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On my 94 the light didn't come on immediately for the same bucking and sputtering problem. The shop tells me that these can be intermittent problems that lead up to the failure of the sensor.
When your crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor fail you will crank with no start.
my crankshaft sensor went at 159,000 miles and the camshaft sensor at 210,000.
Thanks,
Eric
The AC compressor went out about 1 year ago at about 45K..other costly problems included the torque converter/trans shifting, replacement of all coils, replacement of all fuel injectors, trip computer replaced twice, ....
I like the van, it's comfortable, rides well, looks ok--but I will NEVER BUY another GM van again--had I not had the warranties this thing would have cost me a fortune. For example to replace 1 injector costs $382---when the second one went we replaced them all for about $850---of that $850, GM picked up $400 :mad:
Just over a year ago the rear AC stopped working. A local shop serviced the AC and said the rear expansion valve was bad. OK...
So yesterday I pulled out all the left hand rear trim to replace the valve and was able to do so in place without pulling the whole ac/heat unit.
Before changing the expansion valve the system was emptied. During the replacement of the valve there was a "POP" and a release of gas through the rear lines. An odd thing considering there was no pressure (or appeared to be...) in the system.
After replacement and purge/evacuation of the system I started the vehicle and began to add gas. When the pressure was adequate the ac clutch closed. In seconds I could hear the gas circulating in the rear evap. Now the front doesn't work.
So I have two questions:
1 - Is there some kind of flow divider / check valve that seperates the two AC circuits ?
2 - If so, how do I reset it ?
Thanks in advance.
Hot in Arizona,
-Mike :confuse:
Any ideas?
I am the 2nd owner of a 2001 GLS and is currently dealing with that issue. It has been leaking for a while however, I did not know of the "coolant issue" and now I face the possibility of a rusted engine. This happens when the leak goes on for too long and it leaks into the oil (or visa versa) the coolant then becomes like a gel hence an engine replacement is neccesary.
Besides that the only other common problems are the warmer drivers side vents, the ac switch burnout, the power sliding doors issue and the difficulty of routine maintainance, the van performs well.
I just realized that this could turn into a book so I will just make a few statements and questions and if anybody's interested in more of a detailed story I will oblige.
Too be honest you won't believe the things we have experienced. Let's just start of by saying that from the time we drove it off the lot until I demanded a check (before the extended warranty ran out) the rear brakes NEVER worked on the vehicle PERIOD. And I am not BSing it was confirmed by the dealer to GM, they even flew an expert in.
Anyway GM's Extended Warranty is an ABSOLUTE RIP OFF. You are better off taking the money and sticking it into a bank account for when you have problems. Why because it is at THEIR discretion as to whether they have to cover it or not. It is nothing like the original Bumper to Bumper warranty and we bought the BEST extended warranty they offer. And I want to think it was 3 to 4 grand for that warranty. What did I get out of GM for that warranty, nothing but headache and maybe $500.00 in parts. Anyway they did finally fix the rear brakes but refused to pay 1 cent for the front brakes that were ruined as a result. And I don't just mean pads, it had 4 sets of lifetime warranty pads go bad in less than a year in the front. It damaged the rotors, caused overheating of the brake fluid causing all the lines to have to be drained etc. etc.
Anyway time for a question. We are about 10,000 miles after having what work was performed at the dealer, and all of a sudden the van is now running real rough at idle and at acceleration, like it is missing or a valve not firing. At first I thought it was the air filter (we have seen some weird things when your air filter needs replacing), replaced it .. little improvement, thought maybe bad gas, so STP'd it and filled with High Octane. Still missing. (By the way should have mentioned the Service Engine Soon light blinks on and off and intermittently just stays on) There doesn't seem to be any blue or black exhaust so I am leaning towards a fowled or bad plug or possibly a dirty fuel filter, Anyone had an experience with such a problem?
I will continue the rest of my story for anyone that's interested. Let me just say until the problems started we loved the van. And until it hit about 60K most of the problems I can just blame on GM dealers. But after that things really have gone down hill. Would appreciate any response from anybody that has had similar problem. My next question will be on water pump life - ours started leaking at 60K and they refused to cover it under the extended warranty too. What happened to that Cooling system that should last until 150K with no service as long as you used the DEXCOOL coolant. Seems to me that the water pump is part of the cooling system but I guess GM doesn't think so. Thanks!
You might want to ask the folks in the Climate Control Problems (Heat/Air Conditioning): All Cars discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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There was a recall on the passenger auto door a few years ago. It could open auto. when driving. You should see if it's been serviced for this recall. Hope this worked. The door will be very hard to open when auto is turned off or broken.
I might as well mention a couple of other problems since I am posting. One problem that only happens every now and then is that the transmission will disengage while driving. It is like it goes into neutral. You can let off the accelerator, coast for a moment and then you are good to go again. The problem may not happen again for weeks or months. The problem started around 70,000 miles and only at highway speeds and would only occur every six months or less. Lately it has started at normal or in-town speeds and occurs more frequently. However, the frequency has not increased for highway use.
I could mention the sliding door problems (keeps re-opening, sometimes will not work at all) but I have taken enough space for now.
The dealer sees no connection between their work and the Check Engine Light that lights up the very next day (it was never on before).
So I ask, is there a connection between the two?
I realize that it is hard to trust the dealer when I make the comment that the Intake Manifold Gasket seems to be the biggest problem with the 3.4 GM engines. His reply was: "I haven't noticed that".
:mad:
I have read all the previous postings about this 99 Silhouette. I am not sure which model we have. We dont have the VCR or a CD player, so I assume we have a middle of the road model.
Problems we have noticed with it so far
(1) MOISTURE under driver and passenger front. I think this is from rain, not A/C. location of entry point unsure, Yet!
(2) COOLANT LOSS. I have seen steady loss over the past few day and strong odour upon exiting the car though no odour inside. Today spent 3 hours trying to trace that. I think I have found a partial cause not listed so far in forum. The Radiator cap was dripping minute drops of fluid(once in 5 secs). Also the overflow pipe to that tank exhibited fluid where it exited the tank. I will watch if this where the smell comes from. I have not seen any other evidence of fluid about the engine or on the ground,Yet!
Still trying to get used to the remote key deal. Learn that one cant have car running and have door closed with me outside vehicle, yes that part works well
Still cant figure out why we have to turn engine off to open automatic door when stopped, or why dome lights dont come on when unlocking car at night, perhaps someone could enlighten us.(no pun intended)
Condition of vehicle is very nice, carpet shows the evidence of the water leak but no oppressive odour
Found the A/C filters in glove box, looked like never cleaned, full of dirt and leaves, remedied good wet bath and deodorised, works great now. I try to be a little pragmatic.
1 more thing the engine light came on, twice, took it to Autozone, they put their little gizmo under dash and the number 0440 popped up, they claimed that it was from the gas cap not being tight enough, we'll see. Also gas gauge doesn't work so we refill at the idiot light or 180 trip miles. not sure of gas tank capacity.
Thanks in advance for any input, Mike
The only possible help I see in my Haynes manual is in the chassis electrical system diagrams that mention that each motor for power doors or lift gates contains an (ECB) or electronic circuit breaker. However nowhere does it tell me where this blinking motor should be or how to get to it so I can check the ECB
The Haynes manual also mentions a solid-state control module but once again no information on where it might be located or how to trouble shoot it.
The only thing I can add that might help here is that if you leave the door open and place the mini-van in gear the warning buzzer still buzzes.
I have scoured the forums and not found any help for this problem. If someone could help me out I would really appreciate it.
I have also placed this request for help in the “GM's triplets: Venture, Silhouette, and Montana” forum.
Thanks,
Gary
I also have a '94 minivan. I just had a new battery put in the vehicle and the power door no longer works. My symptoms are very similar to yours. I can add one other fact. This happened once before when I had some electrical work done on the vehicle and one day it mysteriously started working again.
If you get any responses, I would love to hear the answer. I do not think it is mechanical. I think their is some kind of reset switch somewhere in the vehicle.
Ryan
Perhaps it is a mysterious electrical issue but I found the motor it is over the right rear wheel well. To get to it simply pop the snaps on the trim and it comes right off.
I applied a voltmeter to the motor connections and when you depress the open buttons no juice to the motor.
Hope someone has an answer it is almost impossible fro my kids to get the door opened or closed.
Gary
n7don in the gm triplets forum posted a great response to my problem and it works great now. here is the link if I can get it right.
n7don, "GM's triplets: Venture, Silhouette, and Montana" #1226, 15 Sep 2005 6:06 pm
Gary
TO ALL FORUM MEMBERS:
Before I bought this car, I read through the entire forum, and I'd like to thank all of you (and Edmunds) for the great information you all provided. - Jim
As for coolant leaks, how about this revelation, on top of the engine there appears to be a high pressure water line that has a plastic coupling. I am still losing fluid and this area around the coupling was never wet as the fluid went directly to the manifold cover and was vaporised(hence the odour). the extremely fine spray from the plastic coupling is on the side opposite side of viewing when looking straight on at engine, It appears that the replacement part is a dealer item and one has to have Spiderman characteristics to undo the the pipe.
As for water on the floor under passenger and driver, I sealed around top of windshield where there were to potential points of entry as well as sealing around the rubber. :surprise:
Cheryl
Apparently this got the dreaded intake/ head gasket sickness as it was super overheated. Water in oil, coolant was like dark brown syrup... what little bit came out.
Question... I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar to remove 2 of the 3 front spark plugs..took out some of the threads on one of them. Could this be caused by overheating and severely distorting the heads?
In order I would check
Does it heat on defrost?
- Vacume motor that controls heat damper is not working, stuck to cool setting
- Your heater core is possibly clogged (doubtful)
Dirk
Sparkplugs - maybe were replaced w/o anti-seize on threads. Common mistake w/aluminum heads. Too bad, sounds like it caused some damage that will be effort/$ to fix.
D
I HAVE A 1997 OLDS SILHOUETTE.BOTH OF MY FRONT POWER SEATS QUIT
WORKING AT THE SAME TIME. FUSES -CIRCUIT BRAKERS GOOD.
EVEN HAVE POWER TO THE SWITCHES. BUT SEATS DO NOTHING, LIKE THEY ARE GETTING NO POWER??ALSO THE POWER DOOR JUST MAKES A CLICKING SOUND IN THE REAR, NO MOVEMENT?
ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN CHECK FOR???
THANKS
Rundown:
Replace Tension belt: $180
Air Filter: 42.20
Inductioner (might be wrong about this one) $95.00
Intake Manifold gasket: $943.00
etc, etc, Total about $1300
I'm having them replace the belt alone for now and will take it to a mechanic friend of mine who is fair, but not cheap either. Any thoughts of this guys/gals? Is there a way i can get GM to pick up some of the load or anything else I can do besides sucking it up at the dealership?
Car has 44 thousand miles on it and is my mother's sole mode of tranpsort to work.
Thanks!
~Chris
who hates silhouettes if it costs him more than a thousand.
thanks! Mark :confuse: