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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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  • I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • stan7stan7 Posts: 7
    It was slammed shut and now the drivers side won't disengage. The right side does. How can I fix this? I guess I need access to the lock thru removing interior panels? What do I do when I access the lock? See if it's broken? Stuck? Haven't even tried yet. Easy to do? Two body guys said they won't touch it.....
  • stan7stan7 Posts: 7
    My 2000 had this happen over 2-years ago. Have to pull it up by hand while the window motor is running. Cleaning and silconing the side tracks helped but I think that when the window encounters any resistance, it stops - that's why it stops when the window stops when it hits the top of the door...anyway, I just live with it. Yet another problem with the Astro....
  • I asked the window question in Oct 2005 and never received a reply until now. I ended up doing the window motor repair myself.

    I pulled the door panel off and then drilled out the rivets holding the motor and removed just the motor. I purchased a new motor from a local auto parts store and installed it using sheet metal screws. Sounds simple but it did take some thinking on how to handle this.

    The old motor still worked but obviously had some bad gear teeth inside as it would only move the window a few inches up and down, leaving the window about 8 inches from the top.

    The cost of the motor was about $70.00
  • :cry: I recently was driving my 87 Astro and it stalled while at a stop. I restarted it and it would not move faster then a crawl while feathering the gas. I managed to park it and turn it off. After restarting it, it seemed to run fine, until I put it back into gear, then the engine continued to bog and sputter, unless I was feathering the gas to keep it running. The books and online sources state it could be a vacuum leak, but after checking the engine I'm not finding and leaks.
    Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong with it?
  • keshbkeshb Posts: 1
    High speed inline fuse is located behind the battery .
  • 99si99si Posts: 2
    Ive had the same problem turned out to be the mass airflow sensor
  • 99si99si Posts: 2
    hello so.. ive replaced the fuel pump and controll module ,i get 45 lbs of gas at the shrader valve and have spark,its yello not blue,wondering why it wont start?? knock sensor?new coil?? not sure.

    please help somebody!!!
    :cry:
  • I went out to start this van the other day. It would turn over fine but wouldn't start. It had been running fine for the last 3 months since I bought it. I tried starting it until I killed the battery and it wouldn't even try to start. I had a friend who is a mechanic look at it. He checked the fuel pressure, "55-63", he also checked every spark plug with a light. Every plug is firing. So, I have good fuel pressure and the plugs are firing. This makes no sense to me. This van was running perfect and was not giving me any reason to think something was wrong. Any ideas. Thanks.
  • This may not help but I have a 96 safari (134k) that does the same thing on cold damp days, usually raining and or snowing. Go to start it first thing in the morning and the engine cranks over fine but won't start. I found that when the vehicle is moved inside to warm-up and dry out (like in a shop) It will then start up like nothing was ever wrong, and continue to run fine till the next time the weather turns cold and damp. The dealership put in a new fuel pump, did not help. Last week it failed to start, I pulled the engine cover and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, so far so good.
  • Yep me too. I also have a 96 Astro (312K) and thats what I did, changed the cap and rotor and I to am so far so good.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    And my daughter loves her 1991 Astro with all the interior volume. Her main dislike is the very limited foot and leg space for the front passenger and the fact that the van is getting old. It was "well used" when she purchased it about 5 years ago after her 1989 Plymouth Voyager was totalled when the other driver ran into her van in an intersection striking the Voyager at the left front wheel.
    A FWD vehicle does not have to be very old to be totalled in a collision when a driving wheel is struck from the side. :cry:
  • hello everyone. i took my safari in for emissions testing yesterday and they said the idle was 1390 rpm. they won't test anything higher than 1100 rpm. my question is.... how do i lower the idle?? any suggestions or advice would be very helpful. thanks..
  • I recently purchased a 99 Astro with only 42K mles and the Dutch Door option. I really didn't want the Dutch doors, but it's what it had. Looks like I was right. Less than 2 weeks ownership, and the upper portion won't open. It makes all the sounds, like you can hear what seems to be the mechanism working inside the door, but no go.

    I read a bunch of other messages here about similar problems, but none seem to address mine directly.

    Any suggestions? I can't even see any way to get into the mechanism from the inside - there doesn't appear to be any way to get the inside panels off while the door is closed. Is a dealer shop going to be able to help me without damaging something? I've got a bunch of stuff that I really need to get out!

    Thanks for any info - John
  • Well, I managed to get the trim piece off from the inside, though it meant cracking it where the two upper side screw were, since you can't get to those unless the door is open, (bad design!). I was then able to see where the little plastic connector/holders that hold the outside ends of the release rods to the actual latches had broken on both ends. Hopefully I can get just these from Checy parts. (Why'd they make them plastic, anyway??). I really can't figure how both of them broke at once - maybe when I see what the whole part looks like it will make sense.

    John
  • dexguydexguy Posts: 3
    i have a 92 safari awd. the idle is way too high, any ideas on how to get it back down where it belongs?. i also have that problem with the rear hatch glass not wanting to open. but one thing at a time.
  • xboxxbox Posts: 2
    I had the smae problem with my 97 Safari (25000 KLM).Just changed plug,dist.cap and plugs. After that on problems. :blush:
  • If you have the 4.3 motor, check the thin gasket at the base of the throttle body. I have an 89 s-10 with a 4.3 and it idled like a jet. I replaced the <$10 gasket myself and fixed it. Pretty simple repair, less than an hour, no special tools
  • I had the runblestrip noise at about the same speeds. I went through several service trips until I finally got the GM Factory "Expert" in my van. Drive the vehicle up to just below where the vibration occurs, lightly, just enough to turn on the brake lights, step on the brake and accelerate smoothly past the vibration speed. If the vibration does not occur it is your torque converter. The expert says the torque converter is shuddering instead of locking in. The torque converter is locked out when the brake cicuit is engaged. My vehicle was under warranty for my repair and the problem was resolved.
  • I had a similar problem. The rod that releases the driver's side came off at the center pivot point. I was able to fix the problem by the following:
    (from the inside):
    I removed the handle from the back lid. There are plastic covers on each side of the handle that cover the bolts. I removed these. Then I removed the bolts. There was a larger plastic piece behind the handle that also came off once these bolts were removed. I was able to see the pivot point. The bottom of the pivot had a hole in it where the rod was suppose to be. It was tight quarters, but I felt inside the opening for the rod with my finger and was able to pull/push it to release the driver's side. With the passenger side already released and the diver's side now released, I was able to open the lid. At this point I found it easier to stand outside and fix the problem.
    (from the outside):
    I had to fish the rod back into the hole in the pivot. There is a shoulder/ridge on the tip of the rod where some sort of clip should be put after the rod is back into the hole. I used a small plastic tie wrap instead and fished it through the hole and around the rod. It seems to work pretty good, however, you may want to get a new clip instead. But good luck trying to get it back on (on the backside). There just isn't much room to work.

    Good luck, if you haven't already found the solution.
  • dexguydexguy Posts: 3
    i was able to get the idle back down to 800 rpm. it had a vacuum leak. now it runs alot better. i was surprised to find out that i have a 27 gallon gas tank. made it from seattle to northern california on 1 tank. los angeles on 2 tanks..
  • yamyyamy Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Safari that has the security light come on from time to time. Some times when I start it, it will come on and stay on. Other times I will start it an it will be off and come on later as I am driving it. And sometimes it will go off as I am driving it. I have no drive ability problems when it is running. But sometimes when I go to crank it,it will run for a second and die out. If I wait for 10 minutes it will start up with no problem. This no start or stall may happen a couple times in a day and other times go for 3-4 weeks and not happen but the light may come and go during those weeks.
  • tkwtkw Posts: 29
    My 98 Safari's power door lock at the back door & sliding door seems to stick occasionally. I can hear the clicking of the solenoid but it didn't open the latch. In the case of the back door, it can be open to the 1st latching position but stuck at the secondary latching position. Both doors can be opened manually with key. Any idea? Would a little WD40 help?
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Finnaly found the location of the tsu sensor. Near and to the bottom left of the thermostat goose neck. We replaced it and the thermostat but that did not solve the continuse loping as if the throttle was allowing too much fuel erractly.So that's where we stand. Gas metering problem with curb idling thrown in. Anyone have a suggestion what to do next? Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    The going thing now in my book is white lithium spray grease. Good for most applications. Will stay with place applied. Bozie
  • Still having problems finding info on my 87 Astro. I was recently able to get her started after replacing the fuel pressure regulator, but she still doesn't run right. While in gear she is TERRIBLY sluggish, and feels like the power is not there. The tranny doesn't seem to be the problem. So I'm left with the engine. While inspecting the engine and the TBI, I noticed a small vacuum inlet coming out of the intake manifold with nothing connected to it. I'm not the first owner of this van, and it's pretty obvious someone wasn't sure what was going on with the vacuum system. Does anyone have any idea what the mystery vacuum port is, how I would reroute all the vacuum lines correctly, or why she's still not running correctly otherwise?
    It is an 87 Chevy Astro, 4.3L V6, with a 220 TBI. I'm not sure what the year of the engine is as it was a rebuilt installed before I ever saw the van, but it looks like a 87-88 to me. Any info would help at this point....THANKS!!!
  • Check resistor board which is located behind fluid reservoirs to the right from blower motor. Disconnect plug, undo two screws and pull out the board. I had mine fixed couple of times already. You can fix it by resoldering burnt paths or replace the board.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    And now has 212,727 miles on the odometer. I offered to loan her our 2002 T&C for a 900 mile trip next weekend. She, her husband, and their children love their Astro so she may decline the offer.
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