce Phantom, perhaps ?
Happy New Year when it arrives.
Really do appreciate your comments. Going to test drive an Acura '06, Volvo S60, and will check out a few other Volvo models. We had one terrific Volvo mechanic which is one of the reasons we have driven Volvo's for 40 years. He has retired, and we knew we would be in this position when we could no longer depend on him. He was the best...reliable, efficient, friendly, and reasonable. Oh well, that's life... adjust or ??? A good New Year to you, too.
I can understand the hesitation. However, and I may be mistaken here of course, but it seems the problems surface in those vehicles that are much heavier (XC90) or have much more power (R vehicles). Seems as though the Haldex can't handle that much pressure, so the spline shaft (I think I have the name of the part wrong) has a higher than normal failure rate in those vehicles. If my assessment is correct, then I believe the S60 2.5T AWD and S40 AWD vehicles shouldn't develop that problem very often.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My car only has 55K miles on it, so I think it's more of a maintenance issue and how the car is driven. I just bought it it three weeks ago used and I wasn't expecting the expense (161 pounds), although it's was alot cheaper than replacing the ETM which is what I thought it was.
According to the mechanic when this has to be done it can bring on many symptoms. Mine was making very loud clunking and grinding noises when putting the car in Drive/Reverse especially from cold and over a couple of days it progressively got worse and it did it even after being completely warmed up. My car was also having trouble accelerating over 40 mph and it was getting horrible gas mileage.
After this oil was changed in the gearbox today, I have not had any issues and the car drives like a dream again.
Last of the S60's is now in the showrooms here in Europe. Build of current version has ceased and new model is on the way. If it's like the concept it will be excellent. Very sharp design and has sliding/suicide doors on the rear. Article in the UK Owners mag made it look and sound up there with the very best, (of course).
From what little is shown, I'm liking the new body style, but will be sticking with my '06 S60 until it poops out . . . Volvo will probably be onto yet another new body style by then.
The 2010 S60 looks a million times better than the latest Acura TL -- what where they thinking with that awful rear design??? :confuse:
The headrest was designed to be ergonomic/keep you safe in the event of an accident, so either you have a goofy one or your neck is out of alignment (and should see a chiropractor). I find the immobile headrest comfortable most of the time . . . being female, it definitely causes neck tension if I wear my hair up. This would be one of my few gripes with the S60.
Anyway, this has been a relatively non-stop issue that drives me nuts. My remedy has been to pull the shade back out about 2 inches upon which it quiets down. But, I always have to get it "just right."
Anyone else deal with this issue - and get it resolved?
If an automaker can make head restraints comfortable so folks can use them as "headrests," more power to them.
Nothing personal, but basing a car buying decision on that makes as much sense as the number of cup holders a car has... :confuse:
Now, it COULD be the upper spring mounts, as those also commonly fail, but those are usually more of a heavy clunk when doing extreme maneuvers or potholes at higher speeds. A rattling sound over small bumps at low speeds is typically the endlinks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Volvo Owners Club
The upper mounts are a little tricky if they are just starting to go. What happens is the rubber around where the strut nut is cracks. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes not. At 75k miles on an '01 it is a distinct possibility. I recently bought an '01 V70 with 82k and they were in very bad shape.
Personally, what I would do is check the endlinks and replace if bad. Then see where you are at. If some clunking still persists, then do the upper mounts. A bit more labor instensive, but still not that bad if you have a spring compressor.
As for the service light... ah, now you are testing me. I can never remember the exact process. So here it is.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Seriously, though, a definitive answer is impossible without inspecting the vehicle. Heck, something could be broken, for all we really know. All we can do is give the most likely answer or a starting point.
In any case, I wouldn't recommend a UK forum. While it could be helpful, there are some differences in the cars (such as diesel engines, for example).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S