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Mitsubishi Diamante



  • gtroopgtroop Posts: 85
    abes Aug 4, 2001 1:38pm

    Does anyone have an answer to the problem in the link? I am having trouble with my sunroof buttons on a 95 Diamante LS. It seems that the buttons no longer perform the functions pictured on them. I sometimes have to use the tilt open button to shut the roof and the close buttons to open. It seems there is no method to the madness, any help would be appreciated.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    I hope the new Diamante/Galant are not styled after the Endeavor. That thing is a sales bomb. We have only sold 4 or 5 since they were introduced.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    'new' Diamante is a mild facelift only. New front end and some shifting in the interior console bits.

    Galant is all new.
  • white02d1white02d1 Posts: 1
    As the title says this would be my 1st time on this discussion. I recently purchased a 2002 Diamante with 12,800 on the odometer and would like some input from other owners. I will say that I have owned Mitsu vehicles in the past and have had good overall experiences, I owned a 93 3000 GT SL and then a 96 VR4 but when my family grew the sport car had to go.
     After reading through some of the post on this board, I have gathered some info for issues I am experiencing such the tires (Eagles GA) and the vibrations.
    1.) I read on previous post about balancing and the possibility the tires may need replacing all together. My question I guess would be should I check with my local dealer wether or not they have that GSP9700 (or something like that) to balance tires or should I just get the tires balanced and rotated without mention of the vibrations and noise in order to see what they can find without trying to sell me some tires?

    2.) If the tires are found to be defective and I decide to replace them does anyone have any opinions on the Continental ContiExtreme Contact, I read on Mr. Vivona's earlier message about some of his choices but these are less expensive and seem to be better rated or surveyed by the Tire Rack folks. On top of that has anyone plus sized their car and has it affected their vehicle in a negative manner?? I am considering either sticking to the 16 in or going up to a 17" wheel.

    3.) Is it normal for these cars to have a hesitation or slow tranny shift between 3rd and 4th gear? Is this something which may be addressed by re programming or is it a mechanical, drop to the ground only solution??

    4.) Finally can anyone recommend where to buy a front end bra for these cars, the dealer tells me I have a 4 week wait which I find hard to believe and I'm about to hit the road on my first road trip.

    Thank you all for any help you can provide, I truly hope this vehicle works out. I got a good deal( basically $1/mile on the odometer) and want to take care of any problems early in order to enjoy my investment.
  • dimasciodimascio Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2002 Diamante last Sept. The car has about 4000 miles now with no problems except for an irritating noise/rattle that sounds like something maybe internal to the shock absorber or absorbers. It is only noticeable at low speeds, say 20 mph, on very small undulations in the road surface. It is a dull thumping noise like something is hitting the body pan or frame. I think it is located in the front, but the dealer says they can't find anything wrong. It is annoying but tolerable. Anyone else have this symptom?

    This makes 12 Mitsubishis that I have owned, all of which have been outstanding automobiles. This is my second Diamante, the other was a 97. I also own a 2000 Mirage DE and a 2000 Mirage LS, both great cars.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    dimascio -- Your noise may indeed by the sound of the valving in the shock absorbers. Small road undulations can make a shock give out a faint "doodle-doodle-doodle" sound - not really a rattle. A loose sway bar mounting or loose other suspension bolt could also cause such a noise. But do not let a mechanic touch any suspension bolts with an impact wrench. They should only be checked and tightened with a hand torque wrench to the specified torque called for in the service manual. You could also have them check the wheel bearing end play and ball joint play using a dial indicator, provided your dealer has a mechanic that knows how to do such tests.

    Before you try anything else, you may want to wrap some peel-and-stick foam weatherstripping around the power steering hose that runs between the passenger side of your engine and the inside fender wall. You will see it by looking down towards the serpentine belt area. If the hose is bouncing and hitting the timing belt cover it might make the noise you describe. Move the hose back and forth and see if it hits anything and wrap the foam weatherstripping in that area. It's a long-shot but an inexpensive thing to try before trying anything else.

    I seem to remember someone else describing a faint thumping sound at low speeds, but I don't recall if they ever posted what solved the problem. I would be interested in what you find so I can add your experience to my personal "knowledge base".

    By the way, I noted you have owned 12 Mitsubishis. My family has owned 7 and they all have been outstanding. We currently have a 1999 and 2002 Diamante and they both have been excellent just like the Galants, Eclipses and Mirage owned previously.

    Mr. Vivona
  • mcaparsomcaparso Posts: 7

    I would appreciate some help with my newest Diamante Problem. I have a 2001 LS with 46,000 miles on it. Recently I have been hearing a squeeling from the rear of the car when driving at slow (30 and below) speeds in the city. The noises are very easy to hear when you are riding next to buildings or other cars. I took it to the dealer, showed them how to reproduce the problem and I was told the rear brakes were 'glazed' and were the source of the noise.

    My problem with their diagnosis is the following:
    1. How come the make noise when the brakes are NOT applied?
    2. Why is the noise not more accessive when the brakes are applied.
    3. Why do the brakes otherwise still feel/operate normal?

    If anyone can assist with what this noise might be, I would be more then grateful. I have an extended warranty on the car and I was hoping this failure may be covered. I was told I have just about 50% of the rear pads left, and I do only mostly highway driving.

  • kozloduevkozloduev Posts: 5
    Since I have bought my Mitsu on October 2002 I can hear a loud rambling noise upon braking slowly, especially when I press the brake pedal hard and then slightly but not totally release it. The mechanic said that front brake pads must be replaced in order to get rid of that noise. But the front brake pads are only 70% worn. I'd appreciate any suggestions.Ray K.
  • aedge3aedge3 Posts: 3
    I bought my 2002 LS in December. So far things have gone pretty well. Only "problem" I had was a shuddering of the brakes. The service dept machined down one of my front rotors because it was slightly warped...I guess I felt that they should have replaced it but that's really the only problem I've had with the car.

    Annoyances are another thing. I hate the tranny! It shifts annoyingly at the weirdest times and won't down-shift fairly often if I trounce the accelerator. My trunk sometimes won't open with the release that's in the door or with the keyless remote and I have to use the key...most of the time they work...strange! When I need to get up and go it sounds like the engine is revving at 9,000 rpm even though I know it's not.

    But the biggest annoyance of all is the horn! It sounds like the horn on a Vespa! Does anyone here know where I can get a replacement horn that sounds like a nice, luxury car horn?

  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    i too picked up a 2002 d in december...i traded my 2001 d.

    reagrding the transmission, the d tranny is 'adaptive', it adjusts to the drivers style.

    i can attest to this.....with each of our two diamantes (My leadfoot wife drives them 95% of the time), i have noticed a vast improvment in kickdown and acceleration over time. sometimes too, it ishow the car feels on a particular day. but now it doesn't take much to get the car to kick down immediately and smoothly and accelerate very well.

    my adivce is to start driving very aggresively and over time the tranny will learn your style and hasten the downshifts and hold gears longer.

    if that doesn't do it, get a 2004 Diamante with manumatic shifting!
  • gbrown17gbrown17 Posts: 2
    7-27-02 I purchased 2002 D-LS with 4 miles on it. The first thing I noticed was the strange shift,I took it back and they told me it was the memory for two drivers and they reset it. With in a month the crise control went out and I took it back still complaining of the transmission. Cruise control replaced. The car continued to have shifting problems. It was finally torn down and they decided it needed shims. The car continued to have problems,with the test drive, next they replaced the valve body three months ago.Two days ago my 11 month old car with 10,000 miles on is setting at the dealer. We have requested Mitsubishi to repurchase our car. They want to just put another transmission it like the defect we already have.In addition to the transmission the brakes are keeping my wheels black with dust, the climate control does not work properly, the slow speed of the wiper speeds up with the car speed,and I could go on. The car is beautiful but so so much for beauty if it is on the side of the road. Our loaner car provided was a New Diamante the last time, which had the exact same shifting patterns. Basically the 2nd to 3rd shift is stretched out then a hard loud shift which will jolt you.Then it began vibrating at stops and starts at idle. Next thing when I would excelerate the car would act like it was in neutral and finally after going to 5 rpm it would slam into gear. I am very upset. The car has depreciated $9,000. They have had it more than I have. Would I buy another, NO. I have never ever experienced anything like this in my life. I keep a car 7-10 years. this one car has given me more grief than any in 30 years of buying cars.I have always owned Honda & Nissan. I looked for several months before I bought this car. I thought it too would be a great car. I wanted more luxary than the others offered. Now it is up to Mitsubishi. WE shall see how well they stand behind their cars. Anyone interested in the outcome may email me at
  • gbrown17gbrown17 Posts: 2
    read 957 posting. Get your car to the dealer. My transmission is burned up.The fluid instead of being pinkish red is black and full of gritty material. Your car has the same symptoms mine stared with.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    we have had close to 35,000 trouble free miles on ours, sorry to hear about your car's issues.
  • marak88marak88 Posts: 57

    I was driving my 99 diamante (42 K miles) on the high way cruising about 70-75 mph, when all the sudden I started feeling hesitation, I pulled over and the car started to really sputter and white smoke was comming out of the back like there was no tommorow, the check engine light (service engine soon light) came on and then the car died, I looked at the oil stick and there was no anti-freeze sign being mixed with the oil, then I looked at the level of the anti-freeze level and it seemed to be OK, the car never overheated, I was able restart the car (got alot of white smoke) and I was able to drive it back home but it seems to be wanting to die unless I keep the engine RPM above 3000 or so ( no skmoke when the car is Idling high), I made it home and afew hours later I restarted it, it started so easy and no white smoke and it was idling so smooth, any one have any idea what just went wrong, help please.

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    You could have a problem with a stuck egr valve or oxygen sensor giving off bad readings. Have the codes read by your dealer. Whatever malfunction occurred will be stored in the memory since your engine light came on.
  • I just purchased a 2003 Diamante LS and am a first
    time Mitsubishi owner. If anyone has any "tips"
    or knows any "must do's" , your information
    would be greatly appreciated. I've read lots of
    the info.posted on this site (and some of it
    scares me a little!!). I hope it will be a reliable car (I've previously owned Honda's). So
    far I love it - only problem noted is a "splotch"
    of paint on the hood. thanks
  • marak88marak88 Posts: 57
    I'll have both EGR valve and Oxygen sensor checked.

    thanks for the input
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Brake pads are lightly touching the disks even when not braking, so a glazed pad could conceivably be the cause of your noise. Also, the pads have a special metal tab that makes contact with the disk when the pads are worn down to make a noise to tell you when the pads need replacing. Another cause could be a piece of road debris (pebble, nail, etc.) that has become lodged between the disk and a stationary component.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    If you are hearing a groaning noise, sort of like gruuu, gruuu, gruuu just prior to stopping, that is most like caused by a glazed brake pad. A panic stop during the first 500 miles can glaze a pad (this may have happened during a prior test drive before you bought the car). If you have less than 12,000 miles on the car your dealer may replace the pads under warranty. Do not let them turn the rotors.

    Also, anytime a mechanic touches the brakes he has to remove and replace the wheel. Make sure they use hand tools to remove and replace the wheel lug nuts and that they use a hand torque wrench only to torque the lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs. in a crisscross pattern. If the mechanic uses an air powered impact wrench he will grossly overtighten the lug nuts and warp your rotors, causing braking pulsation about 5,000 miles later. Check out my article at
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Many makes install quiet horns to meet noise ordinances, particularly when selling in a variety of countries. However, aftermarket replacement horns are available, such as this one from JC Whitney You may also find loud aftermarket horns at local auto parts stores. Just make sure the replacement horn doesn’t draw much more amperage than the factory original horn.

    Your trunk may not be reliably releasing due to the “Locked-Unlocked” switch on the trunk latch not being fully in the Unlocked position. You could also have a binding cable that runs from the latch to the trunk actuator, or a defective trunk actuator relay or motor. The actuator is located behind the trim panel on the left side of the trunk, near the power antenna motor. If your Diamante is still under warranty, have the dealer replace the trunk actuator relay or motor. Since the problem is intermittent, they may replace both the relay and motor rather than spend time trying to figure which one is intermittent.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Diamante. According to the detailed reliability database reported on the Diamante is a very reliable car with no significant issues such as you mention. I suspect your dealer is not providing good service.

    Transmission problems can be caused by electrical, hydraulic or mechanical problems. Only after checking all electrical components (sensors, switches, solenoids, computer and interconnecting harnesses) and measuring hydraulic pressures to rule out problems there should a mechanic attempt to replace any internal parts. I doubt the dealer really did all the tests. Just checking for a trouble code is not enough. If you haven’t already done so, ask for a meeting with the factory zone service manager. Perhaps another Mitsubishi dealer has a better trained mechanic.

    By the way, it is a normal feature of the Diamante to have the first speed setting of the wipers speed up with car speed. This is called “speed-variable wipers” and helps in light drizzles where you need intermittent wiping when driving slowly and faster wiping as you speed up and more rain hits your windshield.

    Mr. Vivona
  • czibertczibert Posts: 38
    I haven't been around for a while but I have a question for those in the know re repairs. I just had the AT gasket/seal replaced last week (it had somehow been damaged and was leaking) and thus got new AT fluid. It is going back in on Weds for a timing belt replacement. The dealer wants to do the full 60K service (I am at close to 160K), but that is an additional $459 on top of the $399 for the timing belt service. Is this particularly worth my money? The car has been very well maintained over the years (I have all records from the window sticker forward), and only recently have lost track of the regular maintenance schedule.

    Thanks for your help!

    '93 ES
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I would see what the 60k service entails. They usually include a tranny flush, but you wouldn't need that since you just got your tranny fixed. That should take at least $100 off the price of the service. They usually also include some sort of fuel system cleaning. I would forego that unless you are encountering hesitation. In reality, the only thing you really may need is a new air filter/fuel filter/spark plugs. If any of these have been replaced recently, than you don't need it and shouldn't be charged for it. If you do need those items, than I wouldn't pay them more than 180 to do it, if that. Good luck!
  • czibertczibert Posts: 38
    Jonathan-- The 60K is supposed to include checking "every moving part on the car" (in dealer-speak) including all new fluids and all new filters, they briefly mentioned spark plugs (I couldn't tell if that was included), something about hoses (I don't think replacements), and checking various other things. Since I just had the transaxle serviced I said I didn't want that nor the Oil Lube and Filter (had that done at the same time). That only knocked $66 off the price. The timing is the big thing I need to do, but I don't know how recently the rest has been done. I will have to go through the recs carefully, and ask them for a printout of exactly what the 60K entails. I had something similar (though much less costly) done at Mark Mitsubishi in Phoenix about 1-2 years ago, but I can't find the docs. I should call them.

    I wish Mitsu did it like they do at Infiniti for my parents. All records are stored by VIN on their national network so no matter where the work was done or when (goes back to 1990) they can pull it up.

    Thanks (any more comments apprecaited as well),

    '93 ES
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    czibert-- Keep in mind that periodic services are a major source of revenue for a dealer, more so than selling new cars. Many dealers say they are "checking everything" but that doesn't really happen.

    I would consult your owner's manual for the recommended services. There are recommendations for regular service and for severe service, such as driving most of the time in hot, dusty or stop-and-go conditions. I would definitely have the recommended services done according to your driving conditions. Most of the other things a dealer says they are doing are easy for you to do yourself, such as oiling the door hinges, checking fluid levels, looking for fluid leaks, inspecting the tires, inspecting CV Joint boots, etc. Even changing the air filter is very easy to do.

    If anything they are going to do involves removing a wheel, make sure they only use hand tools (not an air impact wrench) to remove and replace the wheel lug nuts and that they hand torque the nuts to 80 ft. lbs. in a criscross pattern.

    Mr. Vivona
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Ask yourself, "Do I really need all these things looked at?" and "what haven't I had serviced?" If your answer is no to the first question, than I would only pay for the timing belt. If you figure out you need a new fuel filter/air filter/spark plugs, than I would ask them to simply replace those items and ask what the charge would be for that. The 30k/60k service is an easy way for the dealer to charge a high price for extra services you don't really need. You can do almost all the checking yourself. Do you really think they inspect every "moving part" closely? They probably give your car a quick look over and charge you $200 for their "time" when nothing was really accomplished by the looking. Just determine what you really want done to the car and ask them for the price to do just those items. They won't be too happy but at least they will know you can't be fooled into buying unneeded stuff.
  • rsr742002rsr742002 Posts: 64
    Diamantes are known for poor assembly quality and awful resale values. My advice, if I may: cut your losses and get rid of it while you can.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    not sure what you have to substantiate that last post for assembly qulaity. Recently Diamante resale has not been stellar, I'll give you that, but that has almost all to do with the same body style being in production since for that, I find its a great way to get a lightly used good quality car; to get a really nice car for not a lot of money.
  • kozloduevkozloduev Posts: 5
    Mr. Vinona. Thank you very much for your suggestions. I admire your deep knowledge of the subject. As for the brake pads I will replace the front ones when they get worn out substantially and I beleive the noise will be reduced or totally gone. Thanks again.
  • My car now is a Nissan Altima and I was going to purchase a new one. However, I have been in a rental Galant for the past week, liked it, but decided the Diamante is more what I have in mind. In looking at the 2002 model, depreciation is significant, but much less cost up front, it won't be such a factor for this model. Very concerned in purchasing a new one because of this. Seems those with comments on this car either love or hate them. Any remarks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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