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Comments
Driving a car with an unbalanced tire will soon create an irregular wear pattern in the tire that will cause the tire to become very noisy as it wears, even if you rebalance the tire, so get the tires properly balanced as soon as possible.
Mr. Vivona
We got about 24/25 on our xmas roadtrip.
I would love to see a Galant / Diamante comparo.
Just today a co-worker asked me to pick her up at a tire dealer where she was dropping her car off to have the tires rotated. When she got her car back I told her about lug nut tightening and offered to check hers (I always have my torque wrench in the trunk). I found nuts tightened from 30 to 142 ft lbs. Had I not retorqued her lug nuts, she would have had brake pulsation problems in 3-4K miles. I get a free lunch for helping her!
This is a problem that will not go away, so the best thing an owner can do is immediately retorque the lug nuts anytime after a mechanic has removed and replaced the wheels. Now the bad news... many other types other work done by a mechanic involves nuts and bolts and they overtighten those, too. I have had oil drain plugs stripped out, grease fittings broken off, etc. over the years. That is why I do all my own work now. And doing my own work I believe contributes greatly to the fact that I can easily get over 100,000 trouble-free miles on a car.
Mr. Vivona
I have a 96 D I just bought 2nd hand here in NZ. I seem to have the following issues that I would be grateful if someone could throw some light on.
1) Incredibly huge amount of tyre roar at about 50knph - I first thought it may be the bearings but the dealer insists it is the tyres which incidentally are Dunlop Mud & Snow tyres - Any ideas???
2)The radio antenna is embedded in the rear windscreen - it is not very effective in picking up the radio stations I most often listen to and they continually fade and are scratchy. Also because the car is a Japanese import I had to fit a FM band expander to the radio which means all stations jump by 12MHz in the frequency displayed - should I simply fit a normal antenna to the radio??
3) One of the speakers (Right Driver side front)is awfully scratchy - upon opening it up I found the voice coil detached from the paper cone - should I just glue this back to the cone or what??
Many thanks for any tips... Cheers
p.s. How does your glovebox work? Does it slowly extend to the fully open position no matter how empty or full it is? The old box on my car dropped immediately as if it had no damping. The new one drops slowly to the halfway open mark and then stops. You have to push down on it a little to get it to drop all the way open. Granted this was with nothing in it. My buddy told me it does have a spring but give it a little time to break in. He felt it was operating normally. I'm just curious if it is. Slowly extending to the halfway mark is at least better then dropping down and bangin my knees
An interesting side note: the service lady said they service quite a few Diamantes because the owners tend to hold on to them longer. She also said they are fiercely loyal to the car, often trading one D in for another. This tells me the D is a reliable car that holds up well. I just hope mine does.
Haven't ever used this phrase but I indeed was a happy camper as I left the dealer knowing that my problem had been solved. I was concerned about the resale potential with a large blemish like a head gasket on record, but I do like the car and had no intention of selling it. At 17k I pulled into the garage and as I was admiring the Burma black paint up close I noticed a smell much like the first one I had from the same area under the hood. To the dealer I go with a heavy heart and after dye they discover the gasket is leaking again.
What can a guy do?..I got all the assurences from the dealer that the
problem was probably a faulty gasket. So they replaced the gasket again and about all I had to offer was asking that they confirm that the head was not warped and that the block was flat. Little did I know, but the dealer had contacted the factory and they were instructed to replace both head gaskets in anticipation that the 'good' one would soon fail. So now , finally the car is tight and with only 17k and the fact that I do like the car and the idea of trying to sell a vehicle for any value that has had three head gaskets installed,I drive off into happy motoringville...that is until two weeks ago and yes you guessed it, another head gasket leaking...at 36k I am under the powertrain warranty, but what, other than checking for flat surfaces and making sure the tech allows the cure of the sealent can a person do? I mean I do like the car..sort of.....thanks for any help.....T
ANTENNA - I am not totally familiar with the antenna arrangement on the 96. If the antenna is only in the rear window glass, then reception will not be as good as with a regular rod antenna. Be sure to check all connections before adding a separate antenna. Your problem may merely be a bad connection. Don't forget to check the film wiring on the surface of the glass. Also, if there is a metallic window tint on the glass, that could be causing your problem.
If your Diamante did not ever have a rod antenna, you will have to drill the mounting hole. Remove the trunk lining and check for mounting clearance before deciding where to drill. Be sure to paint over the bare metal edge of the new hole to prevent rust. You can usually get motorized antennas at many auto parts stores for less than $50. Non-motorized antennas are even cheaper and easier to install. Remove the wiring from the window glass antenna and connect it to the new rod antenna. Make sure you use coaxial antenna cable for the entire run.
SPEAKER NOISE - If the cone has come loose from the voice coil, you can re-glue it with Elmer's white glue. Make sure the cone is centered so the voice coil is not pulled off center. Another common cause of speaker rattle is disintegration of the foam surrounding the cone. You can get replacement foam with an instructional video at www.wooferrepair.com for about $20.
Mr. Vivona
As to the glove box, on both my 1999 and 2002 the glove box drops freely when opened. I am pretty sure the 2003 works the same. If you glove box is openly slowly, it may be rubbing against something under the dash. Check the glove box of another 2003 at the dealer to see how it acts.
Mr. Vivona
Neither the head gasket nor the cam cover gasket should be failing unless the mechanic is doing something wrong during installation or there is a problem with the surfaces that the gasket is sealing. If it is the cam cover gasket, a clogged PCV valve (though not likely) can build up crankcase pressures and force out oil.
You need to have a good mechanic diagnose and fix the problem for good. This is not a common problem for a Diamante.
Mr. Vivona
that, along with the inlet manifold, air intake and rocker cover gaskets were ordered. This will be done at a different dealer and they seem to be genuinely concerned about the history of repairs. So,I will pay close attention to the checks of the surfaces and hope that the techs do the job right. I really do like this car. Did the XM radio
install a few months ago..a real pleasure to have..T
darn frameless windows!
is there a PERMANENT fix for this minor annoying deal?
(if this is my biggest gripe in two diamantes....)
I am answering this without having the manual handy, but I seem to recall that the weatherstrip is held in place by clips and grooves. If that is the case, try using a black automotive silicone glue to glue the weatherstrip in place. I have had excellent luck with that type of glue for weatherstrips. Remove the weatherstrip in the area that comes loose, thoroughly clean the weatherstrip and contact area with alcohol, then dry it. Then apply an even bead of silicone on the underside of the weatherstrip and push everything back together. Clean up any silicone that shows. Don't apply any stress to the glued area until it has had a day or two to dry.
Also, see if the weatherstrip is being pulled out of place by the action of the window when you close the door. Perhaps the window glass needs adjusting.
Mr. Vivona
As for the rear defroster, has anyone noticed how slow it is? It takes a long time to clear frost from the window. My Tiburon's has the whole window cleared up in the time it takes the D to clear 1/8. I've heard Japanese cars have slow defrosters but this is a little sad.
At 60,000 miles you also want to change the timing belt, air cleaner element, spark plugs, ignition cables, coolant and drive belts. Have them inspect the distributor cap and rotor, brake components, CV joint boots, suspension parts, fuel system and exhaust system, replacing anything that they find defective. That way you are up to date with all services and can then just keep the car up to date from that point on with the service recommendations listed in your owner's manual.
To assure the longevity of you leather seats, clean with Lexol cleaner and condition with Lexol conditioner every 3 months. Lexol's vinyl protectant, called Vinylex, is your best choice for keeping the interior vinyl looking great. Remember that only the parts of the seats that touch your back and bottom are leather and need Lexol. The backs of the front seats, all headrests, the door trim and all other parts that may look like leather are actually vinyl and need Vinylex.
If you want to save a bundle on your 60,000 service, consider buying all your parts from a dealer that sells online at wholesale and just having your local dealer do the labor. Check www.parts.com to find a Mitsubishi wholesale parts dealer. Before doing so, find out if your dealer will have issues with installing parts from another source. As an alternate, you may try printing out and showing them the wholesale prices you can get the parts for and negotiating the same parts deal with your local dealer.
And, anytime you have anybody touch your wheels (tire rotation, brakes, etc.), assume they will overtorque the lug nuts and retorque them according to my article at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm
Good luck with your Diamante!
Mr. Vivona
THX
In addition to thoroughly vacuuming and cleaning all interior fabrics, including the headliner, try spraying the headliner and all carpeting with Fabreeze. Test a small area first to make sure that the Fabreeze doesn't discolor the fabric. I don't think Fabreeze works on leather, vinyl or plastic. Read the label.
For the leather surfaces, use Lexol cleaner and conditioner. For the vinyl and plastic surfaces, use Vinylex.
Also, if the smell of smoke is coming from your A/C ducts, try running the A/C on high and spraying some Lysol into the air intake, but be careful to not get any on your paint.
Driving with all windows open and the A/C on fresh air can also help air out the car and maybe take some of the smoke with it.
The antilock brake warning light is on steady and the traction control light flashes until I push the traction control off button, then both lights stay on steady. Can you put jumper wire in the scan plug to obtain a code as to which wheel sensor is a problem? Where is this plug and what code should I be looking for??
I should have written that the car in message 1101 is a 2000 D with 51,000 miles on it.
One disappointment: the cargo net's attachment point broke off! The plastic hook screws on a plastic stud. This stud snapped off inside the hook! So now the cargo net is useless (in all honestly, they put the cargo net in a stupid spot to begin with. It should be in the middle of the trunk, not right up against the latch). Anyone know how to fix it? I'm sure its under warranty but its a stupid thing to have to take in.
Oh yea, I encountered first hand the slow wipers on Friday. This car was not designed for Florida's downpours. I slowed down to 30 mph and pressed myself up against the steering wheel and still couldn't see the road in front of me. The only gauge I had that I was still in my lane was the headlights from oncoming traffic. Very very dangerous! Shame on Mitsu for giving such an expensive car pitiful wipers! I'm gonna ask my Mitsu buddy if there is any way I can install the better wiper motor from the Lancer or any other Mitsu product.
On that page, click on "How We Make Cars". There also is a link to "How We Make Engines".
Mr. Vivona
The best way to read a code is to get a code reader designed to handle OBDII codes, plus codes for ABS and other systems. Read all about OBDII at http://www.actron.com/ but I do not believe any of their readers will read ABS codes. You will have do web searches for "ABS code reader" to find one that reads the ABS codes and make sure it includes the Mitsubishi Diamante.
You can check standard codes on the Actron site. Mitsubishi specific codes are listed in the Diamante service manual. If I get a chance to look, I will let you know the ABS codes.
Also check out http://patriot.net/~bmcgin/scanner.html for more information on reading codes.
You may also want to try the $25 annual service at http://www.alldatadiy.com/ which will tell you if you can retrieve codes any way other than with a code reader or scan tool. It might also tell you how to troubleshoot your ABS system.
Rather than try to read a code, you can check an ABS sensor by disconnecting it and putting a sensitive AC voltmeter across the terminals coming FROM the sensor (not going TO the computer). You do this with the car turned off and up on jack stands. Spinning the wheel should result in a few millivolts of AC voltage. Compare the amount at each wheel to see if one is different.
Let me know what you find. In the meantime, I'll try to get some time in my hectic schedule to look up the ABS codes.
Mr. Vivona
Do you guys think Mitsu is just going to let this car die and not replace it or is there a chance they may reinvent their luxury car? If they do redesign it, when can we expect a new one? The fact Mitsu recognizes the loyalty of Diamante owners should give them enough incentive to keep selling the car. I just hope they don't give up like Mazda did with the Millenia. There is a place for inexpensive "executive" class luxury cars. Not everyone wants to spend big bucks for a European nameplate that is often small and more oriented towards a firm sporty ride.
There are too many ABS codes to list here, so if you get any post them and I will look them up for you.
Mr. Vivona
The Diamante is like the current Acura RL(its just dated) and not new and refined enough to compete with the likes of the Acura TL and Infiniti G35.
2006 Mitsubishi Diamante: Redesign on Project America platform shared by the Eclipse, Endeavor, and Galant.
-----------------------------------
This is not unlike the ES300, TL and I35 being based on the platforms of the Camry, Accord and Maxima. Manufacturers are getting better about using one platform to create different cars with different characteristics. The 2006 Diamante is supposed to be on a stretched version of the Project America platform.
It is likely that the production of the 2006 Diamante will shift to the American plant. For now, I think that the Australia plant produces better quality so I hope the American plant does a better job by 2006, or production stays with Australia. The only downside with Australia is the on-again, off-again attitude Mitsubishi Japan has had in the past regarding the future of producing cars in Australia. That probably has a lot to do with Mitsubishi Motors America being low-key about the current Diamante. Switching to American production would give them more confidence in promoting the car.
Mr. Vivona
I also had a question concerning the windshield washer. Mine takes a real long time to start spraying and it doesn't seem to have a very strong spray. The wipers make about 2 whole sweeps (I'm talking up/down - up/down) of the windshield before the spray comes out and then when it does it seems weak. Is this normal or is my washer just too weak?
Thank you for your time on looking up ABS codes.
I will try your suggestion and post back to you my findings on Sunday. We are turning this car in for a Galant GTS this week. We have had 3 D's a 93 wagon, 1997, 2000, and want somthing different despite great deals on 03 D's.
n6547t
When I asked the Mitsu service how this kind of problem could happen, their answer was something like 'well, these things sometimes just start leaking at around this mileage, nothing you can do about it really but replace the rack', or something to that effect.
As to the leather, what color do you have? Both of my Diamantes have the gray interior and do not show any discoloration, with the oldest being 5 years old. A tan seat will probably show dirt easier. Watch out for black pants or belts that get wet. I once found black marks on the bottom of the seatback and traced it to a black leather belt that I was wearing one day when I got caught in the rain. The rain caused the belt to bleed its black dye. I was able to remove it with Lexol Cleaner.
I recommend cleaning the leather seats every three months with Lexol Leather Cleaner, followed with Lexol Leather Conditioner. Spot clean and condition any discoloration found in between regular treatments. The leather surfaces are the parts of the seat you body touches, but not the bottom of the back of the seat back or the outside sections of the cushion sides. The headrests, console cover, door "pleather" and all other interior surfaces are vinyl or plastic and should be treated with Vinylex.
Mr. Vivona
If the leak is from a hose, that is the cheapest repair. A leaky pump will be the next most expensive repair. A leaking rack is the most expensive repair. So just replacing the rack is not appropriate unless it has been diagnosed that the rack is leaking. Racks usually leak from the internal seals and drip out of the ends. If it turns out to be the rack, you can buy one at wholesale at one of the Mitsubishi dealers that lists on www.parts.com. You'll have to have a dealer install it unless you are mechanically skilled yourself.
You can continue to just add power steering fluid and put off the repair, but check to see what is getting wet by the leak. You don't want a leaking hose to be dripping down on a brake caliper, or worse yet the exhaust system. The leak won't get better, and probably will get worse, so if you are going to keep the car, consider replacing the leaking part now, not later.
If it is definitely the rack, consider trying a leak stop product like http://www.prestone.com/products/43.htm to see if it helps. These types of products are a last ditch effort to put off a repair, so don't just assume it is the rack and use the leak stop. If it is only a hose or fitting, it is best to replace the leaking part.
Mr. Vivona
Thanks again,
chris
Vivona, thanks for your insight. Your help is always most appreciated. My car has gray leather by the way. I was able to clean the black markings off the seat. I think it was dye that rubbed off of black pants. I just hope it won't get that dirty under normal circumstances.