Jeep Liberty Diesel

tired_old_dave

95 degrees F driving for awhile, everything hot. You cannot "punch" the throttle - you have to pretend you don't have a turbo. If you allow a mile or so to pass you can slowly increase speed and go. Smells of tc? I don't have a sensor/probe to measure ait or egr temps. I suspect all my tar in the intake isn't helping even with mine breathing quite well by not vacuuming the highway and with a full 2 and 1/2 inch exhaust (by removing gasser muffler).

tired_old_dave

"2. DC runs these trans' fairly warm. I am wondering if they are running these 545's too warm. Even though I do not tow, I am considering adding an external trans cooler. This was recommended to me by a good trans tech."

Don't go there. The slippery slope. Then you have to admit that you need to open up the intake and exhaust, provent, and other things. This means you feel dcx engineering was lame.

I am not attacking you. But you have already made this conclusion by jumping off of 0w40 many miles before this poster - finish your reasoning and believe your own gut feelings and not what the crd could've been.

tired_old_dave

No difference in build to my knowledge. I am not an engineer. I hand wash our vehicles. We are in a drought here in dallas/ft worth and don't really have a winter season with salt and slush.

I'll try to find the link showing the difference in design of front suspensions. I think this is what that poster was saying. Regular ball joint design is compression loaded. The kj lbj is under stress to be pulled apart and at the same time pushed together. Tension/compression?. The forces on the lower ball joint want to separate it and at the same time try to hold it together.

You can't just do the tire wiggle to check the ball joint. There is a procedure. There are signs but if you get a clunk, you have waited too long.[Don't confuse it with the loose passenger side(left hand drive) motor mount bolt clunk.]

tired_old_dave

A very smart service manager asked if I really wanted the new smooth shifting tsb reflash for the tranny. Like winter2, I prefer the firm quick shifts like the old ford trucks - trannies lasted as long as the truck if maintained. (I will not buy and install a trans go kit, I shouldn't have to)

I hope my tranny problem was not caused by the new reflash some time back. (But tc failures have been reported long before this reflash.) Edmunds cadillac forum thread has a gm general authorization to dealers to reflash the tranny with an update and replace fluid if bad and replace any parts that the previous software caused.

caribou1

There is a procedure that uses a pinch bar and dial indicator as described in the manual. In this case you try to pull the ball joint appart to measure the play. The lower suspension arm needs be resting on a block of wood or some firm material to slightly compress the suspension.

The other way to do this is to use a large plumber's plyer when the truck is on a 4 point lift (swivelling arm type). You then look for ball joint penetration by compressing it. The wheels can be left on the truck to pull the suspension down in this case.

The acceptable play of 1.5mm seems enormous for an attentive driver.

The simplest road-side inspection is to jack the truck along the chassis just enough to lift the suspected wheel and compress the ball joint. It will take you 5 minutes to decide how you will get back home :shades:

winter2

Dave,

I already open the hoses from the turbo to the after cooler and from the aftercooler to the intake to check the amount of goo in the hoses. Since switching to Amsoil, that level of goo has remained the same and has not worsened. Will I us a Provent, more than likely the answer is "no".

I have concerns about the trans based on what the trans guy told me some time ago and in fact he told me this when I mentioned to him that the CRD had the same trans as the hemi on the Dodge RAM.

My reasoning is pretty much complete but I still go back and look at it as new information surfaces. I am comfortable with my "GUT" feelings. I do not even consider what could have been. I only consider what is.

tired_old_dave

Thanks for posting for everybody who doesn't have a shop manual on cd. The instructions were posted sometime back elsewhere on the net. How often do you check yours? Or do you get the "Is it clunking" question from a service writer.

tired_old_dave

I agree. The amount of liquid oil was neglible with the switch to mobil 5w40. But remember that I have a cac that saw 18k miles of 0w40. The replacement hose from the turbo to the cac does have goo stripes (turbo too). Could be from the mobil 5w40 or any 0w40 that worked its way out.

Did you clean the throttle plate while you had the hose off. The first time before the switch to 5w40, liquid 0w40 and goo everywhere. Much cleaner recently after 6k miles of 5w40.

No, I don't have a provent and quit my homemade mod (because 5w40 was better) and don't run a hose to atmosphere. Email back from Mobil recently and their 5w40 diesel oil will be available in my texas area approximately August 2006 at auto zone.

I can't afford to wait until August to do my next oil change.

farout

tired old dave: I was at the dealer yesterday, with our 96 Neon with 185,500+ miles on it. I went looking at these gas saving "Hemi" cars and Jeeps. All the Hemi engines has a transmission made in Germany All the other 4.7 V-8 and 3.7 V-6 had the 545's except the Jeep Liberty 3.7 has the old out dated 4 speed auto. Which makes me wonder why the Liberty 3.7 does not get the same trans as the GC and Commander 3.7 has.
I am having the third gas gauge sending unit put in next week. It said 3/8 and was empty, almost had to prime the buggy, but shut it off when is started missing in a odd way Called DCX road service sent out 2 gal of diesel free. So at least for me the fuel sender units have not been reliable.

Farout

tired_old_dave

I am glad you got good use out of the 96 Neon. Thanks for the info on the transmissions. There was the lost comment about why didn't the crd get the MB tranny. Were you here last year when I asked Dusty to come to this forum and help defend the assault on the 545? How could the best not be good enough? I think it is tc and software. I didn't want two second gears, I wanted more gears and now everybody is doing it real 7 - 6 - 5 gears.

This is my first Daimler product and of all my vehicles had one Plymouth and one used Chrysler New Yorker. I suspect I am done with dcx unless for one reason or another we have to keep the jeep. Grubbs Jeep people(not my selling dealership) have bent over backwards to keep me happy and for that I will be forever thankful.

The better half wanted the crd after driving it. (Looking back now it was crude-step on the pedal and nothing and then zoom the power comes on and throws you into the seat-afterburner.) I always wanted that cummins and therefore a Dodge but the crd fits in the garage (ours or dc's), has 4x4, can tow poundage, and it is a diesel - but the better half has had enough.

Like I posted before we are looking first to the general and then to the east. Came off three fords and did have a close bond with the ford service writer and signed a lot of charge card bills. And I think I remember Bill saying (spinning like washington) we just got to convince the people to buy ours

The jeep has a nice sounding door when you close it and seems solid hitting interstate holes etc but if a gm body falls apart while getting me there maybe that is not so bad.

cojeeper

I've gone through almost 4000 messages. We love our 2005 Jeep Wangler, and looking at replacing our 2002 Toyota minivan with another Jeep. With the rebates and the trade-in we should get a pretty good deal.

My question to you all are:
1. Would you recommend a 2006 CRD? (I think this is a YES!)
2. Should I go with the Extended Warranty? I've turned these down in the past, but since I've read about problems with the Liberty CRD I wonder if it would be a good idea.
3. Besides changing the tires, and trying to get free oil changes, what other things should I try and deal for?

A quick response would be apprecated, since I'm looking at the purchase this week to take advantage of the $2K rebate.

tired_old_dave

1. You already said yes. But why don't you ask Michelle -crd4me2? are you here? But seriously, mid August through the end of the year may be bringing new product and prices and financing deals too good to believe.
2. Yes.
3. Nothing is free. Who changes your wrangler oil. I thought jeeps were for wrenches. Quoting/paraphrasing a character from one of my better half's old tv shows Briscoe County Jr-Nobody touches my piece(and monkeys with guns-quoting eddie izzard)except a good jeep mechanic.

farout

Tired Old Dave: I am not sure about other CRD's but I have a pretty good understanding of some of these problems thanks to Curt my dealers Tec and Yark Chrysler Jeep In Toledo, Ohio> Their tec does some work on Jeeps on factory problems when they dont have the time or are short on people. That and I have called about 15 other dealers that their tec seemed to know more than the average bare.
I share some of my opinions as I have gathered from all these kind folk Feel free to dump anything as junk or keep what ever might seem worthy to consider.
The re-flashes are good as long as it applies to a specfic problem you have, if not don't do it. Once something is re-flashed you can not go back to the way it was, that can be going from bad to what a mess!
@ mpg was just about standard no matter how we drove or if we used any additives, nothing changed! Power was good and no complaints in that area. The transmission had a very odd shifting pattern and did a good amount of jerking in 4th and 5th and in lock up it jumped between 5th and lock up, making it feel like it didn't know where to go or what it should do when it got there. Jerky is what I called it. The trans would not go into 5th until 62 and lock up at 64 to 66 mph, and then I could use the cruse control to lower it down to 58 mph, at 57 it would down shift. Now I knew this had to be wrong, yet a lot of us were doing this. When in cruse at 60 mph going into a dip when starting back up the cruse would drop out. Bummer!
Star thought my EGR was acting like it was going, but the tec did not agree.
After the tec got worn out with STAR's lets guess again, he tried something way out on a limb. He ordered a new Power Train Module, known as the PCM. Right off the bat that made so much difference it was unbelievable. The mpg jumped to 24.5 mpg and the cruse works about 90% better, and the trans shifts into 5th as early as 48 mph and most generally at 52 mph and lock up at 54 mph, and will stay there even in the hills where we reside. The engine idles smoother, and STAR says the EGR is just fine.
I think the ECU is the first thing tec's and STAR look to for trouble, because it appears to be the problem, but is not the real problem.
I am convinced that Mobil 1 0-40w is not as good as 5-40w. causes to much rattle when starting , and when my turbo hose was changed I saw enough to determine something was wrong, and for me it pointed to the 0w part of the oil There is a significant difference between 0-40 and 5-40 and even Mobil says we should use 5-40 w. In V M Motori response to my e-mail they said in Europe they suggest 10-40w and 5-40 was ok but as a rule, 5-40w was for 10C and below. They specifically said not to use above 10-40w. I am not knocking anyone who does things differently, but I think there is a relationship to 15 -40w to and higher weights to EGR problems, several tec's suggested the same.
Again if someone does not agree I am not meaning to offend anyone, if someone thinks differently that's fine this is only my take on these things. Bio fuel above B-5 is a mistake. This was told to me by nearly every tec that was servicing more that 15 to 25 CRD's that either were sold by their dealer or customers were going to them for other reasons. The e-mail V M Motori sent me that is available at a web site for all to see: DELPHI, BOSH, SIEMENS VDO, DENSO, and STANADYNE, all say any of their products subjected to more than B-5 the warranty for their parts or part will be void. How they could prove if higher rated Bio fuel is used I do not know, but the burden of proving higher than B-5 was used is their responsibility.
None of these issues by themselves seems too bad, but when hit with the down time, parts delay, and ignorant tec's that's a lot to deal with.
I have not gotten to the point where I am ready to trade the CRD off by a long shot. But if it were in the shop for 30 days with five things wrong, I would not take it! Something would be done, I just have not got those kind of patients.
I have called DCX and written them suggesting a rebate to be used on the purchase of a new Jeep within 24 months or before 36,000 miles would be the honest thing for them to do as we have been misled and used as a "test market" at our expense. I have not heard anything positive so far.
Tired Old Dave, the way I type and as slow as I am, I should sign off as Farout, old and tired.

Farout

farout

cojeeper: If you can afford to take the risk of maybe you will get a real CRD with lots of issues, or you just might luck out and get a good one, then yes.

If you can not afford a Max Care Service Contract for no deductible and 100,000 miles then do not even consider such a investment. Like it or not you are joining the rest of us as DCX's "test market". If I knew then what I know not I'd still buy one.

Farout

nescosmo

cojeeper... I read alot about the VW and let me tell you the Jeep CRD is much better; we do not have that much of a problem, all we have is EGR, some tranny re flash and that is all. If you like diesel buy it Jeep diesel is a dream to drive. My CRD never had any problem with the tranny and I think tha the EGR replacement was not necessary, I had 2 plug replace that I think was not necessary but what can I tell you If when the warranty go the engine light come on and the CRD don't loose power and the like, I will use it like that with me so far so good and I drive it like a rented mule.

caribou1

I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles, check the ball joints, log disk and tire wear at the same time. I keep a trace to eventually understand what went wrong. I do the same for fueling stations + air filter + temperature + traffic conditions. I'm surprised to see that mileage keeps improving when temperature rises, even when above 25C. Since I don't have the Lambda sensor on mine, I suspect a bug in the software and believe a temperature sensor will soon be replaced by a fixed resistor :shades:

tired_old_dave

I was born in PA. Are you old enough to remember the old sunoco gas pumps with the rotary knob to select fuel grade and did you ever pump from the highest unmarked button.

Use 0w40 as the required oil for 18k miles one of the first crd's with a Dec '04 tranny and do it in the heat of texas on trash diesel - then tell us about your great mileage. Told of a local owner getting 17mpg around town.

tired_old_dave

I rotated my bridgestones, that I bought after spinning out on the st's, 14k miles ago - all 4 tires are wearing the same and I rotated front to back only.

The liberty is a girly car and more than one woman bought without nudging from a spouse. Tranny dipstick sticking up in the air with tranny fluid on the black plastic aircover, loose air duct hose clamps suckking air past the air filter and on and on. Who checks their lbj's?

tired_old_dave

Went to the forum (and according to the crd & 545 help... thread)after this post, apparently dcx is talking to the converter manufacturer and working on a software fixed caused by that last reflash.

autoboy16

The good news is that ULSD is out!!

tired_old_dave

Farout,

I forgot to respond (and I apologize for hogging this much space here at edmunds)

Fuel guage - this has been much talked about - even I was told two different things: the fuel float sender is reset on fill up or there is no way to reset it. Expecting a fix the service writer performed the guages reflash to adjust the readout of the guages for the temperature guage fix.

There supposedly is a chime when fuel gets low. Since day one when full it registers over full and you think you are getting 50mpg. Mine and others are 3 - 4 gallons off. At half tank I can put in 13-14 gallons. I have only gone down close to the final quarter mark once. I assume 20mpg and fill up after dropping to less than 1/2 tank or after 200 miles. This also mixes the first texas crap diesel with this new texas crap diesel and creates a new texas crap blend.

My oil dipstick when properly full at my personal oil change, reads on the M of the Min mark, others say 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch below full-some people are etching a new full mark on the oil dipstick-I don't have to I do my own changes.

Tranny dipsticks appear to be popping out of the tube, some are cutting the bottom off. I put two bends in my dipstick to keep it down. I have seen a crd owned by a woman who's dipstick was way up and tranny fluid was on the firewall side of the engine cover.

You've heard this all before. I have posted this before. Let's get back to which do you put on your rear view mirror-fuzzy dice or quartz beads.

Thanks for the few chuckles, smokinclutter.

And you may think that you are one of the lucky ones and maybe you might be. The bell tolled for everyone.

texcrd06

I am new to this post and thought I would give it a go since there are a few issues I am concerned about. First of all my husband and I just purchased a 2006 Liberty CRD Limited 4x4. While there are things that I love about it, there are also things that concern me. My Liberty shifts very rough at around 35 miles an hour when I accelerate slowly. Now if I "floor" it, it shifts fine. I live in a small town where there is a lot of 35 mph speed limits and the shifting back and forth is really starting to bug me. It also has another rough shift at about 60 mph. This one has not been too much of an issue, but am I going to have to start worrying about it? Are these issues that I should bring to the attention of my dealer?
Another issue my husband and I have is the recommended oil that they want you to use. Straight 0w-40 just did not sit right with our gut and finding a synthetic 5w-40 was impossible. We bought 5w-30 but aren't sure if we should use it or not. We have had diesels before, but always ran rotella in them. So using a detergent oil just seems wrong. Any info would be helpful.
I was reading on here earlier and what is really bothering me is the possible ball joint problem. Has anyone actually had a problem with their ball joints? If so, did they fix them without any hassle and what was their fix? Personally, if MOOG makes a replacement then I will do that. They have served us well all other times we have used them.
We have had many new vehicles and many used and have always turned down the extended warranty. We work on our own vehicles and enjoy it. We are proud members of the offroad community and will continue to do so. But the issues that I have heard about are making me question turning down the warranty. Any help again, would be greatly appreciated.

tomasz2

My experience was not so bad, although my car was almost 2 months in repairs. Once you accumulate enough evidence call Jeep customer service and tell them you want to start the lemon proceedings. Be firm. You will be asked to fill out a form. After I did that they called me in two weeks that the car was officially recognized as lemon. In a few days I was contacted by an external agency handling the arbitration and in a week or so had my money back (minus $500 for mileage).

farout

Do NOT use 0-30! Rotella makes a 5-40 which is top notch.

Farout

farout

Tomasz2: Might I ask how many miles you had on your CRD? That might be helpful to judge how much they charge. Thanks and the best of luck!

Farout

farmer52

Farout...FYI...I checked my CRD the last several days and it runs 56-57 mph at 1700 rpm (~65 at 1900). As soon as the rpms drop below 1700, it shifts out of 5th OD. The actual speedometer reads 60 mph but my speedo is 3-4 mph fast (checked with stop watch and radar) with factory tires. The 56 mph is corrected. Shifting has been that way since day one. My average highway (90%) mileage is 28 mpg. Still using BP Supreme with Stanadyne Performance Formula every tank and Shell Rotella T 15W-40. 5600 miles on the clock.

Also, the oil level on my dipstick is at the FULL line with 6-1/2 quarts plus MOPAR filter.

farout

farmer52: Your dealer can "fine tune" the speedometer. I put on 245 70 16 T on mine, took it to the dealer and somehow with the computer re set the actual speed. I have checked by the 1 mile marker signs and it reads right. At 1600 I am doing doing about 54 mph. As long as it's a flat road it will stay there, but with even a small incline it changes. at 1800 I am doing what looks to be 62 mph. I am not sure if your State Troopers will clock you for accurate speed or not, some do, and it's more of a public service, when there not busy. I also believe AAA offers a speed testing, but I am not for sure about that.
I can tell you that I have really been close to try the Rotella 15-40 because it can be bought at so many places. But I feel for me I don't feel good about that much difference from what DCX says to use. However, I am going to use Rotella %-40 at next weeks oil change. Mobil is very hard to find in the 5 quart jug, and 0-40 no one carries except the dealer. A few places can order 0-40 but at $7.00+ a quart. The gallon of Rotella 4-40 is $18.95, I will get 2 jugs and I may start using this same oil on our 2 Neons as well. WalMart is dumping all 0-40 and 5-40 Mobil oils, and now has 5-30 Mobil 1. That won't do me any good at all. I should have 16,000 miles next week. When they change out the Fule sending unit I am having the oil changed, with my oil. I like the VM Motori filter and until I am sure there is a better filter I will pay the $12.95. With the last oil change the dip stick was right on. Can you believe that? I am expecting to experience what everyone says they have had, when I don't it's time to celebrate.
The longest we get away from the home is about 110 miles over two lane farm roads and 23 miles of 4 lane hwy. So I can't say what mpg it gets on a trip yet.

Farout

tired_old_dave

Farout,

Reviewed your post about your 2002 dodge dakota and ball joints at 12k miles and four more times including the need at 92k miles when you let the vehicle go. Please have them check your crd lbj's even if you have only 16k miles, especially if you still have that gravel road.

Reviewed crd action in Australia tonight. Sorry, rules about linking other forums. Got the link at lost(?) during provent vs raccor vs another brand discussions. An interesting note about some lame ccv restrictor w/ss "steel wool"-dealer or dcx supplied wasn't clear. They are still talking about tar in the cac etc and why did't it come with a provent like vw now provides.

We now have two 15w40 users here (rotella and amsoil). That plus clean air filters should help everyone to keep their intake systems cleaner from ccv and any turbo oil?.

farout

Tired old Dave: I will have them check out the ball joints. Hard to believe this is a problem for the Liberty also. If they are bad I will pay for the ball joints with zerk fittings, that is the real source of the problem, I think. When I take the Jeep in next Wed. while the fuel sender is replaced...again, his making three. Mine said 3/8 of a tank and it was sputtering for fuel. Knowing I was not going to have to prime this "Green Thing" I called road service and they bought me out 2 gallons. Here is a real kicker, my Service Contract says they will bring out % gallons. I am in the middle of getting DCX to get Cross Country squared away on their short changing me. The DCX Service contract people said they have had a number of people call with this complaint!
We have a lot of Almish living in our area, and a horse and buggy just might be a option is diesel fuel gets higher. We have two horses being boarded on our land. Gee this sounds better all the time. Only thing is they are very very slow!
I am switching to Rotella, but 5-40 so that's closer than I was before. Who knows, if DCX keeps having problems, especially id my EGR goes then I will reconsider. Lets see how yours does and then maybe I will reconsider.

Farout

goodcrd

No. I'm not that old. I do remember when gas was around 50 cents a gallon for high test. I did notice a lot of diesel pickups when I was in OK and MO. I never got good mileage from the truck stop diesel. It was cheaper but burnt more like Kerosene then diesel. Try a phillips 66 or a Conoco station for diesel and let me know how she runs. I have been running Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel since 12,000 miles. I change the oil every 12,000 and I've sent a sample in for analysis and the engine still doesn't show it has been fully broken in. The next oil change will be 36,000 miles. At 30,000 I will change all the other fluids except the coolant. I don't like the 0w-40. I trust the VM engine people over DC. 5w-40 is excepted by both. As for the air filter, I've changed it every 6,000 miles. It just caught alot of dirt and from experience diesels run better with clean air filters. Next time you change your engine oil send a sample in and check it for percentage of diesel. If it is high you may be running a fuel rich condition and either your ECU or fuel injection system may not be functioning correctly. You definitly should be getting between 24 and 26 on the highway as long as your not keeping your foot to the floor. Around here 60 mph is the norm on the Highway. Down in OK on I-70 you'd get run over if not doing 80 or better.

julie10

Hi. I have had my CRD since August 2005. I have had absolutely no mechanical problems so far. I love my Jeep. My only complaint in the fabric on the seats. If water drips on them they stain. Does anyone have a good method to get water spots off of the seats? I am afraid anything I use will only make it worse.

Also, I have never gotten over 23 mpg, and that has only happened a few times in the last 10 months, most of the time I get around 19 or 20. I don't drive with a led foot and I don't punch it to take off. Yet I read on here some people saying they get 28 and more!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

tired_old_dave

Thank you. I've tried to quit posting here since I can't seem to keep the posts short and only to offer one little tidbit of note.

I didn't slide over the fact of the 3/8's reading. At times, I can put 15 gallons or more in at half a tank or a little less, just didn't want to confuse things(are we using the gasser float and if so can it handle the fuel we buy that sometimes is really diesel?). The odds of 3-4 sending units unlikely.

I've been to Amish country in PA. I love those draft horses. The texas state fair and the mule riders there gave me an appreciation for mules.

I had great misgivings after buying the redline 15w40 sitting in the garage waiting for ours to come back from their garage, but not now. If shell is being used then I have no problem with redline class v pe oil to keep my turbo bearings clean (unless there is mobil 0w40 coke sitting there now despite over long cool down times).

caribou1

I posted somewhile back about my fuel level sender.
I've also encountered erratic displays where I should of had an empty tank after 250 miles :confuse:
I was then using the ULSD diesel fuel.

The Jeep tech told me we had the standard immerged resistive float that the gassers use. In my case starting with a full tank of ULSD the gauge was showing 3/4 Full after ~50 miles, 1/4 left after 250 and later became more accurate to reach the Empty limit (at full scale).
The explanation to this seems to be the better conductivity of the bio fuel. Aircraft fuel filling/dispensing companies also mention the safer aspect of bio fuel mixes concerning better dissipation of electrostatic charge by the fuel itself (less static electricity buildup).

tired_old_dave

50 cents a gallon-you're catching up to us old guys.

Do you get lost? Do you know of retmil46?

Some engines were shipped with build grit in the oil and/or coolant systems. Taking off my oil cap some months back (posted here to winter2) I noticed micro? scratches on the cam lobe that was viewable. I don't remember grit in my first oil change. And my radiator overflow tank was clean (there was a tsb? to tell dealers that if the tank looked dirty to flush and fill the coolant - however egr replacement also requires coolant change - I've always used distilled water and antifreeze - gm/texaco is being sued for dexcool - ask around like I did - could find no dealership that uses distilled water)

retmil46 reports 30mpg in north carolina but on 1 trip to austin, tx to see and old buddy got 22mpg on texas crap.

There are autobahns in this part of the country(and now parts of I-20 have an 80mph speed limit). Did you drive the OK turnpike at posted 75 or follow the herd to higher places? OK refinery diesel (conoco-phillips refinery?) bought in okc and in east texas gets my evic moving up to 27-28 with my rpms 2600-2800 or more. Exhaust now a 2 1/2 inches all the way with an a free flowing after market muffler and I've opened up the intake to stop vacuuming the highway.

tired_old_dave

Thank you and I apologize but I have no memory of that post but since I read msnbc medical update - my lapses can no longer be shrugged off as old age but the "A" word.

I noticed that the one time it got close to the 1/4 remaining hash mark that it appeared to be the most accurate.

Yours reads less than you have and ours reads more than we have until we need to find a pump. Bio let alone good bio is not readily available and I believe banned in Texas except for the grandfathered stations and B100?

bluemule

Has anyone installed a boost gauge in a Liberty diesel? If so, where did you tap into the manifold at and what color is the wire that dims and brightens the dash lights? Thanks for your help.

lewi

I am getting 22-24 mpg routinely with my 2006. I probably am about 50-50 on hwy - city type driving. I have not taken a "highway" type trip with it.

I remember as a child watching my Grandfather change the gas price signs at his service station during a "gas war", 18.9 for regular. When I started driving, prices were less than 30 cents a gallon.

dirtmover

So about 90 seconds after starting to drive all my dash lights illuminated like they do at startup. They only stayed on for about two seconds and then extinguished :confuse: . This was about 150km ago and has not happened again. Has anyone experienced this before?

tomasz2

Only about 1,500 miles. So I guess it was about 30 cents per mile.
Happy new owner of xterra

ke4itn

Tell the tech to look for a short in the wiring harness. They found mine somehere around the headlights, mine also displayed a J1850 error code on the EVIC.Good Luck

vtdog

XRERRA? I dumped my '00 XTERRA for the CRD. I NEVER got better than 17.5mpg and more often was less than 15. It ran good and was a tough vehicle, but good luck with the gas cost

bluemule

What did you do about the grit in the engine. I just bought a new 2006 CRD Liberty and I noticed the same scratches on the cam lobe when I was looking at the engine to find a place to tap into the manifold to install a boost gauge. Have you told Jeep about the scratches in the cam?

I want to do the exhaust also. What size and brand muffler did you install? Did it make the exhaust any louder?

If you have any info on a good place to tap into the manifold or turbo piping for the installation of a boost gauge I would appreciate the help.

What did you do to open up the intake. I have looked for after market kits, but I have had no luck.

Thanks for your help.

mpolovic

I've had this happen once a few months ago. I decided not to take it in unless it happens again. My build in June 2005 and I have 29,000 miles.

siberia

I noticed the same scratches on the cam lobe when I was looking...

I observe 2 lines around the visible cam lobe that are about 1/16 inch from each side of the lobe. These are normal wear lines at the margin of the cam follower. You would not find these lines on a non roller cam push rod engine since the lifters are about twice as wide as the lobes. If you are seeing something else, this response is invalid.

bluemule

That is about the same that I am seeing. I just thought it looked a little funny since it was brand new. Well, 2000 miles on it now.

Thanks for the info.

steve05

Local hitch installers added the electronic brake under the dash for around $200 which included the adjustable controller and the 7-pin with the extra 12 volt power for the tralier house lights.

tired_old_dave

Scratches - not your normal marks. And did nothing. Don't seem to be one that got the gritty engine.

retmil46 at lost learned about aero-turbine and passed it along there where I saw it. Others are using flowmaster,magnaflow, etc. One uses no muffler. The biggest problem is after the cat/muffler flange the 2 and 1/2 inch exhaust is neck down to a smaller size(2-2 1/4) for the gasser muffler. All this is here and all over the net. Consensus is a 2mpg increase at highway speeds opening the exhaust and lower exhaust gas temperature.

I linked my $10 - $18 (with oreilly's filter) intake fix here at post 5716 but for some reason the pictures are gone. Got a carspace here but haven't used it - may post these this weekend here at carspace. Google "Stan Wright" he acknowledged my idea and took it one more.

Funny but the lost forum is bringing this up again and still don't get it. I have no water, bugs, etc in my airbox and no hot radiator air from removing my intake tube without providing for the airbox not to suck hot post radiator air.

tired_old_dave

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/

keywestcrd

Hello everyone. I've been following this forum since 09/05 but this is my first post. I have a July 05 build date CRD w/6500 miles that had its first check engine light last week. Odometer code was P1104 and it is now in the shop for the second day of "diagnosis." Service Writer said it looks like an "egr/solenoid" (gee, go figure!). The dealership does not have much experience with the crd in this part of the country so this is a learning experience for them. I have tried to educate them on what I have learned from you good people but dealerships always seem resistant to customer input and we all know how backwards the people at STAR can be. Tried to look up the code (P1104)myself but it is a manufacture specific code not included in the standard OBD II system. I believe the code has something to do with fuel/air metering sensor. If anyone has any inputs it would be greatly appreciated. My highway mileage averages 30-31mpg before and after the MIL came on and city mpg averages ~17.

tomasz2

Mine is off-road 2006. I got 19 mpg in 90% city driving for the first 2000 miles. My CRD would get only 20 mpg, and diesel in here is higher than gas. So there was no real benefit. Perhaps it is how you drive.