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Comments
1. Shifting from park to reverse when the engine is at the fast idle setting (this may also happen when shifting into the forward gears too - I haven't tried this yet.)
2. When slowing less than 30 mph, the transmission will sometimes shift somewhat abruptly into a lower gear.
I am only commenting about this because the transmission at all other times shifts very, very smoothly.
I asked the Toyota technician to review the shifting problem several months ago and was told that the updated software had been installed and that the transmission was functioning normally.
Our car features the V6 engine with the traction control option.
I suspect that Toyota is aware of this "problem" and will correct this in future production models. I don't know if the problem can be easily corrected in the cars already produced. If a software update could remedy this problem, then the fix would be relatively easy and result in many satisfied customers. However, if a re - engineering of the mechanical components is necessary, then a fix for the current owners is unlikely.
I will be interested to see if Consumer Reports documents the abrupt shifting in this vehicle. I believe that Toyota uses Consumer Reports as an independent, valued reviewer of their cars and attempts to correct any identified deficiencies. Maybe they monitor this board too. If yes, that would be great.
Overall, the car is excellent. However, as the quality of manufacture improves, and the ride characteristics are further refined, the short comings become more noticeable.
It doesn't have the traction control ... and I don't notice any abrupt downshifts. But I do wonder if what I'm noticing has to do with the "intelligent" mode having a "no-so-intelligent" phase to go through during warm-up.
I'm also trying to focus on a slight "shuddering", almost feels like an engine miss, that is perceptible at low speeds during warm-up. Could almost be mistaken for the "set" type vibration caused by tires(Bridgestone here) until they warm-up. After a few miles of warmup I don't seem to notice the shuddering anymore. The harshness in the shifting goes away even sooner after getting under way.
Somehow I'm also wondering if the harshness problem would go away if the initial idle was lower. I wouldn't idle a car from a cold start (esp. a V6) at that many rpm's ordinarily. If I let the warm-up go three or so minutes then the harshness doesn't seem to be there at all. The idle speed has dropped even further back by then.
Perhaps I need to ask the service departement about it.
Concerning another post, while I personally don't feel the 98-02 Corolla was a significant improvement on the 93-97 edition, I think the two are similar in tactile quality, and there wasnt any (to my knowledge) decontenting evident as there was when the 4th gen Camry was redesigned.
Hope that all made sense.
~alpha
: )
Mackabee
Personally, look great but I prefer cloth.
Thank you sir.
I sucked it up and dealt with Car and Driver's choosing the LX V6 Accord over the Camry SE V6 and Altima SE V6 in their December comparo- After all, I tried to reason with myself, it was a family sedan comparo, and value is paramount to many families, so it made sense that the Accord LX eeked out a victory by the narrowest of margins. BUT that was a comparison of V6 models at a specific price point, and Ten Best covers the whole range of the model line.
I can't see how the 20k Altima 2.5S w/ auto, or the Camry LE would be chosen AFTER the older, smaller, blandly styled, lower power Accord. For all intensive purposes, the 4cylinders are more representative of these models, since they sell in such higher quantities... I want a comparo FROM ANY MAGAZINE on the bread and butter models. Enough about the V6... not all of us can afford those!!! Not to belabour the point, but I'd much rather have a 4cly Altima or Camry over the Accord. (and Car and Driver cited a 10% savings on the Accord versus its main competitors... UM, not for the 4cylinder models.)
~alpha
; )
Mack
I ordered a Camry LE automatic with ABS, from a dealer a while back. Now, the car has been built, is on it's way to the dealership. The dealer agreed to sell me the car for $500 over dealer cost.
But now that the car is on it's way, the dealer cost he gave me is seems a little high, so I asked him to send me the factory to dealer invoice sheet with the cost breakdown. Which he did.
Here is the dealer cost on the sheet:
Vehicle Base Model: $17,127.00
ABS: $258
--------------------------------
Total Accessories = $258 (the ABS)
Destination Charge = $485
TDA = $357
Gasoline = $6
Dealer Holdback = $396
Whsl. Financil Reserve = $198
----------------------------------
Total = $18,827
Forget the $6 gasoline charge, I don't care. But HOLY smoke, I thought dealer holdback is the money Deal gets from the manufacturer for selling the car, and since this is an factory order, this is pure profit. So why is he CHARGING ME? I am good enough to let him keep it, and not even asking him to caugh it up. But why is he turning around and charging me? Is he trying to pull a fast on, and make double profit?
Also, what's this whsl. Financial Reserve of $198? Why should I be charged. Please let me know. This is adding up to be almost $600 worth of price that I can not justify. Is he trying to rip me off?
Somebody help me please! I won't sign on the doted line until I get some damned good reasons why I should pay hold back.
Guess it just goes to show that you have to negotiate an actual price, rather than a "$500 over invoice". Too much wiggle room.
~alpha
Technically, the dealer gets this 3% back from Toyota, but if you follow the Inconsiderate Buyers forum, you'll see that dealers are loathe to pass this along to the customer, even for cars ordered by the customer.
You still got a great deal; buy the car and enjoy!
P.S. Your price is almost exactly what I paid for my '97 Camry LE 4-cylinder with then-standard ABS and optional floor mats nearly 5 YEARS AGO (2/1/97). My price also was $500 over invoice.
Basically, I am encouraging buyers to obtain multiple quotes for a car, if time permits. Then, with that information you can successfully negotiate a competitive price based upon availability. Most sales managers know the sales prices of the vehicles sold by their competitors.
Although a buyer may think that s/he negotiated the deal of the century, the sales price may have be determined by factors not included in the "invoice pricing."
By the way, I do not work in the automobile industry.
Toyota does impose thier regional fee's into our invoice at no profit to the daelers. The fee can run $200 to $2000 depending on the model." Is that true? If it is, how can Toyoya compete with Honda in this region?
By the way, another question. How much did you guys pay for dealer fee (or administration fee or some name else)? Around $50 or $500?
Truckdude1-
: )
Mackabee
: )
Mackabee
I was shocked to find the 2002 "old" Accord prevailed in the December 2001 Car and Driver showdown with the new Altima and Camry:
http://www.forbes.com/2001/11/30/1203flint.html
1) Rattle in the middle of the dash
The problem seems to be caused by cross wind. High speeds alone do not cause it, but on a windy day it rattles alot. This problem has been referenced by Jeffyjc at #1958 and Ahmike at #2367.
I checked the air filter behind the glove box and everything is rock solid. The sound actually seems to come from below the A/C buttons left of the glove box. Any solutions?
2) Thud in the trunk when starting or stopping
Sometimes when I hit the gas or the breaks I hear a light thud in the trunk. As if a tennis ball was rolling around. This has been referenced by Fickel at #2048 (although I think she has a different problem) and Bweave at 2549 to name a few.
There is nothing loose in the trunk. I am wondering if it is related to the anti-lock breaks or the like. Anyone figure this out?
3) Initial Shift Sound from Engine compartment
This has been referenced at #2304 and often confused with the trunk thud. This sound seems to come from the passenger tire wheel well. It sounds like a light scrape or shifting sound.
I have no idea, popular opinion is that this is the VCS/ABS self test as mentioned in the owner's manual. Can anyone confirm this?
4) Finally, the uneasy transmission
First gear is perfectly normal. Second gear starts fine but sometimes does not sift to third when it seems it should (not until 40 mph). When I am driving at 30 mph it seems like it wants to shift but does not. This has been referenced by factman at 2072 and others.
It has been said that the trans software may need to be reloaded. Others have said that it takes 1,000 miles for the computer to adjust to the driver's style. Has this resolved anyone's problems?
5) I HAD a rattle in the passenger door. The dealer said the window was off its track. I assume that was the case, the problem seems to be fixed.
I really like the car and am happy with my purchase. Although I did not think I would have any of these questions or trips to the dealer with a new Toyota. I can live with items 2 and 3 assuming they are normal and no damage is being done to the car. I will have the dealer check #4 if it does not self correct by 1,000 miles. However, numbers 1 and 5 are unacceptable.
Any input from someone with these problems would be great. Thanks!
The thud I heard is actually my speakers. To remedy that, I have to turn the radio off before I turn the car off.
I heard a rattle too. However, I couldn't seem to pinpoint the sound. You know what my "rattle" was? My sunglasses in the overhead compartment. I sure felt foolish when I realized what it really was.:)
As for the shifting, my SE has that same problem of not shifting from second to third on my downhill street. Also, when I am traveling around 50 mph, there is ocassionally an abrupt shift. I've driven over 2000 miles and it still does that. I just haven't made the time to get my car into the service dept. I will do it soon though and I'll let you know if that remedies the shifting problem(s).