Any 1999 F-250 owners?

stanford

Well, after 2500 miles I'm still loving my F350 to death. The engine power continues to increase, and the transmission is shifting a little higher than it used to on full-throttle passes. Gas mileage remains the same at 10-10.5 with the V10 but I'm driving a lot more aggressively than I was at first so its probably actually getting better. The ride of the 4X4 is smoothing out nicely as the springs get broken in -- this is especially noticable with the front leaf springs.

Annoyances:

Its pulling a little to the right. I need to make an appointment with the dealer for an alignment / tire check.

The drivers side door weatherstripping is about 2" too short -- it will be replaced during the alignment.

I engaged the 4X4 going down some nice straight road -- the ESOF works perfectly but I'm getting a loud groaning noise from what sounds to be the front differential under certain conditions. If I'm just applying moderate pedal, maintaining speed, everything is fine. With no gas, or harder acceleration, the noise occurs. This is my first 4X4 -- is this normal? I'll have the dealer drive it when its in for its alignment anyway.

This thing is a real pain to wash, and being black shows the dust very easily. Ah, well.

The trip computer doesn't seem to have the 'instantaneous mileage' mode talked about in the owner's manual.

The 4X4 ESOF dial looks like it was hastily designed and doesn't quite match the rest of the truck. If next year's is an integrated panel, I may switch them out.

There is no space under the hood for an extra battery. The fuel trap consumes the space that the diesel uses for the spare. I'm going to have to get a few 1 farad capacitors for my stereo this time.

Happy surprises:

The cupholder is more sturdy than the one on the earlier truck I looked at. That one didn't have the nice firm support that mine does.

Its very easy to drive. I can move in and out of rush hour traffic easier than I could in my '93, even after 5 years of practice in it.

There is much more room behind the rear bench than there was in the older crew cabs. My speaker box fits behind there w/o moving the seat forward at all.

The new seats are very comfortable. Comparing the Lariat buckets to the old XLT bench is probably unfair, but my back is thanking me for the change.

--

Just a few thoughts. Comments, etc, are welcome :-)

frank5

stanford

You said you had some noise when engaging 4 wheel drive on straight road I assume you read the owners guide which says on page 104 operation is not recommended on dry pavement. I,m not sure but it seems I recall hearing that driving on dry pavement can create all sorts of noises due to tires not able to slip causing a backlash in the drive train. By the way I just received my F350 4x4 V10 last week and so far the only problem I've exsperianced is a slight shaking at idle about every 10 to 30 seconds.

stanford

Frank5: That warning is because the transfer case does not contain a differential. This means that the front and rear diffs are incapable of turning at different speeds. This is also why I picked a nice straight level patch of road -- the locking situation won't make a difference there.

richflynn

On the fuel/octane issue.

I hate to burst anyone's bubble but;

All grades of gasoline from a manufacturer have the same additives, except for the octane enhancers. (Used to be tetra ethyl lead, but since EPA the name of the compound escapes me.) The oil companies will readily admit to this, they just don't advertise it.

The gasoline (At least in the LA area.) at the off brand stations is made in the same refineries as the branded stuff. If you really need to know where the gasoline is made, just ask the truck driver who is delivering the gasoline who made it. I've never met a driver who wouldn't tell you. The only thing is that the off brands usually buy by price. So, depending upon contract timing, the actual formulation of the gasoline at the off brand may vary. One week it could be Texaco and the next could be Chevron. If your vehicle is tuned to need 87.003 octane and the batch at the off brand is 87.001 octane you may notice pinging.

The modern gasoline engine is designed for a specific octane fuel. If you purchase a higher grade fuel than is required you're throwing money away. Your engine can not derive any benefit from the higher octane fuel. The EPA has fixed that! We used to be able to raise the compression ratio and advance the spark to get additional horsepower. The EPA fixed that too. Today's engines tune themselves almost constantly and adjust the timing and mixture for a variety of conditions. So just by the grade needed.

Diesel fuel is different and I don't really know why. When I would buy off brand fuel, the truck would not idle as smooth nor seem to 'run as well'. It was my wife that first noticed this in the '86. She would notice that the engine was rougher at idle and equated it to the last tank of off brand fuel. I would exclaim, "This thing is running great today!" She would note that I recently bought good fuel. Today I buy fuel where the trucks are. (Sort of like how you find good food on the road.) In the California, Arizona and Nevada area I have noticed that the better fuels are: Flying-J, Unocal, Chevron and Texaco, in that order. Again, I don't know why these fuels are better than others. There are no advertised quantitative indicators of quality. I would be interested in any observations from others on the diesel fuel quality issue.

As far as different fuel yielding different MPG numbers, I've never noticed it. I calculate my fuel mileage on every fill up. My calculator is a pocket slide rule. (i.e. Accurate to two digits and interpolate to a third.) I don't think that my right foot is as accurate as the slide rule.

There is one thing of note concerning fuel mileage. Recently on the evening news, here in LA, there was a report of a cheating gas station. The gas station owner had the computer in the gas pumps rigged to over charge 10%-15%. The over charging was every where except at one, five and ten gallons. The reason for the one five ten was that is where the bureau of weights and measures checks for accuracy. From what I understand the station owner is being charged with a felony and the stations were closed.

Rich

stanford

One thing -- the EPA says nothing about compression ratios. Its just hard to run over about 10.5:1 compression on 93 octane fuel (at sea level). They do limit what they can put into the gas, which is why we have an effective maximum of about 93-94.

Out of curiosity, how were the pumps accurate at 10 gallons and not at 8? Or did they just start going inaccurate after 10 gallons? I would be very suspicious if the price and quantity meters started varying their relative speeds. And yes, I do watch them -- what else is there to do when pumping 35 gallons :-)

mroffshore

Well that shows you how much I read my manual! That shows you how much I know about fuel also! HAHAHA! I guess I was living in the past. But I will argue this point to my grave, I have noticed that the regular gas seems to ping too much and just seems generally crappy in terms of quality. I do realize the engine design, ect. will dictate preformance but I can not believe reg. gas is of good quality. Maybe I'm wrong, I'm talking about my own expierence.

Some how I knew that professor Rich would bring it all together! HAHA Yes, Rich I noticed the same thing at idle with no name diesel fuel also. I'm using Texaco now and I have'nt been that impressed with it either. I hear what sounds like pingging like gas engines. Is this possible in the diesel engine?

Mroffshore

lemans

In the literature on the 1999 F250 Superduty Diesel, I notice that there is an option for two Alternators. Can any body commnet as to why I would need two(2) alternators?

stanford

If you have a lot of aftermarket electrical equipment, you could use 'em. I would like to have the option on the V10 -- I have a 1040 watt RMS competition stereo system and recharging the batteries can take quite a while. There are many more utalitarian uses as well.

cdean

Rich

You will notice differences in diesel grades, especially in older model diesels, with the mechanical type fuel pumps. Alot of those fuel pumps are very sensitive to exactly what's in the fuel. Years ago, when off road diesel was first produced, the dyes in the fuel had either a too high or too low sulfur content, i can't remember exactly what the problem was. Diesel fuel actually acts like its own lubricant inside the fuel pump. So the properties of the fuel can affect how the fuel pump performs. I heard stories of some 7.3 owners who used off-road diesel exclusively, and then when they went with a tank of road fuel, the truck would run like crap. The different contents of the offroad fuel caused specific mechanical wear inside the pump, which basically made the pump "addicted" to off road fuel.

I've heard that off-road diesel now has the same chemical content as on road diesel. As far as using different grades of fuel, a diesel is going to be very picky to what grade of fuel it likes due to the high compression ratio, and precise injector timing. If a fuel is used with a slightly lower heat of vaporization, or a different flash point, its going to ignite at the wrong time, making the engine run crappy.

hope that helps, and doesn't confuse.

KCRam

I'll vouch for mechanical diesels being picky. I have a 12V Cummins in my 96 Ram 3500, and I'll tell ya, a bad load of fuel will make it run like complete crap. And as for off-brand vs name brand, the real criteria is storage tank turnover. Just like Budweiser, fresh diesel tastes better Normally, I go to a Sunoco station that has semis and dump trucks in it 24/7. In a pinch, I stopped at an Exxon station, and the engine ran so bad, I had to have my idle readjusted and my fuel filter changed. Their diesel apparently doesn't sell very well (at that station, anyway), and sits in the storage tank longer, where impurities can accumulate.

Diesel has cetane ratings not unlike gasoline octane ratings. The Cummins requires 40 (I believe the Powerstroke is the same), but there are stations that sell 42 and 43. And like high-octane gas, unless your engine is set for higher cetane, it's not worth the bother.

mikef150

With the cold weather approaching here in NJ, i'm looking for some input on the use of the block heater with the PSD. The owners manual does not give the specs for the heater (watts, amps) and i want to know if i should run a separate outlet box for the heater, or just run a 60 ft. extension cord from the nearest outlet. Also, if using a cord, 12/3 or 14/3, which is necessary? (guess one would have to know how much current the heater draws). Finally, for duration of use....leave it plugged in all night, or set it on a timer? Any comments would be appreciated.
--Mike

mikef150

With the cold weather approaching here in NJ, i'm looking for some input on the use of the block heater with the PSD. The owners manual does not give the specs (watts, amps) and i want to know if i should run a separate outlet box for the heater, or just use a 60 ft. extension cord from the nearest outlet? Also, if using a cord, 12/3 or 14/3, which is necessary? (guess one would have to know how much current the heater draws). Finally, for duration uf use....leave it plugged in all night or set it on a timer? Any comments would be appreciated.

mikef150

sorry for the double post....thought HIDE would remove it....guess not.

Brutus

I've got to believe that the block heater for the diesel isn't much different than for the gas engine. The Superduty block heater is designed so that it will not overheat your engine, so it's safe to plug it in all night. The manual recommends plugging it in about 3 hours before you plan to use it when the temps are low. I've used block heaters alot. In most cases, your vehicle will start without one. The big difference is how quickly your heat and defrost kick in and start working. That's mighty nice in the dark, early mornings of winter. Of course, I guess if you get to park in the garage, the advantages aren't as noticeable.

KCRam

mike,

I use my block heater when the overnight temp will stay below 25F. I plug it into an outdoor extension cord which comes in the house to a switch that I control. I usualy let it run from midnight until I go to work, and the engine fires so much easier. Plus, there's the side benefit of faster heat from the HVAC system for passengers and defrosting.

rsholland

The current issue (Dec. 98) of Truck Trends by Motor Trend has an interesting head-to-head comparison between these two models.

The vehicles they tested were fairly comparable, in that they were both Super Cab 4x4s with a short beds. The SD was an XLT, and LD was a Lariat. The SD had the V10, whereas the LD had the uprated ('99) 5.4.

This direct comparison was interesting in that it dealt with a lot of "details" that one might not notice unless they could compare them side-by-side. And, as we all know, "the devil is in the details."

In a nutshell: Truck Trends said that the LD is a much better "driving" vehicle than the SD, and that most people do not need the capability of a SD. They did say say... if you need the extra strength of the SD, then by all means, get that truck.

One other note along those lines. I've been seeing a lot of F-250SDs (& F-350SDs) with short beds. This leads me to think that many of these vehicles are being used as "personal use" vehicles, rather than traditional "work" vehicles. I would also assume that these folks must be doing some heavy recreational towing.

Most people seem to opt for the SD model because the costs are similar, and that the payload is much higher. And, certainly looks play a big part in the decision-making also. But... they might want to investigate these two trucks a bit further. The LD may be the better choice, depending on their needs.

Anybody trying to decide between these two vehicles would be well advised to read this article. There's a lot of useful info in it.

Bob

mikef150

Brutus & kcram, thanks for the input. I peeled back the wire loom on the truck plug and the wire inside was 16/3 heater cord, so i guess a 14/3 extension cord would be safe enough to use. I'll probably go with the cord and then either leave it plugged in all night or get some type of timer.
--Mike

jergrimes

I have read with much dismay all of the problems owners of the powerstroke have encountered. Can I assume that the cavitation and injector problems are still occurring with the 99 Powerstrokes? Or were the problems just with the earlier models? Do these same problems occur with the Cummings engine as well?

While I was convinced that I wanted the diesel - I am certainly leaning toward the V10 after reading all of the above posts.

gobrownfish

Talked to a fellow yesterday that reminded me
much of your technical knowledge. He was talking
about owning a Light Duty F-150 with the 5.4 with
the full Banks system installed. He figured he
was about the same specs of the V-10 but with a
much lighter vehicle. Said the HP and Torque
would be about the same but much better gas milage. He was a very interesting fellow but my
only response to him was how much better the SD
looked over the LD. He thought his truck would
outperform the SD with the V-10. Hummmm.
Ten weeks and waiting...

richflynn

kcram,
I don't remember which truck it was, '86 or '92 and I'm too lazy to get the shop manuals down for the '99.

The engine block heater was 75 watts. I seriously doubt that it has changed very much since then.

If you have a 12/3 extension cord use it. If not a 14/3 would be ok. Just keep it as short as possible. The length of the extension cord can reduce the voltage delivered to the block heater and make it less efficient.

On the Cetane rating thing.I've never seen the numbers posted any where. How do you tell a rating of 40 from a 41 or 42?

Rich

Incidentally, I don't notice much difference between prices of the what-cha-ma-call-it brands and a name brand. Sometimes a couple three cents but rarely more.

lemans

(rsholland) I chose the SD F250 because I am planning on pulling a 28 to 38 Ft. fifth wheel trailer so the decision was not hard for me. the wife wanted the crew cab instead of the supercab. However, the reason for chosing a long bed was that some have told me that a short bed truck would not be able to turn as short a radius as the long bed because of the over hang of the trailer hitting the cab. Do you or anyone else have any comments on this.
Also another reason I ordered the long bed is for hauling things such as a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. So I thought in the long run the long bed would be better overall.
I am getting a little worried though. I have been reading where others have stated that you should order from a large dealer because he might have a higher priority than a small dealer in a small town. I chose my dealer because I know them and anoher dealer would be a long distance for me to drive and I thought I might not get as good service as I would if I had bought the truck form another dealer. any comments.

KCRam

The cetane rating is normally on the pump just like the octane rating sticker - in fact, it looks just like it. I avoid stations that don't post the cetane rating on the pump - that means they don't have a consistent diesel supplier and have no idea what they're really pumping.

Example: There are 2 Mobil stations near me. They're on the same highway, about 5 miles apart. They are within pennies of each other for gasoline, but one sells diesel for 98 cents, the other sells it for $1.45. I find it hard to believe they are getting the same diesel fuel.

ddorff

Any folks who worked hard for, and got, the V10 and 3.73ls care to comment on the performance and mileage affect, highway and/or towing? I just placed an order for an F250SD, CC, SB, 4x4, V10, 3.73ls for occasional towing of a small 5th wheel (5-7000lb loaded), and want to be sure it ought to tow alright, even if out of OD, while getting a bit better mileage when not towing the other 98% of the time.

Thanks for all the work by all on the list to find things out (like the 3.73ls & V10 issue). It was news to my dealer. Also, I opted for the V10 if only for the reason that I also have to upgrade my old car with another, less used one ($5-8000), so the $3,700 savings now will go a long way toward that.

rsholland

lemans

Sounds like you made the right choices to me.

Bob

pasobility1

dardoff, you have orderd my dream truck that has slowly become an undream. I have been talked out of the 4x4 because of the height, and the shortbed because of the goosneck trailer that I tow. I am going with the F350 instead of the F250 because of the tow as well.

pasobility1

dardoff, you have orderd my dream truck that has slowly become an undream. I have been talked out of the 4x4 because of the height, and the shortbed because of the goosneck trailer that I tow. I am going with the F350 instead of the F250 because of the tow as well.

wlb

Just sold my 93 Cummins, and shopping for new truck. We live in New Mexico and go off-road often using a slide-in truck camper. I have been told that the new Ford 250 SD will not accommodate a truck camper unless a platform is put in the bed to raise the camper past the top of the cab. Also, I have been told that the Ford truck bed width is insufficient for a slide-in. Does anyone know the actual facts?

Brutus

I just bought a Bigfoot slide-in camper, although I won't pick it up until January. The dealer I bought the camper from has installed quite a few of them in the new Superduties. You will need about a three inch platform to elevate the camper over the cab, but they're not complex. I've heard it's just a matter of some 2x6s and plywood. My camper dealer is building one for me as part of my installation.

I haven't heard of any problems with the width. I'm sure the beds are plenty wide enough. My recommendation is to talk to a camper manufacturer if you have concerns. The trucks have been out awhile now, so I'm sure they have experience installing campers on them.

wlb

brutus. Thanks for the response about slide-in campers and truck beds. The 3-inch platform is what I had heard. Our camper is an 8 1/2' Lance. I just went to the Ford dealer and checked the width, and there is no problem there. Now, I have to decide between Ford, Dodge, and GM. All have advantages and disadvantages. The 93 Dodge Cummins was a beast of a truck, but I was surely glad to be rid of it. The engine was great, but the rest of it was not. At least, Dodge has fixed the noise to some extent, and the ride certainly is much, much better. Thanks again.

Brutus

I bought a 10'11" Bigfoot 3000, so the duallys were essential. My truck is a F-350 4x4 Lariat V-10 dually with every option but the PTO. I love the truck. Can't wait to put the camper on. The first test with the camper on will be a 2,200+ mile trip from the dealership in Vernon BC Canada up the Alaska Hwy to Anchorage in winter conditions in January.

lemans

wlb
I might suggest you do some checking with someone who has a Chev if you are considering a Diesel. Everyone that I have talked to before ordering my truck had one thing in common. All suggest strongly against the Chev. when considering a diesel. everyone I talked to suggested the Ford or Dodge. If you are going to get a gas engine, maybe ok then.

mroffshore

brutus, professor rich or anyone else:

Out of couriosity, is there any way to tell for sure that I recieved the 3.73 LS rear that I ordered with out calling the dealer? I ask this because it seems to take a little too long to shift from 2nd to 3rd with the auto trans. It seems it should shift to 3rd before 41-42mph I can't remember what the rpm's are maybe 2000. When it does shift to 3rd it goes almost immediately to OD. I'm assuming the rear dictates this action, true or false? I also noticed while showing a friend how to use the edmunds site for invoices, that the 3.73 LS was not avaliable with the auto trans. Did we discuss that months ago? I ordered the 3.73 with the Lariat pkg and auto, I just assumed since there were no problems with my reorder I recieved the correct rear. It is a little irritating driving 30-40 mph through slower traffic areas with the engine turning what I feel are high RPM's.

Also, how long in this cooler weather should I allow the 7.3 liter to warm up before driving? Can I damage the engine by starting with only a few seconds of idle then drive away?

Thanks, Mroffshore

mroffshore

I think I answered my own concern regarding the 3.73 availability. My printer did not print out the last page of the options list. I read the explanation on the rear and what goes with what. I'm sure it's save to say I have the 3.73 just curious about the timing of the auto shift and my other questions/concerns still stand.

Thanks, Mroffshore

joe

I have a V10 with the 3.73 and it shifts into 3rd around 30-35. Are you sure what you are seeing at 41-42 range isn't the trans locking up? By the way
my truck goes into OD around 45-50. Also I was going up a 6% grade and it down shifted on me. The
RPMs jumped up to 3k for about 2-5 seconds then the trans locked up and the RPMs came down to 2500.

Brutus

Joe, what kind of mpg are you getting? I've heard that you guys with the 3.73s are getting about 2mpg better than us with the 4.30s. I've got the V-10 F-350 4x4 dually with 4.30.

mharde2

mroffshore, Your VIN# contains a code for your axle ratio. You can look in your owners manual for the codes and for the code description. You can also jack up the rear-end of your truck, mark the drive shaft and the wheel. The wheel should turn 7.3 times to the drive shafts 3 times.

joe

I have only had this truck for a few weeks and haven't put alot of miles on it yet. So far I am getting 11.5 mpg, ask me again when I have 1000 or so. The truck I got is a F250 xlt xtend cab 8ft bed 4x4(manual xfer case).

stirling

brutus,professor rich,mroffshore, or anyone else:
is the 4W ABS a must,like the V10 over the V8?
Also, any comments on blind spots with the LWB and the regular mirrors (no tow load)vs. the TT mirrors?

Do you all have running boards or steps, and did you get those from the dealer or aftermarket? Same question on the locking spare.

One dealer I spoke with today said 95% of the F250 SD's he sells are PSD's. He really discouraged even the V10. I don't plan to do any heavy towing. Any thoughts (I've read all the posts)? The feedback on the V10 sure seems positive, and I would prefer to stick with gas.

Thanks,
Stirling.

stanford

I have the TT mirrors with a CC LWB and love them. Not a single blind spot, and the convex mirrors are great during parking as well. The upper right hand mirror is flat, not convex, and makes lane changes with a trailer much easier (once you get used to it). They look a little goofy on non-DRW vehicles IMO, but they're great to use.

I have the std. Lariat steps. They work fine -- not what I would have chosen if I was buying aftermarket, but no complaints. I don't have a lock on the spare yet.

I had the diesel in my last truck and switched to the V10. So far, I have no complaints other than the mileage. I get 10mpg on the dot in pure-city stop-and-go Dallas rush hour traffic (60 miles a day). Bear in mind that I have the CC LWB DRW 4X4 with the 4.30s and run reformulated gasoline. My old diesel got 16 mpg with 4.10s. The V10 performance after about a 2000 mile break in is very nice. Its fast, responsive... combined with the nice tight steering and overall good frame, you just point and go.

stanford

Oh, I forgot your ABS question -- I would take it, no question. I've had to do full-pedal braking a couple of times and had no problems whatsoever. My '93 would lock up very easily, even with the rear wheel ABS. Like everything else about this truck, it just plain works.

stirling

stanford, thanks for the quick reply and the insights. I saw on an earlier post that someone thought that the regular mirrors presented a problem even with no tow load, because the bed is so high; ie, a blind spot for little cars behind you. Do you or anyone else have any confirmation on that? I'm getting a SRW and don't need the TT mirrors unless there's a blind spot even with nothing in tow.

Also, why did you switch from a diesel to the V10; seems like everyone who has had a diesel typically sticks with it.

One more question, anyone: is the esof problem now fixed; my dealer thinks ford fixed the glitches reported in earlier posts.

stanford

The ESOF problem affected a few vehicles and was fixed, oh, 6 months ago.

I switched to the V10 after running a lot of numbers. Read the entire "Diesel vs Gasoline" and "Gas Mileage" conferences for more information. If I was getting a Dodge I would probably have taken a Cummins -- I like the Ford V10 better though.

It is nice not having to worry about which gas stations to fill up at, and the engine is much quieter. The diesel isn't too loud with the new '99 body style insulation, but the gas engine is whisper quiet at idle. Its fairly easy to modify the gas engine to put out 500-600 lb-ft of torque if you really need the power too.

The diesel engines require more expensive regular maintenance (14 quart oil changes, etc) and if they break after the 100,000 mile warranty expires (may not be an issue to you) they can be very expensive to fix.

It was a hard decision, and the V10 doesn't have the sheer power of the diesel (500lb @ 1500rpm) but the torque converter in an automatic can help that somewhat (you can start out @ ~2000rpm). While its less fuel efficient, the break even point ended up being ~110,000 miles +- 10,000. This, combined with the added maintenance hassles of an older diesel, convinced me to switch.

Personally, I like the V10/4.30:1 combination, but I haven't driven a 3.73:1 for more than a couple of miles. I'd recommend driving both around town and on the highway.

mroffshore

stirling,

Ditto stanfords response with the exception of the engine. I prefer the desiel and I am glad I choose that option. Also I have the 3.73 rear. I do wish the factory had a version of a bed step. That little extra section behind the second CC door. I do not know but I feel the factory should have made it an option or added it for you. If it was available I did'nt know about it. If I can get something to match up with the factory cab steps I will buy and add it myself.

Mroffshore

stirling

stanford and mroffshore,

thanks for the info. very useful.

one more question: 2wd vs. 4wd: my driving will be 90% highway, 10% offroad (hunting); cost is a factor; would the 2wd with ltd slip be acceptable for anything short of extreme (eg, mud)conditions?
I'm a little concerned about the lack of weight over the wheels that have the power in a 2wd configuration, especially in wet or other hazardous highway conditions. But other than that (and the possibility of getting stuck occasionally off road), I would be OK with the 2wd.

Brutus

I like the V-10 with the 4.30s also. I've got the same setup as Stanford, except mine is a Supercab. The 3.73 ratio appears to provide about 2mpg better than the 4.30. Since you mentioned that 90% of your driving is hwy, and you didn't say anything about towing, the 3.73 may be the better way for you to go. I've only got 1,200 miles on my truck so far and the range has been 9.5-12mpg. The 12mpg was highway miles at about 60-65. I've been hearing a range of 11.5-14 for the trucks with the 3.73.

Like Stanford mentioned, there is a pretty good discussion of the economics of the diesel vs the gas engine in the diesel vs gas topic. The difference in mpg between the two vehicles, assuming 3.73s, is about 5mpg. That will probably cost you about $200 more in fuel every 10,000 miles. That's based on $1/gallon, which is what it costs here. Most people who have the diesel either tow alot or they just like diesels. I think those are better reasons than trying to justify it economically. An argument can be made for both sides on the economic issue.

So far this truck has more than lived up to the hype. No complaints at all. I've never enjoyed sitting in rush hour traffic more. I'll see how it rides in the snow and ice with a 3,500-4,000 pound slide-in camper in a couple of months.

Well, now that I think about it, there is one complaint. The thing is a pain in the butt to wash. I've only done it once. With the duallys, I can no longer take it to the car wash.

stirling

brutus,

thanks for the post. I don't plan to tow much if at all, so the 3.73 is the better choice. Ditto for the V10 over the PSD in my situation. But I still would like some input re the 4wd vs. 2wd per my previous post.

lemans

Need Comments
A dealer told me today that people who use the 4 wheel drive in off road conditions in mud and dirt said that the manual locking hubs are much better than the Shift on The Fly. He said that the ESOF would give problems. In some of the previous messages some have stated that the ESOF had been fixed. Was that the problem the dealer was talking about or another problem.
Thought I had found a truck on the lot. I saw a Super Duty 99 4 wheel drive with the Lariat Package, Auto and everything I wanted except it was a short wheel base. This truck has everything. It is just sitting there waiting for someone to buy it. It was ordered for a man who got tired of waiting for it and bought a Chevy. Poor man. I am still waiting on mine.

maxhvac

Received my 99 4wd F250 in Sept., Great truck except for gas milage.

Need recomendation on bedliner & step(s).

Also read that the 5.4 has no spark plug wires.
Can someone explain that one?

Brutus

The original problem with the ESOF (at least the one I heard about) was that it kept popping in and out of 4wd and 2wd. You couldn't depend on it staying in 4wd. For awhile, all of the trucks that were rolling off the assembly line with ESOF were being moved a couple of miles away into a fenced lot. Once they found the fix for the problem, they made the changes on the assembly line and sent mechanics to the lot to make the repairs on those trucks. I heard it was taking 20-30 minutes per truck. People who ordered the trucks that were in the lot had pretty decent delays. To make things more frustrating, Ford's computer indicated that they had been shipped because they had left the assembly line. After about the 30 days, the trucks fell off the tracking system because normally they would be delivered by then. So, none of those people knew when their trucks were coming in until they showed up at the dealership.

I still don't quite understand why a manual would be better than the ESOF. Let's say you are going into some rough terrain. You shift on the fly and then right before you hit the tough stuff, you can get out and manually lock the hubs to give you the confidence that the truck will stay in 4wd. So, you get the convenience of the ESOF for the majority of your driving and you still have the old faithful manual hub locking for those few times when you need to be absolutely sure.

lemans

Brutus
I don't understand what you mean that "you could shift ESOF and just before going into the ruff stuff I could get out and manually lock the hubs". If the truck has ESOF I don't have the option of manually locking the hubs. Maybe I don't understand the ESOF and Manually locking hubs. I thought you had one or the other, not the option of shifting on the fly and manually locking hubs to. Can you straighten me out on this.