Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My neighbor has a 99 ram pickup and he states that his truck will drive fine then starts buckin like crazy and the tranny acts funky too then shuts off and the digital odometer then shows "no bus" and the truck wont start for a while, but its intermittent and runs great when this dont happen, i was seeing if anyone knows of this and wut it is cus it seems like one of a common problems chrysler has anyway lol. Any info would be great, you can email me at tsiconquest88@hotmail.com if you choose.
The headlight on the passenger side works, but not the drivers side. The high beam on the driver side works but not the passenger side. Both fog lights work. All passenger side tail lights work, but none of the driver side tail lights. All reverse lights work.
I have done the obvious, change bulbs, checked fuses (why is there no fuse for headlights anyone?), and cleaned all grounds.
Any suggestions???
I bought my '03 cummins laramie about 2 weeks ago, with about 123,000k on it. The airbag light was on when I got it, but since I had extended warranty, I figured that the dealer would take care of it.
After taking the interior completely out of the truck, and tracing wiring for 5 hours, they came back to me with a damaged side airbag module, and a damaged side airbag. The module apparently is covered by warranty, but the airbag itself is not, to the tune of $1700.00!
My question is this... Is it normal for a airbag that is less than 5 years old, to suddenly be damaged (I know the previous owner, and it has been on for about 5 months), and if so, what could damage it? Could that fact that the truck has a remote start/alarm be the problem? (It was installed in 2005).
If anyone has had similar problems, or found a solution to this, I would be grateful.
thanks
technician
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
THANK YOU
i have a 2005 dodge ram 1500 laramie
Thanks in advance - Waterdoctor :confuse:
Checked all Fuses assocated with each item in the engine comp fuse box (dont see interior box)
Any ideas or help would be greatly appricated.
There are always two versions of the CTM used on every Chrysler product, depending on vehicle options. The CTM is used to integrate communications between the vehicle communications bus circuit and various electrical devices. The circuits or devices the CTM controls are as follows:
*Automatic Door Locks
*Battery Protection (Battery Temperature Sensing circuitry)
*Central Locking Control (Door switches or remote control)
*Chimes (all)
*Door Lock Inhibit (if selected)
*Enhanced Accident Response (Auto Shut Down)
* Exterior Lighting (Cargo lamp, Fog lamps,Headlamps,High Beam switch,Parking lamps)
* Interior Lighting (Courtesy lamps, Door Ajar indicator, Washer motor control, Windshield Wiper Motor, Headlamps Off Sensing Circuit, Key-in Ignition Sense,Parking Brake indicator, PCI Buss Circuit, Radio Controls, Glove Box lamp, Horn, plus some instrument panel illumination, such as RPM indication (Tach) and engine/vehicle status illumination.)
Regards,
Dusty
Also, these circuits are control by solid state operational amplifiers (Op Amp) which is designed to isolate the control circuits from the actual output circuitry. This prevents the overheating or damage to wiring harnesses in cases of a short. In some cases a short will not open a fuse. This is because the Op Amp detects a short on a circuit and shuts off current to that circuit so that no current can flow. Thus, the fuse does not open.
Since this is a 2004 there could also be a problem with the Power Distribution Center (PDC) itself. Unfortunately I've seen two of these fail in recent times, both 2004s. The PDC is the large black module under the hood that houses the relays and fuses.
Best regards,
Dusty
does anyone have any idea what this might be?
Waynek5
Removing the fuse will allow temporary operation, but there are a number of things that will eventually go wrong. One of them is the automatic transmission will go into the Limp In mode (you will also get random chimes and a loss of radio clock and memory presets). You need to have the fuse installed
Because of the age I suspect that what you really have is a defective battery.
Regards,
Dusty
Could it possibly be a computer issue? Glove box ,door and dome lights check out OK.
Thanks Wayne K :confuse:
Dusty
Thanks for your help WK
I'm not having a discharging problem.
The reason why I asked why you suspected the radio...and especially...the power mirrors was to determine something common.
I'm guessing for the moment, but with the PCM, TCM, ABS, Radio/clock, TCCM, and CTM modules requiring memory keep alive current, I suspect that the normal current draw could be upwards of one ampere through the IOD fuse. A steady one ampere draw without the charging system being operated would likely bring a healthy battery down to less than 10.0 volts in about 35 days in warm temperatures.
But I suspect that the normal current draw is much less than one ampere. Most modern keep alive circuits generally only need a few milliamperes (+/- 15 ma). But, I cannot remember the normal current draw. One-half ampere would be a lot, I'm thinking.
Anyway, if you remove the IOD fuse you can measure the current draw by inserting a meter across the fuse pins. Since the fuse is 15 ampere, anything drawing a lot of current, but less than 10 amps, won't open the fuse. So something drawing 10-15 amps, for example, wouldn't open the IOD fuse but still pull your battery down in a few days.
Best regards,
Dusty
Dusty
However, before starting that process I'd begin by removing all of the rear tail lamps and disconnecting the trailer wiring harness, if you have one. Its possible you have a shorted bulb or more likely, a shorted bulb socket.
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty