Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier

adg44

VW's just need a little more love.

blueguydotcom

and patience.

Own a german car and you end up with a feeling that nobody can engineer them like the folks in Deutschland.

They may have weird quirks and require expensive maintenance but they've got different DNA than American/Japanese cars.

venus537

well the tsx does in terms of that ingot-solid-on road feel. interesting enough all it is an european accord.

firstbuyer1

I am have left a $500 deposit with a VW dealer for a 03' Jetta GLS. After coming home and reading the bad reviews about the Jetta GLS - I am worried that I have meade the wrong decesion.

Have tried the Mazda 5 and the Jetta. Please help there must be some VW owners there with good experiences with the Jetta.

I will need to call the VW dealer tommorrow to tell him that I am backing out and hold the cheque.

Am relying on opinions from here since I do not have any other source of reviews.

Must add that I am looking for a reliable car that gives me 5-6 years of trouble free operation, since I do not have the big $$$.

Thanks and please send me your responses soon.

elfy6x

I just wanted to say thanks guys for the help. I guess reliability and boring go hand in hand sometimes. I must say, I love that Jetta though. It's a blast to drive.

ray127

If you are looking for a 5-6 year of trouble free car, the Jetta is not what you want. You could spend a little more money with a Passat, which has less complaint and a better build quality. Or you could get a Golf. Just get the one that are German made, which fortunately, is the same price as the non-German made ones.

rc7762

You heard the phrase "If you can't do the time don't do the crime" well "If you can't afford large repair bills don't get a VW" Yes you will get a warranty and you might want to read the posts on VW warranties, what they seem to think is "normal" I would call problems for instance oil consumption to VW burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles is normal!! Someone just posted that VW quoted $450 to replace brakes, I had a starter replaced (60,000 miles to me that is not normal!) $275 for just the starter no labor included. I am a firm believer in driving what you like but if cost is a concern, then you really need to research what you are planning to buy and I think you are very smart in doing your car homework before you make the commitment. No matter what your decision I hope it's the best car you ever buy.

Good luck

vocus

I have to wholeheartedly agree with your statement about German cars. I haven't driven an American or Asian built car yet that has the 'feel' of a German one. It's just a heavier, more solid feel overall.

From experience, German cars will cost more to have maintained, the parts are harder to find and more expensive, and it seems that they require special training to work on as well (from my experience, like I said). They are worth it in every mile though.

fish8

How much is a rear brake job. Which includes new rotors and pads on a 1999.5 Jetta? Someone I know was charged $373 for it from a VW dealer.

moparbad

Mintex pads are $35.00
Rotors are $40.00
OEM pads are $57.00
labor at $70.00 per hour and two hours work $140.00 (I'm being very generous here)

Total $215.00

Do it yourself for under $100. Have a knowledgeable friend do the work and pay them $50 and you will still be under $150.

fish8

Thanks Mopar....good info

splitload

I don't know for sure but if the car has 4 wheel anti-lock brakes the rotors will be much more expensive.

adg44

The fact that it has ABS is irrelevant to the price of the rotors.

ATE rotors (OEM) from germanautoparts.com are roughly $20 each for the rears. Pads were about $50 as mopar pointed out for ATE pads (OEM) and there ya go, $90 for rear rotors and pads. The fronts are about a total of $100 more, so about $200 with shipping if I remember correctly when I changed the pads on my sisters Beetle (same as Jetta) last year.

Get a rear piston compressor tool for about $40 and you are set. A standard C-Clamp will work for the front pads.

- Anthony

dancerman

There is a recent message on the Jetta Problems discussion that says you need a special tool for compressing the front caliper piston and not for the back. Message above says opposite. Both are 1999 Jetta. Who's right? I have a 2002 Jetta. Is it the same design?

adg44

The front piston can be compressed with a C-Clamp. The rear needs a special tool that turns the piston while compressing it, like a screw.

Here is a pic of the tool when I used it on my Audi rear brakes (which are almost identical to the Jettta rear brakes). I think they are actually the same calipers, actually I know they are, because they take the same pads. I was installing Porterfield R4-S (street) they are AP 340T.

Here is a picture of the tool you need....

I have a whole detailed write up and pictorcal how-to, but it isn't on this site, but "another" site which I can't link to. So if you want it, just drop me an e-mail at adg44@earthlink.net.

dancerman

Good info. I can't see paying the dealer (or anybody else) to do a brake job. I've done many but never VW. I just wanted to make sure it's the rear piston that needs the special treatment. Like I said... some dude told us it's the front piston in the Jetta Problems discussion.

bpeebles

that dude in the Jetta Problems discussion was having problems ;-)

It is pretty much common knowledge that it is the calipers with the intregal parking brake that require 'screwing down'. Thus... most rear DISK brakes need to be 'screwed down'. (Drum brakes also need to be 'screwed down' using a different type of mecanism. Older VWs used a spring-loaded wedge that needed to be 'unloaded'.)

I have never seen FRONT calipers that cannot be compressed with a C-clamp or large pliers.

BEWARE: Some ABS hydrolic systems need to be 'adjusted' before compressing the calipers. It depends on the complexity of the ABS system. Some have a little 'lever' on one of the ABS controller units that has to be slid to a specific (bleed) position before hydrolic fluid can be forced 'backwards' into the resivour.

bpeebles

How do you place an inline photo on the edmunds forums????

I have been using edmunds for YEARS and have only seen it done twice. I usually just link a photo on my website.

please explain how to do it 8-)

pat

KarenS "Volkswagen Owners: Photo Gallery" Jan 21, 2002 12:09pm

chrison

Hi guys,

Hope my experience helps...

I got a 02 Jetta GLS with 1.8T in June 2002. It's indeed a very nice car, with its powerful 1.8 T engine and responsive but not so smooth 5 speed Tiptronic, excellent fit and finish, boat load of safety gears... However:

Since June 2002, the ignition coil has been replaced three times (in one of the occasions i needed call the tow truck) ... one of the tweeters was shot for no reason, and just today, the car couldn't start again and i needed to call the truck... I turned out to be the 10.7 V battery (a dead battery in just 15 months... make me wonder about its building quality). I am still wondering if I could be compensated by VW for all the hassles I have gone through. I love my Jetta as a driver, but despise it as the owner...

Chrison

bpeebles

I must be thick... it is just straight HTML code. I thought when the UNORDERD LISTS stopped working that the IMG= was broken too.

now .... if we can get the UNORDERD LISTS working again.... 8-)

pat

For some reason, they did disable a lot of html coding that used to work here. If you want, you can ask about it in the "Our Software" discussion over on the News & Views board.

cmfos

Not trying to pile on, but as an owner of a 2000 Jetta 1.8T, I am becoming more discouraged by the VW philosophy more than the car itself.

Latest - at 63,000 mi, I had to replace the brake pads AND ROTORS to the tune of 385.00. The rotors weren't damaged, they are just considered wear parts. "Mild Steel and such B.S." FYI, my Honda and Toyota went 150k miles+ without ever replacing rotors. This car is too young to be having this type of problem.

Washed the key fob - $180.00 to replace.

VW platinum tip spark plugs $25.00 EACH (yes, I found the same ones at Autozone, $4.00 ea.). And as I recall, the air filter is somewhere around $40.00.

Also the engine compartment of the turbo gets extremely hot - No wonder the serpentine belt is cracking ($180.00). I am sure the hoses are next.

All that being said, the car is fun - and the fit and finish is unbeatable for the price. I regret buying it however.

Back to my boring Honda/Toyota. At least I get raped less frequently.

fish8

Those costs seem outrageous to me as well. Maybe you should find and independent auto shop that can work on German cars. that would safe you some $$.

perna

That's horrible - I can buy Nissan-brand (NKG, actually) platinum spark plugs all day long from my dealer for $9 or so. Still a rip, but holy cow, $25???

$180 is expensive for that serpentine belt, but speaking as someone who has replaced them before, it is a total PITA. Not $180, but I'd pay someone $100 to do mine next time.

mjltennis15

Does anyone know how fast the '02 Jetta GLS 2.0L sedan with automatic transmission can go? I read somewhere that the manual has a top speed of 113 mph.

garrettmc

I'm interested in a 2004 Jetta Wagon GL TDI manual with no options, or perhaps ESP.

There are a few in my region (within 300 miles of Moscow, Idaho) I have been quoted a price of $20,045 from pignatarovw.com in Everett, WA.

Does this sound reasonable?

What other quotes are people getting?

Also, ESP is not available on any of the GL's in the region. IS ESP being phased out of the GL's? Does ESP give the car that noticable of an improvement?

Thanks for responding.

Garrett

bpeebles

I connot comment on the price since they are so locale-dependant.

I orderd ESP to give my wife peace-of-mind while driving in the snow. I cannot forsee any other times it would be needed. (normal driving conditions.)

Here are some websites that explain ESP in more detail;
http://www.kraftfahrzeugtechnik-heute.de/k/en/esp/index.jsp
http://www.autoweb.com.au/cms/news/newsarticle.html?&id=MER&a- mp;a- mp;a- mp;doc=mer0011291
http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continentalteves/- - - continentalteves/themes/products/electronic_brake_systems/abs_tcs- - - _esp/esp_0702_en.html

Were you aware that the 2004 TDIs have the new PD engine? (Pump Duse (sp?)) The PD TDI engine is first new generation of TDI to be seen in North America in almost 10 years.

fish8

I have also heard that the top speed for the 2.0 is somewhere near 115. I have gotten my 2.0 up to about 100mph and it was very smooth. It felt like it could go much much higher.

vocus

Much, much higher eh? Not without coming through the firewall.

Just kidding. Actually the 2.slow (sorry) is not as bad an engine as everyone makes it out to be. It's the smoothest basic 4 I have driven in a small car (PT included). It gets the same economy (almost) as the 1.8T though, so why not go from 115 to 180hp and add traction control for like $2000?

fish8

There are 2 things I am not crazy about with regards to the 2.0.

1- The RPM's at speed tend to get a little too loud.

2- Off the line, it is pretty slow. Even with my 5 speed manual. But. I really can't complain since I have not had any problems with it and still get almost 31MPG with 50% highway and 50% traffic.

vocus

The higher RPMs have more to do with the gearing than the engine itself. I know the 2.0 loaner I had ran 4000rpm or so at 85mph and started to get a little buzzy. Still not too bad for what is basically a pretty old engine design.

bpeebles

was a 1.8L and claimed a whopping 85HP using a carberator.... The Dodge Omni used this VW engine for years.

When VW added MECHANICAL fuel injection (CIS) it was bumped to 90HP. My 1979 Scirocco ran on REGULAR (leaded)gasoline and went over 110K miles. My VW pickup had the same engine in the 1.9L configuration and claimed about 110HP.

This engine has evolved over the years but it is still basically the same bullettproof engine that powered the VW watercooled revolution in the rabbit.

My 2003 TDI (still using the same basic engine as a 1.9L) is just the opposite of the 2.0L gasser. The TDI is a low-reving engine that loves to be lugged and makes the most torque below 2000 RPM.

I also get over 50MPG 8-)

Sure Honda and others have counter-rotating balancers and other "tricks" to smooth out the inherent roughness of a straight 4 cylinder engine.... but that adds complxity and more moving parts.

wa_carshopper

hi,
  I am confused on wht car to get...a used 2002 jetta 1.8t or a new protege es. I hear mixed opinions frm people. I might have the car for a max 3 yrs I think - so resale value is also somewhat important.
I can get a 2003 Pro ES for cheap - but will I lose a lot if I happen to sell it in a little over a yr?
On the other hand I hear Jettas have good resale value..I can get a used one (with leather seats..I like leather seats...)..but I hear many negatives abt the reliability of Jettas.
Any input would be appreciated. I am a first-time car buyer.
Thanks,
Sam

vocus

I have owned both (01 Pro and 02 Jetta). If you want to get rid of the car in a short time, the Protege will kick you in resale value, trust me. But what about a used Protege? They are roomier than the Jetta and have somewhat better handling, but (like you pointed out) are missing some luxury touches and aren't as safe in crash tests as the Jettas are. Also, long term reliability isn't really a big concern, since you're trading in 3 years or so. Get an extended warranty and you should be ok. I would recommend the Jetta just as long as you don't need an expansive back seat, and don't mind a little higher than normal maintenance costs.

smartguy8514

im am looking at a 1998 jetta glx 5 speed and was wondering what are some of the common problems with the jettas from 96-98.

rc7762

I can comment on the 97 Jetta that I owned and a good percentage of problems I experienced were the same problems other Jetta owners have had (That is based on what I have read from other Jetta owners and previous Jetta owners that I have talked with).

Problems: (All problems are before 80,000 miles)

- Rubber body molding would not stay on.
- Air conditioner needed replaced.
- Complete exhaust needed replaced.
- Clutch needed replaced.
- Starter was replaced.
- Warning lights on dash would turn on and off at random.
- Numerous squeaks and rattles in rear of car.

This car was a major disappointment but yet taught me that no matter how much I like or want a car I will take the time to do major research before making a commitment, Had I known then what I know now about VW reliability and how expensive it is to repair VW I would have never purchased the car.

Needless to say I think you are doing the right thing by taking the time to research the car.

Good luck.

wa_carshopper

hi,
  I've gone through the msgs here and have concluded that a jetta is troublesome. But it does have a good resale value. Why this discrepancy? Is it because some trouble-free Jettas are really worth having?
  My problem is: I need a car that I might keep from anywhere between 1-3 yrs. So I want a nice (read better looking and comfortable) car that also won't hurt me if i have to sell. (I might move to another country).
  I am looking at Protege ES 2003 - I am doubtful of the resale value..should this being the last yr for the Protege improve or decrease its resale value?
  I also understand that getting ANY new car would hurt me in resale if I sell it off, say after 1 yr.
  I am also looking at a 2002 Jetta 1.8T - the owner says he has had no maintenance pblms so far (13k miles) apart from the coilpack replaced under warranty. It still has 2 more yrs of manufacturer warranty left. Do u think I can go for it if I get a fair deal? i.e. dows it make sense from a "saving" point of view?

thanks a lot,
Sam

ezekiel_24

I asked the guy at the dealership if the Red was faster than the Black or the Silver and he answered with a resounding yes.

nimoman18

I am considering a volkswagen GLI... I love the way the car looks and drives, but I am discouraged because I have been reading a lot of negative reviews as far as reliability is concerned. Can anyone shed some light on the reliability of this car???????????

bpeebles

(nimoman18) Although ther is always the occasional lemon, most VWs will travel well over 120,000 miles with out much troubles.

 I have traveled well over 300,000 miles in Volkswagens and only twice have I been stranded. (both times due to a faled alternator that had well over 100,000 miles on it) I consider that pretty durn reliable.

To make a comparison... 2 Hondas in the family have been stranded due to failed alternators too. (both with over 100,000 miles on them)

If you like the Jetta... get one and enjoy it thoroughly. Why settle for somthing less than what you desire just because some folks have had a poor dealership experience? (It is most often a bad service department at the dealership that turns the Fahrfunugen sour.)

mariobgoode

Does anybody on this BBS have any experience with these cars, either favorable or unfavorable? My daughter now drives an automatic 03 GLS and is looking to move up to a good stick shift Jetta in 2 years. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks. M

venus537

a completely redone jetta will be out then and the tranny will be revised and probably improved.

mariobgoode

I guess she'll have to wait then, read all the advance reviews and make her choice based on what comes out from the factory. Do they still make this in Mexico?

bpeebles

Many Jettas are ASSEMBLED in Mexico. The various parts come from all over the world.

Last I knew, the WAGONS were still ASSEMBLED in Germany.

The place of ASSEMBLY also dictates what COLORS are available.

jtrujillo86

I hate to state the obvious, but the washing-of-the-key-fob thing was your fault. Not VW's. Of course the new one is going to be expensive because the keys are laser cut and have a transponder in the fob. You are still able to use the switch blade key in the fob, or the valet key.

You are at 63K and a new serp belt...I hate to say it, but that's normal for many cars. Try owning a 98 Eagle Talon. My sister's eats serp belts every 25K; I have 65K on my Malibu and it's ready to go.

Is this your first set of rotors? If so that's pretty good. Many new cars today have rotor issues, especially my Malibu. Many other folks with this car (the Malibu) have had bad rotors by 20K. Consider yourself lucky in this category.

And as far as the plugs go - You could always skim on the VW one's and get the AutoZone brand. But then again you would risk fouling one of the plugs real quick. Just do it and think of it as regular maintenance.

Oh, and what about being "raped less frequently"? You will get raped if your Honda or Toyota ever has problems. Parts cost an arm and a leg as well.

Either way, good luck!

Jeremy

prodigalsun

So, I guess I can assume that your american car has the same reliability as a jetta? That's too bad!

kupper25

Need some help on products to care for the black plastic exterior trim on a 2001 Jetta GLS.

I am talking about the black matte plastic trim at the bottom edge of the rear bumper, also at the base of the side mirrors. After two years I am seeing a lot of "white" in the interior grooves of the matte black surface.

Would appreciate any experience / suggestions you have on products to improve this appearance (and keep it looking better for more than a week or two). Most of the exterior care products I use on this vehicle are Zaino products. I have wondered if their tire gloss product could be used for this or their plastic cleaner. Does anyone else have this problem (and have an answer)?

ruking1

Well first of all if it is really bad you can use mothers, back to black (I have it in the garage but forget the name exactly, in any case mothers)

If it is not that bad you can use z2 or if you want to really bath it use the Z16 (Zaino tire gloss product)

I also use Meguairs #40 rubber rejuvenator and cleaner on 10 year old plastic running boards and it is almost flawless and parked outside 24/7.

jtrujillo86

Consider yourselves lucky. Many Jetta owners complain about a few hundred dollars in repairs here and there, but often Malibu owners shell out $1,400+ every 100K miles because of faulty intake manifold gaskets, which BTW occur many times every 50K. Also, don't forget those rotors...many sets are warped every 30K, meaning $80.00 per rotor every 30K plus the cost of brakes. You guys have it made compared to others.

Jeremy