Jeep Liberty Diesel

crdblazr

Before making conclusions based on a short sections of a 150-mile trip, be sure to also consider the grade/slope of the road during each section. It makes a huge difference, at least for me. I can get my EVIC to read 99 mpg at highway speeds while running down a decline with cruise control on. But you pay for it when powering up the next incline, which will bring your mpg average back down into the high 20's.

Also, I have found with my CRD that the acceleration portion of any trip uses a lot of fuel, which also really brings down the mpg average. After following the great advice in this forum, your best mileage will always be at constant speed on flat or downward sloping ground.

Last week I got an aggregate 25.5 mpg on a 500-mile loop across Texas, mostly highway speeds of 65-70 mph (calculated by hand). My best yet in 4,800 miles!

I ordered a Magnaflow muffler and once installed I'll report on any impact to my mileage.

modelaford

You are absolutely correct. What I left out, was that on the return trip, I applied the same approach, and then followed up with pencil/paper and hand calculated my mileage. All the way home I was careful to make sure that I was locked up, and it calculated out to 31.5 on the return trip.

boilermaker2

FWIW,

It took three trips and my check-engine light was rectified. The EGR and Mass Air Flow were replaced to the tune of $550 billed to DCX.

boilermaker2

Caribou1 might have already answered this so I apologize if this is a repeat question:

Has anyone who has run ULSD from their FIRST FILL-UP had to replace their EGR?

--Boiler

manley

I have a recall on my jeep.

Since I have not been at home, I did not actually read the recall but by wife said it was a body module.

Anyway. She took it to my ***** and when she got there they told her that they could not perform the recall because they didn't have to tools. If she left it they would have to keep it for a week.

They don't have the tools? Keep it for a week? What are they going to do to my jeep? Does anyone know what this recall is about or have you gotten the same run around. I was wondering if they were just feeding her a lot of crap to get her to go away because they were busy over the holiday weekend.

boilermaker2

I have an '05, March Build, and I just checked the jeep website to see if there we any recalls on my unit. There were not. I haven't had a single service that took over a day except for the EGR valve replacement which was on back-order at the time and took a bit more time.

By taking the last 8 characters of your VIN, you can see what the recall is at:
link http://www.jeep.com/owners/index.html

Click on "recall notices"

--Boiler

zachinmi

I just got home yesterday from a roughly 3800 mile trip in my CRD, from Michigan out to Colorado, and back via Duluth and the upper peninsula of Michigan. Great trip, and the CRD generally did very well. Mileage was as follows:

odometer/gallons/date/trip distance/mpg this tank

5952 17.462 06/26/06 459 26.3
6290 12.872 06/27/06 338 26.3
6642 14.829 06/27/06 352 23.7
7041 13.8866 06/28/06 399 28.7
7236 8.173 06/29/06 195 23.9
7607 13.847 06/30/06 371 26.8
7988 13.87 07/01/06 381 27.5
8261 10.818 07/01/06 273 25.2
8658 16.1186 07/02/06 397 24.6
8912 8.285 07/03/06 254 30.7

I will need to fill-up today and see if the 30.7 was a fluke or not (which would be indicated if I only get, say, 20mpg on this tank). As you can see, the mpg was pretty good, though most tanks were only right around the EPA rated 26mpg highway.

zachinmi

As I just posted, I just took the CRD on a 3800 mile trip to Colorado and back. I had a few problems and would like any comments people may have:

1) On I-70 in the Colorado mountains, coming back from Grand Junction (desert - 5000ft elevation) to Breckenridge (alpine valley - 9000+ft elev) we were going down a long incline around 11pm, with an air temp around 40 degrees, maybe less. After we exited the freeway into Frisco, we found almost no power from the engine. We could barely go 30mph up a hill that we had gone up at 50mph no problems the day before. This lasted all the way until we parked at the hotel. The problem disappeared the next morning when we left. However, I also added a fuel additive and more diesel shortly after we started that day. My theories are:
A) Fuel gelling. I'm sure I had summer diesel #2 in the tank since the last two fill-ups had been at warm, low altitude areas. The 40 degrees should not have been low enough for gelling, but I understand our CRD has a throttle body as part of the emissions controls, and maybe the lower pressure over that throttle reduced temperature in the intake below freezing and caused straight #2 diesel to reach its gelling temperature.
EGR valve failure. Symptoms don't match EGR failure and problem went away.
C) Turbo hose loose. Since problem went away, this is unlikely. I also checked all turbo hoses and all were tight.
Any other ideas???

2) At numerous times during the trip, but especially in the mountains, there was an exremely harsh upshift around 35mph (I think this is 3rd to 4th gear) which was jarring and not normal for the vehicle. Ideas?

3) Quite a number of times, but mostly in the last few days (low altitude, more humid air, mild temps, only two tanks of fuel) I had the infamous shuddering problem. Almost all of these were when I backed off the throttle after hard acceleration - either to pass another vehicle on a two-lane or to accelerate up a hill. It was quite severe and was not easy to get rid of - I had to add some throttle and back off multiple times to get it to go away. Fuel quality could be a factor as I used stations that I'm not familiar with (no choice being on a trip), but mpg seemed pretty good and there were no other fuel problem indicators. Ideas?

Overall the CRD performed quite well, returning 25+mpg on average, but all three of these problems together have me concerned.

On a sidenote, apart from the #1 problem, the CRD did very well in the mountains, even at over 10,000 feet. The turbo lag is far greater at 9000+feet, but full power is still there after the lag time. Brakes worked fine and engine braking was significant and useful on steep descents. Once reliability is there, the CRD would be a great choice for someone living high up in the mountains.

gob2

I have had a good experence with my crd, no egr replacement
25-29 mpg etc. I usually keep my vehicles 8-15 years and are concerned after warrenty. Does anyone know of a reasonable priced interface with the ECM, TCM? A few years from now dealers may try to recoup their training costs by
charging more for service. Without a second source to query
our controllers, the dealer has a monopoly.

dfens02

hello everyone, can anybody tell me the signs and symptoms of a blown head gasket.
I have a diesel van which is generating back pressure through the coolant system, could this be the problem?
thankyou in anticipation. :sick:

winter2

Blown head gasket signs can include lots of white smoke at startup, especially first start of the day. Also, a sweet smell or antifreeze odor to the exhaust is a possible sign. Having to add coolant to the overflow tank frequently is another sign (unless you have a bad hose somewhere), bubbles of gas entering the overflow tank, especially after shutdown.

winter2

Power loss problem from gelling fuel is possible at about 40 degrees. Also thinking about a trans issue from lots of shifting in the mountains that could cause the trans to get too hot and mimic power loss (could be wrong).

synlubes

my crd 2005 march build has had no problems other than egr vave at sixteen thousand miles milage not the best according to others about eighteen to nineteen miles per gallon in town about twenty four on the highway

zachinmi

Update: my last tank was 26.7mpg and was about 40% two-lane highway and 60% freeway at 70-75mph. It looks like the 30.7mpg tank was real or at least pretty close to real. Hooray for the mileage! Now, any ideas on those problems?

jimhemi

Had my done last week. Takes about a half hour. Mine is an 2006 with an Aug 2005 build date. It is because the 2006 has a glitch, RE: battery can drain down and not recharge. The only "Tools" they should have is a computer to hook up to your Jeep and re program the module.
Good luck, I left mine for the morning only because I didn't have the time for them to pull in and reflash the computer. Leaving it for a week seems pretty screwy

trigger6

Unfortunately yes. Our transmission feel apart at 10,000 miles. The dealer tore it down and Crysler siad to rebuild the trans. It ran fine intil today----8,000 miles later. And it again has gone belly up. We are beyond frustrated, but we were told that we were the only one this has happened to. We are now waiting to see what Chrysler plans to do. Please update the site on your resolution. Anyone else?

caribou1

2) At numerous times during the trip, but especially in the mountains, there was an exremely harsh upshift around 35mph (I think this is 3rd to 4th gear) which was jarring and not normal for the vehicle. Ideas?
I've experienced this as well on mountain roads. I think the transmission shifts immediately from 3rd to 4th gear because the egr is closed (engine is under load), so there is no delay, and the revs are high enough (above 1700) for the controller to skip the sequence that leaves the converter open. I usually leave the O/D out of the way in this case. You have to reduce or increase your speed in such a case. Always keep in mind the torque arrives rapidly in the low rpm and we don't have a tranny designed for mountain conditions. I would have preffered a shorter 3rd gear and and longer 4th. The same applies while driving at 35 mph (city speed limit here). I expect the 6 gear manual to be more adequate for this speed.

mdamick

Transmission died @ 28800. Rebuilt (torque converter, pump,cooler) and am now @ 43000 with no problems.

jimhemi

Husky Liners are the best. Custom molded, vehicle specific. Autoanything.com is a great place, best prices on the web. I have them in my Liberty, all seats. I use mine off road and the sand that they collect is easily lifted out with the shop vac. The rear cargo mat also protects against all of the sand and water collected from a day at the beach.

tired_old_dave

Didn't use my fumoto and adapter. Didn't like the brass hanging down. Used a 3"pvc plumbing part and two pieces of duct tape, my second factory drain plug for the drain plug. And used Sean's idea from the mechanics (a plastic container with the front cut off for the oil filter). Kept the oil from getting between the two part tranny skid.

farout

olegrizz: I saw no one replied to your post, so what the heck. I personally would not add anything to the oil on this CRD other than more oil as needed. Most any good Synsethic 0-40 or 5-40 is all you would be wise to use. Higher weight oil is proven to cause problems. Now in fairness to those who say I do not know a hole in the ground from my, well you get the idea. Some here use 15-40 which is too thick and they will say it runs quieter, and heck if that's what makes them happy it's ok by me. Hope this helps or maybe it will get you really confused.

Farout

farout

I tried my first tank of MFA B-5, it was not a good experience! CRD ran rough and we got a big huge 20 mpg! Now I have never considered MFA fuel anything but cheap gas, and now I feel the same about MFA's B-5 diesel. Still no ULSD in our parts, yet. But heck who cares with these "Test market" CRD's we can run forever on this low cetane high sulfer diesel.
Dr.Z has not answered my question yet.
I wonder why? I now have 16,200 miles. I find myself wondering how much longer before some typical thing goes out, you know EGR or Trans or ...... whatever. Maybe I got a good one that was made on a Tues. morning when everyone was happy on June 14, 2005 of last year. I wonder what day the 14th was in 05?
Just for the heck of it can most of you burn rubber when you punch it to the floor? I can with no effort at all. But because I buy my own tires I don't do that too much. Just when a gas Liberty is next to me, and I feel I want to make him think he has a lemon of a gas Liberty.
Buy the way when are we to get this super ULSD?

Farout

winter2

Is the 15W-40 too thick? I suggest you look at the specs for Amsoil 15W-40 and compare it to Mobil 1 5W-40 and Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic. You will find the Amsoil has the same flow characteristics of these oils.

farout

caribou1: May I ask what brand and weight of oil you and most CRD owners us as far as you know of.
Are you not happy us "test market" high sulfer, low cetane owners have proven these CRD's will endure this USA diesel, so you in France won't have to go into all this EGR replacement? Is your Trans a 5 or 4 speed Automatic?
At least your soccer team did a lot better than ours did......ouch!

Farout

zachinmi

Who is MFA? I've never heard of them.

My CRD is happier on B20 than anything else, but the two stations from which I buy B20 seem to be blending it with quality, clean, fresh petrodiesel. My CRD seems quite fuel sensitive and when I'm not using B20, it runs much better on two brands of premium diesel (BPAmoco and Meijer; Meijer is a midwest grocery store chain) than on any other brands or "regular" diesel.

I can just barely squeak the tires if I floor it from a stop. It accelerates very well, and I hardly ever floor it from a stop - maybe once a month at most. I will say that if you've never floored it, you probably think the CRD is much more sluggish than it is. The more I drive back to back with my Ram/Cummins the more I notice the non-linear and slow throttle response for the CRD when it is driven sedately. The Ram/Cummins is smooth and extremely linear, but never very fast.

tired_old_dave

Did you take your crd in. I'm guessing that if you did your ball joints are okay.

When we first drove ours in Feb. '05, pressing the accelrator did nothing and then full turbo kick in and afterburner acceleration. Those does are gone now with all the tsb's.

Today, put a whole bottle of redline catalyst in the fuel and repeated our recent drive but only with the evic. Fuel additive, tranny adapting, whatever. Reset evic and with evic readout only, drove out on the highway cruise at 65 mph but overdrive off, 2850 rpms and evic bounced between 23.7 and 24.5 mpg. Reset evic for return trip with O/D on 65 mph cruise on. Evic steadily climbed and bounced between 27.9 and 28.3. Now I am totally confused.

tired_old_dave

Thanks for the cummins comparison. We test drove a 2500 2004.5 dodge and all we remember is constant throw yourself in the seat linear response from the accelerator pedal. Accidently pulled out in front of a herd coming from behind a blind curve, pushed the accelerator and we were gone down the highway. Chipped and flow mods, some guys said they easily get low to mid-twenties from a 3500 and wondered why we bothered with a little crd.

The non-linear, I think was explained by caribou1 early last year as the potentiometer for an accelerator pedal. When bought and until the first tsb, we could depress the accelerator watch the green light and wait for the response which was the afterburner kicking in effect.

zachinmi

No problem. I'm finding it quite interesting having both around. I do not find the Dodge particularly fast, despite having the 325hp rated engine. 4wd may be slowing it down a bit, but still, it's not fast. It makes very impressive noises though, and it barely slows down when a 5000lb trailer is hitched to it. I liken it to a locomotive the way it is sedate but smooth and linear. Our best tank so far on the Dodge is 19.5mpg, awfully good considering it has twice the displacement, power and torque of the CRD, and is more than 50% heavier. I keep asking myself whether I should just replace the CRD with another Ram/Cummins. I have heard the claims of low to mid 20's mpg and am a bit skeptical, but time will tell. We typically get 17-18.5mpg freeway and 12-15 around town, which is low in absolute terms but great for such a large and heavy truck.

Oh, to top it off, the Cummins for 2006 does not have an EGR valve (looks like it will for 2007, sigh) nor glowplugs* and is fairly insensitive to fuel quality, unlike the CRD. (* in case you're wondering, it has manifold heaters instead of glowplugs)

nescosmo

Farout.... 15w-40 is a good oil and it will cause no harm to the CRD. I personally use 5w-40 is cheap and easy to find.
When I change the oil from 0w-40 to 5w-40 the engine was running a lot quieter than with 0w-40, maybe because the oil was thicker.
The other day I bought a CM filter 25-462 well known in the speed world; they have very high oil flow and filter down to 8 micron.
My CRD run with it very well but is noisy as it was with the 0w-40 but my mileage went up 3 mph.( from 25 to 28 and counting). I think the oil flow is so great that the engine run smoother that before but one thing for sure is that I have a better oil flow and the engine will last me longer without problem.

caribou1

hi farout,
I now use Shell Rotella 5W-40. My dealership provided Yacco 5W-40 and I saw no difference between the two brands. There is still something I can't explain about mileage variations: I get the best mileage when buying fuel from shopping mall filling stations :confuse: and I just don't know what I'm buying :sick:
Concerning egr problems, I'm out of the game... This morning I was following a MB ML270CDI that produced lots of black smoke when accelerating from customs lines getting on the motorway, so I floored mine to stay away from his puff and I sent quite a lot of light brown smog for a few seconds. All this to say that I doubt LSD or ULSD will solve the egr problem. He had a new one, I have none
My transmission is a flawless 5 speed automatic, 462RLE if I remember correctly. I read somewhere it's what you should be getting soon.
By the way, my truck was assembled in April 2003. I'm close to 50,000 miles with ZERO defect apart from the mechanical fan clutch that had too much play from the beginning and the egr valve I put aside...
This is the best vehicle I owned in 38 years :shades:

dfens02

thanks for the advice I will check it out.

jimhemi

Seeing all of the debate with Biodiesel and additives I cannot sit on the side lines any longer. Most of my driving is city. I get 18.5 around town. I drive her like a rented mule often flooring it from many a dead stops. I can't spin the tires because my 2006 has traction control and that kicks in taking the fun away
I have run only Mobil One 0W-40, only because I can't find the 5W-40. Odometer reads close to 5,500. Have changed the oil twice, keeping up with the extreme driving conditions as mentioned in the book. (I use my Jeep on the beach quite often,sandy/dusty conditions, many short trips, stop and go driving, every 3,100 miles)
Fuel additives: Lucas fuel treatment at every fill up. On some recent long trips I have gotten a best of 29mpg while most are in the high 26 range. I do not use cruise control or putz along at 65. I am usually heavy on the gas, in the left lane at 75-80 hoping that Mr. State Trooper doesn't jump out of no where.
If you haven't tried the Lucas fuel treatment I highly recommend it. I have tried the Cetane Boosters from other companies and they have done little to boost the mpg. A Big bottle will set you back about $8 and last for quite some time. Those are my 2cents.
As far as problems, the trans shifts like a paddle in a septic tank and I had it into the dealer for a recall on the 06 Model for the Module Reflash. The dealer I took it to didn't know anything about the infamous "trans shudder" and said I would need to leave the Jeep there for an extended period so they may diagnose the problem. I said "I can take you out of the parking lot and show you" but they don't like customer input. I'll just wait for it to grenade itself and get the whole thing rebuilt. I figure then they can truly diagnose the problem. Happy Motoring :shades:

tired_old_dave

Congratulations on getting a good one.

It seems the crd is cleaner than the MB with your smoke report. Since your turbo hose sweats, I assume you have oil in your cac and intake. But with a bigger intake than a vw, you may never have a problem.

tired_old_dave

Don't want to nag, 18,000 miles of 0w40-took off the turbo hose to the intake and liquid oil came out(slants downhill) and the throttle plate that is failing for some was dripping in oil and coated with goo. Old t-shirt underneath the downward sloping stub tube and simple greened the hell out of it and all the intake I could get my fingers into. Then wiped it off with another old t-shirt. Cleaned the inside of both hoses as best as possible with simple green.

The turbo hose picture shows the crap on the replacement hose and the missing rubber sleeve broke while the new bottom part of the airbox was replaced.

tired_old_dave

I posted about PRI-D, a product seen at Camping World and got no takers to chime in while lost. When I bought the redline catalyst additive, saw a bottle from chevron? also claiming to be a complete combustion additive added immediately before filling for a molecular action on the fuel.

If you read my posts, when travelling we keep up with the herd. And while the arrows tell me where the action is, I try not to be the point man - short life.

Gas can be additive blended per individual request before a tanker leaves the tank farm. Diesel is not. Everyone gets the closest refinery's output. The only difference is if it was adulterated (which apparently is allowed) or not. Maybe our new standards for sulfur and labels at the pump will get us all good unadulterated diesel. Someone posted about a cetane test of fuels near a big mid-west dealer. Mixed together the cetane rating was 38? - well below the presumed 40-42? everyone talks about. And well below the 49 cetane some have access to.

caribou1

I can't spin the tires because my 2006 has traction control and that kicks in taking the fun away
Have you tried doing a fast take-off when the permanent mode 4WD is engaged? You won't burn rubber, but in two second you'll be way, way ahead of those who spin their tires :shades:

texcrd06

I have one question....where are you finding 5w-40. I cannot find it anywhere. We live in Texas and I have tried both Oreilly and Autozone and the closest they have is 5w-30. What gives? Am I just not looking in the right place? :confuse: ">

caribou1

I've not touched my air intake line besides checking for loose clamps. Most turbo diesels have oily hoses so I accept that.

An oily/sooty deposit could build-up on the intake pressure and temperature sensor. I can imagine that being a source of error for the ECU leading to poor mileage.

Besides poor quality fuel not giving the expected angular acceleration to the engine and a slower (delayed) response from the 'coated' pressure and temperature sensor affecting the fuel-air mixture, I don't see what could go wrong. Remember we have no flywheel inertia anymore...

I've seen dirty air filters not affecting performance due to the nature of the trapped dirt. We seldom have the very fine dust that penetrates everywhere, like the red stuff you collect when driving through the Monument Valley. I usually have insects and leaves, sometimes bird feathers, once a mouse, but no flour textured dust. In my case I leave aside the idea of the airfilter affecting performance: I vacuum clean the folds, the airfilter housing and check for cracks looking towards a light source.

crdblazr

This week I came across a 5-quart jug of Mobile 5W-40 at a Walmart here in San Antonio. It was the only one on the shelf, and at checkout it rang up at $13. I would have bought lots more if they had it!

tired_old_dave

email mobil. The response will be ~August at Auto Zone. Probably reformulated for the new cj classification. They said to find (remaining?) 5w40 under its other badging delvac or something.

tired_old_dave

The mass airflow sensor is post air filter and pre turbo. From my air filter to the turbo there is not even dust in the tube. My airbox is clean and my air filter looks almost brand new after k's of miles. My air box mod reduces the high vacuum (by increasing intake area) and highway scrubbing effect of the stock intake right above the bumper (crd's can't ford as high as the gassers?).

If there is a sensor in the intake port with the throttle valve, it is now clean from the simple green. I'm guessing that oil from the ccv (and turbo cooling oil? from dirty air filters from vacuuming the highway) is one cause of the egr failure codes thrown. The oil and goo and tar might be too much for the solenoid to overcome to partially close the throttle to let more egr gasses in. Failure throws the code because egr gasses cannot be added to the fresh air intake. That's why the mileage goes up with a cel. Failure is a good thing in that it keeps egr gasses out. If it is running good and the cel is on and the egr is not an early one or has high miles, maybe it is better to leave things alone until inspection time. Of course, if it can't function as an anti-shudder valve then shut down could be not so smooth.

farout

caribou1: Thanks for the reply. I think we are expecting too much form this ULSD, I don't think it will make much of a difference. I also am using Rotella 5-40, because I can get this oil at many places, but 0-40 is very hard to fins where I live. I now have 16,400 miles and so far my problems were related to the PCM, which they replaced, and from then on my issues seem to have gone with the wind.
I am encouraged by how many miles you have on your. What do you expect your CRD to run till, like 200,000 miles?
Thanks again, it's always good to hear from your side of the pond.

Farout

farout

zachinmi: Missouri Farmers Association. I am pretty sure it's just in Missouri.
If I punch mine it has a short lag and then it takes off like a rabbit. I have the wider 245 70 16 on and when I had the cheap factory tires it was even more so. I do floor it from time to time, I have never seen brown or black smoke, a misty light gray when starting it in the winter.

Farout

farout

winter2: If there is any way for Jeep to find that the oil you use is not inthe limits DCX sets then I would be out of luck with the warranty. I have nothing for or against any oil anyone wants to use, I just think V M Motori knows their engines better than I do, so I will stick with the 5-40, and if it has problems then someone other than me will pay for the repair. By diesel engine standards this CRD is a small engine, so it better stand up to some good service.

farout

winter2

I think we are expecting too much form this ULSD, I don't think it will make much of a difference.

With ULSD, will come s few things that will greatly aid engine and EGR valve life. The lower the sulfur, the better. Less sulfur, less PM, less corrosive emissions like the precursors of sulfuric acid. Also coming with USLD will be higher cetane. Higher cetane means a faster and cleaner burn. In the process of making USLD, certain aromatic compounds are removed, that when burned reduce cetane, increase PM.

If you put this all together, it adds up to longer EGR life and longer engine life.

winter2

Farout,

If you read what the owners manual states, it uses the word recommended when it talks about oil. If there is a problem with the engine, and you are using a different viscosity range other than what DCX recommends, then the onus is on DCX to prove that the oil caused the failure.

Again, I suggest you look at the specs for Mobil 1, Shell, and Amsoil, 5W-40's and 15W-40 respectively. You will find that they are so close, that the engine probably does not know the difference.

As to the CRD engine being considered a small diesel, okay, I will give you that, but there are some big diesel concepts in this engine so it will stand up and give you good service so long as you give it reasonable care.

Let me include some specs here.

Amsoil 15W-40 90.8, 14.4, 164
Rotella 5W-40 90, 15, 176
Mobil 1 5W-40 102, 14.8, 151

First two columns are ASTM-445 at 40 and 100 celsius. Third column is ASTM-2270. Note how similar they are.

whlpny

Hi Guys, I am from mid Mich. and have read alot of the previous posts here over the last few weeks. I currently have an 03 Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 with the Hemi in it. IT runs and tows like a bear,but I am so fed up with the amount of gas it uses that I am ready to make a change. The CRD is very tempting, but hate to buy a vehicle that I know is going to give me problems. Sounds like the EGR failing is just a given on them. Any idea if these last ones available would have an updated valve in them? My other main issue is the ball joint recall- I don't see anything where they have closed that recall case- are the 06's safe? I work for a major steering component manufacturer- and from experience I know that these things can go on for many years before being rectified completely.
The fuel mileage would be great for me coming up from a truck that runs 13- 15mpg in my driving conditions. I would love a cummins Dodge, but the price is just outa reach and i think the fuel useage for my driving wouldnt be much better than where I am now. I really need to make a decision soon to get the good pricing. I see a few CRDS down near Detroit available yet. CAnt find anything up near Lansing- GR area.

Thanks for any input-
Bob in Mich.

farout

whlpny: Welcome to the Liberty CRD forum. Not all CRD owners have had EGR problems. It's a fluke as to whom or when the EGR demon strikes. Remember that of all 11,000 CRD's made in 05 & 06 you are only seeing just a scant few here. The engine is strong and proven for many years, I doubt that would ever be an isssue. If you are considering a CRD do not depend upon getting 24 mpg all the time. Several of us report that in stop and go or hills and winding roads expect 20 to 23, with some as low as 19 and others as high as 24. On a trip some have said like 24 mpg to 30 mpg. I do not know that ball joints are anything more than a person should watch for unsual ware, to a sloppy wheel. The ball joints do not have a zerk fitting and there lies the problem from my standpoint.
In Missouri CRDs are getting fewer and the choice is becoming limited. The 05's have a 7 year 70,000 mile power train warranty the 06 has 3 years or 36,000 mile warranty. I chose a 05 last Sept. 29. Hope this answers your questions, and good luck.

Farout

tired_old_dave

Please critique redline
40* C-----97
100* C---14.5
VI----------155

Can you confirm what I heard (but did not see) - LBJ replacements come in boxes labeled MOOG.

whlpny

Farout- thanks for your quick reply. I guess you make a good point about the percent of owners that I am viewing here. The few salesmen that I have talked to act clueless on the EGR- of course they just want the sale.
At this point, I would be very happy at 19mpg and anything after that would reassure me that I did the right thing. I just put another $50 bill in the quad cab gas tank tonight- its depressing.
I would say the ball joints not having a zert in them could be a big issue. We have a 2001 Hyundai, and the 2003 Dodge truck and both have what the steering industry calls" grease for life"-- no zerts. We build class 5 and up steering sockets and tierod assemblies at work - there are some big trucks out there that are of that technology now. I think its bad- those pcs need fresh grease. If I buy a CRD I will drill the caps and put zerts in just for piece of mind since I know they could be an issue. Was always gonna do it on my truck but never did. It would be cheap insurance.
Guess I'll go out and try a test drive and see how the CRD feels and go from there. I need to tow 3,000lbs about 4 times a summer- looks like they should be capable. I just need to make sure it has a tow package. I will also get the extended warranty- It has proved it pays with this truck I have.

Thanks, Bob