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Fuel and Oil Additives

I didn't see a thread about fuel and oil additives (you know that huge shelf at the wal-mart with like 200 brands claiming to clean and stop leaks). Anyhow, to introduce myself, I have a 1994 Chevrolet Z71 extended cab with the 5.7 liter engine. I am experiencing some hesitation starting off in the 0 to 1000 RPM range and I was just wondering if anyone had any particular experience with some of the fuel injection cleaners like STP and the like.

Anyhow you are all welcome to post any pros and cons that you may have had with all those aftermarket additives.

Keep is rubber side down!!! :)
Swoosh Man


  • to my gas tank every 3000 miles, but I'm not sure if it needs to be done so often. Does anyone know if fuel additives really keep intake valves and injectors clean?

    Is good quality gas enough?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    The same additives are already put in gasoline.

    The oil companies also say nothing more is needed.

    Some of those same companies also sell gasoline additives.

    Those pictures of cleaned up engines seem too good to be true.

    FTC sued companies for oil additives not living up to representations.

    Didn't sue any Gasoline Additive companies. Most made both oil and Gas Additives.

    Fuel injection repairs are expensive.

    Additives are cheap.

    I personally use them. I also do a 3 stage fuel injector cleaner every 15,000 miles. I had a car that needed premium until I got the big treatment. Now it uses regular.

    I like them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    I'm very dubious about over-the-counter additives you buy at 7-11. Personally, I only trust industrial grade additives that take off skin and paint and cause birds to drop out of trees when you open the top. They aren't easy to find and they are expensive, but they work.

    I think most off the shelf additives are harmless and just duplicate (if that) additives already in your fuel.


  • A local Texaco station sells 110 octane Union 76 racing gasoline. Of course it's for "off-road" use only.

    A friend told me that this gasoline gets its high octane rating from nitro-methane. Is that true?

    If a couple of gallons of this gasoline happen to get into my Chevy, will it clean the intake valves or will it damage the engine? It costs $3.50 a gallon. It sounds expensive, but it's alot less than $6.00 for a bottle of Techron concentrate, if it works.
  • mrdetailer,

    What is a 3 stage fuel injector cleaner and how does it work?

    Mr. Shifty,

    Who sells the industrial grade additives? Which brand do you use?
  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Posts: 207
    Techron injector cleaner seems to make an improvement. I add a bottle at each oil change.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    This is done by professionals. I have had my mechanics to it for $100.00, and Jiffy Lube for about $40.00. They seem to perform about the same. This is done at the same time as the oil is changed.

    1. A cleaner is put into the oil.
    2. A large bottle is added to the fuel injection system through the vacuum hose while the engine is running.
    3. Another bottle is placed in the gas tank.

    Stage 2 is obviously some serious stuff. The workers use gloves safety glasses, and a fume mask when they put it in the bottle. As it runs into the vacuum hose it really stinks while it is cleaning out the carbon. I did 2 this year. One was bad and the bottle was almost gone before the carbon smell went away. The other smelled much better about half way through.

    On the car that was bad, I had to use premium gas for a smooth ride, even though I get a tuneup yearly. After the treatment it has been running great on regular.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    The higher the octane the slower the burn is in the cylinder. People using higher octane than needed are simply throwing their money away. I wish they could throw some my way. The only time you should use it is if your car is "knocking" And then you should get that looked at because your timing may be out of spec. High octane could in fact cause more carbon in your car and less power because it could burn after the optimum time for it to deliver it's max power. Oh well, the gas companies need the extra cash.
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    Get yourself one of these and quit foolin' around:

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    "iondustrial" Injector cleaner:

    I'll have to check the label...I buy it from my friend who runs a Porsche repair shop and he usually dumps it in for me because I don't even want to be near it (he doesn't either, but he's careful). But I had a bad injector acting up on my Benz diesel and it fixed the problem completely in about 25 miles.


  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    As has been said before, MOST of the cleaners a fuel system needs are already included in the gasoline. BUT, we all get a tank or two of bad gasoline once in a while so using a couple bottles of an injector cleaner each year isn't a bad idea. It's cheap insurance. Just be sure to use a good one.

    Chevron Techron is good but over-use of this stuff can foul your engine oil. Chevron recommends this stuff be used a couple weeks before your next oil change just to be safe.

    I've had great results with Redline SI-1. I gave a third of a bottle to my buddy whose throttle-body-injected 1981 VW Rabbit was getting a miserable 24mpg and in one tankful, he was back over 30mpg. Zoinks!

    Just beware of all the glitzy junk out there. Putting mediocre cleaners or cheap alcohols in a flashy bottle and charging $5-10 seems to be a fad these days. Don't buy into it!

    I also like to use a little isopropyl alcohol now and then to keep my fuel system moisture free. Just be sure to avoid anything with "methanol" in it. That stuff is so corrosive, it shouldn't even be on the shelves anymore!

    --- Bror Jace
  • ygriegaygriega Posts: 18
    For what it's worth: I've been using STP Concentrated fuel injector cleaner for the last 10 years at every oil change (3K miles) on new Ford cars and trucks and have not had any clogged injectors nor any fuel system problems. Maybe it works--maybe it doesn't, but it hasn't caused any problems at all.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Step #2 does nothing to clean your injectors. It is introduced to your engine through a vacuum source and only cleans the oooey gooey stuff from the crankcase that gets inside of the intake manifold via the PCV valve; it also cleans the combustion chambers, catalytic converter, and oxygen sensor. Fuel goes through injectors, not air, therefore the intake cleaner doesn't pass through the injectors at all. The stuff they add to the tank of gas is what is supposed to clean the injectors. How do I know this? I work at Jiffy Lube now, unfortunately.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    I sort of agree. I'm not as religious as you. I use the stuff-concentrated-although not necessarily STP (who knows what concentrated means).
  • john319john319 Posts: 37
    If so can you tell me where the pcv valve is located on a 99 Lexus ES300
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    it should be on the valve cover closest to the firewall.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Not sure if (like any fuel additive) it works but the PI is a concentrate. On my Camry with 135,000 miles I squirt an ounce in at every tankful since car was new. So, I cannot say whether it has made any diff, no injector issues yet. Also do the same to two other cars and no injector issues as yet. But, to the cars I do not treat, or do once every few months there are no issues either. SO, I am probably wasting $$$ but.
  • timadamstimadams Posts: 294
    Octane usually depends on compression ratio more than anything else. A high-compression engine will develop more horsepower, but will also be prone to early detonation of fuel because the greater squeezing of the air/fuel mixture heats it up to the explosion point.

    The higher the octane, the more resistant it is to early detonation. There is no more energy in higher octane gas. You won't get any more power from racing fuel than whatever your car manual says to use. In any event, always go with the lowest octane gas you can use that doesn't ping your engine.
  • ekingaraekingara Posts: 1
    I own a '95 Chrysler, Cirrus Lxi. My power antennae broke; I bought one from the dealer, and tried to replace it myself to avoid picking the $70 tab. I accidentally opened the motor that operates the antennae, and not only did the antennae and radio stop working, but the central locking/alarm system went dead!

    The motor is making a soft whining noise, and I believe that someone who is good with motors can help me out; there are two small springs which I think I have replaced wrongly, inside two trough-like silver pieces that are on one side of the motor. The motor is whining slowly until I join the motor (plus supporting antennae) to the side supports, and it stops dead. I know that if I put back the small pieces of the motor back, I will avoid going to the dealer, this time for a $700 tab! Help, anyone?
  • john319john319 Posts: 37
    you're in the wrong topic.
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