Jeep Liberty Diesel

zachinmi · June 2006

The emissions laws that the vehicle must meet are those that apply to the year the vehicle is made (2005 or 2006 for a CRD). The emissions laws are much stricter for 2007+ year vehicles, but that has no effect on a 2006 CRD. Also, there is an emissions warranty that forces the manufacturer to pay for emissions-related repairs for quite a while, if a test shows that the vehicle isn't complying with the relevant emissions laws for its model year. In short - don't worry about it, unless you're in a state where the vehicle can't be sold new due to California emissions requirements.

farout · June 2006

zachinmi: I think that even in California, under certian circumstances, one being that you have to own the CRD for a certian number of months, that you can bring a CRD into the state and register it with a emissions penalty of money. If someone was transferred there from say Kansas, they can't make you rid your self of that vehicle, just make you pay extra to get it legally registered in the state.
Emissions are just a part of the problem in some states, and a person might have to have a safety inspection along with the smog test.
Here in Missouri, there is no emissions test except in a few large cities. Safety inspections are every two years, or depending if someone elected to register it for one year only, Safety inspections are $12.50 and no more by law. The inspection is not very stringent.

Farout

zachinmi · June 2006

Thanks Farout. I have no idea what the rules are in the PRK and I don't intend to find out. Someone from NY (which follows California emissions laws) posted a month or two ago about being able to buy a CRD as a replacement for his truck that died on a trip to Florida and, with some hassle, register the CRD in NY.

I personally think the US is shooting itself in the foot by clamping down on diesel emissions right when gas prices are so high and diesels are starting to eek out a tiny bit more popularity.

farout · June 2006

zachinmi: I do not intend to move again in this lifetime, Lord willing that is. I spent about 30 years in California, and I don't ever care to go except for visiting family.
As far as diesel vehicles in the US, DCX did nothing to promote the CRD! If these vehicle makers want diesel vehicles to sell, they have to make the public want them. People are not going to buy something they are not convinced it is something they want, or need. DCX failed totally in even letting anyone know that the Liberty has a diesel. I am liking our CRD more all the time. I am more upset at the oil Companies by the day. Most places here are selling diesel for $2.86 to $2.90 a gallon, but unlreg. is $2.64. This is suppose to be the time of year when diesel drops, not goes up! Maybe Uncle Sam ought to consider making fuel a pert of the governments job. If done right it should go down. It will never happen. To many greedy @#%^###+>>*** ceo's wanting to live off the blood of the average working man.

Farout

anomious · June 2006

Hi! I have been driving my CRD since May 25, 2005. Finally saw another one today! I stayed by it on the parking lot for over an hour but had to leave...Would have lover to talk to the owner. Can't win them all! Lol
My Libby is a 3-05 build, has had a new EGR and TSB flash. I love it!
Best wishes for all!
LK

nescosmo · June 2006

Farout... I think that California consider a new car when is under 8000 miles (I think) after that you can bring it in and all will be ok.

caribou1 · June 2006

Here is alink to the next generation of 'cleaner diesels':
http://www4.mercedes-benz.com/specials/scr/en/index_nocom_en.htm
It looks feasable for large trucks but I'm worrying about the Liberty becoming a chemical plant :confuse:

winter2 · June 2006

Caribou,

Your concern about the Liberty becoming a chemical plant is unfounded. If you add Bluetec, then you are actually producing fewer chemicals in the exhaust stream.

I would love to retrofit Bluetec on my CRD along with a PM filter. My CRD would be Prius clean.

nescosmo · June 2006

Winter2... What about price we all complain about the MPG that the CRD give us, can you imagen the amount of money that will be expended it on diesel and Bluetec. It will work in Europe, the diesel is priced low but here with the government and the oil company thirst for money, I don't think so. For me bluetec is out.

winter2 · June 2006

Unfortunately, the price of diesel is higher than it should be, no doubt about that but we have only our government, starting way back in the seventies to blame for that. Our government knuckles under to everyone, the oil companies and the environmentalists. Rarely do they ever consider a good middle ground.

Diesel fuel production is at near capacity in this country and so long as gasoline power is pretty much king, you and I and the rest of the people who like diesel will not see much if any relief. If the hurricane season even approaches last years levels, prices will be even higher for all fuels, but like last year, there will be no shortage of diesel fuel.

EU emissions rules are less strict than they are here (more middle ground approach). Part of the problem with diesel in this country is the perception our friends at GM left us with nearly thirty years ago. Most people in this country see diesels as they were and not as they are.

People like us who own diesel are way ahead of the curve. Is Bluetec an added cost? Frankly, I do not know. But if Bluetec catches on here, then one should be able to purchase the additive made by a competitor for less than what DC or MB might charge. I think that will be what happens. One other possibility is that DC may supply Bluetec for free for the first 100,000 miles, but that is just a speculation on my part.

Right now, we are seeing lots of commercials for E85 and ethanol. ADM and other companies like them have lots of cash in their war chests to promote what may be a cash cow for them. I am sure the big three are benefiting from ADM too.

Will biodiesel catch on. Yes, probably, but not right away. Remember GM and their diesel and America's general perception of diesel. That is going to be a tough nut to crack. There is not a day that does not go by when I turn a few heads with my CRD. "That's a diesel? It is so quiet. You get what kind of fuel economy on the road?!?" At least ten or twelve people have at least inquired at the dealer where I purchased my CRD and three or four have purchased a CRD from the same dealer.

So do not rule out Bluetec just yet. Bluetec may be the means we have to eat our cake and have it too.

farout · June 2006

winter2: Remember that DCX is putting the Bluetec in the more costly, GC models. I would look at one and maybe even consider one, if the mpg is high enough. I have an idea that these CRD GC are going to be in the $35,000. + range. I really do not want this big of a debt and the monthly payments of more than $600. as we are retired and there's not much flexablity.
Where we live the nearest E-85 station is about 45 miles away. However the price is $2.21 a gallon. But the mpg on E-85 is much less than reg unl. The Ford dealer has about 20% of the bigger trucks are E-85. I think the E- fuels are welfare for the farmer, and a major rip off for the American consumers. We subsidize the farmer for growing corn for fuel, and the fuel makers get some form of relief as well, I do believe. The actual cost of E-85 is it had to make it's own way in cost would be perhaps $3.00 + . This is stupid, and a waste of tax payers money.
Even Bio diesel uses the wrong plants if they are trying to get the most usable oil for the plant, than the weed flax is a far better source. Again who is making these stupid choices?
The only other CRD I have seen, was a real estate man who pulled into our drive way looking for an address. Neither of us had seen anyone else with one, so we talked for the better part of an hour. It was really interesting, and I have not seen any other CRD from that time.
If you check inventories of Jeep dealers CRD's are getting harder to find. The largest Jeep dealer in the US has four left as of last Monday. My dealer had 6 but is down to two. With less than 3,000 06 CRD's made they will be gone real fast. I don't see any 05 CRD's left any where that I check inventories on the Jeep.com search site.
DOES ANY ONE KNOW OF GOOD FREE, MAINTANCE LOG FOR VEHICLES? ONE THAT I CAN DOWNLOAD.

Farout

stever · June 2006

MSN used to have one years ago and I think Subaru offers one to their owners. I found it easier just to keep an old check register in the car and write down gas and repairs in there and transfer the info to my spreadsheet once a year or so.

Trying to remember to put stuff in Excel after filling up or getting an oil change was harder than just jotting down a note in a pad that lives in the car.

Steve, Host

farout · June 2006

Steve: I have three vehicles, and keep ing track of oil changes, tires, and other items is rather hard to do onjust paper. I done that for as 46 years. I want someting better.

Farout

winter2 · June 2006

If DC, VW or whomever wants to sell diesels in this country, then they will have to put some type of system on their cars that is similar to Bluetec to sell them here. I feel that with the price of fuels going ever higher, people will demand more fuel efficient vehicles. Hybrids are not the only solution and the automakers know it. You will see diesels from different companies with after treatment systems that work basically in the same manner. People will pay for them. They are paying for overpriced hybrids.

Your comments about E85 ring true. It is a boondoggle at best and a wimpy patch to a very serious problem.

I live just outside of Washington D&C and it sure could use one.

stever · June 2006

I want something better

How about a networked array of three PDA's? :shades:

There's a ton of mileage logs for download on the net but most of them are geared for IRS expense reporting. If you got one based on a spreadsheet, it should be easy enough to change some columns for tires and insurance or whatever.

Steve, Host

winter2 · June 2006

Found some here

http://www.tucows.com/Windows/PDA/PalmOS/TravelMaintenance/Automobile/

stever · June 2006

Nice find.

Here's the summary page for my minivan expense log (needs updating!).

Steve, Host

farout · June 2006

Winter2: Thanks I will look it over, hope it works for me. Thanks.

Farout

reggie333 · June 2006

Does anyone know what the CRD oil requirements are in Europe? I know here in the states the manual states 0W40 or 5W40 M1. In europe do they allow the use of MB 229.31 or 229.51 oil? Thanks!

farout · June 2006

reggie33: Welcome to the CRD forum! I asked the very same question a few weeks ago from one of our more knowledgeable CRD owners from France, his forum name is CARIBOU1. As close a guess that I can remember is he said it is the same. May I also tell you that there are several opinions on the subject of oil brands and oil weight. We have some that are using Amsoil, Shell, Mobil 1, and perhaps even more. The weight is again pretty wide as well some use 0-40, 5-40, 10-30, 15-40, and a lot in between. I have been using Mobil 1 0-40w, mainly because after talking to the largest Jeep Dealer in the USA, their tec convinced me that this engine needed oil asap when starting and 0-40 does exactally that. 5-40 is ok, and if someone has an
issue with the 0 the owners book says you can use it. I believe DCX has evaluated this engine with the turbo and EGR being the biggest at risk items the tec said this is better. I change my oil every 8,000 to 9,000 miles, the book says you can go up to 12,000 miles which I feel is a bit to much and 6,000 is to short in my opinion. There are some who change more frequently that 3,000 miles, so it's all within the warranty guidelines, so it comes back to the owners choice.
What year is your CRD, how many miles have you on your CRD? Enjoy the forum, and enjoy the unique collectors addition to the Jeep family.

Farout

reggie333 · June 2006

Farout,

So is it the same as over here or can you use MB229.31 & 229.51? I was a little confused on the response. I think both of the MB oils can be had in the 0W30 range. I have a 2005 Liberty Limited CRD with 11,000 miles. I've already had the EGR valve replaced once, two glow plugs went out, and the infamous tranny shudder. Other than that and only getting 20.5 mpg I like the rig. I was hoping to try a MB229.51 oil to help improve the fuel economy.

Reggie

farout · June 2006

Reggie333: When you say over here, where do you live? I had everything you mention with the exception of the EGR,which was acting up. The tec had spent several days with STAR, which did not help , and kept him on hold for up to 1/2 hour at a time. The tec was as stumped ate STAR. However he says he felt there was a cause behind all the symptons. In an act of desperation he ordered a PCM. His thinking was he had re flashed it at least 6 times, and each time mpg got poorer, and cruse control was not staying in, and the engine was jerking. (some might say that was a shudder)
After installing the new PCM the engine stayed smooth at 700rpm, and the cruse was really improved, mpg went to 24.5 from 22mpg and the tec says the EGR is ok now. He also replaced a big hose that went from the turbo to the radiator. I an very pleased now. I have 15,300 miles on it now. It runs quieter and shifts into 5th at 48 mph and lock up at 53 mph. Much better than 62 mph and 65 mph as before. The transmission shifts rather firmly, and that was smoother before. I have only twice used a Cetane anti-gel booster. There was no difference at all. 20.5 is what I got pulling a 16' inclosed trailer with furniture in it. So the mpg is not good in my opinion. When was your CRD made. Mine is a Sport with a June 16 06 build date. I bought it on Sept 29 05. Does this help?

Farout

synlubes · June 2006

i am running amsoil 5-30 series 3000 i will help a little

bvcrd · June 2006

What does it feel like when it locks up? My tech says you can't feel it, and I can't tell any difference. Only that it shifts into 5th gear.

farmer52 · June 2006

Farout - what are the corresponding rpms at each speed? Is your speedo accurate? My speedo is 3-4 mph fast. I can't believe you shift into 5th lockup at 53 mph. If mine did that my rpms would be well below 1700. My upshifts are at 2200 rpm but I am easy on the go pedal. Thanks!

Karen_S · June 2006

A large local newspaper is looking to interview consumers who recently purchased a diesel vehicle and would like to talk about their car. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Thursday June 22, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information and the make and model of your car.

Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

farout · June 2006

farmer52: I put on the 245 70 16 tires and by the dealers check and correcting the computer it is right on. The dealer can correct errors in speed either way to make it read right, my cost was $35.
At 53 mph I am at 16 rpm, and the than. is in lockup. If I just gently push on the peddle it is a smooth shift most of the time. However at 48 is when it goes into 5th and it could be considered a little sluggish, wit a rather firm shift. If I give a more firm push down on the peddle it will shift into 5th any where from 1800 rpm to 3000 rpm. It all depends on how much speed I want.
I drive like a egg is under my foot and there is a baby chick inside. I listen to the engine and when it is most quiet is when I try to leave the rpms there. My engine has a rumble sorta like when it's like lugging down, and I give it a little more fuel when it makes that noise. I try to avoid flooring it, except when passing. This engine has more pick up than the 05 Limited 3.7 gas I had. I hope something I have said is helpful.

Farout

zachinmi · June 2006

Both 4th and 5th gear have lockup modes. I find it quite noticeable when it goes into 4 lockup, both from feel and from noticing that the tach now moves precisely in step with the speedometer. To my knowledge 5th gear is only used in lockup mode, so a shift to 5 simultaneously locks up the torque converter.

olegrizz · June 2006

I just bought a new 2005 Liberty CRD on the lot on 06/16/06. So far we love it. I live in a more rural area and am seeing the little gas milage readout (do not know how accurate that thing is yet) showing 31.9 mpg while running on open road. Also has plenty of pickup and should tow my (small) fishing boat with no problem. Could I get a couple of tips from you all.
1. At what temperature should I be concerned of diesel jelling?
2. Like a gas vehicle should I give it a first oil change at 600 miles? (almost there)
3. Is there anything special that I should know about changeing the oil on a diesel over a gas engine?
4 Should I hold off on using bio-diesel until after it is broke in?
5. Should I just go ahead and change out the EGR valve at a certain interval of time?

boilermaker2 · June 2006

1. At what temperature should I be concerned of diesel jelling?
---This is a very cold temp. Diesel should not gel until it is below -20 F. Many of the people from this forum put in an additive when temps drop below 0F
2. Like a gas vehicle should I give it a first oil change at 600 miles? (almost there)
---I did mine as 3000 mile and again at 6000. now I follow the manual and do it at every 6000 with M1 0Wor5W-40.
3. Is there anything special that I should know about changeing the oil on a diesel over a gas engine?
---You will notice that the plug requires a hex head for your socket. There are posts on this forum that you can search to find the correct size. It is VERY hard to break loose and it will do this every time you change it regardless of how hard you screw it back in. You will think that you are going to bust the bottom of the oil pan. IT IS NOT REVERSE THREADED. You will also note that there is a copper washer. Some replace this every time they change the oil. Mine is 18,000 miles old with no leaks. :shades:
4 Should I hold off on using bio-diesel until after it is broke in?
---It came off the line with B5. Some would caution going above that. I would say it depends upon the source of the BD. I will never take mine above B20.
5. Should I just go ahead and change out the EGR valve at a certain interval of time?
---No. Let them do it under warranty. I do not think that this forum has come to consensus over this yet. Wait a few months and as we pile up the miles and our thought an answer may come. :shades:

Boiler

05crdjeep · June 2006

I did exactly what boilermaker does and would offer you the same advice.

I'll just add one thing: In Minnesota, the diesel fuel we get in the winter is winterized to -40F. All diesel sold in MN is 2% biodiesel and I do not go above 5%. Whatever state you live in, I doubt that any of the diesel you can buy at any time of the year will give you much problem as long as you are buying from a busy place.

I think they put the Arctic Diesel out here a little too early in the season, personally.

Good luck and enjoy your CRD. And don't forget to clog all the skid plates with mud as soon as possible.

indianrefining · June 2006

I'm sure that these questions must have been answered several times in the past, but I'll ask anyway. What are the indication(s) that the EGR valve has gone bad and what are the possible ramifications of continuing to drive the vehicle before getting the bad EGR valve replaced? Will continuing to drive cause some sort of further damage or is it just a matter of emissions?

caribou1 · June 2006

The first thing noticeable is black smoke coming out of the muffler. You have to follow the defective vehicle to notice that it smokes when accelerating from a stop or a few minutes of heavy traffic queuing. It will 'pour' black smoke in the air like ink dissolves and leaves a trace in water. This is just the beginning

Then the engine doesn't seem as 'peppy' as you would like it to be, but this is subjective and you usually accept because you have other things to do

Later you notice that it shifts a certain way at a certain speed :confuse: :confuse: but you had not logged the initial conditions for comparison

Finally you have the error code on your console when you prefer not to think about service ($£).

Seriously I don't think we can avoid having problems with this valve. If you want to carry on driving with a defective egr valve, as long as the intake air temperature stays within the acceptable range the engine will run.

indianrefining · June 2006

Thanks, caribou1. My main concern is what would happen if we were on a trip and had the EGR valve go belly-up 500 miles from home. Would it be safe to drive home in a condition like that, or would we be stuck somewhere waiting for parts?

05crdjeep · June 2006

Unless the check engine light is flashing, I believe you can drive the thing. At least that is what the dealer told me awhile back.

If the EGR goes out, you just blow black smoke and the check engine light glows continuously.

bhcs111 · June 2006

The hex size for your drain plug is 8mm. Buy a socket I did my first oil change with a regular hex wrench and had an "H" of a time. Other than that have fun and enjoy your CRD. I love mine even with the high price of fuel. And listen to what the others have written for you on your other questions. My EGR lasted until 22,000 miles. So let the them pay for it. My CRD was one of the first out in 2005.

siberia · June 2006

Experiment over - result EGR failure at 22k miles. Not blowing its nose and driving very easy most of the time yielded no apparent benefit for preserving the EGR valve other than better fuel economy in the effort. The only fault code was P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The intake manifold valve eventually pulled the MAP down to 12.6 from 14.5 trying to flow exhaust gas at idle. Normally, MAP around 14.5 will produce adequate flow at idle. Apparently the EGR valve is stuck in the closed position. I reset the trip meter before the 60 mile trip to the dealership (into a light cross head wind) and the OHC indicated 30.9 mpg at end. Could not detect any difference in the way the engine/vehicle performed. Exhaust smoke appears to be nonexistent with this particular failure.

Following is ScanGuage data showing frozen codes when failure occurred:

PID01=0401
PID04=2A LOD=16
PID05=77 WT=173
PID0B=5B MAP=13.3
PID0C=05E2 RPM=753
PID02=2C MPH=27
PID0F=6A IAT=150
PID10=FEFE GPH=1.4 (reading unreliable)

Sometimes I have the mental capacity of an amoeba. I forgot to read the IAT on the way to the dealership. I suspect it was low given that the EGR valve was flowing insufficiently. :shades:

farmer52 · June 2006

I would change the oil and filter at 500-600 miles. This will remove any "built-in" dirt. I changed my oil/filter at 500 miles and then again at 4500 miles (4000 oil miles). I plan to change them again at 10K miles (6000 oil miles) and then every 5000 miles (easy to remember). I am using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 and will switch to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 at 10K miles. Mine is a 2006 built 3/23/2006. So far I love my CRD. The last tank yielded 29.5 mpg (95% highway). Good luck!

P.S. On Monday I received a stone chip in the windshield (4711 miles).

It was repaired today (Tuesday) but is still visible (small dot about 1/32" in diameter).

farmer52 · June 2006

I forgot to mention...I use Stanadyne Performance Formula every tank fill.

tired_old_dave · June 2006

Yes, he's back. Lost seems to be down tonight.

Winter2, retmil46 also stated he's going to amsoil 15w40. Apparently, his provent stopped the ccv oil but his cac hose had oil. Turbo oil like you mentioned over a year ago? shouldn't be a problem with a new diesel. Shop talk - mechanics have been told to use 5w40 and not 0w40 anymore. turbo's are going. Winter2, please expound on your love of amsoil (vs redine) 15w40. ( I can't decide redline/amsoil)

Someone posted somewhere that vm said 0w40 below C degrees and 10w40 above that temperature.

Michelle, did the redline diesel catalyst do all that you thought it did? At least it is a synthetic additive with post combustion benefits.

Anyone using grandpa's marvel mystery oil to disolve intake crud?

winter2 · June 2006

Well, I really like them both equally. The issue I have with RedLine is that it is harder to get. One of the local car parts stores use to sell it but because of the cost, stopped selling it. I have a local Amsoil dealer so getting their product is easier. Cost wise, RedLine tends to cost a bit more than Amsoil.

As to the additives, I have used both and find them pretty much equal. I am able to get RedLine Catalyst at a local car parts place for about $6.00 dollars per bottle. No one carries RedLine's version of cetane improver however. Amsoil Cetane improver does work and does quiet the engine significantly. Both Amsoil and RedLine detergent additives work equally well.

I like these oils because their vaporization rates are at 6 - 6.5%. The use of CI-4+ oils in EGR equipped diesels is well documented by Cummins, Caterpillar, and others. I know that the Rotella others in this forum use has a vaporization rate of about 10%.

I have been pulling off the hose from the turbo to the aftercooler at the aftercooler end. The amount of "crud" in the hose remains stable (unchanged) since I switched to the Amsoil 15W-40. I do not use a Provent so the oil is doing what it is suppose to be doing.

winter2 · June 2006

I sent the specs for this oil to VM Motori and they told me not to use this oil as it does not have the performance they require at higher ambient temps.

steve05 · June 2006

Hello All!
Just back from 1400 mile round trip to West Virginia. White-water raft, mountain biking, kayaking, etc. Put 2 mtn bikes and a 13 foot kayak on roof of CRD (using factory mounts for all - have not had good luck with Yakima gear in the past), and pulled a 1500# trailer laden with about 500# of gear inside, and another kayak on top of the pop-up tent trailer. Averaged 19 MPG for entire trip (still have only 3400 miles.) Driving in mountains in WV with and w/o trailer seemed quite different with the diesel than with my old I-6 cherokee. Odd shift points, up and down. I couldn't always hold speed with cruise. Often, I was unsure whether to let cruise run, or just give her the gas - I mean fuel - to speed up and get over the hill. I was always conscious of the 1600 rpm - ish max torque range, but it just "felt" alot different with the diesel. Hard to explain. Anyhoo, the mileage was only about ONE mpg less with the trailer on than without after we dropped it at camp and continued to sitesee the mountains. One thing I found on my jeep I really like - w/o the trailer and cruising at highway speeds, it was VERY convenient to push the OD on/off button to quickly get out of OD and make a very easy pass, tuck back in and reactivate the OD. Had not at all seen a good use for that button until now. BTW - had a dealer change oil at about 2150 miles right before the trip. He put a sticker in my window referencing "Exxon Superflo" and a return reminder at 5000 miles. Exxon synthetic? Never heard of it. Anyone else? I use Royal Purple synthetic in my race cars. And on another note, I am supposed to finally get my owners manual this thursday from my "5 star" dealer in southfield, mi. Last thing - I installed the factory subwoofer in the jeep under the drivers seat day before the trip - huge improvement in sound system. Recommend this to EVERYONE. Takes about an hour, costs a little over $200 US. I have the basic sound system from factory and it really helped out. Also - just picked up factory iPod adapter. Will put that in this weekend. Stash iPod in glove box and control from radio console. Sweet! May upgrade to newer iPod just for my JEEP!

Steve

lovemycrd · June 2006

Gabez I have a Remote starter in my CRD. This is a great thing not only for the winter but for towing. The Viper 791XV is a starter/security set up. Yes you must also buy a delay switch that will time out the glow plugs and them you also have to time out the cranking. It will probably take some adjustments to get it right but it will work for the Liberty CRD. This also has a run lock set up which is very useful for letting the turbo cool down during high speeds and towing under load condition.

lovemycrd · June 2006

Steve, did you add a elec. trailer brake to your set up before leaving on this trip or was the breaking system ok of the job?

tired_old_dave · June 2006

Thank You. I thought I remembered your post about amsoil spec close to the 5w40 mobil 1. I have cards fom dozens of amsoil "dealers" and tonight considered the amsoil preferred customer program for $10.

I remember reading (some time ago)a canadian auto writer's article about his experience in his vw diesel and a test case of PE synthetic oil (redline?) and how he raved about it in his article.

If you had the same access to redline (if it's not prohibitive in cost) would you switch? I guess I'm asking which oil will less likely make dcx mad or alternatively which oil will dcx finally recommend. Someone posted that amsoil ? was recommended by dcx in Europe. And someone posted about the 10w40 recommendation by vm.

Pulled my cac hoses before the switch to 5w40 and cleaned them and the throttle plate and intake again. Just took them off again recently (another oil change is due) and only a thimble full of liquid oil on the lip of the intake. The contamination is now all tacky crud (not dripping oil) - well you know.

I assume the 15w40 is to again keep this destruction at bay, keep the oil from passing through the turbo, then with new parts hopefully someday from dcx, this will have been a bad memory.

Power Service not boosting cetane - so it must be boosted already and still substandard diesel here. Cetane boost is limited and even if one adds gallons of it - it will have no effect. Got good diesel in east texas - obviously from oklahoma. And got good diesel in oklahoma. Cool night driving with these fuels gets us to 27 mpg. I would love to send a small camera into our cac or gauge our air intake temperatures - these hot southern days, with suspect cac cooling ability, don't help.

Thanks again.

caribou1 · June 2006

I'm beginning to think that the machining tolerances are too tight between the egr valve stem and it's guiding bushing. Some are stuck open and others closed. Why did the older diesels survive and not the recent ones?

The older diesels did not have the fine filtration cartridges we use today, and their combustion soot was oily because combustion was incomplete.

It may be worth the try to ask a technician to enlarge an egr valve guide with a reamer, and to re-install the same valve. This could save a lot of effort if we could accept a small leak in the system.

new2diesel · June 2006

OK - I think it finally happened. This morning I noticed the engine malfunction light stayed on indefinately. Paniced, I pulled over to check the manual and realized that it simply means that something is registering with the OBDII. Since I have 18,600 trouble free miles, I am assuming it is the EGR. I tried to turn the key on and off 5 times as I read on this board but no luck. I cannot get a readout and there are no codes flashing on the odometer. The strange thing is I switched to the low sulphur 47 cetane diesel fuel two tankfulls ago. Any thoughts or ideas? Is it time for a EGR replacement?
Thanks :sick:

stb · June 2006

My 2005 uses a star bit in the drain plug. I also have a hard time breaking it loose. I was thinking of using antisize but I am afraid of it shaking loose!!!

Any preference on oil filters? I have been using a long canister filter made by fram. Its about 3 in longer than the original DC filter. It takes a few more ounces of oil.

olegrizz · June 2006

Thanks to everyone for the response.

New to the diesel thing, but like anything else I figure I'll have a learning curve.

Jeep Liberty Diesel

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles