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Any 1999 F-250 owners?

cliffccliffc Posts: 9
edited February 2014 in Ford
Has anyone purchased a 1999 F-250 yet? What are
your likes, dislikes? How does it ride? Any
problems? Thanks!
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Comments

  • MerleMerle Posts: 8
    I have bought one but as you probably know the lead time is approx 12 weeks, 8 to go for me. I will let you know something specific once I get it but until then my test drive of a F350 Super Duty is my only experience. It was special; quiet, smooth, powerful, and comfortable..
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    I ordered a 99 F-350 loaded 4x4 V-10 Lariat SuperCab. I'm at one week, with eleven to go. Is June here yet? Is there a support group? I live in Arlington Texas and commute to work daily to downtown Dallas. I have yet to see one outside of a showroom.
  • drozdroz Posts: 30
    I hope we all didn't make a mistake buying a truck we little about and have zero experience with. Does anyone know about the off-road package. I ordered one but they said it was delayed indefinitely but I believe I will need it so will have to wait. I hope the F-250 doesn't fall apart in the first few months.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    I think all the off-road package consist of is skid plates for the gas tank and transfer case, plus you get that fancy 4x4 decal. I actually had them remove the decal when I bought my current truck. It's not like the off-road package for the F-150. The off-road package for the F-150 costs a lot more because, I believe, it includes suspension upgrades and other things that come stock on the heavy duty trucks.

    Ford puts alot of engineering and testing into their new trucks. Although this is a big redesign, it's still part of a 50 year evolution for the F-Series. It's not like they're starting from scratch. Ford knows that the F-Series is their bread and butter. They know their reputation is on the line every time they make a change to the truck. These trucks will be quality trucks. Look at the critical acclaim about the redesigned F-150 and it's still being lauded now that it's been on the market a couple of years.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Shufire,.......I hope you see this message or someone tells you it's posted!! I don't know how your message found it's way to my e-mail but I would like to reply to your question regarding the F250 crew cab diesel. I also have one on order loaded to the roof, I expect to see it some time this June or July which is fine with me. I would like to know what kind of deal you worked out and the options you choose! I'll discuss more with you when you find this message. I have tried twice to reach you but the system was down over the weekend. Try to respond ASAP. Thanks Mr.off shore
  • ChewelahChewelah Posts: 1
    Has anyone seen any milage reports on the new 1999 heavy duty Fords. I have a 250 4x4 diesel crew cab about to be delivered and have yet to hear any reports on mpg.
  • cliffccliffc Posts: 9
    I saw a red F250 pass my on the highway. It sure looked nice! Definately a "man's" truck. Really couldn't tell much about it at 50mph.
  • rite3rite3 Posts: 69
    Chewela, Go to the ford deisel page and check out the chatroom. Several owners of the 99's have posts in conference area 2 concerning fuel mileage. I have seen posts claiming 20 to 23 mpg. Thats with the powerstroke of course. Good luck.
  • mharde2mharde2 Posts: 278
    For some great dino test results check out misc. truck post.
  • I've spent 2 wks looking both 99F250 and 98 Dodge. Ford diesel seems to have much more power & quieter. Bigger tires than Dodge. Dodge has smoother ride, really nice interior (leather w/wood dash). However, dodge won't deal much. I got the ford for 750 over invoice (loaded out Lariet) for 33075. Dodge wanted 34,500 for less options....
    Only mileage comment from friend stated 14-15 with Jayco camper (2K) & Ranger bass boat from Colorado to New Mexico
  • swandersswanders Posts: 8
    i'm only one week into my order for f250 4x4 crew cab v10 lariat. i did negotiate $200 under invoice at $29,525 plus they take my '94 f150 supercab at great trade in "as is" when new truck comes in. i just hope i have clearance to get into my garage!
  • gltglt Posts: 6
    I just bought a F250 Crew Cab 4x4 with the short box and diesel. So far I've only put 50 miles on it so I can't say much.
    Seems to run much better than my 94 Chevy diesel. The Ford engine runs smoother and makes less noise. The truck rides very quiet except under acceleration (you can hear the turbo and there is no mistake you're driving a diesel).
    One problem with it is all the people trying to figure out what I am driving, they can get a little close for comfort.
  • MerleMerle Posts: 8
    To add to the story, I got my F250 w/ V10 for $90. over invoice and got wholesale on a 1988 Chevy Suburban trade-in. My RV dealer tells me that the motorhome guys are reporting 13 MPG.
    Buying sight unseen does have some risks but I think Ford has a winner here.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    What kind of delivery time did you have with the new trucks and what part of the country do you live in?
  • MerleMerle Posts: 8
    I was quoted 12 weeks when I bought it 5 weeks ago. The dealer still cannot give me an ETA (Estimated Time of Arrival) from the factory. It sounds like that until he can give an ETA, we have no idea at all. I live in North Carolina.
  • AirCatAirCat Posts: 16
    Ordered my F-350 Crew Cab 4x4 V-10 SRW @ $100 over invoice with high book tradein on my Chev Blazer. Ordered it 5 weeks ago (as of tomarrow)still have no est. delivery date. Can't wait!!
  • rite3rite3 Posts: 69
    Aircat, please tell me you live somewhere in the northwest. All the dealers I've talked to cant come close to that kind of a deal. Most are looking for 5% over invioce here in seattle.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    rite3,

    I thought you already ordered your truck? Have you tried to call dealers in neighboring states or possibly other cities in Washington?
  • AirCatAirCat Posts: 16
    Eugene, Oregon - Kendall Ford

    I am not sure if they are taking any more orders, chatted with my sales rep at the mall last nite, he sez the area rep from Seattle was in to talk at a mtg here yest and was not optimistic on Kendall Ford getting any extra truck on thier allocation, (whatever that means) and was also not real optimistic on delivery dates for existing orders.
  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    According to my dealer in LA, the vehicles are being allocated rather sparingly. He said that the central US is getting far more than the west coast. His allocation is 12 from this build.
  • rite3rite3 Posts: 69
    BRUTUS,AirCat, No I havent ordered yet, I havent even drove one yet. I to am very compulsive and I dont want to have to sleep in the thing. I am just waiting and watching to see where the best deals are being made. I would drive to eugene in a heartbeat for that kind of a deal. Dave Smith Motors in Kellogg ID sells Dodge and GM and I would have driven that far for 58 bucks over invioce. But I want a superduty. I was considering getting a used 96 or 97, But they are going for 26 to 27k here and for that I might as well go for the ultimate. I have also heard that it is not wise to buy a used powerstroke unless you know the seller has maintained it correctly. That cavitation of the cylinder sleeves due to coolant imbalance can be a huge bill. Also I am waiting to see how you guys do on gas mileage. If the V10 gets what I am hearing its supposed to, the deisel is not right for me.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Could someone explain to me what cavitation of the cylinder sleeves due to coolant imbalance is and how to avoid it. As you can tell I know nothing about a diesel engine and I will have my first when I get my new HD f250 in several weeks.

    I would greatly appreciate any advice about maintaing a desiel. Thank in advance!
  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    mroffshore,
    Diesel engines are a bit different. First is that they just don't accelerate very well. Get used to it. If you develop the technique of gradual acceleration and an even steady throttle position your mileage will be about 50% better than gasoline. The more that you can use cruise control, the better the mileage.

    Maintenance is something that is done at every fuel stop. You should (MUST) check the oil. With a 10 Qt. crankcase you're not really concerned with oil loss but rather oil gain. The problem is a stuck injector putting more fuel in the cylinder than can be burned. This excess fuel eventually winds up in the crank case. As a lubricant, diesel fuel is not very good.

    Diesel fuel and water seem to like each other. Thus we have fuel and water separators. These need to be drained on a regular basis (5000 miles). It's not a big deal. You just open up the drain and watch to see if fuel or water is escaping. When the fuel starts escaping, just close the drain. You'll be doing this once every 2 or three months.

    Oil and filter changes need to be done according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Remember that bumper to bumper "rush hour" traffic is considered severe service and oil needs to be changed sooner. A diesel's engine oil collects soot from blow by caused by the engine's naturally higher compression ratio. The color of the oil goes very quickly from golden brown to sooty black.

    A fuel additive is a VERY good idea. The fuel additive does three things.
    First it adds a degree of lubricity to the fuel and the injection pump and injectors themselves will last longer.
    Second the fuel additive dispurses any water that may have condensed in your tank. When dispursed it can be burned with the fuel without harm.
    Third is the fuel additive prevents the formation of algae in your tank.
    Just measure out the 2-3 ounces or so at every fill up. I usually buy the additive at truck stops in gallon containers for $12-13. A baby (plastic) bottle is good for measuring.

    You will hear a lot of "used oats" from "experts" that never owned nor driven diesel vehicles about putting something in the fuel. I've heard about everything from automatic transmission fluid to peanut oil for diesel fuel additives. In a word, DON'T!!!! The diesel engine is designed to burn diesel #2 fuel and a very small amount of diesel fuel additive. You are spending 4 grand for the diesel option, don't mess it up by trying to burn something in the fuel that was never intended to be there in the first place. You wouldn't put grapefruit juice in your gasoline engine. Just apply the same logic to your diesel engine.

    There is also a consideration for the type of oil that you use. It should be an oil that is specifically formulated for a diesel engine. I have always heard that a Pennsylvania grade crude is great for lubricating but lousy for gasoline. I've always used Pennzoil, Quaker State, Amoly or Wolf's Head brands. I would stop at the refinery and buy it by the case when I lived in Ohio and Western PA. Lately I've found an auto parts store that will order the cases for me and I've been using Pennzoil. Chevron RPM DELO is another good choice as is Shell Rotella. Besides the weight of the oil (i.e. SAE 30 or 10W-30 or whatever) make sure that the API ratings of the oil meet the minimum specified AND the oil manufacturer specifically says the oil is for a diesel engine. There are two types of API ratings. These are 'C' something and 'S' something. My '86 needed SD and CC. My '92 needs SF and CD. The oils are now better and SH and CF. The SH CF can be used for any lesser requirement. While we're on this subject, if you change you're own oil and filter, please be sure to re-cycle your oil! Most service stations, Pep Boys, Kragen, etc. accept used oil for recycling.

    And now the most emotional topic for last. Cavitation is supposed to be a condition where bubbles are formed in both the engine block and cylinder sleeves. These bubbles are really holes or depressions in the two surfaces. The cause is electrolysis. Basically, any two dissimilar metals in an ionized solution may exhibit this condition. (This is what makes your battery work and generate an electrical current.) What makes it so bad is that when a steel sleeve is pressed into a cast iron block there is metal to metal contact. In terms of a battery this is a short circuit. We all know that if a flash light is left on after the battery goes dead and remains for an extended period the leak and corrode rapidly. In the diesel or any sleeved engine, the coolant is the possible cause of the problem. If the anti-freeze mixture is allowed to become ionized there may be a problem. If you change your anti-freeze as recommended there shouldn't be a problem. If you're paranoid, go to your pool supplies store or drug store and buy some pH test strips. Dip them every month in your radiator every month and compare the test strip with the color indicator. You want to keep the pH as close to neutral as possible. (I guess that means change the anti-freeze????) The cavitation problem is found in engines with steel sleeves. I have a '92 7.3L Diesel. In the FORD engine service manual there is no mention of sleeves nor a specification for coolant pH. I KNOW that the problem is real for commercial truckers and their diesel engines. How real is the problem for the Navistar (a.k.a. International Harvester) 7.3L V-8 used in the Ford Super Duty line? I don't really know. The '97, '98 and '99 engines may have sleeves, I don't know. I've always used a 50-50 mixture of anti-freeze and water, even out here in Southern California. I just make sure that the mixture is a good looking green color. I've not had any problems and I'm going on 6 and a half years with 128,000 miles. The anti-freeze was changed after each 3 years. (Ford recommendation)

    I realize that this is a lenghty post and I do apologize for my preaching but my only non wear related repairs have been leaking valve cover gasket, auto transmission (Ford's choice, not mine at 99,700 mi.) and an alternator.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    Impressive post professor Rich!
  • AirwolfAirwolf Posts: 142
    I've marked that post in the case I EVER buy this diesel I keep talking about. Thank you so much for putting together such a well thought out post!!

    Cheers! Hip Hip Hooray!
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Hey Rich,

    Your right on the money, up until the "cavitation" part. Cavitation is formed by either a propeller or high frequency sound waves to form partial vacuums, or "bubbles" if you will. When I trim my boat motor up too much, the prop cavitates or forms bubbles. When a diesel motor runs, it creates high frequency sound waves that gasoline engines do not, which induce this phenomena. If your "ionization" theory was correct, all gas engines would also demonstate this. Also, engine coolant is at no time in contact with the actual steel sleeves of the cylinders. A diesel engine vibrates like crazy, creatining hairline cracks in the cylinder heads.. These cracks can be filled with an additive to the engine coolant which prevent further damage. Talk to the parts guy at your local dealership about the additive. Thanks for the post, I appreciate hearing first hand knowledge from diesel owners.

    One last thing, when mixing radiator coolant 50/50 with water, use deionized water. This is not in relationship to the "ionization' theory, but assures you that you are not adding calcium to the coolant mixture. High levels of calcium is found in tap water. The calcium clogs up your radiator and then needs to be "rodded" out when you have it rebuilt and flushed.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    Do either of you guys have any words of wisdom that may not be in the owner's manual for those of us waiting on our V-10s?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    There is a site devoted to the cavitation issue of the 6.9/7.3 Navistar as installed by Ford. It covers problems, solutions, a few horror stories, and most importantly, AVOIDANCE

    http://www.interstat.net/ford/
  • rite3rite3 Posts: 69
    It looks like I opened up another can of worms with the cavitation thing, but atleast we all learned something. In regards to the original post, I stated that I wouldnt buy a used powerstroke unless I knew the previos owner had maintained the coolant correctly. I learned that this was a good idea from Jason who is the webmaster, and host at The Ford Deisel page. I have not owned a deisel yet and I may never, but I am trying to learn all I can about them. Here is the link to the ford deisel page www.abol.com/users/jlester
  • sussex88sussex88 Posts: 5
    After talking with our fleet manager who has worked on internationals for over 25 years and manages 27 fire engines (internationals) about the additives for the diesel engines his recommendation is Don't use them. The diesel fuel has gotten to be much cleaner. Just another opinion. We never have had any fuel related problems with our fire trucks. Just regular maintenance.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Dear Richflynn and fredwood, impressive most impressive, Obiewon may not have taught you guys well but someone did!!!!!!!!

    My wife and I have been teachers for fourteen years and my brother is the associate dean of the engineering school at Indiana U. I have worked with and taught some very sharp people. I was very impressed by your knowledge of the deisel. In fact it was more like a research paper! May be you should be a teacher if your not already.

    I can't thank you both enough for all your help, I printed every thing out. Since knowledge is the key to success, may be I will have some with the truck.

    If I have any other questions I would appreciate your help. Thanks again! Mroffshore
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Richflynn, I spoke with two of my colleague's this morning, Dr.Vandorn physics teacher,and K. Zamitt our chemistry teacher. Although they, like myself know nothing about diesel engines, they do know plenty about about electrolysis, ionization and cavitation, which I am all to familar with in terms of outboard motors.

    I do know that Fredwood is correct in the recommendation about using " deionized water" for extended life. We were going to look into your therory of the ionized coolant in relation to the engine block and cavitation.

    I find this all facinating, but what scares me, I would know none of this if it were not for modern tech.,RE:internet! I did'nt know for example, that the block holds 10 qts. of oil as you mentioned.

    In terms of draining the fuel-water separator, I assume I will be able to find it and use it. I would also like to look up the site on cavitation just to see what may be discussed and recommended.

    Anything else I should know, please post it for my and I'll let you know what the nutty professor has to say. They were laughing at me, they know I don't want to blow $37,000 and make a big booboo!
    My students are getting a little extra education also, see how helpful you have been!

    Also I thought I read some where on the net several weeks back, about the use of kerosene in the fuel. Is there some benifit to adding this to diesel fuel? I can't see how, maybe you know.

    Thanks again, Mroffshore
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Mroffshore,

    Are you planning on keeping your truck longer than 10 years or 100,000 miles and ready to do some maintance yourself? If yes, buy the diesel. It should save you money in the long run. If no, buy a gas engine. This is not the only criteria for selecting a diesel. Diesels are slow, loud and stinky, but they can tow the foundation out from under your house. Get over the cavitation issue, its not the only thing that can go wrong with a diesel. Just buy a gas engine truck and get on with your life.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Fredwood, thanks for the advice but I'm going with the diesel. I will be doing some towing and some traveling. I also feel the resale of the truck especially the crew cab I ordered, will not only have a greater resale value but it will sell much faster when the time comes. I do plan on keeping the truck for atleast 7-8 years.
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Good luck. Your resale value will only be as good as your maintenance and records are.

    I just had a conversation with one of my colleagues and he told me a story of a ford owner friend of his that had problems with a catalytic converter. He had it replaced due to driveability/gas mileage problems, among other parts trying to figure out what was wrong. (Definitely not the cheapest diagnosis approach) The dealer did not reimburse him for the cat converter nor would they replace it since he could not prove it was the issue. He then had it replaced by an independent shop.

    This guy apparently kept such good records that my colleague was able to graph his gas mileage average v.s. old and new converters. To make a long story short, he sent the graphs as proof along with a copy of his maintenance records to ford and a copy of his receipt showing the cost of the replacement converter...a few weeks later he got a check for the full amount.

    I personally could not keep such detailed records of every gas fillup...since life is too short to be that anal retentive...but it sure worked out for this guy.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Fredwood, good point again. I will keep good records but they won't be down to the last little detail. I wish I discussed this with you before I ordered the truck, maybe you or someone else may have been able to talk me into the gas engine.

    I was also looking at it this way and correct me if I'm way off base, I felt there would be more durability in the long run even if I do not trailer my boat long distances. I will take some hunting trips to Kansas and Nebraska and that general area and thats a haul from Jersey. I'll take my wife and kids skiing a few times a year and may be do some general driving up and down the east coast in the summer. I just felt in the long run the extra $4,000. was well worth it including what I mentioned earlier.

    I can't imagine especially assuming the fine quality that is in the power stroke, that there can be too too much to worry about in terms of maintance, durability and problems. I mean I honestly did not know anything about the maintance concerns until Fredlynn was kind enough to answer my post. How much more is there? How much will the dealer assist me with? Talk to you later Mroffshore
  • fredwoodfredwood Posts: 79
    Remember, the deal is not done until you sign with the finance guy at the dealership. Unfortuneately, you may lose your deposit. But then again if the truck is not exactly what you ordered then you can resind the contract without forfeiture.

    Anyway, the single most annoying thing you will encounter with diesel is that it is hard to start in the cold. The diesel fuel also gels when it gets cold too. It also can grow algae. The diesel engine will last for 300,000 miles but the injectors dont. They are cheaper to rebuild that a gas motor however. If I lived in an area where it snows, I would not have one. Get a Block heater or keep your truck in the garage. The advantages of a diesel get lost real quick if keep this truck less than 100,000 miles. The fuel and maintance savings are amortized over many thousands of miles, but can be had if you have the dedication.

    I dont know how your dealer assist you, he is in business to make money, so keep that in mind.
    Also, take off your rose colored glasses when discussing "the fine quality of the powerstroke". Every manufacture makes a lemon. Our 94 japanese built toyota camry is a piece of crap, while my 89 chevy truck has been a dream! Guess which one is going to be replaced soon...
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Fredwood, your right, but I'm one of those guys that honors an agreement no matter what. I told them to order it for me and I am going to follow through with it. Also I am doing my own financing I refuse to pay 8.5-8.9% though the dealer with my credit. I hope in the long run I made the right choice. Our winters on the southern coast of NJ are mild but can be cold at times. Since I will have a block heater with the truck I should be ok. Thanks Mroffshore!
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Richflynn, I hope you read my post.When you get a chance respond. You took alot of time to type all that info out for me and I want you to know how much I appreciate it. Also as you can see Fredwood as given me some things to think about. What do you honestly think about the power stroke and what do you base it on. Don't for get about the question I asked about the kerosene in the fuel as an additive. I read it on the net some where.
    Mroffshore
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    mroffshore,

    Your dealer should be able to get a better interest rate than he is quoting you. My dealer matched my credit union rate of 7.75% for 60 months. My credit union would have gone 7.25% for 48 months and 6.75% for 36 months. I doubt the dealer would have matched the 48 and 36 month rates, but they usually have the ability to be pretty competitive with the 60 month rates if you have good credit. A lot of dealers use a pool of financial institutions so they can shop the rates. The financial institutions are eager to be competitive since the dealers offer the potential for a lot of business.
  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    I'm trying to get a definitive answer on the maintenance REQUIRED for the cavitation issue from Navistar. Their tech support was closed when I called their customer service today.

    This truck will be my third diesel. I'll never own a gasoline engine vehicle again (for my vehicle, my wife is a different story). There are a few things over and above that need to be considered with diesels.

    The drive-ability of a diesel is so much better due to the torque. It takes so much less effort to maintain a reasonable consistent speed.

    Unfortunately, a diesel doesn't accelerate very well. This is VERY good if there are young drivers in the family. My '86 was a hand me down to my younger son at age 19. The truck did teach him patience behind the wheel.

    With a diesel it takes much more effort to 'Play in Traffic'. (LA pass time)

    I've driven several vehicles from LA to Las Vegas. The gasoline ones were much more difficult to fly than either of the diesel trucks.

    Unfortunately the '92 has a governor that limits the top speed to the 97-98 Mph. range. The '86 never felt that comfortable over 85 Mph. I feel that this limitation is more truck rather than diesel.

    There is one very important issue when ordering your new truck. That is the rear end ratio. (The higher the number, the more engine RPMs necessary to move at a given speed.) I have the 3.73:1 rear end and with the automatic (E4OD) overdrive transmission, 2000 RPM is about 75 MPH. All diesel engines have a much lower maximum RPM than gasoline. (Mine is 3750 RPM.) This is such a critical concern that as you approach the maximum RPM, the fuel flow is restricted to prevent too many RPMs. With a 4.10:1 rear end it will take about 2200 RPM to reach 75 MPH. Fuel mileage will be less. HOWEVER you'll may want the 4.10:1 rear end for towing. If you're towing the majority of the time the 4.10 (or 4.30) may be a good choice. If you are towing only occasionally, an auxillary gear on the transmission may be a better choice.

    As fredwood says, the diesel has fantastic pulling power. I've used the '86 to pull major Oleander bushes out of the ground. In fact I broke a 1 inch nylon rope on a stubborn bush.

    Actually when I look at my maintenance records, I think that my costs are less than a gasoline engine. I know that the fuel costs are probably about a third less than gasoline, especially the way I drive.
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Brutus, Your probably right about the interest rate issue, I'm sure I could negotiate something a little better. Not to cheat the Fed but it's just as easy for me to take out a home equity 5yr and get the benefit of the deduction.You have to look at the 6.99% as a good rate. I can always double up here and there on payments and get it down to 4 yr. I plan to finance about 50-60% of the truck cost. Thanks Mroffshore!
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Richflynn......another impressive post, I hope you can type fast, other wise your going to hold a grudge against me for all this work your doing! HAHA. I do know a little about gear ratio's and I opted for the 3.73 LTD SL I figured this would be the best application for me.

    I have two good friends that have the crew cab auto with the power stroke and they love it. One of them who is a mother of 6, basically drives it back and forth to work, only a mile away. Maybe a trip here and there down to Fla. I was convinced after being around them and the trucks over the last 3-4 years this is what I wanted. I'll do some driving like I mentioned to Fredwood.

    When you do get that info let me know. Again thanks very much for all your insight and time! If I could reach through this screen I'd shake your hand!
    Mroffshore
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Brutus and Fredwood, Yes I appreciate all your help also! Mroffshore
  • mroffshoremroffshore Posts: 148
    Glt, Thank you for those suggestions also. When your only familar with the gas engine it helps when people are generious with input! Also I'm spending alot of money and better know what heck I'm in for.

    Thanks Mroffshore
  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    Everyone,
    On the cavitation issue.
    I had a lengthy conversation with Navistar customer support (800) 44 trucks. In a nut shell, (Something new for me.) the cavitation issue is a real one but not very likely in the Ford Super Duty application. Cavitation is most likely to cause problems in a high load / high horsepower output situation. About the only ones that I can think of is snow plowing or towing.

    Navistar fax'd me a copy of some sort of presentation. (It looks like Power Point note pages with three slides per page.) It was more of a sales pitch for their 'Fleet Guard' product. The interesting thing was that the presentation really played down the problem.

    On this issue there are two inconsistencies. An earlier post mentioned a wetting solution as the additive. The Navistar presentation suggests checking the coolant for pH when determining when to add replenishment. I did not think that the pH of a wetting solution was relevant to anything.
  • richflynnrichflynn Posts: 147
    On gear ratios of a rear end.
    The number represents the number of engine revolutions necessary to turn the rear wheels once. Thus a 4.11 rear end is really a ratio expressed as 4.11 engine revolutions to one wheel revolution. The short hand is 4.11:1 but is usually shortened to 4.11 rear end.

    To travel at a given speed, like 60 MPH, a vehicle with a 4.11 rear end will turn more engine revolutions than an identical vehicle with a 3.73 rear end. So why would any one want a higher ratio rear end? The answers are quicker acceleration and more pulling power. A lower ratio rear end will give better mileage and less engine wear due to lower engine revolutions.

    There are drawbacks to extremes in either direction. Too low a ratio and the engine may be lugging at freeway speeds and very poor acceleration but better mileage. To high a ratio and the engine may be running close to the red line at freeway speeds, poor mileage but great acceleration.

    My personal OPINION is that a 3.55:1 is best for a daily commuter and 4.30:1 is best for towing a heavy 5th wheel. (Ford offers neither with a diesel in the super duty.) Obviously you can't have both, or can you? There are after market auxiliary transmissions. These usually replace the tail shaft of the existing auto transmission and offer either step up or step down gearing. Unless you're going to be towing the majority of the time, I would get the 3.73:1 rear end and if necessary a auxiliary transmission to yield a 4.30:1 final ratio. (About 15% step up in ratio or 15% more engine revolutions for the same number of rear wheel revolutions.)

    One final OPINION about towing with an automatic transmission. Don't be afraid to shift for your self. As you are climbing a hill, there is no law against shifting the automatic transmission to achieve sufficient engine revolutions. I haven't towed with a gasoline engine but on my diesel I ALWAYS watch the color of the exhaust. As the exhaust becomes black and sooty I back off of the throttle until the exhaust is clear. If the exhaust is black, you're not burning all the carbon in the fuel and therefore some of the chemical energy in the fuel is lost. If you're not getting all the energy out of your fuel, you're wasting money.
  • BrutusBrutus Posts: 1,113
    Rich,

    The SuperDuty has a 3.73, 4.10 and a 4.30. I don't have my notes in front of me, but I'm sure one of the lower gears is available with the diesel. I think it is the 4.10. My dad has a 97 Ford 2x4 F-350 and he has the 4.10, I believe. He has DRW. Is it possible, the lower ratio is only available with the DRW? I ordered the 3.73, which will be more than adequate for what I plan to do with it.
  • I'm in the process of putting together my bid sheet to several Florida Ford dealerships, and any data on gas mileage for the V-8 and V-10 gas engines would be greatly appreciated. Of particular interest would be "highway" conditions. The truck will see a lot of miles.

    The truck will be a F-250 Super Duty SuperCab, long bed, 2 wheel drive.

    Also, if anyone has a recommended dealer/salesman in the Central or South Florida area...that would be great.

    Thanks
  • Sorry, nearly forgot to mention...the transmission would be the 4-speed OD automatic.

    Thanks.
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