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First, the 7/8 button on the Keyless Entry System doesn't work. Is this more likely to be the keypad, or a wiring/connector issue? Where is the 'box' that handles all of the keyless entry stuff? The system seems to work just fine other than the 7/8 button.
Second, the Passenger-side Rear power door lock isn't working. When you actuate the locks, you can hear a medium-loud whirring from that door, but the lock knob stays put. I've got the doorliner off, but I don't want to go further without advice.
Those are the two that I think I want to tackle this weekend. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-kevin
As to the doorlock motor, I see a round, black part on the back of the door with a rivet in the middle of it. It appears to be the shock mount holding up the motor. I guess I just drill out that rivet and work the motor out?
They sure didn't leave much room for maneuvering in there, did they?
Thanks,
-kevin
Before tearing into the keypad, try the following:
To enable autolock.............
First enter the permanent code. Within five seconds depress and release the 3/4 key while holding the 7/8 key depressed.
Dave in Western NY
Have you checked the volume of fluid in the transmission?
The trans range sensor may be faulty if it is original.
Do you have a name for that switch, that would be helpful. Thanks.
I returned it to the rebuilder and he replaced some of the parts he replaced, overdrive solenoid. I think he is better at rebuilding than diagnosing.
I'll probably have the trans. range sensor replaced(original) and hope for the best.
When excellorating the tranny shifts smoothly.
I have a 1988 Lincoln Town Car, which I have had for over 7 years now and I had the A/C fixed at the end of April/07 and it was working fine including the automatic climate control. Last week, I had the cooling system flushed and radiator replaced and heater hoses also replaced. When I got the car back, the A/C is working fine on manual blower control, but when I put it on Automatic, the fan cuts out when I accelerate. It comes back when the car gets up to speed. I took it back to the mechanics that did the work and they can't find anything wrong, although they acknowledge that the system is acting in this way. Anyone else have any ideas about what can be causing this problem in a system that has always worked properly as long as I have had the car. Please note that this garage is not an A/C specialists, but the garage that serviced the A/C in April was a specialist. Any help or suggestions would be gratefully accepted. Thanks
When driving, there is an odd odor and a milky-like mist??? coming from the a/c vent.
I do not have a clue about this. Any help?
Thanks,
Da Bunny :confuse:
I believe they usually start leaking at the crimp point. It starts slowly and progresses. At first you won't see any coolant underneath because it stays in the v of the engine block. But you'll smell that tell tale odor of leaking coolant.
You have four options at this point. 1. If you don't ever use the heater you may be able to cap off the water pump outlet and the heater for a cheap fix. 2. Sell the car and let the next guy worry about it. 3. Live with it for maybe another 6 months until it gets serious . 3. Fix it right away.
To fix it you'll have to remove the plenum and everything connected to it. Cut the metal tube at the crimp point as the crimp can't be reused. Put a new hose on with a new metal clamp at both ends. Replace the plenum, reconnect everything and hope a pray it doesn't happen again while you still own the car.
I've commented on the stupidity of this design before. I would never buy a car/truck with this setup again. Most owners don't know about this expensive problem just waiting to happen. It's not a matter of if... but when. Rubber wears out and leaks. Why you have to go thru all this nonsense is beyond me.
if someone with knowledge of these cars could help me out. The car runs very good when it has been wormed up but when you first start it it runs very rough. I know that a lot is computer controlled but is there any main unit or module that would control motor performance when it's still cold?...also the climate control unit keeps going from floor and defrost to the vents when all I want is for it to blow from the vents. I have traced all vacuum lines and have found no leaks what so ever. Also the actuator for that door flap
is obviously working so could this be the head unit itself?
itself?
I don't know how that would effect the randomness of the controls...There is no service lite on and I personally changed the spark plugs and the wires appear to have been replaced not long ago with oem parts. I don't know if it would cause this but the motor does appear to burn a little oil from what I think is a few valve seals...only smokes blue a little
after you sit for a while and then accelerate which at this point it goes away. Could this be why it runs so bad cold but runs very good when worm?
On several forums I have placed this problem but have no solution yet,
maybe you can help,
greetings from Amsterdam,
Peter
thanks again,
greetings from Amsterdam,
Peter
thanks again for your help,
best regards,
Peter
You did not find a bad coil? I'm a bit surprised. There is something about this engine's computer that really gets confused when the spark plugs and/or coils mess up. I tried to talk to the dealer's service manager about this and he denied that there was such a problem that he was aware of. In spite of that, he did finally suggest I change all spark plugs and coils "just in case" after I pressed him with the information I'd gathered about other vehicles I knew of with the same symptoms. I changed all plugs and the one coil that looked bad and seemed to come up the most often on the check engine analizer code and fixed the problem. Strange that I know of many others with this same exact symptoms and problems but the dealer says he's "...never heard of it." :confuse: Why don't they just admit they have a problem and tell us what to do? Is Lincoln/Ford afraid to admit that this problem is common? Why? :confuse:
Both engines started to periodically not crank or idle around 65K. The engine will run but will not idle. Drive it for a couple of minutes. It will crank and idle fine from then on.