Any 1999 F-250 owners?
Has anyone purchased a 1999 F-250 yet? What are
your likes, dislikes? How does it ride? Any
problems? Thanks!
your likes, dislikes? How does it ride? Any
problems? Thanks!
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Ford puts alot of engineering and testing into their new trucks. Although this is a big redesign, it's still part of a 50 year evolution for the F-Series. It's not like they're starting from scratch. Ford knows that the F-Series is their bread and butter. They know their reputation is on the line every time they make a change to the truck. These trucks will be quality trucks. Look at the critical acclaim about the redesigned F-150 and it's still being lauded now that it's been on the market a couple of years.
Only mileage comment from friend stated 14-15 with Jayco camper (2K) & Ranger bass boat from Colorado to New Mexico
Seems to run much better than my 94 Chevy diesel. The Ford engine runs smoother and makes less noise. The truck rides very quiet except under acceleration (you can hear the turbo and there is no mistake you're driving a diesel).
One problem with it is all the people trying to figure out what I am driving, they can get a little close for comfort.
Buying sight unseen does have some risks but I think Ford has a winner here.
I thought you already ordered your truck? Have you tried to call dealers in neighboring states or possibly other cities in Washington?
I am not sure if they are taking any more orders, chatted with my sales rep at the mall last nite, he sez the area rep from Seattle was in to talk at a mtg here yest and was not optimistic on Kendall Ford getting any extra truck on thier allocation, (whatever that means) and was also not real optimistic on delivery dates for existing orders.
I would greatly appreciate any advice about maintaing a desiel. Thank in advance!
Diesel engines are a bit different. First is that they just don't accelerate very well. Get used to it. If you develop the technique of gradual acceleration and an even steady throttle position your mileage will be about 50% better than gasoline. The more that you can use cruise control, the better the mileage.
Maintenance is something that is done at every fuel stop. You should (MUST) check the oil. With a 10 Qt. crankcase you're not really concerned with oil loss but rather oil gain. The problem is a stuck injector putting more fuel in the cylinder than can be burned. This excess fuel eventually winds up in the crank case. As a lubricant, diesel fuel is not very good.
Diesel fuel and water seem to like each other. Thus we have fuel and water separators. These need to be drained on a regular basis (5000 miles). It's not a big deal. You just open up the drain and watch to see if fuel or water is escaping. When the fuel starts escaping, just close the drain. You'll be doing this once every 2 or three months.
Oil and filter changes need to be done according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Remember that bumper to bumper "rush hour" traffic is considered severe service and oil needs to be changed sooner. A diesel's engine oil collects soot from blow by caused by the engine's naturally higher compression ratio. The color of the oil goes very quickly from golden brown to sooty black.
A fuel additive is a VERY good idea. The fuel additive does three things.
First it adds a degree of lubricity to the fuel and the injection pump and injectors themselves will last longer.
Second the fuel additive dispurses any water that may have condensed in your tank. When dispursed it can be burned with the fuel without harm.
Third is the fuel additive prevents the formation of algae in your tank.
Just measure out the 2-3 ounces or so at every fill up. I usually buy the additive at truck stops in gallon containers for $12-13. A baby (plastic) bottle is good for measuring.
You will hear a lot of "used oats" from "experts" that never owned nor driven diesel vehicles about putting something in the fuel. I've heard about everything from automatic transmission fluid to peanut oil for diesel fuel additives. In a word, DON'T!!!! The diesel engine is designed to burn diesel #2 fuel and a very small amount of diesel fuel additive. You are spending 4 grand for the diesel option, don't mess it up by trying to burn something in the fuel that was never intended to be there in the first place. You wouldn't put grapefruit juice in your gasoline engine. Just apply the same logic to your diesel engine.
There is also a consideration for the type of oil that you use. It should be an oil that is specifically formulated for a diesel engine. I have always heard that a Pennsylvania grade crude is great for lubricating but lousy for gasoline. I've always used Pennzoil, Quaker State, Amoly or Wolf's Head brands. I would stop at the refinery and buy it by the case when I lived in Ohio and Western PA. Lately I've found an auto parts store that will order the cases for me and I've been using Pennzoil. Chevron RPM DELO is another good choice as is Shell Rotella. Besides the weight of the oil (i.e. SAE 30 or 10W-30 or whatever) make sure that the API ratings of the oil meet the minimum specified AND the oil manufacturer specifically says the oil is for a diesel engine. There are two types of API ratings. These are 'C' something and 'S' something. My '86 needed SD and CC. My '92 needs SF and CD. The oils are now better and SH and CF. The SH CF can be used for any lesser requirement. While we're on this subject, if you change you're own oil and filter, please be sure to re-cycle your oil! Most service stations, Pep Boys, Kragen, etc. accept used oil for recycling.
And now the most emotional topic for last. Cavitation is supposed to be a condition where bubbles are formed in both the engine block and cylinder sleeves. These bubbles are really holes or depressions in the two surfaces. The cause is electrolysis. Basically, any two dissimilar metals in an ionized solution may exhibit this condition. (This is what makes your battery work and generate an electrical current.) What makes it so bad is that when a steel sleeve is pressed into a cast iron block there is metal to metal contact. In terms of a battery this is a short circuit. We all know that if a flash light is left on after the battery goes dead and remains for an extended period the leak and corrode rapidly. In the diesel or any sleeved engine, the coolant is the possible cause of the problem. If the anti-freeze mixture is allowed to become ionized there may be a problem. If you change your anti-freeze as recommended there shouldn't be a problem. If you're paranoid, go to your pool supplies store or drug store and buy some pH test strips. Dip them every month in your radiator every month and compare the test strip with the color indicator. You want to keep the pH as close to neutral as possible. (I guess that means change the anti-freeze????) The cavitation problem is found in engines with steel sleeves. I have a '92 7.3L Diesel. In the FORD engine service manual there is no mention of sleeves nor a specification for coolant pH. I KNOW that the problem is real for commercial truckers and their diesel engines. How real is the problem for the Navistar (a.k.a. International Harvester) 7.3L V-8 used in the Ford Super Duty line? I don't really know. The '97, '98 and '99 engines may have sleeves, I don't know. I've always used a 50-50 mixture of anti-freeze and water, even out here in Southern California. I just make sure that the mixture is a good looking green color. I've not had any problems and I'm going on 6 and a half years with 128,000 miles. The anti-freeze was changed after each 3 years. (Ford recommendation)
I realize that this is a lenghty post and I do apologize for my preaching but my only non wear related repairs have been leaking valve cover gasket, auto transmission (Ford's choice, not mine at 99,700 mi.) and an alternator.
Cheers! Hip Hip Hooray!
Your right on the money, up until the "cavitation" part. Cavitation is formed by either a propeller or high frequency sound waves to form partial vacuums, or "bubbles" if you will. When I trim my boat motor up too much, the prop cavitates or forms bubbles. When a diesel motor runs, it creates high frequency sound waves that gasoline engines do not, which induce this phenomena. If your "ionization" theory was correct, all gas engines would also demonstate this. Also, engine coolant is at no time in contact with the actual steel sleeves of the cylinders. A diesel engine vibrates like crazy, creatining hairline cracks in the cylinder heads.. These cracks can be filled with an additive to the engine coolant which prevent further damage. Talk to the parts guy at your local dealership about the additive. Thanks for the post, I appreciate hearing first hand knowledge from diesel owners.
One last thing, when mixing radiator coolant 50/50 with water, use deionized water. This is not in relationship to the "ionization' theory, but assures you that you are not adding calcium to the coolant mixture. High levels of calcium is found in tap water. The calcium clogs up your radiator and then needs to be "rodded" out when you have it rebuilt and flushed.
http://www.interstat.net/ford/
My wife and I have been teachers for fourteen years and my brother is the associate dean of the engineering school at Indiana U. I have worked with and taught some very sharp people. I was very impressed by your knowledge of the deisel. In fact it was more like a research paper! May be you should be a teacher if your not already.
I can't thank you both enough for all your help, I printed every thing out. Since knowledge is the key to success, may be I will have some with the truck.
If I have any other questions I would appreciate your help. Thanks again! Mroffshore
I do know that Fredwood is correct in the recommendation about using " deionized water" for extended life. We were going to look into your therory of the ionized coolant in relation to the engine block and cavitation.
I find this all facinating, but what scares me, I would know none of this if it were not for modern tech.,RE:internet! I did'nt know for example, that the block holds 10 qts. of oil as you mentioned.
In terms of draining the fuel-water separator, I assume I will be able to find it and use it. I would also like to look up the site on cavitation just to see what may be discussed and recommended.
Anything else I should know, please post it for my and I'll let you know what the nutty professor has to say. They were laughing at me, they know I don't want to blow $37,000 and make a big booboo!
My students are getting a little extra education also, see how helpful you have been!
Also I thought I read some where on the net several weeks back, about the use of kerosene in the fuel. Is there some benifit to adding this to diesel fuel? I can't see how, maybe you know.
Thanks again, Mroffshore
Are you planning on keeping your truck longer than 10 years or 100,000 miles and ready to do some maintance yourself? If yes, buy the diesel. It should save you money in the long run. If no, buy a gas engine. This is not the only criteria for selecting a diesel. Diesels are slow, loud and stinky, but they can tow the foundation out from under your house. Get over the cavitation issue, its not the only thing that can go wrong with a diesel. Just buy a gas engine truck and get on with your life.
I just had a conversation with one of my colleagues and he told me a story of a ford owner friend of his that had problems with a catalytic converter. He had it replaced due to driveability/gas mileage problems, among other parts trying to figure out what was wrong. (Definitely not the cheapest diagnosis approach) The dealer did not reimburse him for the cat converter nor would they replace it since he could not prove it was the issue. He then had it replaced by an independent shop.
This guy apparently kept such good records that my colleague was able to graph his gas mileage average v.s. old and new converters. To make a long story short, he sent the graphs as proof along with a copy of his maintenance records to ford and a copy of his receipt showing the cost of the replacement converter...a few weeks later he got a check for the full amount.
I personally could not keep such detailed records of every gas fillup...since life is too short to be that anal retentive...but it sure worked out for this guy.
I was also looking at it this way and correct me if I'm way off base, I felt there would be more durability in the long run even if I do not trailer my boat long distances. I will take some hunting trips to Kansas and Nebraska and that general area and thats a haul from Jersey. I'll take my wife and kids skiing a few times a year and may be do some general driving up and down the east coast in the summer. I just felt in the long run the extra $4,000. was well worth it including what I mentioned earlier.
I can't imagine especially assuming the fine quality that is in the power stroke, that there can be too too much to worry about in terms of maintance, durability and problems. I mean I honestly did not know anything about the maintance concerns until Fredlynn was kind enough to answer my post. How much more is there? How much will the dealer assist me with? Talk to you later Mroffshore
Anyway, the single most annoying thing you will encounter with diesel is that it is hard to start in the cold. The diesel fuel also gels when it gets cold too. It also can grow algae. The diesel engine will last for 300,000 miles but the injectors dont. They are cheaper to rebuild that a gas motor however. If I lived in an area where it snows, I would not have one. Get a Block heater or keep your truck in the garage. The advantages of a diesel get lost real quick if keep this truck less than 100,000 miles. The fuel and maintance savings are amortized over many thousands of miles, but can be had if you have the dedication.
I dont know how your dealer assist you, he is in business to make money, so keep that in mind.
Also, take off your rose colored glasses when discussing "the fine quality of the powerstroke". Every manufacture makes a lemon. Our 94 japanese built toyota camry is a piece of crap, while my 89 chevy truck has been a dream! Guess which one is going to be replaced soon...
Mroffshore
Your dealer should be able to get a better interest rate than he is quoting you. My dealer matched my credit union rate of 7.75% for 60 months. My credit union would have gone 7.25% for 48 months and 6.75% for 36 months. I doubt the dealer would have matched the 48 and 36 month rates, but they usually have the ability to be pretty competitive with the 60 month rates if you have good credit. A lot of dealers use a pool of financial institutions so they can shop the rates. The financial institutions are eager to be competitive since the dealers offer the potential for a lot of business.
This truck will be my third diesel. I'll never own a gasoline engine vehicle again (for my vehicle, my wife is a different story). There are a few things over and above that need to be considered with diesels.
The drive-ability of a diesel is so much better due to the torque. It takes so much less effort to maintain a reasonable consistent speed.
Unfortunately, a diesel doesn't accelerate very well. This is VERY good if there are young drivers in the family. My '86 was a hand me down to my younger son at age 19. The truck did teach him patience behind the wheel.
With a diesel it takes much more effort to 'Play in Traffic'. (LA pass time)
I've driven several vehicles from LA to Las Vegas. The gasoline ones were much more difficult to fly than either of the diesel trucks.
Unfortunately the '92 has a governor that limits the top speed to the 97-98 Mph. range. The '86 never felt that comfortable over 85 Mph. I feel that this limitation is more truck rather than diesel.
There is one very important issue when ordering your new truck. That is the rear end ratio. (The higher the number, the more engine RPMs necessary to move at a given speed.) I have the 3.73:1 rear end and with the automatic (E4OD) overdrive transmission, 2000 RPM is about 75 MPH. All diesel engines have a much lower maximum RPM than gasoline. (Mine is 3750 RPM.) This is such a critical concern that as you approach the maximum RPM, the fuel flow is restricted to prevent too many RPMs. With a 4.10:1 rear end it will take about 2200 RPM to reach 75 MPH. Fuel mileage will be less. HOWEVER you'll may want the 4.10:1 rear end for towing. If you're towing the majority of the time the 4.10 (or 4.30) may be a good choice. If you are towing only occasionally, an auxillary gear on the transmission may be a better choice.
As fredwood says, the diesel has fantastic pulling power. I've used the '86 to pull major Oleander bushes out of the ground. In fact I broke a 1 inch nylon rope on a stubborn bush.
Actually when I look at my maintenance records, I think that my costs are less than a gasoline engine. I know that the fuel costs are probably about a third less than gasoline, especially the way I drive.
I have two good friends that have the crew cab auto with the power stroke and they love it. One of them who is a mother of 6, basically drives it back and forth to work, only a mile away. Maybe a trip here and there down to Fla. I was convinced after being around them and the trucks over the last 3-4 years this is what I wanted. I'll do some driving like I mentioned to Fredwood.
When you do get that info let me know. Again thanks very much for all your insight and time! If I could reach through this screen I'd shake your hand!
Mroffshore
Thanks Mroffshore
On the cavitation issue.
I had a lengthy conversation with Navistar customer support (800) 44 trucks. In a nut shell, (Something new for me.) the cavitation issue is a real one but not very likely in the Ford Super Duty application. Cavitation is most likely to cause problems in a high load / high horsepower output situation. About the only ones that I can think of is snow plowing or towing.
Navistar fax'd me a copy of some sort of presentation. (It looks like Power Point note pages with three slides per page.) It was more of a sales pitch for their 'Fleet Guard' product. The interesting thing was that the presentation really played down the problem.
On this issue there are two inconsistencies. An earlier post mentioned a wetting solution as the additive. The Navistar presentation suggests checking the coolant for pH when determining when to add replenishment. I did not think that the pH of a wetting solution was relevant to anything.
The number represents the number of engine revolutions necessary to turn the rear wheels once. Thus a 4.11 rear end is really a ratio expressed as 4.11 engine revolutions to one wheel revolution. The short hand is 4.11:1 but is usually shortened to 4.11 rear end.
To travel at a given speed, like 60 MPH, a vehicle with a 4.11 rear end will turn more engine revolutions than an identical vehicle with a 3.73 rear end. So why would any one want a higher ratio rear end? The answers are quicker acceleration and more pulling power. A lower ratio rear end will give better mileage and less engine wear due to lower engine revolutions.
There are drawbacks to extremes in either direction. Too low a ratio and the engine may be lugging at freeway speeds and very poor acceleration but better mileage. To high a ratio and the engine may be running close to the red line at freeway speeds, poor mileage but great acceleration.
My personal OPINION is that a 3.55:1 is best for a daily commuter and 4.30:1 is best for towing a heavy 5th wheel. (Ford offers neither with a diesel in the super duty.) Obviously you can't have both, or can you? There are after market auxiliary transmissions. These usually replace the tail shaft of the existing auto transmission and offer either step up or step down gearing. Unless you're going to be towing the majority of the time, I would get the 3.73:1 rear end and if necessary a auxiliary transmission to yield a 4.30:1 final ratio. (About 15% step up in ratio or 15% more engine revolutions for the same number of rear wheel revolutions.)
One final OPINION about towing with an automatic transmission. Don't be afraid to shift for your self. As you are climbing a hill, there is no law against shifting the automatic transmission to achieve sufficient engine revolutions. I haven't towed with a gasoline engine but on my diesel I ALWAYS watch the color of the exhaust. As the exhaust becomes black and sooty I back off of the throttle until the exhaust is clear. If the exhaust is black, you're not burning all the carbon in the fuel and therefore some of the chemical energy in the fuel is lost. If you're not getting all the energy out of your fuel, you're wasting money.
The SuperDuty has a 3.73, 4.10 and a 4.30. I don't have my notes in front of me, but I'm sure one of the lower gears is available with the diesel. I think it is the 4.10. My dad has a 97 Ford 2x4 F-350 and he has the 4.10, I believe. He has DRW. Is it possible, the lower ratio is only available with the DRW? I ordered the 3.73, which will be more than adequate for what I plan to do with it.
The truck will be a F-250 Super Duty SuperCab, long bed, 2 wheel drive.
Also, if anyone has a recommended dealer/salesman in the Central or South Florida area...that would be great.
Thanks
Thanks.