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One problem with this way of dealing with the defective sockets is that only current triplet owners will be notified of the problem. No NTSB, no repair shops outside of GM shops, no future owners. They will have to fend for themselves.
The question I have, is the factory XM radio supposed to show the song title and artist when listening to XM? The radio shows the station name but that's it.
Thanks
The song artist and title will display when you press the "Display" button (shared w/ the "Tune" button). It's a little slow, and limited on characters, but it does provide some info and fun.
The system has been AOK since the repair
i have had the car in the dealership for this problem before. when i acclerate over roughly 30 mph, it ticks. when i get on the expressway and really hop on it, the ticking gets louder and faster. the dealership said there was an exhaust leak and they fixed it, not a very good fix. i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem
great car
There's really no such thing as too much pressure. 45-50 is good.
The pressure is regulated to 65 psi max. Excessive pressure can cause problems. That's why there is a pressure regulator built in. Here is a description of the oil pump system from the 4200 I-6 overview.
"The oil pump’s gerotor design uses eccentric lobes to move oil from the inlet to outlet ports. An inner ring with 10 lobes, driven by the front of the crankshaft, is surrounded by 11 lobes on an outer ring. As oil enters the pump, the eccentric design compresses the oil, then releases the oil at a regulated max pressure of 65 psi at 2,500 rpm, circulating 11 gallons per minute. The pump body is made of aluminum, and the gerotor gears are made of powdered metal. The pressure regulator is a spring and piston design that is incorporated into the oil pump assembly."
This is THE most annoying function my TB has. A friend that has a TB-LS like mine has had that problem addressed several times in warranty, the switch replaced twice, and the recent updates done, and still takes its time cooling down, same as mine does. Watching a thermometer in the center vent, will start cooling, get down to maybe 90° then will stop cooling for 20-30 sec and temp will go back up 4-5° or so, resume cooling and continue this "cycling" until it finally gets down to "normal" 48° to 52° out the center vent ( 95-100° outside ambient temp).
The low pressure cycling switch symptom is, it will be cooling fine, then stop cooling altogether when the switch sticks open. Happens very intermittently, usually.
GM sold us a bill of goods that did not live up to the hype. Your story has been repeated here many times. How can anyone buy another GM SUV after reading the many horror stories posted here? They cannot dismiss the complaints as just a few malcontents. The quality proof is not to be found in GM's pudding. The reason I have a 2002 TB is my 2001 TB was a problem from the first day it left the dealer. I traded it in with 6500 miles and bought a 2002 TB LTZ. What a mistake that was. GM learned nothing about quality during the past several years. The quality control amounts to selling the cars and fixing the problems as they are reported. You would think they just started building cars if you added up all of the problems with just the triplets, from wipers that don't work in the rain to brake lights that don't work due to poorly designed sockets. Front to back and side to side these cars are the some of the most problematic cars I have ever read about. Everyone says something like "my triplet is fine except for this". Add up all the "this's" and you can see the full picture.
Good luck
I agree the triplets have had there share of problems. Considering less than 1% of all owners even post on these kinds of forums your “horror stories” quote is a bit over the top.
I have a 2002 Bravada build date 02-02 so it was one if the first out on the road. I have had most of the small problems talked about on this forum. You know what? I still love to drive my Bravada every chance I get, when I can pry it away from my wife I runs same or better that than day I bought it, wouldn’t hesitate to take it out tomorrow on any kind of driving trip
Vegas might be my first choice!
My local dealer has been very understanding and helpful in getting all the issues fix to my satisfaction. I know more than a few people have to fight there dealer every time they go in. I just take a TSB print out or a few quotes from other owners from this forum and there is no problems. My service adviser lists my concerns on work orders and does his best to make me a happy owner.
Just read other SUV forums and then weight it against this one. Every major problem has been address by GM, maybe not as fast a most people would like but they are getting fixed.
Allen
Nonetheless, today I wish to report that "this car works great". If I were to drive it over a cliff tomorrow, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
- WPK
I remember cars in the 60's - not a reliable bunch all in all.
Steve, Host
The triplets may have more computing power than the first lunar lander, but I doubt anyone here would want to go to the moon with the triplets technology.
P.S. My first car was a 1959 Rambler Rebel. The seats reclined fully without hitting the cigar lighter. It had a push button tranny and a Holley 4bbl carb on a 283 CI V8. The only gripe I ever had with that car was the vacuum powered wipers. They would stop whenever you got over 105 mph. I suppose the triplets have a better wiper motor, it only stops when it is raining.
Let me tell you how much I was worried about that a-arm. When I read about the problem and called the dealer, they offered to tow me into the shop right away from where I was at the time (work). It took me all of two seconds to decide what to do. Have it towed and maybe have the tow truck guys damage my new truck or just drive it down and drop it off? I walk out to my truck and drove it down to the dealer, they gave me a rental and said we’ll call when we have a fix.
How is that for being proactive, GM didn’t even know what the problem was but got all the trucks off the road and then started working the problem.
Must have cost a few dollars, as they had 4,000 to 5,000 trucks out by then and all the owners were put in GM paid rentals and GM paid tows to dealer.
I even took two trips on GM with the rental, nice of them to keep my own Bravada’s mileage down.
I don’t think the wiper was leaking water. It had a mis-placed vent hole that could let water in and it had no place to get out. The real problem is it needed a “drain hole” to let the water out. That all fixed now per a TSB, I would never got in just for that. I save up little problems and get them fix with one visit.
Just to show how nice my dealer is, he offered a rental car to my wife who was dropping it off. Even though they were not planning to keep it over night.
I will have to agree with you on the tail light sockets, very light duty design. I see our trucks with brake lights out all the time. I’m sure if enough trucks have a problem we’ll a TSB or recall on that.
What I did was disassemble the lights and coated all the electric connections with silicone die-electric grease. Guess what, I never had problem but that might be more than most people would do.
Allen
BTW, I do have heated driver & passenger mirrors. The driver mirror has the heated symbol, but I don't remember if the old mirror had it as well. The new mirror doesn't, so can anyone confirm if both mirror should have it to indicate the option? I want to make sure that the new mirror is heated properly, before the frosty months arrive.
Overall, I'm still really pleased with my 2002 TB LT model.
THANKS!
John
The wiper motor is leaking water, a drain hole would treat the symptom, not cure the problem. I jokingly suggested a drain hole when the problem surfaced 1.5 years ago, post 11223 . I guess someone at GM thought I was serious.
Your temporary socket fix with silicone grease is just that, short term. The original problem still exists. I just recently received a letter from GM regarding the brake light socket problem. They will replace the socket on an as needed basis. They will not (as of now) have a general recall for this problem.
BTW when GM puts its name on a product, it becomes a GM product. The suppliers don't enjoy the positive advertising when a supplied part is a hit, they should not shoulder the blame when a part fails. Was it ever shown that the part failed do to defective materials or workmanship or was it just to small to do the job?
No more problems after putting this compound on the bulb contacts. This is specfically made for electrical contacts in automotive and truck applications. Should be available at truck stops. A friend who works on commercial trucks gave me a tube. This is what they use, at the shop where he works, to prevent failure of electrical connectors for trailer and clearance lighting, etc.
ALL! GM repurchased my Bravada. My Envoy has problems also, but I'm living with them 'cause I'm sick of the dealers. The basic design is good, the execution is poor. And trust me, nobody would be buying these things if they had to pay full list. They've had $4-6000 rebates as long as I can remember, not to mention you can get them under invoice. Why doesn't GM price them accordingly or do they somehow think they are giving us a really good deal on a vehicle that can list over $40K?
On the plus side, I get good gas mileage for a SUV, it rides nice and has good power. If they could fix the wind noise, brake pedal squeak, and seat squeaks, I'd be happy.
GAM
Problems- nothing major here. Only some recalls, no repairs or failed parts requiring replacement so far. No brake or seat squeaks, and very minimal, if any, wind noise. Very quiet overall. For the $21k I paid for my "loaded" LS new, I am overall satisfied with the value I received. Just the same old slow to cool down A/C that seems to be a common "function" for whatever reason. Sure would be nice if GM would address that before my warranty runs out next Jan!
We would apppreciate any advice from folks around the board who have any of the extended triplets.
Personally, I like to use 3 to 5 psi above what the placard says. I get better fuel economy, better tire wear, better wet traction, better snow traction, better steering response, better tire durability, and only give up a bit of ride harshness.
The manufacturer is always responsible for the suppliers' products that go into their final product. It should be caught at Receiving Inspection, but many companies don't inspect as thoroughly these days, instead "empowering" their employees to inspect their own work. (This is a BAD thing). The philosphy is sold to the unions as "empowerment", but it really means reducing the payroll (less inspectors). As a consumer, I don't like it because I get an inferior product.
I get 20+ mpg highway in my I6 5 passenger Trailblazer. If you get the 7 passenger with the V8, you'll get a little worse.
Seems good recommendations for purchasing the GMPP Major Guard from Black Pontiac. Ready to purchase, but 1 question for the forum. When I visit my dealer, I notice the $$ diagnostic fee posted in the service area. Anyone know how this works if you have the Major Guard? I would assume {?} it would not be an additional charge -- but seeking the real truth. Anybody...Anybody :-) Thanks!
Also....does any feel a "rubbing" or "resistance" in the steering column? Had the dealer address this; they lubed it. Felt a little better for a few weeks, but now, returning. And the "surge/clunk" from the rear of the vehicle at stop. Dealer says it's 'normal' (to feel like a car has hit you from behind). I remain skeptical.......
The rental was an '04 TB with over 39,000 miles and it had been driven hard. There were plenty of squeaks and rattles and I used it to pull my trailer. When I opened the flap to plug the trailer lights in, about a pound of dirt fell out. It leaked oil and the turn signals would get stuck in place. I was also able to see how much was de-contented from my '02.
Now things get scary because I just turned over 36,000 miles this morning. Glad I bought the extended warranty. I usually keep my vehichles for at least 10 years but this is my first domestic purchase.
Thanks for your responses.
My wife made the jump from an old style Chevy Blazer to the '02 Envoy XL back in May of 02, right after the 7 passenger models came out. Initially, she was concerned about the size of the vehicle. The blind spot in the rear of these vehicles is significant, especially when the third row of seats is up. However, after a few weeks of driving it, she could move that thing around like a pro. Just takes some getting used to, especially since that third row is theater style seating, meaning that it sits higher off of the floor of the truck than the second row.
Someone else asked about gas mileage on the XL versions. We have the '02, XL, SLT 4x4, loaded with every toy but the DVD. It has the 3.42 rear gear, and it was listed at 15/20 city/highway on the EPA sticker. Real world experience is more like 13/18 city highway. Your actual mileage may vary. I find that I can get better mileage out of it than my wife can. I took a 140 mile round trip on the highway last week, and got 21.2 on the DIC, with the AC running the whole time. Pretty good for a 7 passenger truck, even at 13/18 - I wish my 5.7L Tahoe could come close to that some days.
Other than some of the minor issues others have had, and a fairly significant water leak that had to be fixed twice, our truck has really settled down these last six months. The wiper motor recall is the first time I will be at the dealer for anything other than routine maintenance for quite a while. Remember, those of us with trouble free trucks read, but rarely post - not all triplets are bad, if they were, GM would have been out of business. Think about it, they have sold hundreds of thousands of these things over the last few years. Even if only a majority of them were bad, GM would be in big trouble.
Why do I mention all this boring stuff? Because I was driving my Infiniti G35, not my 2002 TB LTZ.
There is no specific ride height adjustment in the manual but it is easy to see how it could be done. The height sensors can be loosened and rotated to set the specified height. The manual states during replacement of a height sensor, the air suspension fuse is pulled to disable the system, the vehicle is set to the correct height, a locking pin is put through the sensor arms to hold the arm in its center position, and then the sensor is tightened down in that aligned, centered position. That aligns the center point of the sensor to the specified ride height of the vehicle. Seems easy enough. GOOD LUCK!